Hello from Colorado!

[jswingchun]

Since you say you want bass to impress and you have a pickup truck I'd say go with T39s and DR200s (OT12s if you hate woodworking). Classic combination that works great.

+1. The only thing I would add is that you don't have to hate woodworking to decide on the OT12s. Even if you have a ton of woodworking chops, there are other reasons to go with the OT12s. They are quicker to get built, for one.

[jswingchun]

Okay. - So is there an appreciable sound quality difference between the DR200 and the OT12? (at 40' or less.) I'd be into getting them done quickly. Might even do CDs just to get them in the truck. - Get them earning their keep.

I haven't heard the DR200 so I can't answer your question exactly, but the OT12s sound great. I get compliments all the time about how good they sound, and I'm not much of a sound man. They are clear and loud and have really even coverage. Don't go CDs, go melded piezo array. If you are in a hurry and don't want to take the time to build the arrays, buy the prebuilt arrays from Leland at speakerhardware.com. In fact, buy all your stuff from Leland. You can buy the pre-made filters to save more time.

If getting the builds done quickly is a major factor in your decision, then OT probably wins over DR.

[Rick Lee]

Both are great. Use the melded array.
Because you want to get these done build the OT12. You're gonna like the sound so much you won't worry if you missed out on the DRs.

[Rick Lee]

So Bill, in the plans you mention not to cut the parts at the same time to allow for discrepancies in material and tolerances. If one was to have the parts CNC machined, are your dims bang on?

No! He uses 1/2" measurements for the thickness of plywood in all the cabinets (I think the DRs are the only cabs that use a variety of thicknesses) and when you go to buy your plywood you'll notice that it's not exactly 1/2". For instance the Arauco (that I'm using today) is 15/32", BB is in mm, etc. If he were to specify one exact brand and thickness of plywood (and hope that the market never changed) he would be limited to whatever market that wood was sold in. And the dims in the plans would have a lot of numbers in them that would make things more difficult to read.

Once you build a cab you'll understand the logic- so many builders out there with different skill sets it's best to make the plans easy enough for the first timers and use a glue that can hold pieces together that don't have a super tight tolerance.

There are several people on here that have had the parts CNCed- do a search and maybe you could PM to see if they have the exact dims for the ply they used.

One more, then I'll leave you alone: What's the deal with wiring them with dual inputs/parallel jumpers? (did I say that right?) So one can add more cabs in a 16ohm driver setup?

Basically builder's choice. If you know you're never going to parallel cabs or add more cabs it's okay to use one input. It's just so inexpensive to add the extra input for the versatility it gives you it's a no-brainer to include it.

[Mikey]

Wow. So I have four (about to be 5) sets of plans that dims are not accurate? I gotta say, that is somewhat disconcerting. Glad I asked.

You're getting the wrong idea. It's not that they're inaccurate; it's that they MUST have the ability to allow slight variance due to varying wood thicknesses. If Bill had given pin-point dimensions in the plans, according to the dimensions derived using HIS wood, then everyone not using the exact same wood would have inaccurate plans!

Also, bear in mind that 99+% of the folks don't have a CNC machine. They're cutting piece-by-piece on a tablesaw or with a circular saw, so the slight adjustments are no big deal. In fact, I'd imagine that most guys are thankful that there is a little wiggle room LOL.

[Bruce Weldy]

Wow. So I have four (about to be 5) sets of plans in which dims are not accurate? I gotta say, that is somewhat disconcerting. Glad I asked. What does one say to that? Thanks for getting close? C'mon.

I've built T-39s, OT12s, and WH10s.....

Each time I have made my cuts all in advance, exactly to the dimensions listed in the plans (not the rough cut dimensions, the ones in the body of the plans). If you have a table saw and make all of the same length cuts on the same setup, there is no reason that it won't go together like a puzzle - perfectly.

If you are cutting with a circular saw, one piece at a time - then yes, I think I would measure and cut to fit each piece along the way. You just can't be as exact with your cuts. The difference of true 1/2 in ply vs. 12mm ply isn't enough to make a difference. It's the operator and the tools that cause the difference.

[el_ingeniero]

Wow. So I have four (about to be 5) sets of plans in which dims are not accurate? I gotta say, that is somewhat disconcerting. Glad I asked. What does one say to that? Thanks for getting close? C'mon.

My T39 plans have measurements in terms of 1/16th of an inch. That implies a fudge factor of 1/32".

Most people are going to have a very tough time making cuts with 1/32" accuracy. Those that can will find their cabs coming together with very few issues. Those that can't, may have a few problems, but if they're even within 1/8" of the plans, will still have very nice sounding cabs.

[Rick Lee]

Wow. So I have four (about to be 5) sets of plans in which dims are not accurate? I gotta say, that is somewhat disconcerting. Glad I asked. What does one say to that? Thanks for getting close? C'mon.

C'mon is correct. Go ask that to the plywood industry. Be reasonable! If Bill included every dimension for every thickness of plywood available that would be adequate to build these cabinets every body would be complaining about how confusing the plans are because there are so many different variations. And there would be so many pages to the plans it would be ridiculous! At least you're here in the U.S. where you're comfortable (I assume) with inches and feet. Speaking from many years of woodworking experience these plans are well thought out. The tolerances are within 1/16" which is perfect for this type of construction. If you follow the plans you will end up with very nice cabinets.

CNC has been discussed here at length. Search for the threads- it seems that there are as many ways to CNC as there are variations in thickness of plywood. It's doable.

You asked a question. I gave a concrete answer (no) because you want to get these done and you seem to be a "no nonsense" type of person. I'm changing my answer to "yes!" Go have the parts CNC'd and the cabinets should assemble ok. Some of the parts will be off a little bit but if you "split the difference" they should come together ok.

[el_ingeniero]

It's fine. I re-drew and got them where I want them. I suppose I should just shut up and consider $15 a bargain.

EDIT: I guess the thing that really gets me is all of the posts and threads here that talk about "don't second guess the plans" et al.

For what it's worth, I second guessed the plans in a major way.

It's been a royal pain in the ass figuring out how to deal with the difference between 1/2" and 3/8" ply. I did it, but it took me weeks to figure out how. If I had to do it all over again, I'd do the 1/2" ply and be done with it.

Most of us here don't have your CAD skills or access to CNC equipment.

[Rick Lee]

EDIT: I guess the thing that really gets me is all of the posts and threads here that talk about "don't second guess the plans" et al.

The squeaky wheel gets the grease. A chain is no stronger than it's weakest link. As bright as Alaska in December. This is a D.I.Y. enterprise. Great results catering to beginners thru old timers. We get a wide range of abilities on here so since the plans are proven it's easy to say "IITP".
Thanks for doing CAD files. I'm just a woodworking musician so that's way beyond me. Would be fun to have a copy to see what it looks like. And don't worry- many of us had some frustration when we first started this. However, these are great cabinets so it's worth working through questions.

[Mikey]

"The forum thing" suits you just fine. The only stupid question is the one that's not asked. If you want clarifications, ask. You'll find that folks here will bend over backwards to help. Unlike most internet forums, this one's not full of dicks. A lot of us have been here for years, and I hope the same for you. Now GET WITH MAKIN THAT SAWDUST!!!

[el_ingeniero]

If any of you guys with the [official] DR200 plans would like to have the CAD file, you are welcome to it -- 'Not sure what the decorum is for that. It will print up at any-scale at your local copy shop. 'Might be nice to have as a positioning template, pounce pattern... or whatever. In my revision, I let-in all the parts that I could so they'll snap together and self-align with no fuss. I'll re-draw the T39 as soon as I get the .doc.

Thanks to Bill and all of you for your help and opinions. 'Wasn't trying to be a dick. The forum thing just doesn't suit me, I guess.

CAD files for DR200 cabinets would be derived works, to which Bill retains the rights. But send them to Bill. He'd likely distribute them to people who bought the plans from him.

[BrentEvans]

If any of you guys with the [official] DR200 plans would like to have the CAD file, you are welcome to it -- 'Not sure what the decorum is for that..

Bill has said before that he would have to handle distribution to prevent copyright infringement.

[el_ingeniero]

With the SLA Pro, you get the horizontal dispersion from the narrow width of the vertically oriented piezos.

[BrentEvans]

Why not the melded array for a TLA Pro?

Mounting it would be somewhat tricky. The narrow line of a vertical 1016 (or 1005s for that matter) provides sufficient horizontal dispersion.