T45 stack

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Bryan Cox
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Re: T45 stack

#31 Post by Bryan Cox » Wed Apr 27, 2022 6:53 pm

Eeek. That's no Bueno, man. If I were in your position, I'd draw out the horn path on the side with a pencil, cut out a piece that'll allow you to slip in the braces, then seal back up with the cutout and PL.

At this point you have a couple options: do nothing and hope; find a way to install the braces; build a new box.
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J_Dunavin
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Re: T45 stack

#32 Post by J_Dunavin » Wed Apr 27, 2022 8:21 pm

All of the internal braces?
Bryan’s idea would work, but I’d honestly suggest cutting off one whole side as close as you can to the side, to open it all back up. Brace everything then glue a new side piece on. If you can make a clean cut your box may only end up a 1/4 inch narrower than the other.
I’m just not sure how to tell you to make that kind of cut.
A really big band saw?
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jimbo7
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Re: T45 stack

#33 Post by jimbo7 » Wed Apr 27, 2022 8:22 pm

nortonw3 wrote:
Wed Apr 27, 2022 11:17 am
However when constructing the 2nd box, I realized I forgot to add the internal braces (not the visible ones) on the first box.
Image

J_Dunavin wrote:
Wed Apr 27, 2022 8:21 pm
All of the internal braces?
Bryan’s idea would work, but I’d honestly suggest cutting off one whole side as close as you can to the side, to open it all back up. Brace everything then glue a new side piece on. If you can make a clean cut your box may only end up a 1/4 inch narrower than the other.
I’m just not sure how to tell you to make that kind of cut.
A really big band saw?
To add to that I'd cut out the side as close to the panels as possible, add braces, then cut a new full size side panel and slap it on. It'll be a 1/2" wider than the others, but it'll be a good reminder every time you look at it.
edit: maybe that's what j_dunavin just said
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J_Dunavin
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Re: T45 stack

#34 Post by J_Dunavin » Wed Apr 27, 2022 8:42 pm

Great minds think alike 😄
Ya I think he needs to de skin one side somehow, but how do you make a clean cut that big? Does anyone have a 24” plus band saw?
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Tom Smit
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Re: T45 stack

#35 Post by Tom Smit » Wed Apr 27, 2022 9:25 pm

Use a hand saw, starting at each corner and working towards the centre. One could temporarily add a straight edge/ cutoff or some such, to the side edge, to act as an initial guide for the handsaw.
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Seth
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Re: T45 stack

#36 Post by Seth » Thu Apr 28, 2022 12:56 am

Interesting how many solutions are coming to light. All of them sound great! My mind went a way different direction.
Screenshot (176).png
I would probably double up the braces in the mouth, between panel 6/12 & 7/12, to take care of bracing panel 6 & 7. Cut open the dead space next to the driver chamber (to the left of panel 5) and add braces between panel 2 & 3... maybe something on 4, although I wouldn't worry about bracing 4 all that much.

You can probably slip some bracing bits through the driver hole to tie panel 3/6 together near the driver. Easy enough.

Between 2 & 8, above the driver chamber... the dowel deal might work well enough. Or cut half inch slits to drop the braces in from the outside and cut them off flush with an oscillating tool/saw once the PL has cured. If you're good with filler and sandpaper, no one will ever know there was a surgery. Could do the same between 1/10, but that area is certainly less stressed and might be able to be overlooked.
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tallevan
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Re: T45 stack

#37 Post by tallevan » Thu Apr 28, 2022 3:04 am

Tom Smit wrote:
Wed Apr 27, 2022 9:25 pm
Use a hand saw, starting at each corner and working towards the centre. One could temporarily add a straight edge/ cutoff or some such, to the side edge, to act as an initial guide for the handsaw.
I would use Tom's approach.
A cheap handsaw will cut through brads as well, and if you are careful the side you are skimming off AND carefully placed battens on the inside panels will act as guides.

To expand on what Tom and other said:
1) Reach inside the horn and screw some temporary guides/battens on panels 6 and 7 leaving a gap a little smaller than the kerf of your handsaw blade between the batten and the inside of side you are trying to remove.
2) Screw a batten/guide on the OUTSIDE of panel 8 around 9/16" from the edge, to allow the same kerf gap as step 1.
3) Starting at the point near panel 9, saw through panel 8 and all the inside braces. Your handsaw should be long enough to do this.
4) You will have two panels left, 10 and 12. Use the same technique with these sides, easier becaues there are no more internal braces to cut.

If you are careful, you might even be able to save the side, with a little light sanding. Personally I'd cut a new one.

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AntonZ
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Re: T45 stack

#38 Post by AntonZ » Thu Apr 28, 2022 3:55 am

Yet another approach for sacrificing the current side panel and cutting a new one. Quite quick and simple. Use your router, not bandsawzilla.

On the side panel draw the lines for all the interior panels (so it looks like Seth's pic). Put a cheap straight router bit of 1/2" or a tad more in your router. Set depth to 1/2" and make your router cuts along the lines. Tacking a straight edge on the cab side panel will help you cut straight at all the right places. This will clear your side panel from the inner panels. Be aware that pieces of the panel may drop into the cab as they come loose. Make sure you don't tilt the router at this point.

To finish it off the joints with the sides can be done with a circular saw. Do that last. If you use the parallel guide and set it close (1/2" minus the blade width) then you can make the cut from the front/bottom/top/back, cutting into the side panel instead of all the other panels. The cab will still have all the original dimensions.

Alternatively, you could make the router cuts for the outer joints as well, just leave a few spots in place to prevent the entire panel dropping near the end. That would be a rather unsafe moment with a router bit spinning at full speed. The last cuts may require some extra care, e.g. manual cutting. Respect the force of the router and keep all your limbs intact.

There may be brads on the joints, hence the cheap router bit. Cuts fine through brads. It may not be the sharpest bit in the box after the act. No problem for a cheap bit.

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Seth
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Re: T45 stack

#39 Post by Seth » Thu Apr 28, 2022 4:47 am

AntonZ wrote:
Thu Apr 28, 2022 3:55 am
...Use your router...
OOOH! I like that option Anton. :thumbsup: Could get that sucker off and not have to sacrifice any cab width at all. Might even be able to use what's left of the side afterward to make the braces.
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AntonZ
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Re: T45 stack

#40 Post by AntonZ » Thu Apr 28, 2022 5:11 am

Seth wrote:
Thu Apr 28, 2022 4:47 am
Might even be able to use what's left of the side afterward to make the braces.
Just what I was thinking right after I posted my suggestion. Great minds think alike :noob:

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Re: T45 stack

#41 Post by Bruce Weldy » Thu Apr 28, 2022 10:35 am

AntonZ wrote:
Thu Apr 28, 2022 3:55 am
Put a cheap straight router bit of 1/2" or a tad more in your router. Set depth to 1/2" and make your router cuts along the lines.
:clap: :clap: :clap:

This is absolutely the best solution.

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tallevan
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Re: T45 stack

#42 Post by tallevan » Thu Apr 28, 2022 11:37 am

Now I agree with Anton. Nailed it.

jimbo7
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Re: T45 stack

#43 Post by jimbo7 » Sat Apr 30, 2022 8:04 pm

My next suggestion would've been this:

Image
(edit: not my pic)
Last edited by jimbo7 on Sat Apr 30, 2022 8:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
BFM builds:
XF212
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2x AT 14" MCM 55-2421
TrT 5" MCM 55-2421
AT 18" JBL GTO804
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J_Dunavin
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Re: T45 stack

#44 Post by J_Dunavin » Sat Apr 30, 2022 8:30 pm

Humm I haven’t tried that method 😄
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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: T45 stack

#45 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice » Sat Apr 30, 2022 9:06 pm

I have, with design prototypes that didn't meet expectations. You can't win them all.

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