Amp for a table tuba.

[ecut1]

Hi,

I just bought my table tuba plans last night. I plan on purchasing the 10" sub which is listed in the plans (Dayton DCS 255-4) and building the box with 21 inch panels. My first question is... will the Dayton SA100 plate amp be sufficient for that speaker in this setup?

This will be my first home theatre subwoofer build. I have a 7.1 system with a Denon receiver, AR speakers and subs, etc but I just need a bit more bass. I'll be removing the front 12" down firing sub from the system and replacing it with this (leaving the rear 10" down firing sub - maybe).

I also have a background in car audio and I have to tell you... when looking at buying the sub and amp for this table tuba that side comes out and I'm tempted to go for something more like Dayton RSS 265-HO or even the Dayton UM10-22. Would I be better off with one of those and more power (maybe the Dayton SPA250 plate amp) or will things turn out just fine going with the original plan?

This is my first experience with any type of a horn subwoofer. I've heard they're becoming popular in car audio but I've been out of that world for a good 15 years or so.

Thanks,

Erick

[koturban]

If the driver fits the required specs in the plan, but is more expensive, you are wasting your money. Same goes with the amp.

[67baja]

A TT with a 100 watt amp is very loud. Much louder than you would expect if you have no experience with horns.

[Radian]

My vote would be for the Dayton SA-230. I'm simply not fond of plate amps where there's a choice involved.

[ecut1]

I came across that Dayton SA-230 in another thread. I'd love to go with it but I'm running out of room in my component cabinet. I'd have to stack the blu-ray player on top and I hate doing that. The plate amps are quite a bit cheaper also. I planned on building a box to put it in and hiding it under the couch. I just inherited a nice 4x8 sheet of 1/2 inch plywood with an oak veneer for the outer layer though. That freed up some budget so maybe I should opt for the 230.

[67baja]

Please don't use that oak veneered plywood for the TT.

[Tom Smit]

If you insist on using the veneered ply, then you'll have to route a channel in side for each panel so that the adhesive has something good to grip onto.

[Grant Bunter]

Another alternative, and I hope this is what you were thinking, is to use the oak veneer only on the outside surfaces of the cab.
Not at all if it is to be internal panels is what the giuys are trying to say...

[ecut1]

Well, some plans have changed. I went to pick up the "1/2 inch" oak plywood and it's actually 1/4 inch. So yes, I'll only be using it on the outside of the cabinet. I decided that since I'll be using that veneer on the outside I might as well just use MDF for the build.

Also, I changed plans and I'm going to run a single 8 instead of the 10. After sketching out cuts with 21 inch panels I started leaning towards an 8 with 17 inch panels. Plus the Infinity Reference 860w is only $50 shipped on Amazon right now. The specs on that sub are right within all the requirements on the plans.

I'll probably get started tomorrow and create a new thread in the build section.

[Grant Bunter]

For guaranted results, follow the plans!

Build with half inch ply and "dress" the outside with the 1/4" oak veneered if you think that will give you a nice finish.
You should have noticed that MDF is not listed in the plans.
The golden rule of these designs is to be leak free and airtight.
With PL and 1/2" ply that is achievable, but not with MDF.
MDF simply adds unneccesary weight, is toxic to work with and doesn't give a better result...

[ecut1]

In the plans it says: "You may also use MDF, but it’s not user friendly or as durable as plywood, and should only be used if you’re going to veneer the cab." Yes, I read them twice.

I've worked with MDF a lot in the past so I understand the drawbacks. The nice part about MDF is that it's perfectly straight and does not warp.

[88h88]

The cab is constructed from ½ inch plywood, braced to remain vibration-free at very high power levels. You may use either softwood plywood, like spruce or fir, or a semi-hardwood, like Baltic birch.

I ain't see no mention of MDF in there.

[OneStepBehind]

My plans say you can use MDF, are you guys working off old plans?

[ecut1]

It shows MDF in my plans...

[ketoet]

my plans also mention MDF as an ( less durable) option . i wouldn't use it for any of bills design however.
it's gonna be a very heavy sub when built with MDF but it must be ok since bill mentions it in the plans.
i haven't seen it mentioned in the others plans however.

greetz ketoet