Jack 10 Lite Build

[Seth]

Pretty sure it's the longer surface (usually is). You can verify it in the Sketchup.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

Use the sketchup model to isolate that part and measure it.

[9830Lark]

Good day on the laser. Almost all the 1/4" work done. Waiting for the driver before I do the spacers.

Not quite as good on the first assembly, which was gluing stapling the horn braces to the top and bottom. Wow, almost need four hands to hold spacers, the brace and the stapler. Then it all wants to drift as soon as I reach for the stapler. If I had it to do over again - I would clamp each brace in position, then drive two screws through it, back out the screws, apply PL, then use the screwws for repositioning, finally hit the stapler.

I have some Dremel work to do in a couple of spots. One brace is maybe 1/16" from the front edge, I'll redo that curve a bit to get the leading edge back to 1/8". One brace straight surface is a bit too close to the side, leaving the one side proud a bit when held against top/bottom. It won't take much. Thank goodness the PL is gap-filling. You can tell, I ran a bead behind each brace just in case of whatever?

Wow - scraping the PL squeeze out after an hour (ok - it was 90 minutes) where necessary is a dream.

[9830Lark]

Started assembly this morning. Brad nailer wouldn't fire, sigh. Finally got past that. Then practiced on scrap to ensure I know where the brad enters the wood, good thing I checked. Then checked nail depth on some of the 1/4" scrap pieces.

Finally, applied the PL and shot brads. Only one miss! I'm sure that won't last.

The clamp and the 90 degree brace REALLY helped.

If you look closely you can see the partial popsicle stick CA'ed to the brace where it was maybe 1/16" from the 1/8" setback. Once it's all PL'ed, I hope it'll be fine.

And yes, that is the toaster in the background. Someone else has decided she can't stand the smell of toast in the morning. Big sigh.

[9830Lark]

Raining out, so it's not 105 degrees in the garage for a change. Nice chance to start on the sides. Time spent clamping and preparing was well spent. Bill's advice in the instructions to use a scrap to set the overlap is spot-on. Worked like a charm at the rear where there's no brace.

Wow, not a single miss on the brad shots, unbelievable. One side down, one to go.

[Tom Smit]

And yes, that is the toaster in the background. Someone else has decided she can't stand the smell of toast in the morning. Big sigh.

LOL, I was going to ask about the toaster! You beat me/us to it.

Thanks for sharing the build journey so far.

[9830Lark]

Attached side 2 this morning. What a mess. Brads miss hitting, missed brads flexing the BB out of position. Ugh. Thank goodness for Bondo.

[9830Lark]

QUESTION.....

How do I attach the interior horn braces? I'm working on my jig to hold them in place. Do I use PL and brads through the sides? Or hot glue solely? Or hot glue followed by brads?

[himhimself]

Attached side 2 this morning. What a mess. Brads miss hitting, missed brads flexing the BB out of position. Ugh. Thank goodness for Bondo.

One of the best tools I've ever bought was a cheap 23g pin nailer. Soooooo much better than a brad nailer when you only need parts to be tacked together for the adhesive to set. The pins don't leave divets that need to be filled. They're tiny so they don't split the wood. If one does go astray, they are easy to pull through with pliers. There's no safety to press against, risking moving the parts before you fire the pin. 5/8" and 1" pins have let me attach pretty much everything building my otops and second set of tubas, sometimes using clamps once the pins have the alignment fixed.

[9830Lark]

All four sides done. Looking pretty good, but the baffle seems to be a bit off. See the differing gap on both side with the horn brace? It's the same top and bottom. Should I worry about this? If so, I suspect I'd just hammer out the baffle, which would likely destroy it. Then mount a new one. Or maybe cut two 1/4" wide strips from the 1/8" BB and bend/glue that to both those braces.

[Bruce Weldy]

All four sides done. Looking pretty good, but the baffle seems to be a bit off. See the differing gap on both side with the horn brace? It's the same top and bottom. Should I worry about this?

I wouldn't. Once you get the horn panels on, it won't be noticeable.

[Seth]

I assume it's off due to the part that has the popsicle stick being more inward than the one on the opposite side, not the baffle position.

I'm with Bruce. Just build it. You'll be the only one who knows.

Lessons are always learned... especially on the first one. It's looking good. Keep up the great work

[himhimself]

All four sides done. Looking pretty good, but the baffle seems to be a bit off. See the differing gap on both side with the horn brace? It's the same top and bottom. Should I worry about this?

I wouldn't. Once you get the horn panels on, it won't be noticeable.

Put a grill on it, and no one will ever be the wiser...

[9830Lark]

Thanks guys. Looking at the interior braces, the same gap is there. So, the baffle is a tad offset and something is just a wee bit off in length - brace or top/bottom.

Forging ahead. Made an executive decision to install the interior horn braces with PL and no brads. Got a clamping jig thrown together.

[9830Lark]

Pretty sure it's the longer surface (usually is). You can verify it in the Sketchup.

Yep - you're correct. verified in SketchUp