Autotuba w/8" driver 15" wide vs RF P1-2X10

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mustang guy
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Joined: Sat May 14, 2011 9:19 pm
Location: Parkersburg, WV

Re: Autotuba w/8" driver 15" wide vs RF P1-2X10

#16 Post by mustang guy »

We will be installing the system in a 1994 Olds Cutlass this Thursday. I will give you a review then. The other components are a 50w X 4 Pioneer with Bluetooth, 2 - 4" Boston front dash speakers with bass blockers (300)Hz, and rear 3 way 6X9's. I am running the speakers from the head unit to save money.

The AT is in the trunk of the car not wired in yet. It looks beautiful. I used Duratex finish, and mounted a $64 Dual XPA2100 (bridged to 150 Watts 4 ohm) centered to the side. It looks like it was designed by GM for the car. Perfect fit and size.

Including the amp ($64) and about $5 of wire, $2 screws, $9 of Duratex, shipping and the previously mentioned building costs, I spent a total of about $200, and I have a complete sub enclosure and amp ready to drop in a trunk, and will compete with any entry level dual 10" or single 12" commercial sub and amp, which would cost more like $600 with sub and amp, and it weight at least 20 lbs less.

Another little tidbit is the battery and charging system required to drive a big amp. Why should your lights dim when you turn on your car stereo? LOL
Currently operating many systems of different sizes. I have all together 32 Klipsch speakers and 29 other speakers. I am very interested in bf products and bought the entire CD of plans. So far, I have built 2 THT's, an Auto Tuba, a T-30 and an XF212.

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AntonZ
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Re: Autotuba w/8" driver 15" wide vs RF P1-2X10

#17 Post by AntonZ »

bassmonster wrote:For those who have built AT's what driver would you recommend? I'm leaning towards the JBL GTO804 but what about the Tang Band?
Those that have built with both MCM and TB 8" drivers seem to prefer the TB. Don't know about the JBL driver. I think my AT with Tangband is very good.

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mustang guy
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Re: Autotuba w/8" driver 15" wide vs RF P1-2X10

#18 Post by mustang guy »

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Currently operating many systems of different sizes. I have all together 32 Klipsch speakers and 29 other speakers. I am very interested in bf products and bought the entire CD of plans. So far, I have built 2 THT's, an Auto Tuba, a T-30 and an XF212.

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Jon Barnhardt
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Re: Autotuba w/8" driver 15" wide vs RF P1-2X10

#19 Post by Jon Barnhardt »

very sharp!

bassmonster
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Re: Autotuba w/8" driver 15" wide vs RF P1-2X10

#20 Post by bassmonster »

Looks great!

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AntonZ
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Re: Autotuba w/8" driver 15" wide vs RF P1-2X10

#21 Post by AntonZ »

Looking good indeed :)
Have you fired it up yet? I'm sure I could not wait until it sat in the car.

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LelandCrooks
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Re: Autotuba w/8" driver 15" wide vs RF P1-2X10

#22 Post by LelandCrooks »

Exactly the amplifier I have driving an AT. You will be very happy.

Nice cab.
If it's too loud, you're even older than me! Like me.
http://www.speakerhardware.com

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mustang guy
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Re: Autotuba w/8" driver 15" wide vs RF P1-2X10

#23 Post by mustang guy »

Thanks for the compliments! Haven't fired it up in the car. It is a system I am putting in for a young man I am mentoring. Tomorrow, his big brother is going to help me do the install. Hen will be presented his "pimped ride" next weekend.
Currently operating many systems of different sizes. I have all together 32 Klipsch speakers and 29 other speakers. I am very interested in bf products and bought the entire CD of plans. So far, I have built 2 THT's, an Auto Tuba, a T-30 and an XF212.

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mustang guy
Posts: 151
Joined: Sat May 14, 2011 9:19 pm
Location: Parkersburg, WV

Re: Autotuba w/8" driver 15" wide vs RF P1-2X10

#24 Post by mustang guy »

I installed the sub, and it sounds GREAT!

Here is the setup:

94 Cutlass Supreme
Autotuba - $75
8" driver - $52
Dual amp $64
Tuner - new Pioneer 50wpc w/bluetooth and remote control flea market $80
Streetwires 8 guage $28
Streetwires fuse holder $10
AGU 25A fuse $1.29
Fronts 4" Boston Acoustics with 300hz bass blockers $80+$10
Rears 6"X9" Boston Acoustics $70
Used stock wiring with Crutchfield speaker harnesses free
Gold plated spades for amp $10
Misc shipping about $30

This system rivals the $2,400 Pioneer/JL dual amp system I put in my son's car for graduation!

The total cost of the system $510.29!
Currently operating many systems of different sizes. I have all together 32 Klipsch speakers and 29 other speakers. I am very interested in bf products and bought the entire CD of plans. So far, I have built 2 THT's, an Auto Tuba, a T-30 and an XF212.

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Tom Smit
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Re: Autotuba w/8" driver 15" wide vs RF P1-2X10

#25 Post by Tom Smit »

:clap: Yeeeehaaaw!
TomS

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DJ Higgumz
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Re: Autotuba w/8" driver 15" wide vs RF P1-2X10

#26 Post by DJ Higgumz »

Quick note- if your looking for cheap car amps, v3 is a great company, I love my 300 watt monoblock amp. I think v3 is a division of roadmaster, but not sure. Sorry but a little off topic. I'm gonna build a dual mcm at for my friend (don't worry, he's buying the plans), and the fact that it blurs your vision has me psyched! We need vids of it
In your car! The sound of camera mics begging for mercy is beautiful!
Before Fitzmaurice, big bass could only be had with just a hook and a nightcrawler.
Building
4 30" T60s
Built
2 19" T60s
1 30" T39
3 Autotubas with GTO804
Bought
2 Dr250s

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loudsubz
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Re: Autotuba w/8" driver 15" wide vs RF P1-2X10

#27 Post by loudsubz »

OT: last time I heard roadmaster was not a good amp brand :noob:

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DJ Higgumz
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Re: Autotuba w/8" driver 15" wide vs RF P1-2X10

#28 Post by DJ Higgumz »

loudsubz wrote:OT: last time I heard roadmaster was not a good amp brand :noob:
Well neither is the mcm 55 driver. It's the install that counts. You put a mcm in a .5 cu box yes it will suck. But if you put it in a autotuba, it will knock down the Berlin wall. Same with amps, give them apropriate ohm loads, remote shutoff, when using in the winter wait for the speaker to loosen up when car heats up, etc.
Before Fitzmaurice, big bass could only be had with just a hook and a nightcrawler.
Building
4 30" T60s
Built
2 19" T60s
1 30" T39
3 Autotubas with GTO804
Bought
2 Dr250s

User avatar
loudsubz
Posts: 390
Joined: Tue Dec 28, 2010 8:13 pm
Location: Mississauga, Ontario, Canada

Re: Autotuba w/8" driver 15" wide vs RF P1-2X10

#29 Post by loudsubz »

DJ Higgumz wrote:
loudsubz wrote:OT: last time I heard roadmaster was not a good amp brand :noob:
Well neither is the mcm 55 driver. It's the install that counts. You put a mcm in a .5 cu box yes it will suck. But if you put it in a autotuba, it will knock down the Berlin wall. Same with amps, give them apropriate ohm loads, remote shutoff, when using in the winter wait for the speaker to loosen up when car heats up, etc.
I know what your trying to get at but the same doesn't apply. Its the same as pro audio, trying to compare a QSC to a Pyle amp. Roadmaster will most likely come up short on its rated power, have high THD, and use lesser quality components. Take the amp apart and compare it to say a kicker with the same wattage.

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DJ Higgumz
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Re: Autotuba w/8" driver 15" wide vs RF P1-2X10

#30 Post by DJ Higgumz »

loudsubz wrote:
DJ Higgumz wrote:
loudsubz wrote:OT: last time I heard roadmaster was not a good amp brand :noob:
Well neither is the mcm 55 driver. It's the install that counts. You put a mcm in a .5 cu box yes it will suck. But if you put it in a autotuba, it will knock down the Berlin wall. Same with amps, give them apropriate ohm loads, remote shutoff, when using in the winter wait for the speaker to loosen up when car heats up, etc.
I know what your trying to get at but the same doesn't apply. Its the same as pro audio, trying to compare a QSC to a Pyle amp. Roadmaster will most likely come up short on its rated power, have high THD, and use lesser quality components. Take the amp apart and compare it to say a kicker with the same wattage.
But roadmaster isn't a bad brand, it's like eminence of speakers, not Pyle but not tc sounds
Before Fitzmaurice, big bass could only be had with just a hook and a nightcrawler.
Building
4 30" T60s
Built
2 19" T60s
1 30" T39
3 Autotubas with GTO804
Bought
2 Dr250s

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