BillFitzmaurice.info

Wood working skills?
Pretty decent. Built a 5'x7' family table that looks phenomenal. Built a 50gal aquarium cabinet. Built various car sub boxes.

Any history in setting up PA? None

Soldering? Lots. Have a 1000W hot air rework station and occasionally repair amplifiers.

Electronics? Used to design switching PSUs, write firmware for microcontrollers, and design some controls boards, PCBs, etc.

KyferEz wrote: ↑Mon May 25, 2020 9:54 pm Wood working skills?
Pretty decent. Built a 5'x7' family table that looks phenomenal. Built a 50gal aquarium cabinet. Built various car sub boxes.

Any history in setting up PA? None

Soldering? Lots. Have a 1000W hot air repel station and occasionally repair amplifiers.

Electronics? Used to design switching PSUs, write firmware for microcontrollers, and design some controls boards, PCBs, etc.

Awesome, you can put some great ticks in boxes, and that will help...

Welcome to the forum!

Are you bound to those dimensions for the room? Are you able to make the room narrower, or wider? This is to avoid some certain low frequency modes. Try to use the golden ratio. https://odometer.org/misc/ht/

Not bound to the dimensions, it's still only partially framed so I can adjust much of it. I'll reconsider it using those, thanks! Any alterations to consider if I do stadium seating?

KyferEz wrote: ↑Mon May 25, 2020 10:30 pm Not bound to the dimensions, it's still only partially framed so I can adjust much of it. I'll reconsider it using those, thanks! Any alterations to consider if I do stadium seating?

Yes. You don’t want a boomy box like structure underneath the seats that will resonate at some PITA frequency(s).
Brace it well.
Don’t know where the room is, can the seat bases be made of concrete?

Basement. They could but I'd prefer not to - would be quite a bit of concrete. What if I built the subs into the stadium steating, I could make the horn mouth the step maybe (though that doesn't take advantage of corner loading), or alternatively leave the space all open instead of boxing it in?

KyferEz wrote: ↑Tue May 26, 2020 12:59 pm Basement. They could but I'd prefer not to - would be quite a bit of concrete. What if I built the subs into the stadium steating, I could make the horn mouth the step maybe (though that doesn't take advantage of corner loading), or alternatively leave the space all open instead of boxing it in?

Lots to ponder at this stage lol.

No don’t put the subs there, unless it turns out with testing that that’s the best place for them to be.
Setting up truly based on sound rather than aesthetics should be your goal, but most people set up based on pics of what everyone else is doing, and that rarely works for sound.

That’s all down the track though, what to build, and building them, needs to happen first...

+1 to what Grant posted. With the subs, you should do the "sub-woofer crawl" to find the best subwoofer location(s). This is something to keep in the back of your mind as you go along with the planning.

KyferEz wrote: ↑Mon May 25, 2020 1:22 pm I want each channel capable of hopefully 140db+ from 80hz up at about 10' away.

In that case you'll need 5 of these: Your ears will quickly give up the ghost though from trying to reproduce the sound level of a firework rocket that flew in through the window. And I thought I was crazy running Omnitop 12 in my room! I mean a Marshall stack is "only" 125dB

hello
if i remember correctly there was a member called MKtheater on here that also built an insane ht with the dr pa speakers. after various setups i think he finally tried the HT designs and absolutely loved them. as i love mine btw.
good advice on the room dimensions, it will eliminate lots of cancellations.
of course if you really want to use pa speakers in that room go for it. 2 dr's stacked for the front and center channel will get you what you're after. THT subs will give you more bass than you're body can tolerate even with earplugs.
have fun building, i'd love to see how it turns out.

greetz ketoet