Since we're from all over the world...
Heads up for any Aussies preparing to dabble in anything electrical.
We don't have L, we have A for Active
We do have N for Neutral and E for Earth
For powercon connectors from OS here, if you see L then treat that as active.
Also, our wire colours are different.
Old standard was: Red Active, Black Neutral, Green Earth (I've put this in a sometimes you see the odd older extension cord cable still having this)
New standard: Brown Active, Blue Neutral, Yellow/Green stripe Earth
My little primer, every time:
Active: Brown Red
Neutral: Blue Black
Aside from that (I saw a comment about not using cannon type fittings on PA gear a while back), JANDS amps (which as old iron amps are getting quite cheap for reasonable output) decided for a while they would do things differently at various times.
So their input is always hot or + on pin 2. Pins 1 (shield) and 3 (-) are grounded internally.
Their output cannon may be pin three hot or +, 2 cold -
OR not! Always check the circuit diagram on the upper face of the case...
Apologies for the jack.
Nuetrik Powercon help
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- Location: Ilfracombe Queensland Australia
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Re: Nuetrik Powercon help
Last edited by Grant Bunter on Fri Apr 27, 2012 4:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
- Jon Barnhardt
- Posts: 718
- Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 1:20 pm
- Location: Bismarck, ND - Licensed builder
- Contact:
Re: Nuetrik Powercon help
Not many colorblind electricians over there, huh?!Grant Bunter wrote:Since we're from all over the world...
Heads up for any Aussies preparing to dabble in anything electrical.
We don't have L, we have A for Active
We do have N for Neutral and E for Earth
For powercon connectors from OS here, if you see L then treat that as active.
Also, our wire colours are different.
Old standard was: Red Active, Black Neutral, Green Earth (I've put this in a sometimes you see the odd older extension cord cable still having this)
New standard: Brown Active, Blue Neutral, Yellow/Green stripe Earth
My little primer, every time:
Active: Brown Red
Neutral: Blue Black
-
- Posts: 6915
- Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:12 am
- Location: Ilfracombe Queensland Australia
- Contact:
Re: Nuetrik Powercon help
Jon, I think Red Green colour blindness was probably the reason for the switch to brown/blue/yellow and green.
Of course, when done, you should always check, I just confirm with continuity testing...
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
Re: Nuetrik Powercon help
This is exactly why they have been trying to adopt an international electrical code for many years. Old habits die hard I guess. Just like when we tried to adopt the metric system here in the States. Didn't take very well. No matter where you are, just be safe.
2 X Frankensteiner Tops
2 X Frankensteiner Subs
1 X DCS255-4 10" TT
1 X DCS205-4 8" TAT
1 X DCS205-4 8" Dual TAT
Rectangular TLAH
SLA Center
2xSLA Pro 2x6
TUBA 30 Slims on the way
2 X Frankensteiner Subs
1 X DCS255-4 10" TT
1 X DCS205-4 8" TAT
1 X DCS205-4 8" Dual TAT
Rectangular TLAH
SLA Center
2xSLA Pro 2x6
TUBA 30 Slims on the way
- Rune Bivrin
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- Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2008 5:42 pm
- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
Re: Nuetrik Powercon help
Oh, I was more worried about those who make a fuzz about not mixing up live and neutral. It shouldn't make a difference in appliances, but there's nothing wrong in doing it according to code. I'm pretty careful about getting the colours of wires correct according to the letters on connectors, even when I know it won't matter.la80vette wrote:Who's making assumptions. All I did was ask a question. I got my answer from an electrician friend before anyone here responded. I am so sorry I asked the question at all. I've learned my lesson.
Edit: If it makes a difference in an appliance, I would disconnect it and repair it. There is clearly something wrong with an amp that relies on plug "polarity".
In build order:
O12 with no tweeter.
3 x WedgeHorns.
2 x Jack 10 without tweeters.
2 x DR250.
2 x 16" T39
1 x Tuba 24
2 x SLA Pro (sort of...)
O12 with no tweeter.
3 x WedgeHorns.
2 x Jack 10 without tweeters.
2 x DR250.
2 x 16" T39
1 x Tuba 24
2 x SLA Pro (sort of...)