Titan 39 Down Under

[Titanium Hand]

Thanks for the heads up on clamp time and screwing / nailing. If I had a brad gun, I'd use it for sure. Might try a few screws today to get moving.

[Titanium Hand]

Yep screws made it heaps faster. I did panel 3 & 4 at the same time on both this morning. I've been setting up guide boards wrapped in baking paper, pre-drilling and dry fitting each piece prior to adding glue it gives me peace of mind.

Went down to the BEST nuts & bolts shop got M6 socket headed bolts, washers and tee-nuts. 22 of them cost me less than $10 Ive decided that I prefer the slightly larger bolt and the Tee-nut, they just feel a bit more gutsy.

For the afternoon I set about plunge cutting the driver access holes in panel 5. Got pretty close to 1" on the bottom and 3/4" on the top. I cleaned up the corners with the jig-saw followed with some sanding to make it nice. After screwing panels 5 & 5A together in perfect alignment I set out for the tee-nuts. 3 top and bottom 4 1/2" apart 6/16's from the top edge and 7/16's from the bottom edge. I used only two either side 4 1/2" apart 1 3/4" from the outside edges. They went in so quickly I know its advised to use hand tension only but I'm still recovering from hand surgery so I set my drill torque to 6 and smashed them in, with epoxy and all! Quickly aligned the cut outs from panel 5 then glued them to 5A to make 24mm thick panel....I don't imagine that it will vibrate

After tea I went back for more, gluing panel 5's into position. I'm happy with today's progress.

I've used only just over half a tube of PL thus far, its bloody good stuff. The only joint that really swallowed much up has been the 2 / 4 one. I've got hand therapy at 10:30 tomorrow so I'm gunning to fasten 2 / 5 bracing in along with panel 6 before I go out. No luck with photos yet but I'm taking heaps.

I've got a question about driver fitment The additional gasket that comes with the Lab 12, that is used beneath the rim of the driver isn't it? Or do BFM cabs substitute this for weather stripping? Thanks guys

[88h88]

On the advice of other people about the Lab12 fitment, chuck that gasket away and use gasket tape instead.

[Titanium Hand]

Cheers thanks 88h88, I don't know what I was thinking when I ordered my weather stripping. Only ordered 6ft, just enough to seal up the double door (5 & 5A) on one cab
Do you guys feel I should be able to pick some up locally without too much fuss?

My build progressed well today. I only got held up doing the 2 / 5 braces. I tried to mark them up in pairs and drill them together but my hole saw wasn't quite deep enough to take them together resulting in the plugs getting stuck in the arbor EVERY BLOODY TIME for all 16 holes even doing them singly they still got bogged.

I got panels 6 & 7 installed this evening with the bracing going in rapidly. Finally moved into my second tube of PL halfway through gluing panel 7 on the second cab. I was using an abundance on all the braces.

I'm planning on leaving 7 / 8 brace solid, the only down side is weight right

Hopefully I have the building completed tomorrow, wiring and driver fitment the following day

[88h88]

...just in time to piss off the neighbours at the weekend!

[Rick Lee]

I'm planning on leaving 7 / 8 brace solid, the only down side is weight right

Yep.

[Rick Lee]

The additional gasket that comes with the Lab 12, that is used beneath the rim of the driver isn't it?

Are you referring to the gasket that's attached to the speaker? No reason to take it off.

[Titanium Hand]

Bloody Oath There goes the neighborhood!

The gasket I was questioning is the one that comes in the box not fastened to the driver. It would make sense that it is for loading in the circumstances of the T39, although its about as hard as my head and likely to strip the threads out of my hurricanes prior to achieving a good seal

Could anybody advise me to the dimensions of weatherstripping that I should get EPDM? Foam Rubber?

Thanks fellas

[Alien]

... my hole saw wasn't quite deep enough to take them together resulting in the plugs getting stuck in the arbor EVERY BLOODY TIME for all 16 holes even doing them singly they still got bogged.

Go halfway through, then flip the board over and finish the hole from the other side. When the saw breaks through, you'll be left with a 1/4" of wood sticking out that's a piece of cake to grab and pull off the arbour bit.

A

[wounded horse]

... my hole saw wasn't quite deep enough to take them together resulting in the plugs getting stuck in the arbor EVERY BLOODY TIME for all 16 holes even doing them singly they still got bogged.

Go halfway through, then flip the board over and finish the hole from the other side. When the saw breaks through, you'll be left with a 1/4" of wood sticking out that's a piece of cake to grab and pull off the arbour bit.

A

And don't throw those little round plugs away. They make excellent coffee coasters for hobbit sized friends and neighbours.

[88h88]

Bloody Oath There goes the neighborhood!

The gasket I was questioning is the one that comes in the box not fastened to the driver. It would make sense that it is for loading in the circumstances of the T39, although its about as hard as my head and likely to strip the threads out of my hurricanes prior to achieving a good seal

Could anybody advise me to the dimensions of weatherstripping that I should get EPDM? Foam Rubber?

Thanks fellas

The gasket attached to the driver can be left on it, you're not using it and scraping it off could lead to you putting a hole in the cone. The loose one that comes in the box now goes in the bin. For the seal I used gasket tape which was 20mm wide, for the corners where the tape would meet I cut little 'L' shapes in it and fitted the corners together like a jigsaw puzzle and it sealed up nicely once the driver cover was on.

[ripNdeb]

Bloody Oath There goes the neighborhood!

The gasket I was questioning is the one that comes in the box not fastened to the driver. It would make sense that it is for loading in the circumstances of the T39, although its about as hard as my head and likely to strip the threads out of my hurricanes prior to achieving a good seal

Could anybody advise me to the dimensions of weatherstripping that I should get EPDM? Foam Rubber?

Thanks fellas

The included gasket worked fine for me.

[jswingchun]

... my hole saw wasn't quite deep enough to take them together resulting in the plugs getting stuck in the arbor EVERY BLOODY TIME for all 16 holes even doing them singly they still got bogged.

Go halfway through, then flip the board over and finish the hole from the other side. When the saw breaks through, you'll be left with a 1/4" of wood sticking out that's a piece of cake to grab and pull off the arbour bit.

A

Also, drill a couple of holes just inside your cutline. It allows the sawdust created by the hole saw to fall thru the holes and makes a cleaner cut with less burning. That's a trick Bill posted a while back that I have been using.

[67baja]

Also, drill a couple of holes just inside your cutline. It allows the sawdust created by the hole saw to fall thru the holes and makes a cleaner cut with less burning. That's a trick Bill posted a while back that I have been using.

Now THAT is some good information!

[Titanium Hand]

You guys have all got some good information

This afternoon when using the hole saw for the mouth brace I was smoking hard out, it smelt like a bush fire. Doing half a side then flipping over did make the world of difference.

I bought some 20mm x 6mm weather stripping today it was $14.95 for 3 metres. There was some really dense stuff there but it was $50, hopefully the cheaper stuff works

Getting toward the end of my build I'm taking so much care finishing off the individual parts. My back panels were way warped, I used lengths of 70mm x 35mm timber batten with three clamps to straighten the tarts out. That was yesterday. All i got done today was panels 9, 10, 11 & 7 - 8 braces which I decided to leave solid. I cut the mouth braces, screwed them together for the holes and the groove for the horizontal brace.

Devastatingly when installing panel 11 I clamped the bastard to tight and warped out panel 10. One of the cabs is worse than the other. I trial fitted the final side and even using big sash clamps to pull it into submission there is still 2/8" bulge starting where panel 11 meets 10
I figure that i can either learn to live with it as the rest of the build is pretty sharp or try ripping out panel 11 and re-setting it.
Has anybody attempted removing a panel before
I only glued it around 4pm this arvo and tried pulling it out half an hour ago @ 10pm, to no avail. Very good glue, I've been wiping all the joints with a moist rag prior to glue and its working very, very, well. I've been a bit caught up with life but still hoping to finish tomorrow.