Links to everything you need for your BFD-build, in Europe.
Re: Links to everything you need for your BFD-build, in Euro
Cool.
2 x 3012 HO Jack 12 Lites
2 x Delta Pro 8b Wedgehorn 8 Monitors
Subs? Big question mark!
2 x Delta Pro 8b Wedgehorn 8 Monitors
Subs? Big question mark!
Re: Links to everything you need for your BFD-build, in Euro
+100 - the very first driver I got from this bloke was broke. He got it picked up (FOC without any hassle) and a new one shipped out... he couldn't have been more helpful. I have since got 3 more off of him. The ONLY issue is that the Labs have a stamp on them saying something like "for use in cabinets only - guarantee to be provided by cabinet maker (not Eminence)". TBH this originally worried me, until I realized that if you destroyed a driver in a BFM cab (if so - where was your limiting!! ), the damage wouldn't be covered by the warranty anyway. If there were any other issues with the driver (like my first one), then I would be pretty confident that Baz (colussusxb) would replace it anyhow (as he did with mine), so the lack of guarantee is a bit of a moot point.88h88 wrote:If you're after Lab 12s buy them from this dude on ebay. I've dealt with him before and he's cheaper than everyone else and the service is solid. £105 per Lab, £10 delivery.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eminence-LAB- ... 19e6e79f85
His seller name is colosussxb
Re: Links to everything you need for your BFD-build, in Euro
Pulled the trigger on one of these last night (it was the 1st thing I did once I saw my pay was in my account!). The order looks like it hasn't moved in almost 24 hours. Looking at the shop on Google maps though, it looks pretty close to a one man operation! How long did yours take to arrive please Bas?Bas Gooiker wrote:I found a killer deal on the Behringer DCX that i thought i'd share. Now new only €150 !!
Didn't trust it at first, but eventually ordered it after checking that it was a legit shop that was selling it. I received it today and indeed its a brand new and working unit. Seems to be old stock they are clearing out, mine has a production date from 2008. But with that price and Behringers 3 year warranty i'm a happy man!
They still have stock. BEHRINGER DCX
Re: Links to everything you need for your BFD-build, in Euro
That shop is not one that popped up yesterday, it has been around since the stone age. I think your DCX will arrive just fine.
Re: Links to everything you need for your BFD-build, in Euro
Mine already has! . Thanks Bas for tipping us off .
Cheers,
Thijs
Cheers,
Thijs
BF cabs built to date:
2x T48 21" 3015LF; 1x T48 24" 2xBP102; 1x DR250 2510 loaded, cross firing; 4x DR200 Beta 8, melded array; 1x TT HL-10c; 2x WH Beta 8, melded 'array'; 3x AT 15" Tang Band W8-740P; 1x AT 15" JBL GTO1014
2x T48 21" 3015LF; 1x T48 24" 2xBP102; 1x DR250 2510 loaded, cross firing; 4x DR200 Beta 8, melded array; 1x TT HL-10c; 2x WH Beta 8, melded 'array'; 3x AT 15" Tang Band W8-740P; 1x AT 15" JBL GTO1014
Re: Links to everything you need for your BFD-build, in Euro
I'm not worried whether it will arrive... I just want to know WHEN it'll arrive!! I want to play!AntonZ wrote:That shop is not one that popped up yesterday, it has been around since the stone age. I think your DCX will arrive just fine.
Re: Links to everything you need for your BFD-build, in Euro
Looks like I bought the last one of those DCXs. I'm still waiting for it to arrive though... I ordered on Thursday night (31st Jan), but the unit was in one of their shops and I had to wait for the following Thursday for them to get it moved to their shipping department and sent out. I can now track the package, but it's now looking like Monday before I will receive it... that's 10 days after ordering and it has stopped me doing a free party tonight!!
Still.. for the price, can't really complain!
Still.. for the price, can't really complain!
Re: Links to everything you need for your BFD-build, in Euro
My DCX finally arrived from Dirk Witte yesterday Mine had a date code on it of 0704, which makes my DCX 10 years old, yet brand new! Obviously with that date on it, it is only running v1.16 of the firmware (not v1.17) and I therefore cannot upgrade mine to v1.17.
I have a couple of quick questions though to anyone who has one of these units:
TIA
I have a couple of quick questions though to anyone who has one of these units:
- 1: When editing variables (crossover points etc), I turn the dial and it moves the parameter up/down, but it then suddenly jumps a few steps (e.g. 33Hz, 34, 35 and then 39). If I turn the dial back the other way, I can get to the numbers that were 'jumped', but is this normal on this unit please or have I got a dodgy dial?
2: I am using AES out of my DEQ into the DCX, but the levels on the DCX seem to be lower (3-6dB) than the DEQ... is this normal? NOTE: The AES/Aux out is set to mirror the input providing me with a 'clean' unaltered signal for the DCX to use. The main outs of the DEQ are then being sent to my amp to provide me with the ability to EQ my Otops.
TIA
-
- Posts: 6915
- Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:12 am
- Location: Ilfracombe Queensland Australia
- Contact:
Re: Links to everything you need for your BFD-build, in Euro
I have 2 x DCX's with later date codes and neither of them jump when scrolling. Never.escapemcp wrote:My DCX finally arrived from Dirk Witte yesterday Mine had a date code on it of 0704, which makes my DCX 10 years old, yet brand new! Obviously with that date on it, it is only running v1.16 of the firmware (not v1.17) and I therefore cannot upgrade mine to v1.17.
I have a couple of quick questions though to anyone who has one of these units:
And why cannot manufacturers make 19" rack mount equipment that actually fits in a 19" rack I got a 12 D-size patch panel, and it's about 1/16" too wide Same thing happened before on another panel with D-size cutouts NOT being D-size.... haven't these guys heard of QC... or a ruler??
- 1: When editing variables (crossover points etc), I turn the dial and it moves the parameter up/down, but it then suddenly jumps a few steps (e.g. 33Hz, 34, 35 and then 39). If I turn the dial back the other way, I can get to the numbers that were 'jumped', but is this normal on this unit please or have I got a dodgy dial?
2: I am using AES out of my DEQ into the DCX, but the levels on the DCX seem to be lower (3-6dB) than the DEQ... is this normal? NOTE: The AES/Aux out is set to mirror the input providing me with a 'clean' unaltered signal for the DCX to use. The main outs of the DEQ are then being sent to my amp to provide me with the ability to EQ my Otops.
TIA
As far as point 2 in your post, that's AFU of you have typed it correctly.
Should be: mixer to DEQ, DEQ to DCX via AES, then DCX outs to amp.
Here's the reasons why:
EQing affects phase. EQ should be before the crossover/DCX, as the DCX allows you to alter phase (if required) when sweeping through the crossover point to check phase.
The EQ you apply to the DEQ will be reflected in the sub and mid/high outputs of the DCX.
The benefit of using AES from DEQ to DCX is simply one of removing some (actually 2 all up out of four) analogue to digital then digital back to analogue conversion steps in each unit.
Now you have the DCX, you should be able to undo all those things you were previously doing with your DEQ and amp.
The DEQ should now only be for: EQ, RTA, and, if you want FBD.
The DCX should be for HP/LP/Crossover/limiter, and, if you want, adjustment of gain for level balancing between subs and tops, and perhaps delay to time align subs and mains.
All your amp settings should be reverted to no HP or LP or crossover or limiting.
If you don't do it this way, what exactly was the point in buying the DCX?
Hope this helps...
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
- Chris_Allen
- Posts: 3355
- Joined: Wed Jul 11, 2007 2:43 pm
- Location: Huddersfield, UK
Re: Links to everything you need for your BFD-build, in Euro
Not wanting to dilute the thread with a DCX/DEQ conversation, are you using a proper AES cable of the correct impedance?
I don't recall get a signal drop between devices but I definitely had the frequency step thing. Not sure what firmware version mine was.
I do recall you could get the updated firmware online as a chip that you replaced on your motherbaord.
(If I remember, I'll drop the last few comments into their own thread.)
I don't recall get a signal drop between devices but I definitely had the frequency step thing. Not sure what firmware version mine was.
I do recall you could get the updated firmware online as a chip that you replaced on your motherbaord.
(If I remember, I'll drop the last few comments into their own thread.)
Built:
6xDR200, 2xT39, 2xT48, 2xJack110, 1xOmni10.5, 1xAutotuba, 1xT18, 1xSLA Pro, 1xW8, 1xW10
6xDR200, 2xT39, 2xT48, 2xJack110, 1xOmni10.5, 1xAutotuba, 1xT18, 1xSLA Pro, 1xW8, 1xW10
Re: Links to everything you need for your BFD-build, in Euro
Wanna swap?Grant Bunter wrote:I have 2 x DCX's with later date codes and neither of them jump when scrolling. Never.
I know what you say is the 'proper' way to do it, but I have my reasons for going straight out of the DEQ to my tops... the main one being that I need a clean (un-EQ'd) stereo signal to run to my mp3 recorder, as well as a stereo 'link' out if ever I link up with other rigs (as I am planning to at Frenchtek this year ). I also require a mono monitor out that ideally would be a L+R sum... as this will initially just be a cheapo powered monitor, this must also not be EQ'd. Finally I require an output for my DJ Facade (I could get away with mono for that, and it wouldn't really matter if it was post-EQ either). The ultimate plan is that some day I will also get an extra sub amp (the iNukes don't have pass-though)=another signal terminus.Grant Bunter wrote:As far as point 2 in your post, that's AFU of you have typed it correctly.
Should be: mixer to DEQ, DEQ to DCX via AES, then DCX outs to amp.
Here's the reasons why:
EQing affects phase. EQ should be before the crossover/DCX, as the DCX allows you to alter phase (if required) when sweeping through the crossover point to check phase.
The EQ you apply to the DEQ will be reflected in the sub and mid/high outputs of the DCX.
As you can see, that's most of my 6 outputs used on the DCX!! I am passing through an unaltered signal on the DEQ from the input straight through to the AES - handily this gives me an extra output using the Aux on the DEQ. The OTop amp is connected to the main out of the DEQ which gets all the EQ processing.
With my setup this is still the case... my signal only runs through 1 full conversion - the OTops get ADC and DAC inside the DEQ, the Subs and everything else gets ADC in the DEQ and DAC in the DCX.Grant Bunter wrote:The benefit of using AES from DEQ to DCX is simply one of removing some (actually 2 all up out of four) analogue to digital then digital back to analogue conversion steps in each unit.
That's all it has ever been doing.Grant Bunter wrote:Now you have the DCX, you should be able to undo all those things you were previously doing with your DEQ and amp.
The DEQ should now only be for: EQ, RTA, and, if you want FBD.
My DCX is doing Crossover & mixing duties, whilst my limiters remain firmly in my amps. (I like it that way as I think you are aware )Grant Bunter wrote:The DCX should be for HP/LP/Crossover/limiter, and, if you want, adjustment of gain for level balancing between subs and tops, and perhaps delay to time align subs and mains.
Almost - except the last bitGrant Bunter wrote:All your amp settings should be reverted to no HP or LP or crossover or limiting.
Signal splitting/joining etc AND the flashy lights - those flashy lights on the DCX will impress the people that I need to impress if I am to start getting club gigs. Stupid I know, but please... don't hate the player, hate the game!!!Grant Bunter wrote:If you don't do it this way, what exactly was the point in buying the DCX?
I have spent many hours working out how to wire this up, and most of my attempts have ended up at a dead end. This is one of the very few that work, and it is by far the most elegant solution I have found.
Re: Links to everything you need for your BFD-build, in Euro
I think so... DMX cable is ok, isn't it?Chris_Allen wrote:Not wanting to dilute the thread with a DCX/DEQ conversation, are you using a proper AES cable of the correct impedance?
You mean the 'jump' in frequency??... if so then that's good. It's not a problem to use, I was just hoping it isn't indicative of another issue with the unit (specifically the dial)... 10 years is a long time to be sat on a shelf gathering dust and oxygen (=oxidization!)Chris_Allen wrote:I don't recall get a signal drop between devices but I definitely had the frequency step thing.
Do you know what the differences are between versions (i.e. any feature improvements, or is it just bugfixes, like the jumpy frequency thing?)Chris_Allen wrote:I do recall you could get the updated firmware online as a chip that you replaced on your motherbaord.
Last edited by escapemcp on Tue Feb 11, 2014 3:01 pm, edited 5 times in total.
Re: Links to everything you need for your BFD-build, in Euro
Will the fact that the subs be un-EQ'd at the crossover point and the Otops WILL be EQ'd (thus introducing phase-shift) cause me issues I am yet unaware of?? I am thinking that I can alter the phase of the sub via the DCX, to bring it into line with the Otops (if reqd.)Grant Bunter wrote:EQing affects phase. EQ should be before the crossover/DCX, as the DCX allows you to alter phase (if required) when sweeping through the crossover point to check phase.
The EQ you apply to the DEQ will be reflected in the sub and mid/high outputs of the DCX.
-
- Posts: 6915
- Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:12 am
- Location: Ilfracombe Queensland Australia
- Contact:
Re: Links to everything you need for your BFD-build, in Euro
Access to more EQ, 15% more processor power.
Both of those are handy
Both of those are handy
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
Re: Links to everything you need for your BFD-build, in Euro
Spent the whole night squeezing everything into my rack... it's getting pretty tight in there now that my patch panels are on the rear of the case and fighting for space with a computer PSU and lighting controllers for my DJ Facade! I'd love to be able to neaten up the rack (I even bought cable routing clips), but there just isn't the room The 5 star Harley award eludes me again!
I purchased a 12 port D-side 1U panel, and firstly, it was too wide to fit in the rack, so I filed it down (luckily it was alu). Then the screw holes didn't line up, so I only used one screw per side. Then come test time (which should be the fun bit), the panel was too thick and I couldn't get my speakons to attach - I rear mount, so the extra depth of the panel meant that only the NL2FC (with the grey locking 'ring') would mate... the NL2FX and NL4's (with more of a 'key' type locking system) didn't stand a chance of getting deep enough to twist lock shut.
Oh well, at least I have something to do tomorrow... if I managed to finish everything, what would I then do
I purchased a 12 port D-side 1U panel, and firstly, it was too wide to fit in the rack, so I filed it down (luckily it was alu). Then the screw holes didn't line up, so I only used one screw per side. Then come test time (which should be the fun bit), the panel was too thick and I couldn't get my speakons to attach - I rear mount, so the extra depth of the panel meant that only the NL2FC (with the grey locking 'ring') would mate... the NL2FX and NL4's (with more of a 'key' type locking system) didn't stand a chance of getting deep enough to twist lock shut.
Oh well, at least I have something to do tomorrow... if I managed to finish everything, what would I then do