New Build - T30s and then Otops to follow

[88h88]

I have next Friday off and then no work for a week... Time to build shit now the temperature has crept above 2 during the day!

Looks to be going well there, keep up the good work!

Yeah, loving the build. Never knew woodwork could be so much fun. I think if it wasn't a speaker, I wouldn't enjoy it half as much! A whole week off 88 ... nice - what you building?? I haven't had a day's holiday for 6 months, maybe I should grab a day or 2. Only issue is that as I work as an IT contractor... no work=no money=no neo speaker for my Otops!

This is holiday owed from last year, I had a week off a year ago aaaaand nothing until a couple of weeks back. A week next week and a couple more at the end of the month (cunningly after pay day for speaker bits). I've got a 90% finished T60 in the garage which needs a brother, just putting a brace in, popping the side on and finishing up. During time off though I've got an autotuba to make, a pair of Jack 12s aaaand an XF guitar cab. Busyyyyy.

I know what you mean about screws, its become habit for me now and seems easier for a build. I need a second drill though so I don't have to keep swapping bits/driver.

[escapemcp]

I know what you mean about screws, its become habit for me now and seems easier for a build. I need a second drill though so I don't have to keep swapping bits/driver.

Never thought of that. I have access to a 2nd drill, so may have to stick the countersink in one and the bit in the other.

Here's my work from yesterday:



I think that the Lab12 modification should be mentioned earlier in the plans. Although you should know the plans back to front (which I now do ), inserting the reducer panels would be nigh on impossible if you add them at the end of the build (which is where they are mentioned in the instructions). Luckily, I haven't glued panels 5 or 6 yet, as I have to remove the extra PL from the panel 4 join to panel 3, in order that I can get the reducer panel right next to panel 3. My reducer panel is VERY tight (only just slides into place), so I am a little worried how I will get PL on the join without it all coming off as I drop the reducer panel into place. Will probably screw it in place through panels 2, 3 AND 4, and PL the joins after install. Yes/no?

It really flew together yesterday. It is getting much easier now that I have got the hang of cutting panels to mm accuracy. All my angles are right too

EDIT: How come the horn gets bigger to the first bend, and then smaller again (have triple checked plans and also other people's build pics to ensure that this isn't a mistake on my part (or Bills ). I thought it would be an exponential increase for the size of the horn, but it doesn't seem to be. Can anyone (Bill? (sorry if I doubted you last sentence btw... me-> <-Bill )) enlighten me as to why this is so?

[88h88]

I think that the Lab12 modification should be mentioned earlier in the plans.

I agree but this is why "read the plans! understand the plans! be able to recite the plans in your sleep!" is bandied about. A couple of friends put our first T39 together and of course didn't read the plans so they were about 4/5 panels in before I reminded them we were using a Lab12 driver. Go through the plans, make notes where required and scribble out bits which don't apply.

[Tom Smit]

My reducer panel is VERY tight (only just slides into place), so I am a little worried how I will get PL on the join without it all coming off as I drop the reducer panel into place. Will probably screw it in place through panels 2, 3 AND 4, and PL the joins after install. Yes/no?

A possibillity is to run a bead of PL aroun d the perimeter of where the reducer is to sit, so that when the panel is installed it somewhat drags the PL along. Maybe put some temporary screws as supports, if you are "dropping" the panel into place. Then screw from the outside, after which you remove the support screws.

[Charles Jenkinson]

EDIT: How come the horn gets bigger to the first bend, and then smaller again (have triple checked plans and also other people's build pics to ensure that this isn't a mistake on my part (or Bills ). I thought it would be an exponential increase for the size of the horn, but it doesn't seem to be. Can anyone (Bill? (sorry if I doubted you last sentence btw... me-> <-Bill )) enlighten me as to why this is so?

I'm interested in the answer to this also, having noticed the same.

[escapemcp]

Last night's progress:

Installed 2nd Lab 12 reducer panel and panel 6. No braces as yet though, that comes tonight.



I have noticed that my glue AND screw method will not work on some braces, due to lack of access space to get a drill in there (especially as I have installed the right angle Lab 12 reducer panel, thinking I was clever by doing it earlier - this is why I feel that the Lab12 mod should be actually in the plans somewhere, and not tacked on the end and left to me to decide when to implement it ). Think I am going to use some of those plastic blocks that are used to put up shelves in order that I can give my braces something more than the veneer to grab to.

Oh, and I broke a drill bit after dropping the drill

Hurry up 5:30, I got a speaker to build!

[escapemcp]

Good night last night Managed to get 5/6 braces in and panel 7.

When attaching panel 7 I had to get a couple of tight screws to fit, I used a quick bit of WD40 to ease the screw into the hole. When I squirted it in though (which was when the PL was still wet), the WD40 squirted out of BOTH sides of my join (pic 3). Am very worried about this join (and all others) now... or does WD40 eat PL or something? Slapped loads of extra PL on the join, and will probably give it another layer tonight!!

At least my joins are reading 90

[lincsoldbird]

Good build but that ply is nasty, I would get birch next time. It may cost more but it very little in the great effort put in to building these cabs.
I would also look at DR,s for tops. I started with 4 T30,s and 2 DR280,the sound was awsome and you could run the lot of two aa batterys and fill a stadium!

[escapemcp]

Good build but that ply is nasty, I would get birch next time. It may cost more but it very little in the great effort put in to building these cabs.

Yeah, I searched for it and thought I had it - it was a busy shop and the bloke just wanted to get me out the way, so I didn't check it thoroughly I think I have found somewhere that sells the proper stuff Will use it on the next one, and this can be my test speaker!

Anyway, todays update:
Got a sample handle and speakon jack dish+speakons through today. I am planning to mod both the handle and the speakon dish to fit, as they won't quite squeeze in the 'unpressurised' sections at the top and bottom on the back of the cab. The Handles are having the back bit removed, and the 45degree bit of wood (reflector - I think) on the top back will create the 'dish' of the handle. After a few rough cuts, the handle looks something like this:

The cut is only rough at the moment, I am yet to do the 'neat' cut to the line I have drawn. The handle 'dish' is only plastic, so easy to cut.
The speakon dish has to be modified in a similar way. I did a test cut tonight to see if I could get the saw to bite on the angled surfaces, and got success (bottom right of dish) - the pencil line is the 'ish' cut line so that you can picture what I am up to.
.
Will do the angled cut when I know the exact size to cut it to. Again the bottom reflector will provide some of the 'dish' when it's installed (face down when speaker upright).
Do you think that the spades on the back of a speakon plug would take a bend? With the speakon dish having to be positioned very near to the back of the cab with the speakon plugs pointing to the back of the cab when plugged into the socket, I need to pinch every inch that I can to squeeze it all in. Bending the speakon spades (the ones attached to the speakon socket, NOT the faston connectors) would solve this space issue. I suppose only way to find out is to try trashing the plug in the pic. I think the screw connectors will be too long, but I got both to test

I still hadn't worked out how to test for leaks, but is weatherproof seal-ing all edges and then screwing the side on going to work? At the moment, I think this is the best way i can work out... I dunno how the rubber tube system that Bill mentions is supposed to work - How do you get it round to panel 5?
Also I have decided on the bottom back edge after about a week of pondering. I didn't want a straight edge, cause it would get easily dinked, so was looking at a wheel/castor with a 30mm radius bend to go from upright to level (does that make sense). This 30mm rounding would have caused untold problems squeezing the speakon dish in. Today I sussed the solution. A straight edge (no rounding off) BUT with 4 wheels. That way, the wheels *should* take the dinks and not the fragile back edge. This way allows me maximum space to fit in the speakon dish underneath. Most other edges will have a 10mm rounding on them, to match the corners and the handle.
Phew... I think I now know what I am doing and how all these 'accessories' will fit in. It only took me a week of thinking (mostly in work time though! ), but I got there!

[escapemcp]

I would also look at DR,s for tops. I started with 4 T30,s and 2 DR280,the sound was awsome and you could run the lot of two aa batterys and fill a stadium!

Tempting... but this is only going to be my 'small' rig I think I am going to need 3 rigs in total (prob 1xT30, 1xTitan 48/39 & 1xT60 ) - if I build a DR280, then there is nowhere to 'move up' to - crowd won't be far enough away for 300's.

And as this will be both a freeparty & for hire rig, the size & weight of the OT12's Neo is so tempting. In the past I have lugged an F218 (100kg+) across fields and up stairs (at a club) and it isn't fun... the lighter the better for my first rig (he says, with Lab12's in the 24" T30's ). 2nd rig will be all about the T60s and extension (for main rooms) and the 3rd for volume. Small, loud and low... yeah?

[escapemcp]

I would also look at DR,s for tops. I started with 4 T30,s and 2 DR280,the sound was awsome and you could run the lot of two aa batterys and fill a stadium!

Been thinking long and hard about the DR option last night. It is tempting, because I originally opted to build the OT12's because of the ease of build, but the T30 has gone together so easily, I may be tempted by a 250 with the T30 rig. So I get the problem of where to put all my bits on the T30 solved, and a new one to suss now. OT12's or DR250's. Hmm...


EDIT: As I am planning to use one of the rigs (the biggest at the time) for free parties, can anyone give an estimate as to how many cabs I would need for 100 or so people? I am not talking about Bill's 'recommended' numbers on the bottom of each page per speaker, as free parties call for bloody loud! I assume that the figures quoted are for not quite such a high volume. As an example, at New Year, with about 300 people, they had something like 8 Labhorns & 4 kickbins.
Also, I like the kick of kickbins - is there any way to integrate them into a BFM setup (doubt it), or would, say, a fleet of T30's and DR250's be able to faithfully reproduce the kick? (I think so, but want to check). I assume that by having kick bins, it is simply just upping the SPL around those frequencies, making better use of the various cab's passbands and thus possibly requiring less amp power. Is this the only reason? Can anyone suggest any other ideas as to why you would have them?

TYVM

[Grant Bunter]

If you think your T30 build has been ok (much as I thought my T39 builds went ok) then you probably have the chops to bust the DR250's.
I can tell you straight up though, the Otops will be faster.
My DR build has time allotments per session. It's on page one of the build threads. That build thread will also let you get the heads up on a couple of pitfalls (IMO) in building DR's.
You may well be able to do them faster and that would be great, but add it all up and see if you have the time.
Of course, if time is irrelevant, do the DR's

[LelandCrooks]

Kick bins are unnecessary, especially if you use DR's. They will give you plenty of that additional punch. Just cross them lower, around 70, steep as slope as you can create. Be sure to gain stage the rig, at that low for a top you need to pay attention to the power. And you'll probably need to delay to match the subs, unless you let the DR's do it all from 70 and up.

Personally, I'd cross at 90. None of those issues, still plenty of punch. (I hate that term). Just run it. I think you'll be very happy.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

Kickbins are what you use when your tops don't cover the midbass region. Ours do.

can anyone give an estimate as to how many cabs I would need for 100 or so people? I am not talking about Bill's 'recommended' numbers on the bottom of each page per speaker, as free parties call for bloody loud! I assume that the figures quoted are for not quite such a high volume.

The figures quoted are very conservative. Most users could get away with half the recommended number in a pinch.

[escapemcp]

Kickbins are what you use when your tops don't cover the midbass region. Ours do.

Understood

The figures quoted are very conservative. Most users could get away with half the recommended number in a pinch.

Ok, I will try it and see... the answer will naturally present itself in time anyway, and won't actually affect the path I take, so I guess I just need a little patience! Noooooo....
People are nudging me toward DR250 or 280s. Looks like I'll be ordering some more plans then... The first date that I have to hit is 26th May (which is my birthday party & the rig's first airing). I will have to build another T30/2 if the one I have made already is duff due to crap wood = 3/6 weeks (based on 1st build - it will actually be quicker as it will be my 2nd build, but I don't know by how much), which gives me about 4 weeks min (probably about 6 though) to build a couple of DR250s - does this sound reasonable? When I say 4 or 6 weeks I am talking about a weekend (about 10 hours each day), and maybe a couple of evenings (4 hours each) per week