How to set up a DCX 2496.

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Grant Bunter
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How to set up a DCX 2496.

#1 Post by Grant Bunter » Thu Nov 14, 2013 3:18 pm

This question seems to get asked a lot.
What do you think, if I write out a concise step by step procedure which is more friendly than using the manual?
Built:
DR 250: x 2 (melded array) with March 2012 plans. 2 more under way with CD horn
T39's: 4 x 20" BP102 , 2 x 28" 3012lf.
WH8: x 3 with melded array.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...

David Raehn
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Location: Colonial Beach VA

Re: How to set up a DCX 2496.

#2 Post by David Raehn » Thu Nov 14, 2013 5:26 pm

I think it's a great idea. It probably won't take that long and a lot of us would benefit. Do you think you would add a section on setting up titans in a cardioid pattern? Just kidding.

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Bas Gooiker
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Re: How to set up a DCX 2496.

#3 Post by Bas Gooiker » Thu Nov 14, 2013 5:31 pm

sounds like a plan Grant!
Life is just a game, don't take it to seriously!

sine143
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Re: How to set up a DCX 2496.

#4 Post by sine143 » Thu Nov 14, 2013 6:51 pm

go for it man!
Built:
2x Tuba 30s delta12lf loaded (gone)
4x Otop12 d2512 loaded
8x t48s (18, 18, 24, 24, 30, 30) 3015lf loaded
2x AT (1 mcm, 1 gto 804)
2x SLA Pro (dayton pa6, 6 goldwood piezo loaded)
1x bastard XF208

2x OT212 (delta pro 450a loaded, eminence psd)

Grant Bunter
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Re: How to set up a DCX 2496.

#5 Post by Grant Bunter » Thu Nov 14, 2013 11:11 pm

Ok, here we go.

Donny has done a video on this as well, for those that a visual learners rather than readers:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LIZg_Iwd ... H4lNzsAM5Q

Hope you don't mind Donny.

You can find the Behringer software to do this setup with your computer.
Sure, once you download the programme, install it, and connect your DCX 2496 with a USB to serial cable (the serial end goes to the RS232 port on the DCX). You will have to install the USB to Serial driver(s) as well, so IMO, it's faster to just turn it on and get it done :)

Ok, you've pulled it out of the box, unpacked it, and plugged it in to power. You can do just this to set it up (without hooking up any other cables or signal leads), provided you have decided how you are going to run your system.

If you haven't decided how to run your system yet, decide now.
Most people run either mono, or stereo.

Turn your unit on with the power button.
The unit will do a warm up and a screen will show.
Red lights on every input and output stage will be lit (A,B,C and 1,2,3,4,5,6). This is a default turn on state for all new units. It means all channels are muted.

Step 1.
Push "Recall"
If you are only using internal memory, you will see INT to the right of Recall NR highlighted.
Press PARAM -> to move to the presets, use the large dial to scroll up or down to #21 for Mono, or #4 for a simple stereo layout.
Select whichever, press OK.

I will break this into 2 sections from here on in.
MONO
STEREO
Last edited by Grant Bunter on Fri Nov 15, 2013 1:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
Built:
DR 250: x 2 (melded array) with March 2012 plans. 2 more under way with CD horn
T39's: 4 x 20" BP102 , 2 x 28" 3012lf.
WH8: x 3 with melded array.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...

Grant Bunter
Posts: 6052
Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:12 am
Location: Ilfracombe Queensland Australia
Contact:

Re: How to set up a DCX 2496.

#6 Post by Grant Bunter » Thu Nov 14, 2013 11:25 pm

MONO
So you selected #21.

The screen now shows you a routing path, with input A.
This means you have to plug in your lead from your mixer or whatever to Channel A.
Press MUTE, then the button at the bottom of Channel A, as well as buttons 1 and 2, then press MUTE again. The buttons you have pressed are now no longer red.

Press The Channel A button, it will turn green. Make sure gain reads 0dB.
Now press PAGE ->
This now shows you the input delay page. Make sure it is OFF. Press PAGE -> again, make sure EQ is OFF, then PAGE -> for Dynamic EQ FILTER (OFF) again for DYNAMIC EQ level (OFF) and once more to return to that first screen. Press Button A again, the green light is now out.

If any of these settings are not OFF (Because you bought a preloved unit) simply turn the large dial until OFF shows.

This is a very simple input setup example, if you want to delay and all that kinda stuff, you probably already know how to use this unit, or can work it out :)
Built:
DR 250: x 2 (melded array) with March 2012 plans. 2 more under way with CD horn
T39's: 4 x 20" BP102 , 2 x 28" 3012lf.
WH8: x 3 with melded array.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...

Grant Bunter
Posts: 6052
Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:12 am
Location: Ilfracombe Queensland Australia
Contact:

Re: How to set up a DCX 2496.

#7 Post by Grant Bunter » Fri Nov 15, 2013 12:30 am

MONO

The Output Channels (1,2,3,4,5,6)
I said up above, unmute Channel 1 and 2. So that's done.

Press the Channel 1 button, it now shows a green light.

Let's say we are making this the Subwoofer output channel (so your signal lead to your subwoofer amp goes from this channel). Press PARAM -> twice.
"Out 1 name" is now highlighted. If it's not there already, turn the large dial until SUBWOOFER is highlighted.

Now press PAGE->

This page is the OUT 1 X-OVER page.
Press PARAM -> until TYPE in the upper left hand corner is highlighted (This may be one press with a new unit, or more if preloved).

This lets you select your HIGHPASS filter type.
You need to Select, at a minimum, L-R24 or BUT24, but you can opt to go to L-R48 or BUT48, by turning the large dial.

Press PARAM-> again
This should highlight FREQ on the left hand side of the screen.
This sets your HIGHPASS cutoff frequency.
The value of this depends on how many cabs you are running and what model you built.
The specified values are IN YOUR PLANS under "protecting your drivers".
For the purpose of this exercise I will say I am using 2 x T39's, so I adjust the value to 45Hz with the large dial.

Press PARAM-> again. This highlights TYPE on the upper right corner of the screen, and selects your LOWPASS filter. Select your filter type again
(There is some serious discussion about what and where this value should be, but to keep it simple for the time being, select the same filter you used for your HIGHPASS setting).

Press PARAM-> again to set your LOWPASS frequency. See just above, but for simplicity, let's say you are selecting a crossover point of 90Hz. Change to that value with the large dial.

At the bottom right of the screen you should see X-OVER ADJUST MODE and "link" should be highlighted. This means channels 1, 3, and 5 have all been altered to the same setting as output channel 1. More on that later when I do a few bits and bobs on more advanced use.

Press PAGE-> have it OFF
ditto
ditto
Press PAGE-> again. You are at one of the major reasons for buying this unit. The "brick wall" LIMITER page.
Turn the large dial until ON is highlighted next to Limiter.
Press PARAM-> to get the THRESH
If the setting here is not 0dB, turn the large dial clockwise until it is.

To set the limiter value, you need your entire system fully set up (well at least the sub part of it), running a 60hz sine wave through it to your sub amp without any cabs connected. So leave the value as 0dB for the time being. If you don't know how to get the maximum output in volts from your amp, so you know how to adjust this setting, please ask. The amount of limiting required will vary depending on amp brand/model/type, and the driver you selected for your sub build. The limited voltage for your driver is in the plans.

Just remember where this setting is.

PS leave REL at 407ms

Press PAGE-> make sure polarity is set at NORMAL. If for some reason you find you're "out of phase" at your crossover point between subs and tops, you should explore all wiring to make sure that is not the reason for the out of phase first, rather than adjust it here straight up.
You'll only discover this when your system is fully set up and running.

Press PAGE-> again. the delay page can be OFF for this simple setup example.
One more press of PAGE-> takes you to the initial screen
Press Channel 1 button and it's green light should be out.
Last edited by Grant Bunter on Fri Nov 15, 2013 1:04 am, edited 1 time in total.
Built:
DR 250: x 2 (melded array) with March 2012 plans. 2 more under way with CD horn
T39's: 4 x 20" BP102 , 2 x 28" 3012lf.
WH8: x 3 with melded array.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...

Grant Bunter
Posts: 6052
Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:12 am
Location: Ilfracombe Queensland Australia
Contact:

Re: How to set up a DCX 2496.

#8 Post by Grant Bunter » Fri Nov 15, 2013 12:47 am

MONO.

Press the Channel 2 button, it's light is now green.
Let's say this will be your "tops" output channel, so your signal lead goes from this channel to your tops amp.

Press PARAM-> twice to highlight the OUT2 NAME. Turn the large dial until you find HI-MID
Press PAGE->
It's the same method here as for channel 1, so left upper corner is filter type, then left lower is crossover point (actually it's a HIGHPASS) then right upper is (LOWPASS) filter type, then FREQ.
I leave it at 20kHz but a lot of people over 25 can't hear above 16 kHz, so pick your preferred setting.

All the other settings can be the same as channel 1, except you have the option to limit your tops voltage as well. Bill says you should if you have that option and you do, so ask knowledgeable people for a figure in volts for your cabs.

Press the Channel 2 button again. No lights now (apart from the red muted channels you didn't unmute in the first place).

That's your pre set up of the DCX done for mono.


You should save this setting.
To do so, Press STORE, PARAM->, select store position, OK
You will be asked if you want to overwrite the preset if you store it to where you accessed it in the first place. Press OK, then you should get an option to rename it.
I made mine MONO45Hz as an example.
Last edited by Grant Bunter on Fri Nov 15, 2013 2:54 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Built:
DR 250: x 2 (melded array) with March 2012 plans. 2 more under way with CD horn
T39's: 4 x 20" BP102 , 2 x 28" 3012lf.
WH8: x 3 with melded array.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...

Grant Bunter
Posts: 6052
Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:12 am
Location: Ilfracombe Queensland Australia
Contact:

Re: How to set up a DCX 2496.

#9 Post by Grant Bunter » Fri Nov 15, 2013 12:54 am

Let's say you have 4 cabs (eg T39) and want to HIGHPASS your subs at (eg)40Hz when you use all 4 cabs.
Don't change your HP in the channel one setting all the time.
Open the one you just created/saved, change the HP to 40 on channel 1, press channel 1.
Hit STORE (as above) etc and save it to another preset channel, yes to overwrite etc.
I called mine MONO40Hz.

I have 2 DCX's for A and B setups.
One (the older one) recalls the last used setting automatically on power up.
The newer one shows all channels muted on power up every time.
Hit RECALL, find your saved setting and OK. Off and running...

Stereo to follow later.
Last edited by Grant Bunter on Sat Jan 04, 2014 12:08 am, edited 1 time in total.
Built:
DR 250: x 2 (melded array) with March 2012 plans. 2 more under way with CD horn
T39's: 4 x 20" BP102 , 2 x 28" 3012lf.
WH8: x 3 with melded array.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...

frpcraig
Posts: 228
Joined: Tue Aug 20, 2013 11:01 am

Re: How to set up a DCX 2496.

#10 Post by frpcraig » Fri Nov 15, 2013 7:37 am

Grant, that's a BIG help,
Thanks,

Grant Bunter
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Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:12 am
Location: Ilfracombe Queensland Australia
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Re: How to set up a DCX 2496.

#11 Post by Grant Bunter » Fri Nov 15, 2013 3:04 pm

frpcraig wrote:Grant, that's a BIG help,
Thanks,
No worries :wink:


Please remember, this is a simple set up guide. You might think something like "err, one sub output channel?" I can run 4 sub cabs off that one channel. And if I used a 2 ohm stable amp I could make that 8 subs if I wanted to stretch my amp to the bleeding edge.

Same again for tops.

If you are using one amp for tops and subs, you can run your system with the two outputs.
Built:
DR 250: x 2 (melded array) with March 2012 plans. 2 more under way with CD horn
T39's: 4 x 20" BP102 , 2 x 28" 3012lf.
WH8: x 3 with melded array.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...

Grant Bunter
Posts: 6052
Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:12 am
Location: Ilfracombe Queensland Australia
Contact:

Re: How to set up a DCX 2496.

#12 Post by Grant Bunter » Fri Nov 15, 2013 3:23 pm

STEREO

RECALL, PARAM->, #4, OK.

Your screen shows you the routing path again.
You see A and B inputs have lines on them.
A SUM path is also seen, going to outputs channel #3 and #4.
SUM is inputs A and B combined, which is great because this gives you a mono sub cab output.
Even though you are electing to run stereo, you only need mono subs.

To set up, signal leads go from (eg) Left channel output from your mixer/DJ player etc to input A, Right channel goes to input B. This is in keeping with the original preset output settings as well.
If the Input or output channels have red lights:
MUTE, (Press red lit buttons), MUTE. At a minimum you need to unmute A,B and 1,2,3.

Much the same as the MONO setup here on the input side.
Press Channel A button, which will now show a solid green light.
When you do this, the Channel B button will blink green, this is normal.

Check that Channel A input gain is at OdB and each page after that is OFF.
Likewise for Channel B.
The blinking green light will switch to channel A, again, this is normal.

Input done
Built:
DR 250: x 2 (melded array) with March 2012 plans. 2 more under way with CD horn
T39's: 4 x 20" BP102 , 2 x 28" 3012lf.
WH8: x 3 with melded array.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...

Grant Bunter
Posts: 6052
Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:12 am
Location: Ilfracombe Queensland Australia
Contact:

Re: How to set up a DCX 2496.

#13 Post by Grant Bunter » Fri Nov 15, 2013 3:37 pm

STEREO

OUTPUTS side:

Press Channel 1 button, green light shows.
Check it's output is at 0db, if not press PARAM -> to change it.
You will notice this Channel is labelled LEFT HI-MID.
Don't reinvent the wheel, leave it like that.
No surprises, Channel 1's output lead is to be hooked up to your LEFT tops box amp input.

Press PAGE->
It's the same method here as for channel 1 (under MONO), so left upper corner is filter type, then left lower is crossover point (actually it's a HIGHPASS) then right upper is (LOWPASS) filter type, then FREQ.
I leave it at 20kHz but a lot of people over 25 can't hear above 16 kHz, so pick your preferred setting.

You have the option to limit your tops voltage as well (on the LIMITER page). Bill says you should if you have that option and you do, so ask knowledgeable people for a figure in volts for your cabs.
Scroll through the pages an adjust as described in the MONO section.

Press the Channel 1 button again. No lights now (apart from the red muted channels you didn't unmute in the first place).

Now repeat the above for Channel 2. It's label is RIGHT HI-MID already. So your output signal lead goes to your Right tops amp input.

Set Channel 2 up in an identical fashion to channel 1.
Press Channel 2 button.
Built:
DR 250: x 2 (melded array) with March 2012 plans. 2 more under way with CD horn
T39's: 4 x 20" BP102 , 2 x 28" 3012lf.
WH8: x 3 with melded array.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...

Grant Bunter
Posts: 6052
Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:12 am
Location: Ilfracombe Queensland Australia
Contact:

Re: How to set up a DCX 2496.

#14 Post by Grant Bunter » Fri Nov 15, 2013 3:51 pm

STEREO
Press Button 3, green light comes on.
You will notice it is already labelled SUBWOOFER, and that it's input source is SUM.
You want this.
If the OUTPUT GAIN isn't 0dB, make it so.
Connect Output three with a signal lead to your sub amp input.

(We're going to make this the same as Channel 1 under MONO for this exercise)

Now press PAGE->

This page is the OUT 3 X-OVER page.
Press PARAM -> until TYPE in the upper left hand corner is highlighted (This may be one press with a new unit, or more if preloved).

This lets you select your HIGHPASS filter type.
You need to Select, at a minimum, L-R24 or BUT24, but you can opt to go to L-R48 or BUT48, by turning the large dial.

Press PARAM-> again
This should highlight FREQ on the left hand side of the screen.
This sets your HIGHPASS cutoff frequency.
The value of this depends on how many cabs you are running and what model you built.
The specified values are IN YOUR PLANS under "protecting your drivers".
For the purpose of this exercise I will say I am using 2 x T39's, so I adjust the value to 45Hz with the large dial.

Press PARAM-> again. This highlights TYPE on the upper right corner of the screen, and selects your LOWPASS filter. Select your filter type again
(There is some serious discussion about what and where this value should be, but to keep it simple for the time being, select the same filter you used for your HIGHPASS setting).

Press PARAM-> again to set your LOWPASS frequency. See just above, but for simplicity, let's say you are selecting a crossover point of 90Hz. Change to that value with the large dial.

Press PAGE-> have it OFF
ditto
ditto
Press PAGE-> again. You are at one of the major reasons for buying this unit. The "brick wall" LIMITER page.
Turn the large dial until ON is highlighted next to Limiter.
Press PARAM-> to get the THRESH
If the setting here is not 0dB, turn the large dial clockwise until it is.

To set the limiter value, you need your entire system fully set up (well at least the sub part of it), running a 60hz sine wave through it to your sub amp without any cabs connected. So leave the value as 0dB for the time being. If you don't know how to get the maximum output in volts from your amp, so you know how to adjust this setting, please ask. The amount of limiting required will vary depending on amp brand/model/type, and the driver you selected for your sub build. The limited voltage for your driver is in the plans.

Just remember where this setting is.

PS leave REL at 407ms

Press PAGE-> make sure polarity is set at NORMAL. If for some reason you find you're "out of phase" at your crossover point between subs and tops, you should explore all wiring to make sure that is not the reason for the out of phase first, rather than adjust it here straight up.
You'll only discover this when your system is fully set up and running.

Press PAGE-> again. the delay page can be OFF.
One more press of PAGE-> takes you to the initial screen
Press Channel 3 button and it's green light should be out.

STEREO pre set up done!

Save your settings:
To do so, Press STORE, PARAM->, select store position (eg#4), OK
You will be asked if you want to overwrite the preset if you store it to where you accessed it in the first place. Press OK, then you should get an option to rename it.
I made mine STEREO as an example.

You can do the same adjusting of the setup as described in the MONO section for a different HP for more cabs. Simply STORE it to another preset (say #5) and call it another name.
If you run out of characters, abbreviate it, to something like ST40Hz
Last edited by Grant Bunter on Fri Nov 15, 2013 4:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Built:
DR 250: x 2 (melded array) with March 2012 plans. 2 more under way with CD horn
T39's: 4 x 20" BP102 , 2 x 28" 3012lf.
WH8: x 3 with melded array.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...

Grant Bunter
Posts: 6052
Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:12 am
Location: Ilfracombe Queensland Australia
Contact:

Re: How to set up a DCX 2496.

#15 Post by Grant Bunter » Fri Nov 15, 2013 4:05 pm

It may seem like a lot of posts of instruction.

In reality, it may take say 10-15 minutes max to pre set up your DCX with a MONO setup, and a tad longer to do a STEREO setup.

Once you do the setup routine a few times, you wonder why it seemed such a big deal the first time...
Built:
DR 250: x 2 (melded array) with March 2012 plans. 2 more under way with CD horn
T39's: 4 x 20" BP102 , 2 x 28" 3012lf.
WH8: x 3 with melded array.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...

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