g'day from australia
g'day from australia
hey guys my names matthew
just got into building speakers with really no knowledge of the electronics side of it
im halfway through a 4 set of tuba 30s and realised i dont know the correct crossover
if anyone could suggest an appropriate crossover or even if its 2way of low pass, i am
using the eminence kappalite 3012lf's and would prefer cabinet ready crossover so
any suggestion would be greatly appreciated
will keep you updated on my progress
thankyou
matthew mcgarry
just got into building speakers with really no knowledge of the electronics side of it
im halfway through a 4 set of tuba 30s and realised i dont know the correct crossover
if anyone could suggest an appropriate crossover or even if its 2way of low pass, i am
using the eminence kappalite 3012lf's and would prefer cabinet ready crossover so
any suggestion would be greatly appreciated
will keep you updated on my progress
thankyou
matthew mcgarry
Re: g'day from australia
You need an electronic crossover like a Behringer DCX2496, a Driverack PA+ or similar. It needs to have a limiter built in so you can control how much juice your subs will take.
Hello by the way, how are you getting on with your build so far?
Hello by the way, how are you getting on with your build so far?
4xOT12s, 2xT39s@22", TTLS@18", 2xT60@18"
Re: g'day from australia
am just wondering if these crossovers:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowde ... 62&scqty=4
is this anything like i need
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowde ... 62&scqty=4
is this anything like i need
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Re: g'day from australia
M_mcgarry wrote:am just wondering if these crossovers:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowde ... 62&scqty=4
is this anything like i need
No. You need an active crossover like a dbx Driverack or a Behringer 2496.
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
Re: g'day from australia
the build itself isnt overly difficult just keeping myself from getting excited
and making mistakes
and making mistakes
Re: g'day from australia
so is it best to wire the subs xlr to xlr or xlr to 5.5mm jack
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- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
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Re: g'day from australia
M_mcgarry wrote:so is it best to wire the subs xlr to xlr or xlr to 5.5mm jack
Time to step back and be more specific. Not trying to be mean, but that statement honestly makes no sense. XLRs are not used as speaker connections....
Start over - what exactly are you trying to do? What equipment do you already have? Amps? What tops are you going to use?
Based on your questions, there is a lot of confusion here in where you are going.....
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
Re: g'day from australia
+1
You do need an active crossover like the DCX 2496. That will run to your sub amp and to a top amp. Each of those should run with a Speakon cable to your cabinets.
You do need an active crossover like the DCX 2496. That will run to your sub amp and to a top amp. Each of those should run with a Speakon cable to your cabinets.
Bruce Weldy wrote:M_mcgarry wrote:so is it best to wire the subs xlr to xlr or xlr to 5.5mm jack
Time to step back and be more specific. Not trying to be mean, but that statement honestly makes no sense. XLRs are not used as speaker connections....
Start over - what exactly are you trying to do? What equipment do you already have? Amps? What tops are you going to use?
Based on your questions, there is a lot of confusion here in where you are going.....
Donny Collins
Built:
Two 18" Tuba 30's 3012 LF
Two 26" Tuba 30's Lab 12
Two OmniTop 12's DL 2512 (Melded Array)
Presonus Studio One DAW
Harrison Consoles MixBus 32C DAW
Built:
Two 18" Tuba 30's 3012 LF
Two 26" Tuba 30's Lab 12
Two OmniTop 12's DL 2512 (Melded Array)
Presonus Studio One DAW
Harrison Consoles MixBus 32C DAW
Re: g'day from australia
Amazing! Another guy from Australia. I can't imagine there being more than 5 or 6 DJ rigs in the whole country and half or more are BFM!
2 THTs, 2 TLAH, SLA curved, 1 8-AT, 1 AT JBL 1002D, 4 Otop12s, Jack 12, TT with Eminence 10", 2 SLAs, 1 T30 slim, 2 T30s (2-10" each), SLA Pros, TrT.
Re: g'day from australia
Hi Matthew! ...and welcome to the forum!
The best way to do the crossover is with an active unit. The reasoning is that it also offers "brick-wall" limiting (so that you don't blow the drivers..because you can't hear them distort inside a horn cab), some Parametric EQ, hi-pass and lo-pass settings, cross-over settings and cross-over slope rates.
If you were have low-power settings, approximately 100 watts total, then an inductor would do. Since you are building four cabs, then this doesn't apply to you.
The best way to do the crossover is with an active unit. The reasoning is that it also offers "brick-wall" limiting (so that you don't blow the drivers..because you can't hear them distort inside a horn cab), some Parametric EQ, hi-pass and lo-pass settings, cross-over settings and cross-over slope rates.
If you were have low-power settings, approximately 100 watts total, then an inductor would do. Since you are building four cabs, then this doesn't apply to you.
TomS
Re: g'day from australia
Welcome Matthew
Plenty of aussies around here, and a few kiwi's as well. So you are not the only one building your cabs upside down.
Best to make them recessed. I tried to find a decent pic to illustrate, don't know if this one has enough detail to make out what it is. The black round thing is an NL4MPR, it goes into the circular recessed cutout. I glued a small piece of ply (slightly bigger on all sides than the black circular thingy) to reinforce the ply so it is strong enough after routing away some ply.
If you prefer a metal dish, by all means do that instead of what I show here. Works just as well, as long as it is air tight. Costs yet a few $ more.
Plenty of aussies around here, and a few kiwi's as well. So you are not the only one building your cabs upside down.
It is best to wire your subs (or any other pro sound cab, for that matter) with speakon connectors. Use Neutrik branded connectors. The cheap knock-offs often do not fit all that well, the few extra $ per cab for the real deal is absolutely worth it. NL4MPR can be mounted on the wood, no need for expensive dishes.M_mcgarry wrote:so is it best to wire the subs xlr to xlr or xlr to 5.5mm jack
Best to make them recessed. I tried to find a decent pic to illustrate, don't know if this one has enough detail to make out what it is. The black round thing is an NL4MPR, it goes into the circular recessed cutout. I glued a small piece of ply (slightly bigger on all sides than the black circular thingy) to reinforce the ply so it is strong enough after routing away some ply.
If you prefer a metal dish, by all means do that instead of what I show here. Works just as well, as long as it is air tight. Costs yet a few $ more.
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- Contact:
Re: g'day from australia
I can see what you're saying.Bruce Weldy wrote:M_mcgarry wrote:so is it best to wire the subs xlr to xlr or xlr to 5.5mm jack
Time to step back and be more specific. Not trying to be mean, but that statement honestly makes no sense. XLRs are not used as speaker connections....
Start over - what exactly are you trying to do? What equipment do you already have? Amps? What tops are you going to use?
Based on your questions, there is a lot of confusion here in where you are going.....
However, if Matthew is old school Aussie, every man and his dog used to use XLR's for cabs here, at least it was a better option than 1/4" plugs. (We used to wire the leads so that both ends were female (so you were never tempted to use them for mic leads) with pin 3 hot and 2 cold but tagged to pin 1 in case someone did it "different", but you always had to check if you used someone else's gear, even hire rigs.)
By the way Matthew, G'day and welcome to the forum
When I got here I was told to "suck it up that you'll need a DSP" by a Kiwi, so the message got through.
CC's Light and sound do a DCX for 429 on e-bay, but most people who get a DCX also get a DEQ, which has generally jumped over 500 here. I had one rush shipped to me 2 weeks ago from them for my A rig (the older one went to the B rig)
So the driverack has certainly become a better option here, buying locally. $479 from Soundcorp is the best price for the PA+ new on da bay again. I've bought gear from Soundcorp, Bishops, JD's and Cannon without any problems.
67Baja. The increasing numbers of Aussies here is proportional to the exhorbitant retail prices we have. Great performance for a lower price is very appealing.
Yeah there's only one DJ in every state's capital city and you have to book three years ahead.
I only play music through my system and don't live in a capital city, so I'm not a DJ.
Anyway, back to the topic at hand:
Use Neutrik NL4 speakon connectors. Change everything to that! Unbeatable
Put your location in the user control panel please, always nice to know where other Aussies are from.
And show us pics...
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
Re: g'day from australia
if i do uise the speakon connectors. are they compatable wth the connections on the dbx driverack or the 2496
Re: g'day from australia
do i need an input and ouput on the cabs. im confused as to which is the correct leads xlr or speakon
Re: g'day from australia
XLR cables are the interconnects between your electronics so from your mixer, into your EQ, into your crossover and then into the amps. Speakons are used from the amps into the speakers.
4xOT12s, 2xT39s@22", TTLS@18", 2xT60@18"