AT 10" driver choice
Re: AT 10" driver choice
Anton, I believe that is the rig. I remember a photo of that rig beside a home-built stage with dirt at the front of the stage, and trees in the near-background. I think there was an OT12(?) at the roof on either side of the stage.
TomS
Re: AT 10" driver choice
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Re: AT 10" driver choice
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Re: AT 10" driver choice
I had forgotten about those pics. Now that I see them I remember these too. Good find!
Re: AT 10" driver choice
Seth...BINGO!
Good job! How did you find them?
Anyone notice the sandbags on top of the AT pile? They were placed there in order to keep that pile from walking.
Good job! How did you find them?
Anyone notice the sandbags on top of the AT pile? They were placed there in order to keep that pile from walking.
TomS
Re: AT 10" driver choice
I just did a google image search for "6 autotubas". The pics showed in the results, but wouldn't link with the "copy image URL" function at first. So, I just did a screenshot, crop, and reupload. But, then I inspected the images digital history a little and was able to find an image address that worked and was able to link directly to them.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Re: AT 10" driver choice
Then it seems like i will be very pleased with the 20" autotuba hehe!
Thanks for the help and cool pics!
Thanks for the help and cool pics!
SLA PRO 4X6
T60 2x20"
Labgruppen fP6400. fP2400Q. DBX Driverack PA2
TLAH
AT 20"
TRT
T60 2x20"
Labgruppen fP6400. fP2400Q. DBX Driverack PA2
TLAH
AT 20"
TRT
Re: AT 10" driver choice
Alright! I did some digging and found the thread. The first post has the details.
viewtopic.php?t=3533
viewtopic.php?t=3533
TomS
Re: AT 10" driver choice
Does anyone know the recommended Highpass filter setting and voltage limit of the Autotuba with the Dayton LS10-44 or a similar driver with more than 10mm Xmax? Cant find it in my plans.
I did go with the GZ sub and currently making progress, slowly haha.
It will be wired to 4ohm. Is 25V to much?
I did go with the GZ sub and currently making progress, slowly haha.
It will be wired to 4ohm. Is 25V to much?
SLA PRO 4X6
T60 2x20"
Labgruppen fP6400. fP2400Q. DBX Driverack PA2
TLAH
AT 20"
TRT
T60 2x20"
Labgruppen fP6400. fP2400Q. DBX Driverack PA2
TLAH
AT 20"
TRT
- Bill Fitzmaurice
- Site Admin
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Re: AT 10" driver choice
It's not in the plans because auto sound rigs don't have limiters. 28v high passed at 40Hz would be safe.
Re: AT 10" driver choice
Thank you for reply.
Loctite will be used
And those nuts have PL before i punched them into place.
It takes a long time to cure and expand at 8°C
Its -19°C outside and my garage that is a old stable is not very isolated
Loctite will be used
And those nuts have PL before i punched them into place.
It takes a long time to cure and expand at 8°C
Its -19°C outside and my garage that is a old stable is not very isolated
SLA PRO 4X6
T60 2x20"
Labgruppen fP6400. fP2400Q. DBX Driverack PA2
TLAH
AT 20"
TRT
T60 2x20"
Labgruppen fP6400. fP2400Q. DBX Driverack PA2
TLAH
AT 20"
TRT
Re: AT 10" driver choice
That's looking good Linus
Keep in mind that if you ever need to replace the driver, the use of loctite could cause the inserts to spin/strip in the wood... which would be a HUGE headache. If it were me, I'd use screws and screw retention blocks (as per the plans) instead of nut inserts an bolts. And if I did use inserts and bolts, I'd use lock washers and forego any loctite... even the purple loctite 222.
Also, PL cures with moisture/humidity. If it's taking longer than you want to cure, you can dab the area with a moistened paper towel to speed things up a bit.
As far as the voltage and limits go... For reference, I have run my 2x8 (parallel wired) TAT very hard, unlimited and over powered without failure. It has bottomed out the voice coil on the backing plate a few times, so there's obviously value in limiting voltage and/or high-passing bottom frequencies. But, again, no failures. I never measured, but the amp I was using in that system should have been very capable of supplying at least 45 volts. The amp killed a few alternators, but never the inexpensive MCM drivers.
I built a 2x8 (parallel wired) TruckTuba and powered that one with a 28v (IIRC) signal without a high-pass filter and performance measure in car was fairly flat all the way down to 20Hz (and below). Plenty loud for most listeners too.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Re: AT 10" driver choice
Thanks for the tip Seth! Could save me that headache.Seth wrote: ↑Mon Feb 15, 2021 11:49 amThat's looking good Linus
Keep in mind that if you ever need to replace the driver, the use of loctite could cause the inserts to spin/strip in the wood... which would be a HUGE headache. If it were me, I'd use screws and screw retention blocks (as per the plans) instead of nut inserts an bolts. And if I did use inserts and bolts, I'd use lock washers and forego any loctite... even the purple loctite 222.
Also, PL cures with moisture/humidity. If it's taking longer than you want to cure, you can dab the area with a moistened paper towel to speed things up a bit.
As far as the voltage and limits go... For reference, I have run my 2x8 (parallel wired) TAT very hard, unlimited and over powered without failure. It has bottomed out the voice coil on the backing plate a few times, so there's obviously value in limiting voltage and/or high-passing bottom frequencies. But, again, no failures. I never measured, but the amp I was using in that system should have been very capable of supplying at least 45 volts. The amp killed a few alternators, but never the inexpensive MCM drivers.
I built a 2x8 (parallel wired) TruckTuba and powered that one with a 28v (IIRC) signal without a high-pass filter and performance measure in car was fairly flat all the way down to 20Hz (and below). Plenty loud for most listeners too.
I will go with the lock washer, and maybe check bolts after a few hours of use to be sure it is secured and tight.
Yeah i use a glass of water and brush the areas that will be joined together, otherwise it wont cure at all now, very dry inside my garage to!
Haha oh wow! Those MCM seem to be good quality then! To bad they are not avaliable in EU, maybe for order but i think that would be very expensive.
Cool then i guess that even with like 12db 35-40hz HP it will go a bit deeper when it is in the car? i want to feel that 30hz
SLA PRO 4X6
T60 2x20"
Labgruppen fP6400. fP2400Q. DBX Driverack PA2
TLAH
AT 20"
TRT
T60 2x20"
Labgruppen fP6400. fP2400Q. DBX Driverack PA2
TLAH
AT 20"
TRT
Re: AT 10" driver choice
If you haven't already, you may consider breaking the driver in while it's mounted to that baffle so that you can verify that the surround isn't going to come into contact with the baffle at higher excursions. If it does make contact with the baffle, you'll likely be able to round over or bevel the edge from the driver side to make clearance.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Re: AT 10" driver choice
I have, and it doesnt hit anything, after i sanded it down slightly heheSeth wrote: ↑Mon Feb 15, 2021 2:42 pm 20210213_163556.jpg
If you haven't already, you may consider breaking the driver in while it's mounted to that baffle so that you can verify that the surround isn't going to come into contact with the baffle at higher excursions. If it does make contact with the baffle, you'll likely be able to round over or bevel the edge from the driver side to make clearance.
I ran a 25hz test tone with up to about 12V max, it seem to hit its claimed Xmax of 13mm with around 9-10V in free air, no noise or sound what so ever from it!
With 12V 25hz it seems to exceed it, crazy excursion, i would estimate the cone travel to be around 35mm p-p at those levels. Still only minor blowing noise from the coil vent
Would be intresting to put the driver in a sealed cab with the same volume as the horn, just to see at what levels it start to be sketchy
But then to me it feels like thats not going to provide correct information or data for its use, i also guess that the horn itself makes some kind of "back pressure" so the cone doesnt move as much, depending on the frequenzy input and horn lenght...?
SLA PRO 4X6
T60 2x20"
Labgruppen fP6400. fP2400Q. DBX Driverack PA2
TLAH
AT 20"
TRT
T60 2x20"
Labgruppen fP6400. fP2400Q. DBX Driverack PA2
TLAH
AT 20"
TRT