Hey peoples,
Just about to put together the LP and HP filters for my DR200's.
Thought i'd just check in to get any tips that you may have?
I thought i'd use 14awg for the LP and 18awg for the HP.
Obviously low temp soldering iron and short soldering time on the components.
I'm in Australia and got my components from Leland, so don't want to blow anything and have to wait to get more bits.
And how have you mounted them in the cab to be removable?
Pretty sure i've sorted it but would love to hear of any pitfalls or tips to make the process as smooth as possible.
Cheers
Soldering filters for DR200's
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Re: Soldering filters for DR200's
I run my soldering iron at a standard (high) temperature. Typically, I tin all the leads and wires beforehand. Then I add solder to the tip of the iron until a little molten drop forms on the tip of the iron. I place that heated drop on pre-tined and twisted component leads and it bonds the components super quick without putting too much heat into any of it. Adding a little solder to the tip after each joint to replenish what was used, as I go along.
All this works really well, but the soldering tip needs to be tinned and clean for it to work well. If you're not too familiar with tip cleaning and/or basic soldering techniques, 10-15 minutes on YouTube will be time well spent.
All this works really well, but the soldering tip needs to be tinned and clean for it to work well. If you're not too familiar with tip cleaning and/or basic soldering techniques, 10-15 minutes on YouTube will be time well spent.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
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Re: Soldering filters for DR200's
No and yes. A low temperature iron takes longer to heat the joint, and that results in longer soldering time and increases the potential for a poor bond. I use a 40 watt soldering iron at high temperature.Paddlsonic wrote: ↑Tue May 25, 2021 10:55 pm Obviously low temp soldering iron and short soldering time on the components.
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Re: Soldering filters for DR200's
G'day.
Check out the fifth post on this page of my build thread:
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=18214&start=90
I used 14G from speakon to both boards input, and 14G from woofer output to driver.
18G is fine for HF, as it has reduced power compared to LF
Are you doing melded arrays or ????
Check out the fifth post on this page of my build thread:
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=18214&start=90
I used 14G from speakon to both boards input, and 14G from woofer output to driver.
18G is fine for HF, as it has reduced power compared to LF
Are you doing melded arrays or ????
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
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- Location: Australia
Re: Soldering filters for DR200's
Thanks Guys,
Yep , i think i'm ready to go. Been soldering rgbw strip for awhile so i'm used to some finer work. Thanks for the photos Grant. I think i must have read that post but missed that page or something. I'm doing a melded array. Those bits are sorted. Don't really want to get to the end, it's a lot of fun making these things.
Thanks again.
Yep , i think i'm ready to go. Been soldering rgbw strip for awhile so i'm used to some finer work. Thanks for the photos Grant. I think i must have read that post but missed that page or something. I'm doing a melded array. Those bits are sorted. Don't really want to get to the end, it's a lot of fun making these things.
Thanks again.
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- Posts: 27
- Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2020 8:54 pm
- Location: Australia
Re: Soldering filters for DR200's
What is the easiest way to test the filters are working properly? i've got all four of mine ready for the DR200's, can't see why they wouldn't work but it'd be great to run some tests to make sure everything is perfect.
I'm guessing test tones would give me some idea. Could i put a multimeter over them?
What sort of parameters am i looking for?
Cheers
I'm guessing test tones would give me some idea. Could i put a multimeter over them?
What sort of parameters am i looking for?
Cheers
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Re: Soldering filters for DR200's
I downloaded an app that lets me run frequency sweeps. Hook a full range speaker (like a normal hifi speaker) to the low output from the x-over and run a sweep. It should fade out as it goes up out of the frequency range. Then do the same with the other output, should be no lows, fading in as the frequency goes above the x-over point.
2xT30 (20", 3012LF)
2xT30 (21", 3012LF)
4xOtop J-array (Beta12, melded/straight piezos)
Truck Tuba (MCM)
Next up: 2xJack12 or family of table tubas
2xT30 (21", 3012LF)
4xOtop J-array (Beta12, melded/straight piezos)
Truck Tuba (MCM)
Next up: 2xJack12 or family of table tubas