Amp rack breakout panel
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- Posts: 676
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2013 5:56 pm
- Location: Colonial Beach VA
Re: Amp rack breakout panel
For the price they can't be beat....
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/555-15497
Sommer cable makes all kind of things to fit the holes: Indicators, switches, 1/8" stereo jacks, etc....
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/555-15497
Sommer cable makes all kind of things to fit the holes: Indicators, switches, 1/8" stereo jacks, etc....
BFM rig:
6 OT12
4 T48
4 WH8
Other:
56 box Electrotec LabQ rig
Way too many cables
6 OT12
4 T48
4 WH8
Other:
56 box Electrotec LabQ rig
Way too many cables
- jswingchun
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- Joined: Fri Dec 01, 2006 9:43 am
- Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa
- Contact:
Re: Amp rack breakout panel
I thought about that but I always seem to be rearranging stuff and drilling out pop rivets is kinda a pain.BrentEvans wrote:Thats what pop rivets are for.
Those are pretty clever. I will have to order some for next time.Rune Bivrin wrote: That's why Neutrik created these:
Omni 10
Omni 10.5
OmniTop 12 x 4
Wedgehorn 8 x 3
XF212
T39 @ 18" x 2
T39 @ 20" x 2
T39 @ 28" x 2
Jack 110 x 5
Jack Lite 12
XF210
XF210 (Slant only, no crossfire)
Omni 10.5
OmniTop 12 x 4
Wedgehorn 8 x 3
XF212
T39 @ 18" x 2
T39 @ 20" x 2
T39 @ 28" x 2
Jack 110 x 5
Jack Lite 12
XF210
XF210 (Slant only, no crossfire)
Re: Amp rack breakout panel
Right behind the neutrik is how I use them (and I think how they are supposed to be used - they clip onto the connectors and you forget they are even there):Rune Bivrin wrote:Yup. Right behind the panel. I suppose if you've got lumberjack hands it might be tricky, but I never really noticed. Getting separate M3 nuts there is much harder, but since these position the threads at the correct angle by default it is really quite trivial.Bruce Weldy wrote:Ok...I guess I'm not smart enough to figure it out....how does that attach to the panel? Looked at the technical drawings and still don't get it.Rune Bivrin wrote: That's why Neutrik created these:
http://www.neutrik.com/en/phono-rca/pho ... sories/mfd
Does it just go behind the rack panel? If so, you still have the issue of getting the small holes just right or it will rack the screw....and that it what makes getting the nut on complicated.
Then attach neutrik BEHIND the panel. Looks neater and attachment is SO simple (just screw them up). If you need to rearrange your connections then you don't have the trouble of having the wire going through the hole in the patch panel... simply unscrew, move and rescrew back up. Job done
You can sort of see the result in one my previous posts in this thread.
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- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
- Location: New Braunfels, TX
Re: Amp rack breakout panel
escapemcp wrote: Then attach neutrik BEHIND the panel. Looks neater and attachment is SO simple (just screw them up). If you need to rearrange your connections then you don't have the trouble of having the wire going through the hole in the patch panel... simply unscrew, move and rescrew back up. Job done
You can sort of see the result in one my previous posts in this thread.
Ahhhhhhhh......now I get it!
That would have to be with a pre-punched panel or one that is cut with a punch. My drilled holes are not nearly pretty enough to put the connector behind.
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
- Rune Bivrin
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Re: Amp rack breakout panel
You know, I hadn't really thought of that. Works either way, I suppose, as long as your panel isn't too thick. If you can countersink the holes in the panel your way can be way neater.escapemcp wrote: Right behind the neutrik is how I use them (and I think how they are supposed to be used - they clip onto the connectors and you forget they are even there):
Then attach neutrik BEHIND the panel. Looks neater and attachment is SO simple (just screw them up). If you need to rearrange your connections then you don't have the trouble of having the wire going through the hole in the patch panel... simply unscrew, move and rescrew back up. Job done
You can sort of see the result in one my previous posts in this thread.
In build order:
O12 with no tweeter.
3 x WedgeHorns.
2 x Jack 10 without tweeters.
2 x DR250.
2 x 16" T39
1 x Tuba 24
2 x SLA Pro (sort of...)
O12 with no tweeter.
3 x WedgeHorns.
2 x Jack 10 without tweeters.
2 x DR250.
2 x 16" T39
1 x Tuba 24
2 x SLA Pro (sort of...)
Re: Amp rack breakout panel
Thanks everyone, some really useful pointers, the pre-punched panels and the mfd fixing plates look neat.
And thanks Grant for the links about gauge/distance/loss.
In the UK, speaker cable seems to be most commonly available in 1.5mm, 2.5mm and 4mm diameters (haven't seen anything inbetween).
If I'm not mistaken this roughly correlates to AWG 15, 10 and 6 respectively (SWG 17, 12 and 8, but I'm guessing you guys deal in AWG).
Most people seem to be suggesting to run 12-14g cable from amp to speaker - I'm going to have to choose between 10 and 15, and from reading Grant's links, I'm inclined to go for 10.
It's going to be pretty small system (at least intially) and I'm not anticipating ever having to run cable longer than 10-15m, so it's probably not going to make much of a difference either way, but wanted to check in case there's a reason the 15g would be the better choice....
And thanks Grant for the links about gauge/distance/loss.
In the UK, speaker cable seems to be most commonly available in 1.5mm, 2.5mm and 4mm diameters (haven't seen anything inbetween).
If I'm not mistaken this roughly correlates to AWG 15, 10 and 6 respectively (SWG 17, 12 and 8, but I'm guessing you guys deal in AWG).
Most people seem to be suggesting to run 12-14g cable from amp to speaker - I'm going to have to choose between 10 and 15, and from reading Grant's links, I'm inclined to go for 10.
It's going to be pretty small system (at least intially) and I'm not anticipating ever having to run cable longer than 10-15m, so it's probably not going to make much of a difference either way, but wanted to check in case there's a reason the 15g would be the better choice....
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- Posts: 8301
- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
- Location: New Braunfels, TX
Re: Amp rack breakout panel
monekh wrote:Thanks everyone, some really useful pointers, the pre-punched panels and the mfd fixing plates look neat.
And thanks Grant for the links about gauge/distance/loss.
In the UK, speaker cable seems to be most commonly available in 1.5mm, 2.5mm and 4mm diameters (haven't seen anything inbetween).
If I'm not mistaken this roughly correlates to AWG 15, 10 and 6 respectively (SWG 17, 12 and 8, but I'm guessing you guys deal in AWG).
Most people seem to be suggesting to run 12-14g cable from amp to speaker - I'm going to have to choose between 10 and 15, and from reading Grant's links, I'm inclined to go for 10.
It's going to be pretty small system (at least intially) and I'm not anticipating ever having to run cable longer than 10-15m, so it's probably not going to make much of a difference either way, but wanted to check in case there's a reason the 15g would be the better choice....
Always go bigger instead of smaller. If you can't get the 2.0mm - go with the 2.5.
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
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- Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:12 am
- Location: Ilfracombe Queensland Australia
- Contact:
Re: Amp rack breakout panel
Better to go on area (ie mm squared) rather than diameter to work out the equivalent gauge.
Here's another handy chart for you:
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/awg-w ... d_731.html
Here's another handy chart for you:
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/awg-w ... d_731.html
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
Re: Amp rack breakout panel
Nice. I'd always wondered what was the standard on which the AWG was 'based'. I have just checked Wikipedia and apparently it's the number of times that the wire had to be drawn through dies.. so 20AWG was drawn 20 times through progressively smaller dies. Thought it interesting enough to post, although I expect quite a few of you already knew (especially the US builders who deal AWG with rather than mm²)
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- Posts: 8301
- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
- Location: New Braunfels, TX
Re: Amp rack breakout panel
I just Googled a Gauge to MM conversion calculator......you know, if it's on the innerweb thingy, it's got to be true.escapemcp wrote:Nice. I'd always wondered what was the standard on which the AWG was 'based'. I have just checked Wikipedia and apparently it's the number of times that the wire had to be drawn through dies.. so 20AWG was drawn 20 times through progressively smaller dies. Thought it interesting enough to post, although I expect quite a few of you already knew (especially the US builders who deal AWG with rather than mm²)
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
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- Posts: 676
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2013 5:56 pm
- Location: Colonial Beach VA
Re: Amp rack breakout panel
Oh. You mean it's not like shotgun gauges?
BFM rig:
6 OT12
4 T48
4 WH8
Other:
56 box Electrotec LabQ rig
Way too many cables
6 OT12
4 T48
4 WH8
Other:
56 box Electrotec LabQ rig
Way too many cables