BillFitzmaurice.info

Looking good, Seth! Those T39s are amazing. I had no idea what to expect when I fired mine up and all I could say was WOW!!!

I had a minimal overhang issue as well and fixed it with PL. No problems since.

Enjoy, man.

I gotta say, by FAR, like by a grand margin, the router is the messiest tool I own. This thing throws chips and dust like it's going for Olympic Gold! Gaw dayum!

A lot of filling and sanding today. Put a couple coats of paint on, but I see a few more spots I wanna better fill before putting the DuraTex on.

No pics today.

SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Thu Mar 26, 2020 3:06 pm I gotta say, by FAR, like by a grand margin, the router is the messiest tool I own. This thing throws chips and dust like it's going for Olympic Gold! Gaw dayum!

Agreed!

I've started taking some old towels and spreading them over everything else on my work bench just to keep from having to clean everything on the bench when I'm through routing.

Yeah, I know they make vacuum ports.....just haven't done that yet.

SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Thu Mar 26, 2020 3:06 pm I gotta say, by FAR, like by a grand margin, the router is the messiest tool I own. This thing throws chips and dust like it's going for Olympic Gold! Gaw dayum!

Messy and wicked dangerous. Go slow, make sure you're always going the right direction, and have a sharp bit. Amazing what you can do with routers. I have a little trim router, a larger handheld, and one in a table. Very handy! I actually never used a pattern-following bit until I learned about them on here.

Wow.....I use the pattern bits all the time... Great for making you look like the king of clean edges..

Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Fri Mar 27, 2020 8:15 am Wow.....I use the pattern bits all the time... Great for making you look like the king of clean edges..

Yep, thanks to you and Leland... It's good to be the king!!

himhimself wrote: ↑Fri Mar 27, 2020 9:53 am

Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Fri Mar 27, 2020 8:15 am Wow.....I use the pattern bits all the time... Great for making you look like the king of clean edges..

Yep, thanks to you and Leland... It's good to be the king!!

I did a repair on the Princeton that had been turned into a head only cab. I let the sides overhang a little a long with the patch I had to do, then used the pattern (or flush cut) bit to make it true to the bottom....amazing how well that works...

And be sure and get two bits - one with the bearing on top and one with it on the bottom.

So, I have the flush cut bit. And you guys are so right! It made the cab look clean and precise where it may not have been as exact as I'd have liked. So... like, every seam! LOL

I was trying to figure out how to carve out a perfect circle to recess the flange of the top hat. Pattern bit with a bearing on top sounds like a winner! Thanks guys!

SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Fri Mar 27, 2020 12:40 pm So, I have the flush cut bit. And you guys are so right! It made the cab look clean and precise where it may not have been as exact as I'd have liked. So... like, every seam! LOL

I was trying to figure out how to carve out a perfect circle to recess the flange of the top hat. Pattern bit with a bearing on top sounds like a winner! Thanks guys!

I wouldn't bother. If you have feet on it, it will never be a problem. Nor, with chevron corners. If you try to set it in too deep, you are really lowering the integrity of that 1/2" ply.

DuraTex'd 5 sides. Looks pretty good. A couple spots I missed filling show through, although I'm not sure the average person would notice or not. I'll work on getting the access panel and mouth area finished up tomorrow. Then, I guess it's just down to putting all the hardware in and deciding which driver to put in it for Dad duty. I wanna hear the S2012. It's such an interesting driver to me. I'll let you guys know what I think.

Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Fri Mar 27, 2020 12:52 pm

SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Fri Mar 27, 2020 12:40 pm So, I have the flush cut bit. And you guys are so right! It made the cab look clean and precise where it may not have been as exact as I'd have liked. So... like, every seam! LOL

I was trying to figure out how to carve out a perfect circle to recess the flange of the top hat. Pattern bit with a bearing on top sounds like a winner! Thanks guys!

I wouldn't bother. If you have feet on it, it will never be a problem. Nor, with chevron corners. If you try to set it in too deep, you are really lowering the integrity of that 1/2" ply.

Decided to pass on the recessed top hat. Really, just out of wanting to finish and not add more to the list. However, the flange is 0.200"/5mm. Given the proximity to panels 3
and 9, and that I doubled the ply up under the top hat, I'm fairly certain there wouldn't have been an issue with thinning that area. It would have been a nice touch. Oh well, next time the oportunity arises, I'll at least know what tool to use. Thanks again guys

So, let's chat a little about wood fillers. I like bondo. However, it clogs up sandpaper like no one's business. I like the bondo putty spot filler in the tube too. Great for a little fill in here and there and doesn't seem to clog sandpaper. But, it's not really appropriate for skimming an entire panel.

What I'd like to find is a filler that I can spread over an entire panel and sand without clogging sand paper. Fairly priced, easy to use, quick drying, and less chemically smelling would be side benefits.

What do you guys use and recommend?

Mmmm are you sure it was dry?
The only time(s) I've ever had problems with clogging up the sandpaper are when I;
Don't wait long enough for it to dry.
Don't put in enough hardener...