Awesome, thanks AntonZ! I need all the ideas i can get!
HowieZ DR200 build
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
Ok I need some advice or guidance on the throat filler. What do I glue them to the throat baffle with, PL? I was trying to wrap my head around PL expanding and moving them. I can't clamp them, I feel like it'll crush. Or maybe a small weight?
<edit> I see everyone is using hot glue, do you do a circle, ooze it all over or what? I feel liked I won't get enough down in time to stick it on before it cools. My (wifes) hot glue gun sucks!</edit>
So I made a quick jig to hold the foam while I carved it. I layed out my circles on both sides for the two diameters. Then put a screw with a wood washer though to spin it around. I used my knife to carve close to the circle. Then I took my rotozip and held it on the jig and spun the foam to get my large OD disk. Next I held a razor on the OD and carved a rough taper, spinning it by hand. Then I propped my belt sander on a scrap of wood, leaning against the jig to approximate the taper. I spun by hand, slowly working it down the the taper shape. This left some lines, but I finished with some 120grit on a palm sander to smooth it out.
<edit> I see everyone is using hot glue, do you do a circle, ooze it all over or what? I feel liked I won't get enough down in time to stick it on before it cools. My (wifes) hot glue gun sucks!</edit>
So I made a quick jig to hold the foam while I carved it. I layed out my circles on both sides for the two diameters. Then put a screw with a wood washer though to spin it around. I used my knife to carve close to the circle. Then I took my rotozip and held it on the jig and spun the foam to get my large OD disk. Next I held a razor on the OD and carved a rough taper, spinning it by hand. Then I propped my belt sander on a scrap of wood, leaning against the jig to approximate the taper. I spun by hand, slowly working it down the the taper shape. This left some lines, but I finished with some 120grit on a palm sander to smooth it out.
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
What you could try is to put a smear of PL in a loop near the edges, and put it in place. Then, with the hot glue gun, put a dab at one point at the opening, press it down and wait to cool. Then gently lift up just enough to add a few more dabs, and press down into place until the glue cools enough to hold.
TomS
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
Swear I posted this yesterday, or this morning, the only thing I got done this week. Holiday preparations took the front seat.
I put concentric beads of hot glue on the baffle. Then I heated it back up with a heat gun so I could glue all at once with it hot. Then I took an exacto-knife type razer and slided the 2" middle out flush with the throat.
I threw a coat of primer on it to keep it from getting dinged or crumbling as easy.
I put concentric beads of hot glue on the baffle. Then I heated it back up with a heat gun so I could glue all at once with it hot. Then I took an exacto-knife type razer and slided the 2" middle out flush with the throat.
I threw a coat of primer on it to keep it from getting dinged or crumbling as easy.
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
I don't know how people are gluing up the module. I couldn't figure out any way to cloamp it or hold the taper of the cabinet. I decided to glue/nail a one piece top and bottom to the module back. Then I put in the sheath braces and supports and glued/nailed them. Last I threw a piece of wax paper over the top and bottom and lightly screwed the module back into the woofer chamber so it wouldn't move up or down out of parallel with the cabinet taper. I would have like to put a few sheets or cardboard to maybe space it out better but I'm hoping if it fits while curing, it'll be ok. I'll try to wrap the sheath sides tomorrow.
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
It was kind of hidden in the plans. It's placement below the compression driver cleats had me overlook it several times before I caught it. I just assumed the paragraph was related to compression drivers and didn't bother reading it.
The way you did it looks fair enough. Might have to Dremel out some clearance for the tweeters. But, that's no big deal.Bottom of page 23 wrote:To install the upper and lower cleats put adhesive on their ends, put them in place, securing them to the top and bottom with a screw. Go to the outside of the top/bottom and drive two screws though it into the cleat, then remove the inside screw, which will be hard to reach once the module is completed.
Look'n good Howie
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
I did a quick test fit. I'm able to spin one side of piezo mount in, then twist other way and fully insert. I'll check again when I get elements mounted again. I need to check their screw bosses for interference. And I want to glue on the diffuser yet.
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
I forgot to upload this picture. I found another use for Bills array glue jig. I was trying to figure out how to cut the sheath braces with the cabinet taper. Maybe everyone builds theirs square? Well since my plan was to lay the top and bottom in the frame, against the module back for glue up, i wanted good cuts. So it turns out if you take the glue jig, and lay the sheath braces on it, it sets them at the 45 they'll be in the module. Then I set my table saw to 3deg and cut one end of each. Then I flipped it to the other side of the jig to cut the other end. I snuck up on the length until it was snug and then shaved another 1/16 or so off. I set a stop and cut the second end of the other 3. Turned out perfect. My middle blaces were not as nice despite being simple 45's but they were close.
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
I put a coat of paint on the array to cover up my sketchy work. Then I wrapped some 120grit on my PVC diffuser and 'sanded' the spots where it will touch. There I dabbed PVC cement and glued them in.
I'll shoot them with a second coat after they cure a bit.
I'll shoot them with a second coat after they cure a bit.
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
Bill, this new Dayton was just listed, and i'm guessing it has the rising response you are looking for? Not quite the Beta8 sensitivity, but still a decent price at $45 i think.Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: ↑Wed Nov 10, 2021 3:46 pm There are two concerns with the GRS 8PT-8. One is the high Qts, which will result in less sensitivity than the Beta 8. The other is the lack of rising response in the mids, so the midrange response won't be as good. It still should work pretty well with sufficient EQ.
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Au ... hm-295-636 VS my el cheapo GRS for $22...
- Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: HowieZ DR200 build
Compare them to the Beta 8 chart, as that's the current benchmark. The Dayton is considerably better than the GRS.
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
Honestly, the Beta 8 doesn't seem to have rising response in the midrange. Seems fairly flat from 150Hz until over 1kHz. Is it the rise above 1kHz that's desireable?
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
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- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
- Location: New Braunfels, TX
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
Yep, that way you don't have a hole at the crossover point of the piezos. A little less important with the 1.2k crossover.
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
Howzit Howie? Any progress?
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
No progress lately, too many holiday plans. Snowmobile trails opened near a friends cabin so we ran away for a long weekend. And FRIGID cold today, so I don't know if i'll warm up the garage or not. I do have an awesome Christmas present from my awesome wife and children to share, hope to get picks up of that one of these days.
In the meantime, I filled in the ends of my diffuser PVC with some of my gooey ABS melt. Then I threw another coat or two of paint. I can't cover up the spots where the plastic melted during cutting or it was scraped away to glue. But it'll do for me. Not gonna sell them!
In the meantime, I filled in the ends of my diffuser PVC with some of my gooey ABS melt. Then I threw another coat or two of paint. I can't cover up the spots where the plastic melted during cutting or it was scraped away to glue. But it'll do for me. Not gonna sell them!