dr 200

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Scott Brochu
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dr 200

#1 Post by Scott Brochu »

Can't get enough of a good Dr build??
:fruit: :fruit: :P :mrgreen:
I went with a one piece for the back and side brace. It is not glued up but everything is there except a few things.
Image

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Don't you just love jigs and templates.
Drumming is a way of life.
ME LIKE TO HIT THINGS!
http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewt ... 26&t=11232

sstillwell
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Re: dr 200

#2 Post by sstillwell »

Yay! Keep 'em coming!

:fruit:

Scott

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Scott Brochu
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Re: dr 200

#3 Post by Scott Brochu »

Sorry for not updating this more frequently. Some pics to gander at. :mrgreen:
Ran out of paint so awaiting some more, hopefully this week.
Image

Image

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Drumming is a way of life.
ME LIKE TO HIT THINGS!
http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewt ... 26&t=11232

sstillwell
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Re: dr 200

#4 Post by sstillwell »

Nice routing on the recessed handles.

Looks "Pro". :)

Build all done except for paint+duratex and assembly of speakers+hardware?

Scott

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Scott Brochu
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Re: dr 200

#5 Post by Scott Brochu »

Ta-Da!!
Done.....
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Drumming is a way of life.
ME LIKE TO HIT THINGS!
http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewt ... 26&t=11232

bassmonster
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Re: dr 200

#6 Post by bassmonster »

Nice work! Looks great. :clap:

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J_Dunavin
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Re: dr 200

#7 Post by J_Dunavin »

NICE! Love the finish job!
Are those handles from Leland?
Is that a six pack??
2 - OTop8
2 - T39
8 - DR200
2 - DR250
9 - T24
6 - T45
1 - Auto Tuba

sstillwell
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Re: dr 200

#8 Post by sstillwell »

Four to go along with the two I already have.

I'm a happy camper...can't wait to get 'em and make some noise!

The extra boards sitting loose inside the cabinets are pre-cut baffles for me to mount Dayton PT2C-8 ribbons in. The NL4s in the back are already wired for biamp...just have to cut the holes for the tweets and switch things around. I've got enough ribbons (4) for a pair of the boxes...if it sounds as good as I expect it to, I'll "upgrade" the remaining boxes as well.

Nice to be able to have the best of both worlds...melded arrays for sheer volume, and ribbons for articulation.

:fruit:

Scott

sstillwell
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Re: dr 200

#9 Post by sstillwell »

Note: most of the time I'll be using either one or two pair of the ones pictured here...the third pair is strictly for outdoor gigs where I need more distance and volume than I can cover otherwise.

Or to rent out for multiple systems. :)

Scott

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J_Dunavin
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Re: dr 200

#10 Post by J_Dunavin »

I'm bi amping my four pack and love it. I'm interested to see how you'll like all six of yours.
2 - OTop8
2 - T39
8 - DR200
2 - DR250
9 - T24
6 - T45
1 - Auto Tuba

sstillwell
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Re: dr 200

#11 Post by sstillwell »

J_Dunavin wrote:I'm bi amping my four pack and love it. I'm interested to see how you'll like all six of yours.
You're biamping with piezos? What crossover freq/slope? What passive components are you using (in other words, does the passive crossover get bypassed when you biamp?)

Scott

GirlyHandedDog
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Re: dr 200

#12 Post by GirlyHandedDog »

sstillwell wrote:
J_Dunavin wrote:I'm bi amping my four pack and love it. I'm interested to see how you'll like all six of yours.
You're biamping with piezos? What crossover freq/slope? What passive components are you using (in other words, does the passive crossover get bypassed when you biamp?)

Scott
Most people bi-amp so they can use active components and get a bit more output in high volume situations. It would be a waste to use passive components while bi-amping... unless you're using ribbons that require a passive x-over.

sstillwell
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Re: dr 200

#13 Post by sstillwell »

Well, for piezos you at least need to have resistors on their to make sure the impedance at high frequencies doesn't drop too low...that can cause some power amps to go into oscillation and burn out. Not too common any more, but worth protecting against.

It's also fairly common to leave at least a capacitor in series with the HF components to protect against being inadvertently wired to a LF or full-range signal. Piezos won't care much, but ANY other HF component needs protection against LF...not just ribbons.

Scott

GirlyHandedDog
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Re: dr 200

#14 Post by GirlyHandedDog »

sstillwell wrote: Piezos won't care much, but ANY other HF component needs protection against LF...not just ribbons.
Scott
Yeah, that's what an active crossover does. Ribbons must be run with a passive filter, "ANY other HF component" doesn't, as active will work fine.
sstillwell wrote: It's also fairly common to leave at least a capacitor in series with the HF components to protect against being inadvertently wired to a LF or full-range signal.
Unless you're just plugging things in willy-nilly and crossing your fingers hoping that it works, you don't need to add a capacitor. I pay attention when I wire things. If you're making speakers for an AV club at a high school, that's a different story.

sstillwell
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Re: dr 200

#15 Post by sstillwell »

GirlyHandedDog wrote:
sstillwell wrote: Piezos won't care much, but ANY other HF component needs protection against LF...not just ribbons.
Scott
Yeah, that's what an active crossover does. Ribbons must be run with a passive filter, "ANY other HF component" doesn't, as active will work fine.
sstillwell wrote: It's also fairly common to leave at least a capacitor in series with the HF components to protect against being inadvertently wired to a LF or full-range signal.
Unless you're just plugging things in willy-nilly and crossing your fingers hoping that it works, you don't need to add a capacitor. I pay attention when I wire things. If you're making speakers for an AV club at a high school, that's a different story.

That's fine if you're always the one hooking up the gear. If you're in a rental environment you can NOT count on things being connected correctly 100% of the time.

I didn't say it was "required", I said that it was "fairly common". If your active crossover is properly set, you don't need any passive components on ribbons either...IF you are sure everything is wired and set correctly.

Scott

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