That's why they make grills.
HowieZ DR200 build
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- Posts: 8317
- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
- Location: New Braunfels, TX
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
I thought about it, but I love the reaction when I tell people there are 16 tweeters per cab, so I think i'll show them off no matter what.
And an update, finally got to open my Christmas present and start working on assembly. They all chipped in and got me a floor standing drill press i've only been asking for forever. My awesome wife bought me my super table saw nearly 20 years ago, and i've wanted this practically as long, just never justified. Now she's getting serious about little projects for her, so lucky me! I've already paused assembly to get a mobile base before I proceed (and it's too darn cold in the garage today!).
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
Sweet present! I have one similar, a 17" Jet. I can't live without it. Congratulations!
Otop 12 x 4 (Delta Pro 12-450a) 2x melded, 2x straight
Titan 39 x 4 (3012LF) 20" wide
Titan 39 x 4 (3012LF) 20" wide
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
My table saw is a Jet JSS10, love it. wanted a Jet drill but the Ridgid was cheaper, so it fit our budget.
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
Nothing wrong with Rigid, man. Enjoy!
Otop 12 x 4 (Delta Pro 12-450a) 2x melded, 2x straight
Titan 39 x 4 (3012LF) 20" wide
Titan 39 x 4 (3012LF) 20" wide
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
I'm soldering piezo's today, but until I get some progress...my drill press is finally assembled and on the stand.
Fired it up this morning only to find out the motor housing was dented in shipping and rubs the fan. I waited a week for a mobile base and now I may end up taking the drill back for a replacement. Oh the setbacks!
Fired it up this morning only to find out the motor housing was dented in shipping and rubs the fan. I waited a week for a mobile base and now I may end up taking the drill back for a replacement. Oh the setbacks!
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
One array soldered up. I had two piezos that seemed off, rattling inside. One was bad for sure but the other tested fine. That being said, as I put them together, somehow two cones smashed or went out of alignment so now i'll probably replace 4.
Live and learn. Oh well, i have one done, i'll order spares and some to make a test better test jig. I cut all my wires in 4" lengths, and stripped a bit from each end. Then I tinned them all, and tinned each terminal just a bit. I held pairs and warmed them, and then touched to terminals to get minimal heat and solder them in. It was putzy but not bad.
Live and learn. Oh well, i have one done, i'll order spares and some to make a test better test jig. I cut all my wires in 4" lengths, and stripped a bit from each end. Then I tinned them all, and tinned each terminal just a bit. I held pairs and warmed them, and then touched to terminals to get minimal heat and solder them in. It was putzy but not bad.
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
Now that I have a drill press, i'm taking a stab at the Array Modules and nacelles. Someone on here cut holes and put PVC tubes in to recess the screws, can't remember whom to give credit to. I decided i'd try to drill 3/4" diameter holes in the module face. I had match drilled the back to my driver chamber sides/braces. So I flipped it over and ran a 3/16 drill back through from the back side, slowly biting into the module face. My hope was to not deflect too much and get a decent target to hit from the front with a forstner bit. I dont' have a 3/4 forstner but I do have an Irwin 3 blade wood auger of sorts. I then aligned it's point in the hold and slowly cut into the face to make the same ellipse from the PVC mount thread. I find if you put a block of wood on the trailing side of the bit, where it would chip out, you can drill pretty fast. The first one I had some chips, the second cab cut all 8 ellipses pretty clean. I made a stop so all my holes were equadistant from the side/edge. And I was able to align a hole and clamp, slide it and do one more clamp/hole. THen I spun it 180 and did two kittly corner. Then I flipped my stop block and cut the other 2 and 2.
edit credit to Grant Butler! viewtopic.php?p=194715#p194715
My plan is to use wood dowels so I can PL them decent, and i'll fill in the chips with bondo.
edit credit to Grant Butler! viewtopic.php?p=194715#p194715
My plan is to use wood dowels so I can PL them decent, and i'll fill in the chips with bondo.
Last edited by howiez on Thu Jan 20, 2022 5:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Bill Fitzmaurice
- Site Admin
- Posts: 28645
- Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 5:59 pm
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
You could put sections of plastic pipe through those holes, with PL all around on the inside to secure them, sanded to match the taper of the sheathing.
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
Grant Bunter's DR250 Build
So you're not going to put PVC in like Grant did. You're going to insert a dowel instead... and presumably drill through that?My plan is to use wood dowels so I can PL them decent, and i'll fill in the chips with bondo.
I've considered a bunch of different solutions in securing the module, but that one never crossed my mind. I dig it. Great solution. Creative.
I think I'm going to screw (from the outside) a couple lengths of wood accross the driver access hole (on the inside), which will allow relocating the module screws inward toward the centerline of the cab, where the heads of the fasteners will be completely hidden and accessible by removing the tweeter array. This should be much simpler than making nacelles or anything that requires drilling through the module sheaths. It also leaves the smooth lines of the mouth intact. If a driver needs to be changed, remove the tweeter array, remove the tweeter module, remove the cross braces/anchor points. It wouldn't really be an option for the compression drive horn module though.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
Hadn't thought of that, good idea also, allows for short fasteners. I was just shooting for wood/wood glue interface. PVC don't glue so hot with PL!Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: ↑Thu Jan 20, 2022 1:56 pm You could put sections of plastic pipe through those holes, with PL all around on the inside to secure them, sanded to match the taper of the sheathing.
- Bill Fitzmaurice
- Site Admin
- Posts: 28645
- Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 5:59 pm
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
It would look cool too.
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
Finally back in the shop. I've been busy, and away. Took a much needed vacation to a warmer climate and enjoyed 80F plus temperatures for a week.
I counterbored my dowels today after they sat/cured while I was gone. Then I cut them mostly flush with a multi-tool. Last I sanded them flush with 60grit and 120. Now to fill in the nail holes and chips with putty.
I counterbored my dowels today after they sat/cured while I was gone. Then I cut them mostly flush with a multi-tool. Last I sanded them flush with 60grit and 120. Now to fill in the nail holes and chips with putty.
Re: HowieZ DR200 build
I apoligize, i've been away, neglecting my speaker duties!
Snowmobiling season is short here in Wisconsin, so we take what we can get, 4 weekends straight of running north...
Anyway some updates, crossovers started.
Snowmobiling season is short here in Wisconsin, so we take what we can get, 4 weekends straight of running north...
Anyway some updates, crossovers started.