Jack 10 Lite Build
Re: Jack 10 Lite Build
Pretty sure it's the longer surface (usually is). You can verify it in the Sketchup.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
- Bill Fitzmaurice
- Site Admin
- Posts: 28646
- Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 5:59 pm
Re: Jack 10 Lite Build
Use the sketchup model to isolate that part and measure it.
Re: Jack 10 Lite Build
Good day on the laser. Almost all the 1/4" work done. Waiting for the driver before I do the spacers.
Not quite as good on the first assembly, which was gluing stapling the horn braces to the top and bottom. Wow, almost need four hands to hold spacers, the brace and the stapler. Then it all wants to drift as soon as I reach for the stapler. If I had it to do over again - I would clamp each brace in position, then drive two screws through it, back out the screws, apply PL, then use the screwws for repositioning, finally hit the stapler.
I have some Dremel work to do in a couple of spots. One brace is maybe 1/16" from the front edge, I'll redo that curve a bit to get the leading edge back to 1/8". One brace straight surface is a bit too close to the side, leaving the one side proud a bit when held against top/bottom. It won't take much. Thank goodness the PL is gap-filling. You can tell, I ran a bead behind each brace just in case of whatever?
Wow - scraping the PL squeeze out after an hour (ok - it was 90 minutes) where necessary is a dream.
Not quite as good on the first assembly, which was gluing stapling the horn braces to the top and bottom. Wow, almost need four hands to hold spacers, the brace and the stapler. Then it all wants to drift as soon as I reach for the stapler. If I had it to do over again - I would clamp each brace in position, then drive two screws through it, back out the screws, apply PL, then use the screwws for repositioning, finally hit the stapler.
I have some Dremel work to do in a couple of spots. One brace is maybe 1/16" from the front edge, I'll redo that curve a bit to get the leading edge back to 1/8". One brace straight surface is a bit too close to the side, leaving the one side proud a bit when held against top/bottom. It won't take much. Thank goodness the PL is gap-filling. You can tell, I ran a bead behind each brace just in case of whatever?
Wow - scraping the PL squeeze out after an hour (ok - it was 90 minutes) where necessary is a dream.
Re: Jack 10 Lite Build
Started assembly this morning. Brad nailer wouldn't fire, sigh. Finally got past that. Then practiced on scrap to ensure I know where the brad enters the wood, good thing I checked. Then checked nail depth on some of the 1/4" scrap pieces.
Finally, applied the PL and shot brads. Only one miss! I'm sure that won't last.
The clamp and the 90 degree brace REALLY helped.
If you look closely you can see the partial popsicle stick CA'ed to the brace where it was maybe 1/16" from the 1/8" setback. Once it's all PL'ed, I hope it'll be fine.
And yes, that is the toaster in the background. Someone else has decided she can't stand the smell of toast in the morning. Big sigh.
Finally, applied the PL and shot brads. Only one miss! I'm sure that won't last.
The clamp and the 90 degree brace REALLY helped.
If you look closely you can see the partial popsicle stick CA'ed to the brace where it was maybe 1/16" from the 1/8" setback. Once it's all PL'ed, I hope it'll be fine.
And yes, that is the toaster in the background. Someone else has decided she can't stand the smell of toast in the morning. Big sigh.
Re: Jack 10 Lite Build
Raining out, so it's not 105 degrees in the garage for a change. Nice chance to start on the sides. Time spent clamping and preparing was well spent. Bill's advice in the instructions to use a scrap to set the overlap is spot-on. Worked like a charm at the rear where there's no brace.
Wow, not a single miss on the brad shots, unbelievable. One side down, one to go.
Wow, not a single miss on the brad shots, unbelievable. One side down, one to go.
Re: Jack 10 Lite Build
LOL, I was going to ask about the toaster! You beat me/us to it.
Thanks for sharing the build journey so far.
TomS
Re: Jack 10 Lite Build
Attached side 2 this morning. What a mess. Brads miss hitting, missed brads flexing the BB out of position. Ugh. Thank goodness for Bondo.
Re: Jack 10 Lite Build
QUESTION.....
How do I attach the interior horn braces? I'm working on my jig to hold them in place. Do I use PL and brads through the sides? Or hot glue solely? Or hot glue followed by brads?
How do I attach the interior horn braces? I'm working on my jig to hold them in place. Do I use PL and brads through the sides? Or hot glue solely? Or hot glue followed by brads?
-
- Posts: 599
- Joined: Fri Nov 13, 2015 9:34 pm
- Location: Vancouver BC & Bloomington IN
Re: Jack 10 Lite Build
One of the best tools I've ever bought was a cheap 23g pin nailer. Soooooo much better than a brad nailer when you only need parts to be tacked together for the adhesive to set. The pins don't leave divets that need to be filled. They're tiny so they don't split the wood. If one does go astray, they are easy to pull through with pliers. There's no safety to press against, risking moving the parts before you fire the pin. 5/8" and 1" pins have let me attach pretty much everything building my otops and second set of tubas, sometimes using clamps once the pins have the alignment fixed.
2xT30 (20", 3012LF)
2xT30 (21", 3012LF)
4xOtop J-array (Beta12, melded/straight piezos)
Truck Tuba (MCM)
Next up: 2xJack12 or family of table tubas
2xT30 (21", 3012LF)
4xOtop J-array (Beta12, melded/straight piezos)
Truck Tuba (MCM)
Next up: 2xJack12 or family of table tubas
Re: Jack 10 Lite Build
All four sides done. Looking pretty good, but the baffle seems to be a bit off. See the differing gap on both side with the horn brace? It's the same top and bottom. Should I worry about this? If so, I suspect I'd just hammer out the baffle, which would likely destroy it. Then mount a new one. Or maybe cut two 1/4" wide strips from the 1/8" BB and bend/glue that to both those braces.
-
- Posts: 8317
- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
- Location: New Braunfels, TX
Re: Jack 10 Lite Build
I wouldn't. Once you get the horn panels on, it won't be noticeable.
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
Re: Jack 10 Lite Build
I assume it's off due to the part that has the popsicle stick being more inward than the one on the opposite side, not the baffle position.
I'm with Bruce. Just build it. You'll be the only one who knows.
Lessons are always learned... especially on the first one. It's looking good. Keep up the great work
I'm with Bruce. Just build it. You'll be the only one who knows.
Lessons are always learned... especially on the first one. It's looking good. Keep up the great work
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
-
- Posts: 599
- Joined: Fri Nov 13, 2015 9:34 pm
- Location: Vancouver BC & Bloomington IN
Re: Jack 10 Lite Build
Put a grill on it, and no one will ever be the wiser...Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Fri May 06, 2022 5:52 pmI wouldn't. Once you get the horn panels on, it won't be noticeable.
2xT30 (20", 3012LF)
2xT30 (21", 3012LF)
4xOtop J-array (Beta12, melded/straight piezos)
Truck Tuba (MCM)
Next up: 2xJack12 or family of table tubas
2xT30 (21", 3012LF)
4xOtop J-array (Beta12, melded/straight piezos)
Truck Tuba (MCM)
Next up: 2xJack12 or family of table tubas
Re: Jack 10 Lite Build
Thanks guys. Looking at the interior braces, the same gap is there. So, the baffle is a tad offset and something is just a wee bit off in length - brace or top/bottom.
Forging ahead. Made an executive decision to install the interior horn braces with PL and no brads. Got a clamping jig thrown together.
Forging ahead. Made an executive decision to install the interior horn braces with PL and no brads. Got a clamping jig thrown together.