BillFitzmaurice.info

byacey wrote:

tuna wrote:So is the PA2 a complete replacement for the DEQ/DCX combo? I dont want to spend the money but Im having some problems with one of the inputs/outputs on my DEQ box that is putting a static sound into the signal path. it comes and goes, grows louder and then disappears with a loud pop. Not sure what causes it. But it only comes out in the left channel and in the booth monitors which gets a summed left and right input. My right channel is perfectly clear with no static. Its either send my box in for a repair bill or just cut my losses and replace all the equipment with what looks to be a definite step up in functionality. Im liking the live autoEQ functionality.

You have the early stages of Behringer Syndrome, which if allowed to progress will drain you financially and emotionally. It is like a cancer that lurks among healthy gear. The only Rx is to have it surgically removed and undergo a DBX transplant. Not the news you wanted to hear, but the blunt truth.

I have to say that the DEQ/DCX combo has worked excellently for awhile for me now. My system sounds better than ever when everything is working properly. But as of late... not so much. Just this hiss on one channel. Now that being said, I have just as much into my Behringer equipment as I would buying a Driverack PA2. Do I lose anything jumping to the PA2 from the DEQ/DCX combo?

tuna wrote:I have to say that the DEQ/DCX combo has worked excellently for awhile for me now. My system sounds better than ever when everything is working properly. But as of late... not so much. Just this hiss on one channel. Now that being said, I have just as much into my Behringer equipment as I would buying a Driverack PA2. Do I lose anything jumping to the PA2 from the DEQ/DCX combo?

Before you pull the gear, have you checked all the other components? Cables? Swap channels and see if the problem moves, etc.

Maybe check the solder joints on the Behringer input XLR connectors. If pin 2 or 3 is intermittent, it could display the symptoms you describe.

I first thought it was my speaker. I ended up taking my speaker over to the manufacturer and they said there were no issues with it. And didnt even charge me. I then swapped out several different XLR cables even across different brands/qualities. Same issues. Tried different power outlets on different circuits, same issue. Finally switched outputs between my left and right speakers and the issue swapped. Went to the monitor, which has a summed A+B input, and the issue was there. When I change it to A only the hiss is there and when I switch over to B its gone. I figured it was a bigger issue than just soldering a connection. I had read about issues with ribbon cables and opened mine up and taped the ribbon cables down among other things. Seemed to work for awhile but the issue has crept back. I will open it back up and look a little bit closer to see if I see anything.

I have another show coming up so just ordered another unit. I will see if I can get mine fixed. If so... return for more/other equipment.
Two more 3015LFs for another Tuba 36 sounds about right!

Try using the digital in to see if it happens there? If it does, you have a problem deep within the unit .. if it's silent, then it's the input stage.

To add a layer of intrigue... I bought myself a new DEQ box. Ended up not being the problem at all. Likely culprit is now the DCX box. Behringer syndrome indeed. Swapped out all XLR with cables from friends, went box by box and that is what came up having the issues. Looks like outputs 1 and 6 on my DCX box are fried or at least causing issues. But 2 3 4 and 5 all work flawlessly. Just enough for subwoofer, 2 house mains, and a booth monitor. Weird. No time to check what the problem is so going with what I got and crossing my fingers it doesnt F up during a performance but bumped music literally all day saturday and no reoccurance. On one hand system is tuned and ready to go for about ~10 hours of raving friday night. On the other hand I realize that one piece of my setup is borderline not good . Like I said.... crossing my fingers. Going to return the DEQ and trade it for 1 and buy 1(for a total of 2) 3015LFs and bring my BFM subwoofer count up to two boxes.(I have another one built and ready to fill with drivers. Just didnt have the $500 yet . Hoping my DCX holds out for another year and then I think I will make the jump to this PA2. It looks like a great piece of kit that will replace all of my Behringer stuff down into a single rack unit and all with Ipad control. Fuck yeah.

This is a bit off-topic according to the flow here - but it is about the DBX PA2

Any tips on how to set parameters for BFM speakers cabs in the 'commonly-used system' menus?

HugoMack wrote: Any tips on how to set parameters for BFM speakers cabs in the 'commonly-used system' menus?

You don't. Build a custom setting with your own crossover points, and limiting. Don't use the setup wizard for balancing the system, only the auto EQ.

OK.

I'm going to have two modes: with just 2 Jack 12 Lites (Kappalite 3012HOs), and with the additional of 2 T39's (24" with Lab 12's). Any suggestions as to the settings? I'm using the exact cross-overs from Bill's instructions.

Sorry to be asking, but I've never used a loudspeaker management system before. I've also been wondering about when using the subs, whether there's a need to add a very slight delay to the tops - especially if the subs are being reflected off a wall or corner.

HugoMack wrote:OK.

I'm going to have two modes: with just 2 Jack 12 Lites (Kappalite 3012HOs), and with the additional of 2 T39's (24" with Lab 12's). Any suggestions as to the settings? I'm using the exact cross-overs from Bill's instructions.

The crossovers from the plans have nothing to do with using your PA2. It is for crossing over between the subs and tops. The Jacks will go a little lower than OT12s so I'd start by highpassing them at 110. I'd low pass the subs at 100 and high pass 'em at 47-50. Use LR 24db/octave for all the crossover points.

For running the Jacks by themselves - it kinda' depends on what you are putting through them. Disco - I'd high pass 'em at 45 and be really be careful with the volume. For live music, if there is bass and kick - I'd high pass 'em at 55 or so to keep from blowing 'em.

Sorry to be asking, but I've never used a loudspeaker management system before. I've also been wondering about when using the subs, whether there's a need to add a very slight delay to the tops - especially if the subs are being reflected off a wall or corner.

You can delay them by the length of the horn path....7 feet. It doesn't make a lot of difference at those frequencies.....but why not...you've got the tool.

Thanks Bruce - that's great!! It's amazing just to be able to do these things!

HugoMack wrote:Thanks Bruce - that's great!! It's amazing just to be able to do these things!

Yep, beats the hell out of the knobs on the old crossovers.

I picked up a DCX2496 used on Ebay a couple years ago. A few weeks after having it I noticed some hissy and snap-crackle sounds in some of the outputs ( 2 out of the 6) I read on-line about other people's problems and decided to replace the ribbon cable. Unfortunately in my unit the ribbon cables was pressed into a permanent connector on the mother board but detachable on the daughter (output) board. I very carefully removed both the cable AND connector pins on the mother board as well as the connector pins on the daughter board, replacing them with gold plated dual row headers and a new ribbon cable. It's been absolutely silent ever since. I would give this a try before spending a few hundred more an a Drive Rack, but it does takes some delicate soldering skills and good de-soldering braid.

Thanks Guys.

Measuring amp output by voltage is a new skill (for me). I read about setting limits using voltage (50 or so?). How do you work out what the voltage limits should be for these cabs - or the speakers? Jack 12 Lite with Kappalite 3012HOs and Lab 12's in the T39s?