Jack 10 Lite Build

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: Jack 10 Lite Build

#16 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

While I'm all for boycotting Russian goods whatever stock they have on hand is already paid for, so buying it won't affect our friends in Ukraine one way or another. Slava Ukraini.

9830Lark
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Re: Jack 10 Lite Build

#17 Post by 9830Lark »

Question, but it's just a hypothetical, as my wood is purchased now.

I have quite a lot of 3/16" three ply plywood that my neighbor gave me. It's not the best, as it has the thin outer veneer, which Bill's instructions plainly state to avoid.

The question is this - If a person was desperate, could they glue-up two sheets of this and fabricate a suitable replacement for the 1/4" 'good' plywood? And, yes, I realize that some dimensions would need to be tweaked to compensate for the 3/8" thickness vs. 1/4" that the plans state.
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Last edited by 9830Lark on Wed Apr 27, 2022 6:08 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: Jack 10 Lite Build

#18 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

3/16" ? Never seen that before, other than for boat and plane models. I guess you could use it.

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AntonZ
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Re: Jack 10 Lite Build

#19 Post by AntonZ »

Over here we call it triplex. I mainly know it from jigsaw assignments, way back in school. Before cutting a significant pile of large pieces to perfect size in order to build a cab, I would first see how it behaves when you glue two smaller scraps perpendicular to each other, the way two panels would be glued together when building cabs. Let the glue cure. Then see how strong the joint has become. There is a chance the thin outer veneer prevents the glue to penetrate into the wood. This effectively makes the glue between the thin outer veneer and the rest of that panel to become the strongest joint in the connection between two panels, hence the first thing that lets loose under stress. Chances are this makes for a cab that may fail sooner under use. The only way to know if it will be strong enough is to try.

In engineering we call this approach "destructive testing". While the results might be disappointing, the process can be quite enjoyable. Have fun :lol:

9830Lark
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Re: Jack 10 Lite Build

#20 Post by 9830Lark »

Another question. Getting ready to do a small parts order from supply house.

I know that I need 3/16" (0.187") spade connectors for the Speakon jacks. I cannot for the life of me find the spade lug size on the driver (Basslite S2010). Like many, I have an assorted box of these from other jobs, but it's really picked over. Invariably I seem to be one short of whatever I need (sigh). I really would like to order everything at once.

Are the driver spades 0.187", 0.205", or 0.250"?

Thanks

Bruce Weldy
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Re: Jack 10 Lite Build

#21 Post by Bruce Weldy »

9830Lark wrote: Wed Apr 27, 2022 1:29 pm Another question. Getting ready to do a small parts order from supply house.

I know that I need 3/16" (0.187") spade connectors for the Speakon jacks. I cannot for the life of me find the spade lug size on the driver (Basslite S2010). Like many, I have an assorted box of these from other jobs, but it's really picked over. Invariably I seem to be one short of whatever I need (sigh). I really would like to order everything at once.

Are the driver spades 0.187", 0.205", or 0.250"?

Thanks
.205 for the eminence connectors. 3/16 is too small and 1/4 is too big....

6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210


"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: Jack 10 Lite Build

#22 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

Do you have the S2010 in hand? All those I've seen have push connectors, not spades.

9830Lark
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Re: Jack 10 Lite Build

#23 Post by 9830Lark »

Bruce Weldy wrote: Wed Apr 27, 2022 1:44 pm .205 for the eminence connectors. 3/16 is too small and 1/4 is too big....

Thanks. I also found it here after you posted. https://eminence.com/pages/custom-oem__ ... components

Bruce Weldy
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Re: Jack 10 Lite Build

#24 Post by Bruce Weldy »

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: Wed Apr 27, 2022 2:48 pm Do you have the S2010 in hand? All those I've seen have push connectors, not spades.
The cheaper speakers like the S2010 have spade connectors.

6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210


"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."

9830Lark
Posts: 106
Joined: Wed Apr 20, 2022 9:36 am
Location: Georgetown, TX

Re: Jack 10 Lite Build

#25 Post by 9830Lark »

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: Wed Apr 27, 2022 2:48 pm Do you have the S2010 in hand? All those I've seen have push connectors, not spades.
Not order yet, but every image I find looks like spade connectors.
spade.png

Bruce Weldy
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Location: New Braunfels, TX

Re: Jack 10 Lite Build

#26 Post by Bruce Weldy »

9830Lark wrote: Wed Apr 27, 2022 5:22 pm
Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: Wed Apr 27, 2022 2:48 pm Do you have the S2010 in hand? All those I've seen have push connectors, not spades.
Not order yet, but every image I find looks like spade connectors.

spade.png
You'd better order those right now before the price goes up......and it is going up over the next 48 hours....maybe quicker.

6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210


"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."

9830Lark
Posts: 106
Joined: Wed Apr 20, 2022 9:36 am
Location: Georgetown, TX

Re: Jack 10 Lite Build

#27 Post by 9830Lark »

Bruce Weldy wrote: Wed Apr 27, 2022 5:51 pm You'd better order those right now before the price goes up......and it is going up over the next 48 hours....maybe quicker.
Yeah - I pulled the trigger just now. Total outlay at this point = $285. All that's left (ha - yeah right) to purchase is Duratex, corners, and a handle. I should end up around $340.

9830Lark
Posts: 106
Joined: Wed Apr 20, 2022 9:36 am
Location: Georgetown, TX

Re: Jack 10 Lite Build

#28 Post by 9830Lark »

Did all the table saw work yesterday. Cutting the larger rectangular pieces (top, bottom, sides). The rest will be laser cut. I manually laid out the horn brace arcs. I will also do this on the laser, just for fun. Hopefully, they'll overlay.

Spent some time in Lightburn. I added 1/8" offset lines to the baffle and top/bottom. And back brace locations. And crossover mounting board. Trying to make assembly a bit easier.

I also tweaked the BFM logo to hopefully be able to laser etch a nice emblem. The very small grid lines don't go over to the laser well. We'll see how it looks when it's actually burned.
horn brace layout.jpg
logo.JPG
topNew.JPG
Xover.JPG

9830Lark
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Joined: Wed Apr 20, 2022 9:36 am
Location: Georgetown, TX

Re: Jack 10 Lite Build

#29 Post by 9830Lark »

Was able to pop to the shop for a few minutes. First four horn braces laser cut. Also laser marked the top and bottom. Glad I did that last step, I had made a bone-headed error on the manual layout on those two. Ran out of time and did not get the baffle cut out.

Two passes at 15 mm/s or a single pass at 10 mm/s and 85% power cut the 1/4 BB nicely (100W CO2).
brace_laserSM.jpg
BTW - Looks like four sheets of 24 x 30" BB will suffice, BUT a cutlist optimizer is a must, as there's not going to be much excess. That's 20 sq ft, vs. 25 sq ft for a 5 x 5 sheet. I almost had a stroke when I did the first cut on one sheet the wrong way (long vs short edge). It all worked out.

9830Lark
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Joined: Wed Apr 20, 2022 9:36 am
Location: Georgetown, TX

Re: Jack 10 Lite Build

#30 Post by 9830Lark »

QUESTION

reviewing the plans in advance. Re - the 30 degree angle on the ducts. Is the 4 3/8" dimension to the longer or shorter surface after the angle is cut?

[edit] looking at the horizontal length of the throat sheath braces, which are 4 3/16", I suppose the 4 3/8" is the longer surface. [/edit]

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