The journey begins.. 16 T60's and 12 DR280's!!

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miked
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Re: The journey begins.. 16 T60's and 12 DR280's!!

#226 Post by miked »

Concerning this "light spritz of water" technique. I've never used it, but experienced similar-looking PL cracks when I built my OTops. I just piled on more PL on top of if. No problems.

But, I'll be building some T48's very soon and it is about 100F and 60% humidity in my garage...I don't want T48-size-PL-cracks. How do I do this "spritz thing?" Just get a spray bottle filled with water and lightly wet the entire jointing surface before adding the PL? Do I spray just one workpiece or both workpieces?

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Tom Smit
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Re: The journey begins.. 16 T60's and 12 DR280's!!

#227 Post by Tom Smit »

miked wrote: Just get a spray bottle filled with water and lightly wet the entire jointing surface before adding the PL?
miked wrote:Yes
Do I spray just one workpiece or both workpieces?
Both
TomS

Bob G
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Re: The journey begins.. 16 T60's and 12 DR280's!!

#228 Post by Bob G »

No offense to you other fine builders out there, but this is the damn sexiest woodworking I've seen on here.

Holy crap! Imma have to rub one out now...

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Rick Lee
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Re: The journey begins.. 16 T60's and 12 DR280's!!

#229 Post by Rick Lee »

Keep in mind the actual joint is probably fine. The excess outside the joint is what's cracking because it's so hot and humid. Since the joint is tight the dry time probably didn't exceed the expansion rate. It's only when it's hot and dry that you should spritz the surface to ensure good adhesion.

Now, spritzing the surface should keep the excess from cracking because the cure rate will be better balanced. I don't worry about the excess too often. In the DRs there's so much pressure at that joint that it's highly unlikely to fail anyway. Not trying to be a smart*** but I'd be moving on to the next step.
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hifibob
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Re: The journey begins.. 16 T60's and 12 DR280's!!

#230 Post by hifibob »

biggerrigger wrote:Its the weather. I would leave it as it is and add a layer over top of what is there already. I had the same problem in the same place on 2 of my DR250's and the fix worked very well.

If you are using the back covers you can pile on as much PL as you want in this area as it will not be seen once the cover is in place. Just make sure that you are consistent from one cab to another on your application so it does not change the resonant frequency of the cab in that area.

As Harley had stated a light sprits of water from a spay bottle will help keep that from happening on future joints in this kind of weather.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks biggerigger, Ya I'm definitely putting back covers on so I'm not overly concerned how ugly it is. It still is bonding though. I tried ripping the excess I cut off apart and it was holding just fine. Harley was spot on I tried the water on the last one and it cured like normal.

hifibob
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Re: The journey begins.. 16 T60's and 12 DR280's!!

#231 Post by hifibob »

miked wrote:Concerning this "light spritz of water" technique. I've never used it, but experienced similar-looking PL cracks when I built my OTops. I just piled on more PL on top of if. No problems.

But, I'll be building some T48's very soon and it is about 100F and 60% humidity in my garage...I don't want T48-size-PL-cracks. How do I do this "spritz thing?" Just get a spray bottle filled with water and lightly wet the entire jointing surface before adding the PL? Do I spray just one workpiece or both workpieces?
Mike I just simply wet the area and wiped it down with a damp rag, the wood was actually darker cus it absorbed the water. Worked like a charm!
No offense to you other fine builders out there, but this is the damn sexiest woodworking I've seen on here.

Holy crap! Imma have to rub one out now...
Lol thanks Bob I appreciate it, but there are some pretty good woodworkers on here..
Keep in mind the actual joint is probably fine. The excess outside the joint is what's cracking because it's so hot and humid. Since the joint is tight the dry time probably didn't exceed the expansion rate. It's only when it's hot and dry that you should spritz the surface to ensure good adhesion.

Now, spritzing the surface should keep the excess from cracking because the cure rate will be better balanced. I don't worry about the excess too often. In the DRs there's so much pressure at that joint that it's highly unlikely to fail anyway. Not trying to be a smart*** but I'd be moving on to the next step.
Ya your a 100% right Rick.. Its still doing its job..

hifibob
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Re: The journey begins.. 16 T60's and 12 DR280's!!

#232 Post by hifibob »

Today was a good day I got a bunch done.. Got all the sides dado's done and installed..
Image

Trimmed everything up and decided to curve the face in instead of out.. For some reason Im wishing I did it the other way but its too late now :(
Image

Image

Had to hit the brakes at 3.. back at it tomorrow!
Image

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Ian Westwood
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Re: The journey begins.. 16 T60's and 12 DR280's!!

#233 Post by Ian Westwood »

hifibob wrote:Image]
Cant figure out what I'm looking at here!! :ugeek:
Image

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Scott Brochu
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Re: The journey begins.. 16 T60's and 12 DR280's!!

#234 Post by Scott Brochu »

Ian Westwood wrote: Cant figure out what I'm looking at here!! :ugeek:
It's the dado you need when the butt cheeks meet the side.
Or are you talking about the table saw insert for the dado blade?
Drumming is a way of life.
ME LIKE TO HIT THINGS!
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Ian Westwood
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Re: The journey begins.. 16 T60's and 12 DR280's!!

#235 Post by Ian Westwood »

Scott Brochu wrote:It's the dado you need when the butt cheeks meet the side.
Or are you talking about the table saw insert for the dado blade?
Ahhhhhh. Right. I see it now.

Hey Bob, any chance I could see a more detailed picture of that dado blade set up when you can please?
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Rick Lee
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Re: The journey begins.. 16 T60's and 12 DR280's!!

#236 Post by Rick Lee »

hifibob wrote:For some reason Im wishing I did it the other way but its too late now :(
Yeah- not bad but ...it looked better in my head than it does in the picture. Sorry to have influenced that way...
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hifibob
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Re: The journey begins.. 16 T60's and 12 DR280's!!

#237 Post by hifibob »

Ian Westwood wrote:
Scott Brochu wrote:It's the dado you need when the butt cheeks meet the side.
Or are you talking about the table saw insert for the dado blade?
Ahhhhhh. Right. I see it now.

Hey Bob, any chance I could see a more detailed picture of that dado blade set up when you can please?
Sure I have another one I can snap some pics of, but basically its a bunch of spacers and saw blades you can stack together to get a desired thickness. I use it so much that I leave it installed on its own saw since its a pain in the butt to take it on and off.

hifibob
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Re: The journey begins.. 16 T60's and 12 DR280's!!

#238 Post by hifibob »

Rick Lee wrote:
hifibob wrote:For some reason Im wishing I did it the other way but its too late now :(
Yeah- not bad but ...it looked better in my head than it does in the picture. Sorry to have influenced that way...
lol not your fault.. I'm going to try and work with it, I'm going to bend a steel grill to cover the tweeters maybe that will do the trick.. All else fails I could arch it the other way or cut it straight per the plans..

sine143
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Re: The journey begins.. 16 T60's and 12 DR280's!!

#239 Post by sine143 »

could always glue the piece you cut out back in lol.
Built:
2x Tuba 30s delta12lf loaded (gone)
4x Otop12 d2512 loaded
8x t48s (18, 18, 24, 24, 30, 30) 3015lf loaded
2x AT (1 mcm, 1 gto 804)
2x SLA Pro (dayton pa6, 6 goldwood piezo loaded)
1x bastard XF208

2x OT212 (delta pro 450a loaded, eminence psd)

hifibob
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Re: The journey begins.. 16 T60's and 12 DR280's!!

#240 Post by hifibob »

sine143 wrote:could always glue the piece you cut out back in lol.
lol.. I could try and do one of them patch thingies Ian did.. you cant even tell!!

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