You make me laugh more than once on this build thread. Thanks for sharing Kekani, and extra kudos for spicing it up with humorkekani wrote:Honestly, each time I see someone starting an OT12 build I always thought to myself "Why not just do a pair of DR's and be done with it?"
Consider me humbled.
How to NOT build DR200's with Compression Drivers
Re: How to NOT build DR200's with Compression Drivers
- Chris_Allen
- Posts: 3358
- Joined: Wed Jul 11, 2007 2:43 pm
- Location: Huddersfield, UK
Re: How to NOT build DR200's with Compression Drivers
It does look noticeably skinnier with the 3/8".
I think the title is misleading! Doesn't look much wrong for a first DR200 build. My first pair were quite bad in comparison with the 2nd and 3rd pair!
With the thinner ply, I would consider some small blocks in the upper corners of the horn to add a little strength.
I think the title is misleading! Doesn't look much wrong for a first DR200 build. My first pair were quite bad in comparison with the 2nd and 3rd pair!
With the thinner ply, I would consider some small blocks in the upper corners of the horn to add a little strength.
Built:
6xDR200, 2xT39, 2xT48, 2xJack110, 1xOmni10.5, 1xAutotuba, 1xT18, 1xSLA Pro, 1xW8, 1xW10
6xDR200, 2xT39, 2xT48, 2xJack110, 1xOmni10.5, 1xAutotuba, 1xT18, 1xSLA Pro, 1xW8, 1xW10
Re: How to NOT build DR200's with Compression Drivers
I have to agree with Chris, it looks like a damn fine build to me 
Built
2 x DR250 (Kappalite 3010MB, ASD1001S)
2 X T39 24" (Kappalite 3012LF)
2 x DR250 (Kappalite 3010MB, ASD1001S)
2 X T39 24" (Kappalite 3012LF)
Re: How to NOT build DR200's with Compression Drivers
Then you and I must have a similar sense of humor. Glad for that.AntonZ wrote:You make me laugh more than once on this build thread. Thanks for sharing Kekani, and extra kudos for spicing it up with humorkekani wrote:Honestly, each time I see someone starting an OT12 build I always thought to myself "Why not just do a pair of DR's and be done with it?"
Consider me humbled.![]()
Seriously, when I did my first build(s) and shared the thread, I did so with the intent of paying it forward for the other threads that have helped me so much. I think therein lies the value of this forum. However, I think most of us may be a little hesitant to show the faults; there are brave exceptions of course.
I guess I'm at the point that I didn't give a rip, because if I'm struggling, someone else out there is as well, just may not be saying it. And that's okay.
I struggled on this one, mostly because of increasing the difficulty on my own accord, so its my fault, really. I don't know if its a good or bad thing that I waited to do these.
Good in that I knew what to expect in the plans.
Bad in that I thought I knew what to expect in the plans.
Either way, yes Grant, resistance was futile. . .
I titled it this because I didn't want to mislead anyone into thinking this is the way a DR was designed to be done by the plans. You have no idea how many times I was thinking, "If this were 1/2", I'd be done." Especially when it came to using pocket holes, or not using them because I didn't use 1/2".Chris_Allen wrote:It does look noticeably skinnier with the 3/8".
I think the title is misleading! Doesn't look much wrong for a first DR200 build. My first pair were quite bad in comparison with the 2nd and 3rd pair!
With the thinner ply, I would consider some small blocks in the upper corners of the horn to add a little strength.
I was just a little overconfident in thinking I could make 3/8" work, especially with a statement that I've read, "I'd feel confident building the cabs out of 3/8" ply, but it would take too much conversion on the dimensions."
I'm pretty good at math. But not that good. Damn all those angles
I've built lites out of 1/4" (with serious bracing of course), and the 3/8" that looks noticeably skinnier to 1/2" is very solid. Especially when the CD module is in place. Confidence in tight PL butt joints, with a solid baffle and proper bracing pulls it all together.
Look who's talking about a damn fine build. Your fix on the CD module? Like a boss!SimonD wrote:I have to agree with Chris, it looks like a damn fine build to me
I just realized, it must be something different that makes you guys down south build some nice stuff. Maybe its the toilet draining in the wrong direction
You know, at this point, it seems almost done, and then I go and pull out the filter parts. Even though I've done them a few times now, my brain still feels like
Anyone ever seen a filter done on a "U" shaped board just so it fits? Coming up soon.
Wedgehorn 6 (x2)
Jack 110 Lites (x2)
XF212 (Egnater style)
DR200 ASD (Yes! Finally!)
Jack 110 Lites (x2)
XF212 (Egnater style)
DR200 ASD (Yes! Finally!)
Re: How to NOT build DR200's with Compression Drivers
Bring it onkekani wrote:Anyone ever seen a filter done on a "U" shaped board just so it fits? Coming up soon.
Re: How to NOT build DR200's with Compression Drivers
By request from Anton -
If anyone hasn't figured it out yet, the reason I put it on a single board is because I'm too lazy to drill two separate boards on.
This time though, that thought process doesn't make sense.
I'm wracking my brains figuring out the wiring on a single board. Mind you, I've already done this, more than a couple of times. As usual, the second board was easier than the first.
I had to trim a little of the "lower left" side to so the spades could clear the cleat; bandsaw made easy work of that.
The line that goes around is where the top hat blocks are. I made sure to drill outside of that for the wiring to run underneath, as well as room to put the tiewraps. Yup, it'll sit on, and be drilled into the top hat blocks.
And yes, the "bottom corners" don't have blocks, so the holes and mounting on the "bottom right" is all good.
Okay, laziness wasn't the only reason I did it like this. The board itself is very solid being one piece like this.

Sitting in its soon to be home.
Damn it looks like I should be done, but I still need to mount the drivers, wire the drivers, wire the speakons, and mount the CD modules. Top hat is in, only because I needed to fit the filter board.
For everyone here that's been through a DR build, this is very irritating right now. I didn't feel like this on any other build. This one?

If anyone hasn't figured it out yet, the reason I put it on a single board is because I'm too lazy to drill two separate boards on.
This time though, that thought process doesn't make sense.
I'm wracking my brains figuring out the wiring on a single board. Mind you, I've already done this, more than a couple of times. As usual, the second board was easier than the first.
I had to trim a little of the "lower left" side to so the spades could clear the cleat; bandsaw made easy work of that.
The line that goes around is where the top hat blocks are. I made sure to drill outside of that for the wiring to run underneath, as well as room to put the tiewraps. Yup, it'll sit on, and be drilled into the top hat blocks.
And yes, the "bottom corners" don't have blocks, so the holes and mounting on the "bottom right" is all good.
Okay, laziness wasn't the only reason I did it like this. The board itself is very solid being one piece like this.

Sitting in its soon to be home.
Damn it looks like I should be done, but I still need to mount the drivers, wire the drivers, wire the speakons, and mount the CD modules. Top hat is in, only because I needed to fit the filter board.
For everyone here that's been through a DR build, this is very irritating right now. I didn't feel like this on any other build. This one?

Wedgehorn 6 (x2)
Jack 110 Lites (x2)
XF212 (Egnater style)
DR200 ASD (Yes! Finally!)
Jack 110 Lites (x2)
XF212 (Egnater style)
DR200 ASD (Yes! Finally!)
Re: How to NOT build DR200's with Compression Drivers
Final leg.
Finished wiring up the Speakon Jacks in the back, attached the plate (no pics - you've seen this before), attached and mounted the filter board, and drivers are in place.
Need to wire the CD's, then look for my Allen head cap screws.
See anything missing before I mount the module?

Done with the first cab?

Just as the last cap screw is tightened, I realized that I didn't seal the module.
Didn't make the same mistake twice.
Just for information, I have a 1/4" port, and a 4" port (which I ran the "inside" 3 inches or so across the belt sander to ease installation - its a little tight, but not impossible).

I brought these inside the house right away and hooked up the speakon cables.
crickets. . . . . .
Yup, that's it. I'm so "cabbed out" right now, I can't even run a sound through them. No desire. Nothing.
What the hell is wrong with me?!!??
Oh, and I'm glad I went with 3/8" - these things are heavy with the Delta and CD's. Of course, I'm a Jack 12 Lite for reference kind of guy.
Hindsight is 20/20 - I wouldn't have said that after the first few cuts. . .
Finished wiring up the Speakon Jacks in the back, attached the plate (no pics - you've seen this before), attached and mounted the filter board, and drivers are in place.
Need to wire the CD's, then look for my Allen head cap screws.
See anything missing before I mount the module?

Done with the first cab?

Just as the last cap screw is tightened, I realized that I didn't seal the module.
Didn't make the same mistake twice.
Just for information, I have a 1/4" port, and a 4" port (which I ran the "inside" 3 inches or so across the belt sander to ease installation - its a little tight, but not impossible).

I brought these inside the house right away and hooked up the speakon cables.
crickets. . . . . .
Yup, that's it. I'm so "cabbed out" right now, I can't even run a sound through them. No desire. Nothing.
What the hell is wrong with me?!!??
Oh, and I'm glad I went with 3/8" - these things are heavy with the Delta and CD's. Of course, I'm a Jack 12 Lite for reference kind of guy.
Hindsight is 20/20 - I wouldn't have said that after the first few cuts. . .
Wedgehorn 6 (x2)
Jack 110 Lites (x2)
XF212 (Egnater style)
DR200 ASD (Yes! Finally!)
Jack 110 Lites (x2)
XF212 (Egnater style)
DR200 ASD (Yes! Finally!)
Re: How to NOT build DR200's with Compression Drivers
Weirdokekani wrote:Yup, that's it. I'm so "cabbed out" right now, I can't even run a sound through them. No desire. Nothing.
What the hell is wrong with me?!!??
Nice build btw, but for god sake man, fire them up!
Re: How to NOT build DR200's with Compression Drivers
Okay, okay, did the deed. Flat eq'd and ran my ipod.
First off, these take "less" eq than a Jack 10 or 12 with the melded. For now. I just cranked them up in the house for fun, which I'm comparing by memory to the Jacks. Can't say much about volume yet, because the Jack's seem louder. I didn't run subs, and stuck the 4" port in, so I lost mid bass (I think thats what it was).
Sound is very clear. I ran music similar to what we play, and since I run my own bass NOT in the PA, this is exactly what I need. Very articulate on the vocals, and not as mid strong as the Jacks. Me likey.
Threw some Rush on, and had it highpassed at 100. Although the bass was surely missing, nothing else was. Me likey.
Haven't weighed it yet, but definitely more than 35# in my best guess. The drivers contribute a lot to this. That's okay. While the finish is not perfect, the look is very aggressive, for lack of a better term, in a good way. Can't wait to gig it.
Edit: Jumped on the scale with the cab in hand, so take it for that much accuracy - 41-42#. I'm thinking a DR250 melded should come in lighter with Deltalites and a melded array, if I were to do the same thing again.
Got a pair of Jack 110 lites that are now going to sit on the side and collect dust. . .
First off, these take "less" eq than a Jack 10 or 12 with the melded. For now. I just cranked them up in the house for fun, which I'm comparing by memory to the Jacks. Can't say much about volume yet, because the Jack's seem louder. I didn't run subs, and stuck the 4" port in, so I lost mid bass (I think thats what it was).
Sound is very clear. I ran music similar to what we play, and since I run my own bass NOT in the PA, this is exactly what I need. Very articulate on the vocals, and not as mid strong as the Jacks. Me likey.
Threw some Rush on, and had it highpassed at 100. Although the bass was surely missing, nothing else was. Me likey.
Haven't weighed it yet, but definitely more than 35# in my best guess. The drivers contribute a lot to this. That's okay. While the finish is not perfect, the look is very aggressive, for lack of a better term, in a good way. Can't wait to gig it.
Edit: Jumped on the scale with the cab in hand, so take it for that much accuracy - 41-42#. I'm thinking a DR250 melded should come in lighter with Deltalites and a melded array, if I were to do the same thing again.
Got a pair of Jack 110 lites that are now going to sit on the side and collect dust. . .
Wedgehorn 6 (x2)
Jack 110 Lites (x2)
XF212 (Egnater style)
DR200 ASD (Yes! Finally!)
Jack 110 Lites (x2)
XF212 (Egnater style)
DR200 ASD (Yes! Finally!)
Re: How to NOT build DR200's with Compression Drivers
Awesome build kekani! Sure does bring back memories and excites me for my next build! Its def a gratifying experience to complete a DR..
My build thread.. 11 T60's and 10 DR280's http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewt ... 30&t=19854
My Review! http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewt ... 13&t=20567
My Review! http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewt ... 13&t=20567
Re: How to NOT build DR200's with Compression Drivers
My DR250s, melded and loaded with S2010 drivers, are 44 lbs.Edit: Jumped on the scale with the cab in hand, so take it for that much accuracy - 41-42#. I'm thinking a DR250 melded should come in lighter with Deltalites and a melded array
Thanks for the build thread, it was a good ride.
TomS
