truck tuba build

For livingroom sound better than in a theatre.
Message
Author
himhimself
Posts: 599
Joined: Fri Nov 13, 2015 9:34 pm
Location: Vancouver BC & Bloomington IN

truck tuba build

#1 Post by himhimself »

Been wanting to make a truck tuba for a while, so decided this would be the weekend to start. Had a bunch of scrap 1/2" and 7'16" BB, so other than the driver (MCM) this will basically be a freebie. Cut the 24x36 sides and ripped all the inner panels down to 5 1/2", then got that all pinned and glued yesterday. Cut out the driver hole today with a jigsaw, half-rounded it over with my trim router, and then cut the driver mounting plate using my homemade circle jig with the router. Turned out perfect. I made a little mod - I cut and glued 8 backing blocks on the driver ring instead of 6, and then used two leftover pieces from the inner panelsstrips for the front to back supports on either side of the driver. That way they're identical in height and no worries of splitting them when screwing in the driver fasteners. Back panel is PL'd in place and curing now with 24g pins keeping it square and 4 car batteries holding it down tight. Was about a 1/4" to wide for my clamps to fit- grrr. That's going to be it for this weekend. Truck is still in the shop anyway. Any tips on the least expensive way to power it up off the sub out from the head? How much juice will I really need?
2xT30 (20", 3012LF)
2xT30 (21", 3012LF)
4xOtop J-array (Beta12, melded/straight piezos)
Truck Tuba (MCM)
Next up: 2xJack12 or family of table tubas

Bruce Weldy
Posts: 8301
Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
Location: New Braunfels, TX

Re: truck tuba build

#2 Post by Bruce Weldy »

Nice story.....but it's all just fantasy until we see pictures.



:mrgreen:

6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210


"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."

User avatar
Seth
Posts: 2731
Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 8:06 pm
Location: Sacramento, California, USA
Contact:

Re: truck tuba build

#3 Post by Seth »

himhimself wrote: Sun Sep 27, 2020 3:32 pm How much juice will I really need?
25 volts is all you'll need... 150 watts @ 4 ohms.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded

Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421

User avatar
Seth
Posts: 2731
Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 8:06 pm
Location: Sacramento, California, USA
Contact:

Re: truck tuba build

#4 Post by Seth »

This amp would suit well. It's a newer name on the market and they're one of the few that are exceeding their advertised rated power output in independent 3rd party testing. At $100, you could certainly put something that costs less in there and likely be completely satisfied too. Skar Audio RP-350.1D Monoblock Class D. I have not used this amp and can't vouch for it personally, but given what I've read and seen... they seem to be a decent product at a decent price point.

If haven't already put your mids and highs on amplifiers and you're considering doing so in the future, I have used the Soundstream PN5.640D Picasso Nano 5-Channel Class D Amplifier with good success. It's 5 channels in a package about 3/4 the size of a carton of cigarettes. Easily fits under most seats or any other handy spot. I never did check the output voltage of the sub channel, but it put out some decent spl from the 8" Bazooka it was powering.

If you go the route of amplifying the full system, I HIGHLY recommend the Dayton Audio DSP-408 4x8 DSP Digital Signal Processor. For $160, it's the best tuning solution I've ever used in car audio. I absolutely love what it can do in a system.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded

Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421

himhimself
Posts: 599
Joined: Fri Nov 13, 2015 9:34 pm
Location: Vancouver BC & Bloomington IN

Re: truck tuba build

#5 Post by himhimself »

Thanks Seth. And a pic for you Bruce, oh ye of little faith... :D
Attachments
image.jpg
2xT30 (20", 3012LF)
2xT30 (21", 3012LF)
4xOtop J-array (Beta12, melded/straight piezos)
Truck Tuba (MCM)
Next up: 2xJack12 or family of table tubas

jimbo7
Posts: 849
Joined: Fri Dec 28, 2012 10:45 am
Location: St. Louis

Re: truck tuba build

#6 Post by jimbo7 »

Hey Seth, how does the Dayton dsp compare to MiniDSP?
BFM builds:
XF212
T24 BP102 24"
2x SLA's 6-5" mids, 9- gt-302's
2x AT 14" MCM 55-2421
TrT 5" MCM 55-2421
AT 18" JBL GTO804
2x OT12 flat array
2x SLA Pro 2-Alpha 6's 2-Goldwoods
2x T39 24" 3012lf
Simplex 10 BP102

User avatar
Seth
Posts: 2731
Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 8:06 pm
Location: Sacramento, California, USA
Contact:

Re: truck tuba build

#7 Post by Seth »

jimbo7 wrote: Mon Sep 28, 2020 6:40 pm Hey Seth, how does the Dayton dsp compare to MiniDSP?
I've never used MiniDSP, although it's been on my radar for quite some time. I just did a quick search to remind me a little about it. Off the bat, it seems to be a 2 input, 4 output unit. Stereo in, high/low out. The Dayton unit has 4 inputs and 8 outputs, so you can wire in front and rear inputs and have enough outputs for tweeters and mids up front, sculpted full range in the rear, and subwoofer outputs... or tweet, mid, low up front and a sub.

When I wired mine up, I only used one stereo pair for inputs and did tweets and mids up front, plus the sub, and no rear speakers,. So I had one pair of inputs and one pair of outputs unused. I decided to maximize on the flexibility and control the unused inputs/outputs had by routing the main inputs through the dsp and out the unused outputs, then hardwired that output to the unused input and routed that to the 6 outputs the system needed.

In the end, I didn't use any of the additional DSP functionality routing it that way gave me. It gives you 10 bands of fully adjustable parametric EQ, as well as a high and low pass filter, and delay for each output. I figured I'd EQ each out flat on the individual outs then "tune the system to taste" with the first run through the unit. I just didn't need to go that far. There was more adjustability than I needed without needing the "total system EQ" that I thought I was so clever about. I never got around to fiddling with the delay, but I will next time I do a car system.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded

Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421

himhimself
Posts: 599
Joined: Fri Nov 13, 2015 9:34 pm
Location: Vancouver BC & Bloomington IN

Re: truck tuba build

#8 Post by himhimself »

Rounded over the edges, cut a jack recess, quick sand, latex black, and applied duratex. Don’t think I’ll do much more finishing since it will ultimately be buried in the back of the excursion...which is still in the shop. Oh well, still need to pick out a head unit and sub amp anyway and get some binding posts. Maybe next weekend...
Attachments
image.jpg
2xT30 (20", 3012LF)
2xT30 (21", 3012LF)
4xOtop J-array (Beta12, melded/straight piezos)
Truck Tuba (MCM)
Next up: 2xJack12 or family of table tubas

User avatar
Tom Smit
Posts: 7457
Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2008 1:24 pm
Location: Sarnia, Ont. Canada

Re: truck tuba build

#9 Post by Tom Smit »

himhimself wrote: Sat Oct 03, 2020 12:53 pm Rounded over the edges, cut a jack recess, quick sand, latex black, and applied duratex. Don’t think I’ll do much more finishing since it will ultimately be buried in the back of the excursion...which is still in the shop. Oh well, still need to pick out a head unit and sub amp anyway and get some binding posts. Maybe next weekend...
Isn't that weird?! The photo is sideways here (for me), and yet, if I right-click and "open in new tab" the photo is in the correct orientation.
Looking good, that cab!
TomS

himhimself
Posts: 599
Joined: Fri Nov 13, 2015 9:34 pm
Location: Vancouver BC & Bloomington IN

Re: truck tuba build

#10 Post by himhimself »

Baby steps. Got the recessed plate with banana jack glued in and made a grill for the mouth with some expanded metal and grill cloth glued to the back side. Still not ready with the stereo for the truck so may give to a friend to try out and get his feedback comparing it to his direct radiator sub...
Attachments
image.jpg
image.jpg
2xT30 (20", 3012LF)
2xT30 (21", 3012LF)
4xOtop J-array (Beta12, melded/straight piezos)
Truck Tuba (MCM)
Next up: 2xJack12 or family of table tubas

himhimself
Posts: 599
Joined: Fri Nov 13, 2015 9:34 pm
Location: Vancouver BC & Bloomington IN

Re: truck tuba build

#11 Post by himhimself »

Almost there...
Attachments
image.jpg
2xT30 (20", 3012LF)
2xT30 (21", 3012LF)
4xOtop J-array (Beta12, melded/straight piezos)
Truck Tuba (MCM)
Next up: 2xJack12 or family of table tubas

User avatar
Seth
Posts: 2731
Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 8:06 pm
Location: Sacramento, California, USA
Contact:

Re: truck tuba build

#12 Post by Seth »

It's looking really good :thumbsup: Absolutely stick it in your buddies vehicle for a test!

What adhesive did you use to glue the cloth to the grill? Yours came out way nicer than the results I achieved.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded

Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421

himhimself
Posts: 599
Joined: Fri Nov 13, 2015 9:34 pm
Location: Vancouver BC & Bloomington IN

Re: truck tuba build

#13 Post by himhimself »

Thanks, Seth. I just used some Loctite general purpose spray adhesive that was leftover from one of the kid's school projects, I think. I cut the cloth a bit bigger than the grill and pinned it with just a little tension to a piece of cardboard. Then I sprayed the grill and placed it on the cloth. After it dried, I used some long strips of cardboard to mask off the cloth so I could spray about a 1.5" line directly on the back side along the edges, let it get tacky, and then folded it over on itself to give it a finished edge and hopefully a little more thickness to prevent rattles. Also, before put screws through it, I soaked the cloth at the attachment spots with cheap superglue to keep the fabric from doing stupid stuff when the screws went in. Worked pretty well.
2xT30 (20", 3012LF)
2xT30 (21", 3012LF)
4xOtop J-array (Beta12, melded/straight piezos)
Truck Tuba (MCM)
Next up: 2xJack12 or family of table tubas

User avatar
Seth
Posts: 2731
Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 8:06 pm
Location: Sacramento, California, USA
Contact:

Re: truck tuba build

#14 Post by Seth »

himhimself wrote: Sat Oct 10, 2020 2:50 pm Thanks, Seth. I just used some Loctite general purpose spray adhesive that was leftover from one of the kid's school projects, I think. I cut the cloth a bit bigger than the grill and pinned it with just a little tension to a piece of cardboard. Then I sprayed the grill and placed it on the cloth. After it dried, I used some long strips of cardboard to mask off the cloth so I could spray about a 1.5" line directly on the back side along the edges, let it get tacky, and then folded it over on itself to give it a finished edge and hopefully a little more thickness to prevent rattles. Also, before put screws through it, I soaked the cloth at the attachment spots with cheap superglue to keep the fabric from doing stupid stuff when the screws went in. Worked pretty well.
Hmm... maybe I should try a different grade spray glue. Not sure what I have, but it comes out more like a spiderweb than an aerosol spray. When I sprayed the metal I wanted to stick the foam (in my case) to, it was ugly. Ended up having to put the foam in front of the metal grill to hide the mess.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded

Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421

himhimself
Posts: 599
Joined: Fri Nov 13, 2015 9:34 pm
Location: Vancouver BC & Bloomington IN

Re: truck tuba build

#15 Post by himhimself »

Maybe it's the nozzle. Try pulling it off and soaking in paint thinner or mineral spirits and see if that helps. Any of the spray adhesives should spray fairly light and even.
2xT30 (20", 3012LF)
2xT30 (21", 3012LF)
4xOtop J-array (Beta12, melded/straight piezos)
Truck Tuba (MCM)
Next up: 2xJack12 or family of table tubas

Post Reply