Wireless DMX :0
Wireless DMX :0
Most of the information you would need is contained in this instructable:
https://www.instructables.com/id/ESP8266-Artnet-to-DMX/
good info here too:
https://www.instructables.com/id/ESP8266-Breadboard/
This wireless module works off of a regular home router, though there are industry recommendations on what you should be using.
There is a risk of loosing packets of information, but i haven't seen any issues, as of yet, and that is with 8 modules running off of an older home lynksis router. and running out across a gym, with other cell phones and such.... no problems.
The difference between the ones i made and his are:
-I used a wallwart or external dc power supply to run 12vdc into the box, then i used a 3.3vdc and a 5vdc voltage regulators to step down the 12vdc to run the ESP8266 and supply 5vdc for the rs485 converter.
I should note that the esp8266 as well as the chips i used for the data lines are very subject to VCC noise. Ripples of noise on their main power line. It's very important to use a good capacitor accross the DC voltage regulators. I especially noted this when i 1st tried things out and the mirror on my scan light would shutter.. sometimes.
-Because of the external power supply, i was able to get things into a smaller box
https://www.newark.com/webapp/wcs/store ... reId=10194
- I also installed a opto isolator from the output of the esp8266 to the input of the rs485 converter. IF there was some funny spike down the line, this opto isolator should save the esp8266.
usefull links
https://tttapa.github.io/ESP8266/Chap01 ... P8266.html
https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/es ... uino-addon
There have been some updates to his project on another indestructible that he posted that would include information on set up... some of it i still felt as though i was stumbling through. There is a ton of info here, If anyone was interested i would be happy to help.
https://www.instructables.com/id/ESP8266-Artnet-to-DMX/
good info here too:
https://www.instructables.com/id/ESP8266-Breadboard/
This wireless module works off of a regular home router, though there are industry recommendations on what you should be using.
There is a risk of loosing packets of information, but i haven't seen any issues, as of yet, and that is with 8 modules running off of an older home lynksis router. and running out across a gym, with other cell phones and such.... no problems.
The difference between the ones i made and his are:
-I used a wallwart or external dc power supply to run 12vdc into the box, then i used a 3.3vdc and a 5vdc voltage regulators to step down the 12vdc to run the ESP8266 and supply 5vdc for the rs485 converter.
I should note that the esp8266 as well as the chips i used for the data lines are very subject to VCC noise. Ripples of noise on their main power line. It's very important to use a good capacitor accross the DC voltage regulators. I especially noted this when i 1st tried things out and the mirror on my scan light would shutter.. sometimes.
-Because of the external power supply, i was able to get things into a smaller box
https://www.newark.com/webapp/wcs/store ... reId=10194
- I also installed a opto isolator from the output of the esp8266 to the input of the rs485 converter. IF there was some funny spike down the line, this opto isolator should save the esp8266.
usefull links
https://tttapa.github.io/ESP8266/Chap01 ... P8266.html
https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/es ... uino-addon
There have been some updates to his project on another indestructible that he posted that would include information on set up... some of it i still felt as though i was stumbling through. There is a ton of info here, If anyone was interested i would be happy to help.
Last edited by J_Dunavin on Fri Oct 12, 2018 12:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
2 - OTop8
2 - T39
8 - DR200
2 - DR250
9 - T24
6 - T45
1 - Auto Tuba
2 - T39
8 - DR200
2 - DR250
9 - T24
6 - T45
1 - Auto Tuba
Re: Wireless DMX :0
Damn JD... You are one crafty SOB! Cool stuff
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Re: Wireless DMX :0
out of necessity I assure you, I don’t have the budget to just go buy, but I do like to tinker.
2 - OTop8
2 - T39
8 - DR200
2 - DR250
9 - T24
6 - T45
1 - Auto Tuba
2 - T39
8 - DR200
2 - DR250
9 - T24
6 - T45
1 - Auto Tuba
Re: Wireless DMX :0
Very trick.
Good food, good people, good times.
4 - AT
1 - TT
1 - THT Slim
2 - SLA Pro 4x6 Alphalite
4 - AT
1 - TT
1 - THT Slim
2 - SLA Pro 4x6 Alphalite
Re: Wireless DMX :0
This is great! I wish I could build this by myself... As soon there is a simple soldering-kit available I will order it
Re: Wireless DMX :0
So, now I'm starting to daydream about this project and I don't even have any lighting fixtures!
Thinking it would be great to utilize an 18650 battery for a completely wireless solution... Or take apart one fixture (if I had one) and assemble the circuit inside the fixture housing (tapping into power within), making that fixture a master fixture that others can be daisy chained to.
Thinking it would be great to utilize an 18650 battery for a completely wireless solution... Or take apart one fixture (if I had one) and assemble the circuit inside the fixture housing (tapping into power within), making that fixture a master fixture that others can be daisy chained to.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Re: Wireless DMX :0
I don’t have pictures, but I did just that with a couple of the ADJ pocket scans that I had to fix anyway.
They were pretty easy because the dmx line was a 3 pin Molex coming off the board. All I had to do was make an adapter harness.
No easy kit, but if anyone really wanted to make one or two just let me know, I’d be happy to help.
I already have the code, I can flash some chips for you, and whatever else ya might need.
They were pretty easy because the dmx line was a 3 pin Molex coming off the board. All I had to do was make an adapter harness.
No easy kit, but if anyone really wanted to make one or two just let me know, I’d be happy to help.
I already have the code, I can flash some chips for you, and whatever else ya might need.
2 - OTop8
2 - T39
8 - DR200
2 - DR250
9 - T24
6 - T45
1 - Auto Tuba
2 - T39
8 - DR200
2 - DR250
9 - T24
6 - T45
1 - Auto Tuba
Re: Wireless DMX :0
A PCB layout that you can send to a PCB-maker would be nice, and a partlist for Mouser or other store... and pre-flashed chips indeed.
If you just can flash thru USB then it isn't difficult to flash.
How is the latency for those units?
How much do the parts cost?
Maybe I'm asking to much...
If you just can flash thru USB then it isn't difficult to flash.
How is the latency for those units?
How much do the parts cost?
Maybe I'm asking to much...
Re: Wireless DMX :0
Is it possible to use pre-made bcb's like these:
https://www.hobbyelectronica.nl/product ... CHEALw_wcB
https://www.hobbyelectronica.nl/product ... hkEALw_wcB
https://www.hobbyelectronica.nl/product ... CHEALw_wcB
https://www.hobbyelectronica.nl/product ... hkEALw_wcB
Re: Wireless DMX :0
no no, your not asking too much at all.
The PCB thing wouldn't be difficult, just time consuming for me right now.
I should say that it is just a usb flash... BUT you have to go through an arduino, teensy, or something like this guy:
https://www.newark.com/ftdi/mm232r/dev- ... %20modules
There are other options from FTDI out there. This one caught my attention early on, since it has a type B usb connector in there. My 1ft route was a wires solution, which still used the RS485 chip, and opto isolator, it was all just wired.
I also used this when i have needed to communicate to my DIY flood light modules, so making a usb to serial interface is a good idea to have around.
Other parts
MAX 485 transiver
https://www.newark.com/texas-instrument ... w%2Fsearch
opto isolator
https://www.newark.com/vishay/6n137/opt ... 5?st=*n137
ESP8266
Now i used this one because the instructables article said that's what he used. I will say it is nice to have an external antenna, and i do not know the range of the other units with the antenna on the PCB. This one is a little particular in that the pin spacing is 2mm where all the rest of the prototype stuff is 2.54mm. You just have to solder some leads on there.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5x-ESP8266-ESP ... 1438.l2649
enclosure:
https://www.newark.com/webapp/wcs/store ... reId=10194
XLR connector
https://www.newark.com/neutrik/nc3faah2 ... dp/10J0634
here is how i have mine layed out
The PCB thing wouldn't be difficult, just time consuming for me right now.
I should say that it is just a usb flash... BUT you have to go through an arduino, teensy, or something like this guy:
https://www.newark.com/ftdi/mm232r/dev- ... %20modules
There are other options from FTDI out there. This one caught my attention early on, since it has a type B usb connector in there. My 1ft route was a wires solution, which still used the RS485 chip, and opto isolator, it was all just wired.
I also used this when i have needed to communicate to my DIY flood light modules, so making a usb to serial interface is a good idea to have around.
Other parts
MAX 485 transiver
https://www.newark.com/texas-instrument ... w%2Fsearch
opto isolator
https://www.newark.com/vishay/6n137/opt ... 5?st=*n137
ESP8266
Now i used this one because the instructables article said that's what he used. I will say it is nice to have an external antenna, and i do not know the range of the other units with the antenna on the PCB. This one is a little particular in that the pin spacing is 2mm where all the rest of the prototype stuff is 2.54mm. You just have to solder some leads on there.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5x-ESP8266-ESP ... 1438.l2649
enclosure:
https://www.newark.com/webapp/wcs/store ... reId=10194
XLR connector
https://www.newark.com/neutrik/nc3faah2 ... dp/10J0634
here is how i have mine layed out
2 - OTop8
2 - T39
8 - DR200
2 - DR250
9 - T24
6 - T45
1 - Auto Tuba
2 - T39
8 - DR200
2 - DR250
9 - T24
6 - T45
1 - Auto Tuba
Re: Wireless DMX :0
I'll dive into this later, it's fantastic
-
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Tue Jul 31, 2018 12:08 pm
- Location: Cool, CA
Re: Wireless DMX :0
Getting ready to give this a shot. How does this look for a parts list?
Max435 x4
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Te ... PLGT6MQ%3d
Optoisolator x4
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vi ... 3XcrXyY%3d
Xlr jacks x4
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ne ... DFuu6gE%3d
5v regulator x2
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ST ... sEyhlP4%3d
3.3v regulator x2
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ST ... M6QJSi0%3d
Esp8266 x2
https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-ESP8266- ... ref=plSrch
Antennas
https://www.amazon.com/Diymall-Antenna- ... W2KD92JXGB
Max435 x4
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Te ... PLGT6MQ%3d
Optoisolator x4
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vi ... 3XcrXyY%3d
Xlr jacks x4
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ne ... DFuu6gE%3d
5v regulator x2
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ST ... sEyhlP4%3d
3.3v regulator x2
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ST ... M6QJSi0%3d
Esp8266 x2
https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-ESP8266- ... ref=plSrch
Antennas
https://www.amazon.com/Diymall-Antenna- ... W2KD92JXGB
Re: Wireless DMX :0
Stby, I’ll take a closer look later tonight.
What are you going to use to program the ESPs?
What are you going to use to program the ESPs?
2 - OTop8
2 - T39
8 - DR200
2 - DR250
9 - T24
6 - T45
1 - Auto Tuba
2 - T39
8 - DR200
2 - DR250
9 - T24
6 - T45
1 - Auto Tuba
-
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Tue Jul 31, 2018 12:08 pm
- Location: Cool, CA
Re: Wireless DMX :0
That was going to be part of my next question. I saw the little FTDI device you posted, also read you could program it with an Arduino. I have no prior Arduino or other microcontroller experience. Was thinking of picking up an Arduino uno to play around with, especially if I can use it to program the ESP. I also want to learn as I'm planning on building your other projects as well.
Re: Wireless DMX :0
Ok everything except the voltage regulators will work just fine.
Your on the right path though, Arduino stuff is fun to learn, though i will caution that this is a pretty steep learning curve for your 1st project. No problem though i will help you along the way.
You would also not HAVE to do two outputs. You can just daisy chain your lights with one or two of these modules using just one of the outputs.
The 5vdc regulator you linked will still output 5vdc, but the current starts to drop off. The web page descriptions can be a little misleading, you have to go through the datasheet and look over the specs.
( I JUST had this very same problem. I bought a 3.3v reg but it was meant to have 15vdc input for full current output. It was getting hot and i noticed i had flickering lights. A proper reg fixed it all up. )
See this 5vdc regulator:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Te ... YA2t4vU%3d
The 3.3vdc regulator is even more important in this case as the ESP8266 is susceptible to current. You need a stronger regulator.
See this 3.3vdc regulator:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Te ... GonDGCY%3d
You will also need a capacitor across the output and gnd of the regulator, things won't work unless you smooth out the DC line. A 10uF electrolytic type will do just fine, i use this type, works for a lot of different stuff: (the strip goes on the ground side)
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Il ... hKrFgGU%3d
protobaord.
I like this type, that has a a few holes tied together. This way you can solder the chip down, then the wire onto an adjacent hole, it helps cut down on wires accross the board. Just cut this board to size.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bu ... RFfZ4g8%3d
Socket for the ICs, solder these in then you can place your chips into them, then pull them out for troubleshooting or if you ever have to replace:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Om ... IFTVJM8%3d
Resistors, no need to high tolerance wire wound for this application, See the V2 schematic:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ya ... sJrA%3d%3d
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ya ... Nnxg%3d%3d
if your doing a bunch with the Arduino some 10K ohm resistors will come in handy for hold up and hold downs (not needed for this project)
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ya ... DaNOpZE%3d
This XLR connector is a little cheaper too and is still Neutrik. It is meant to be mounted from inside the panel and has little pins on the back to solder to instead of solder cups.
straight pins
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ne ... PT2Zr6I%3d
90deg pins
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ne ... iXyGDW4%3d
You will also need a power source, I only linked this one for reference, you can find these on Ebay for much cheaper (12vdc wallwart)
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Tr ... 2fYRAE4%3d
Read up on the ESP8266 with the Arduino IDE environment. (IDE is the Arduino software for programming in) and read up on artnet and DMX protocal.
When you order your Arduino, see if you can find one with a starter kit and a site where you could go through some starter tutorials. This will help you learn about micro controllers and how to start simple programs.
how to use the arduino to program the ESP, NOTE: the ESP8266-07 is funny in that is has two buttons. There is a sequence on how to apply power and button pressing to get it into programming mode.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NE5xhG05Uyw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q6NBnPfPhWE
https://tttapa.github.io/ESP8266/Chap01 ... P8266.html
There are other links as well
Your on the right path though, Arduino stuff is fun to learn, though i will caution that this is a pretty steep learning curve for your 1st project. No problem though i will help you along the way.
You would also not HAVE to do two outputs. You can just daisy chain your lights with one or two of these modules using just one of the outputs.
The 5vdc regulator you linked will still output 5vdc, but the current starts to drop off. The web page descriptions can be a little misleading, you have to go through the datasheet and look over the specs.
( I JUST had this very same problem. I bought a 3.3v reg but it was meant to have 15vdc input for full current output. It was getting hot and i noticed i had flickering lights. A proper reg fixed it all up. )
See this 5vdc regulator:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Te ... YA2t4vU%3d
The 3.3vdc regulator is even more important in this case as the ESP8266 is susceptible to current. You need a stronger regulator.
See this 3.3vdc regulator:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Te ... GonDGCY%3d
You will also need a capacitor across the output and gnd of the regulator, things won't work unless you smooth out the DC line. A 10uF electrolytic type will do just fine, i use this type, works for a lot of different stuff: (the strip goes on the ground side)
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Il ... hKrFgGU%3d
protobaord.
I like this type, that has a a few holes tied together. This way you can solder the chip down, then the wire onto an adjacent hole, it helps cut down on wires accross the board. Just cut this board to size.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bu ... RFfZ4g8%3d
Socket for the ICs, solder these in then you can place your chips into them, then pull them out for troubleshooting or if you ever have to replace:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Om ... IFTVJM8%3d
Resistors, no need to high tolerance wire wound for this application, See the V2 schematic:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ya ... sJrA%3d%3d
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ya ... Nnxg%3d%3d
if your doing a bunch with the Arduino some 10K ohm resistors will come in handy for hold up and hold downs (not needed for this project)
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ya ... DaNOpZE%3d
This XLR connector is a little cheaper too and is still Neutrik. It is meant to be mounted from inside the panel and has little pins on the back to solder to instead of solder cups.
straight pins
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ne ... PT2Zr6I%3d
90deg pins
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ne ... iXyGDW4%3d
You will also need a power source, I only linked this one for reference, you can find these on Ebay for much cheaper (12vdc wallwart)
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Tr ... 2fYRAE4%3d
Read up on the ESP8266 with the Arduino IDE environment. (IDE is the Arduino software for programming in) and read up on artnet and DMX protocal.
When you order your Arduino, see if you can find one with a starter kit and a site where you could go through some starter tutorials. This will help you learn about micro controllers and how to start simple programs.
how to use the arduino to program the ESP, NOTE: the ESP8266-07 is funny in that is has two buttons. There is a sequence on how to apply power and button pressing to get it into programming mode.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NE5xhG05Uyw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q6NBnPfPhWE
https://tttapa.github.io/ESP8266/Chap01 ... P8266.html
There are other links as well
Last edited by J_Dunavin on Fri Oct 12, 2018 12:04 am, edited 1 time in total.
2 - OTop8
2 - T39
8 - DR200
2 - DR250
9 - T24
6 - T45
1 - Auto Tuba
2 - T39
8 - DR200
2 - DR250
9 - T24
6 - T45
1 - Auto Tuba