BillFitzmaurice.info

Build Session #1 - Time .. about 1 hour

Hey guys!

I am finally cutting this wood after having everything to build them for like 5 years!

I have some time now and really want to get these going once this stuff gets over with. I will be building 4 x DR250's after this. Stay tuned!

I'm building this batch of...

4 x T48 24" Loaded with 15NLW9300
2 x T48 18" Loaded with 3012LF

I am a little worried my XTI 4002 will not run the 18sound subs very well as the clip light comes on @ 72v. These are able to run @ 80v. You think it will be ok to limit these @ 65v or do I need a different amp to run these up to 80v?

I will run the 3012LFs on an XTI 2002 .. It can do 40v easily.

Anyways... here are some pics from the first cuts today.
I have 12 sheets ready to go... only need 10 for main panels.
Panel cutting thingamajig .. I will have it on horses tomorrow. Was a little tough working on the ground.
Rip cuts made with sled

More tomorrow!!

I'll enjoy watching this come together.

Run 'em on the amps you have and see what you think. My 2¢

Enjoy your build!

Live youtube feed of the build?

jimbo7 wrote: ↑Tue Apr 21, 2020 9:14 am Live youtube feed of the build?

That actually popped in my head!

Build Session #2 - Yesterday .. Time .. about 2 hours

I was able to use my rack/CDJ console to support the cutting table. I was going to tear this box apart and build a new one... glad I didn't do it yet!

I actually built that about 11 years ago when I had the NS7. The large cavity below actually held my QSC KSubs in it! It was a pretty cool setup. Way to heavy though if I had to lift it or go over gravel. After a few times trying to do that I took them out. It was like that for a few years.
Worked out nicely.
Was a little high though.. I had to use a ladder to hop up there on the cross cuts.

Build Session #3 - Today .. Time .. about 4 hours
Got quite a bit done today. I actually cut 2-3 sheets at a time. Had me thinking I should have done 4 x 18" it was so easy to cut multiple sheets. Just looked at the cutlist layouts and figured what went together and it was a piece of cake.
3 sheets stacked to be sliced all at once with the war manual at the ready.
Wish I had remembered the wax for the sled. It would have slid a lot smoother. I have it in the truck for tomorrow. Oh.. I remembered to bring the little shop vac for dust collection duty. It was killing me yesterday with all the wind blowing it in my face.

And I needed some masking tape to keep the splintering down on the cross cuts.
I just kept clamps on the stacks of cut pieces so they would not move at all.
That was it for today! I have now cut 9 of 10 sheets.. one more to go!

I am going to use dowels and pocket screws to assemble these. I know it will take a while to drill all the holes but I remember when I built the T39's and the SLA Pro's it was kind of a pain to keep panels aligned once you put the PL on and clamp it down. They always tended to slide out of place. Very frustrating. I am going to use dowels to align then use the pocket hole screws to let it set up and cure. After it cures I will remove the pocket screws and fill the holes with PL.

I am also going to dado the panels for the braces on the inside panels. Those where a pain too I recall.

In my head.. this sounds like the way to go. I have not seen anyone else do it this way on here. We will see tomorrow!

Dowels, pocket screws, and dados have been done before, but they're purely aesthetic with Bill's designs. We don't do that mainly because it requires extra tools and time. I like to trace a 1/2" offset line from the edge of a panel then drive some screws in just so it pokes through the wood as a panel alignment helper, then glue the edge and drive the screws home. Requires less clamps and the panel stays aligned till the glue is dry. Then remove screws and carry on. Think of it as a removable dowel. A trick I'm sure I stole from someone here. I think I've had the same box of 1" screws for a few years now.

Looking good. Keep it up.

jimbo7 wrote: ↑Tue Apr 21, 2020 11:14 pm I like to trace a 1/2" offset line from the edge of a panel then drive some screws in just so it pokes through the wood as a panel alignment helper, then glue the edge and drive the screws home.

That is a good idea. I will try it both ways and see whats easier/faster then go from there!

I found that using brads was much faster than screws. Align one end and shoot, align the other end and shoot, give the panel a few whacks with a rubber mallet to seat it, then fill in between the two initial brads with more every 4, 5, 6 inches (whatever feels right). But, the same caveat exists, not everyone has an air compressor and brad gun. I didn't for the first cab I built (AutoTuba) and every panel got screws, pre-drilled and counter sunk. A complete PITA compared to a Brad gun.

I like the idea of a screw tip poking through each end to help keep things from slipp'n and sliding around. Think I'll try that out on my next build. Shoot, there's already holes drilled 2" from the end of each panel. Almost a no brainer. Thanks Jimbo.

Dowels and pocket screws sounds ambitious. I would not mind at all... watching someone else do that in their project. I'm in complete support

On big builds like T48s, screws are helpful. As stated, drill 'em, and let the tip come through just a little on each in of the panel for alignment. Pull those down tight and then nail it. If you don't have a nailer, then use screws every few inches. As long as everything is pre-drilled, it's pretty easy. Just hang one end off the table, screw it. Then flip it around and hit the other end.

As a woodworker, I appreciate dados and dowels (although I prefer biscuits), but it is really a huge waste of time on these boxes. Spend your time marking both sides of the side panels where the interior panels go. And not just a center line, you can do that on the outside, but you have to draw the edges of the panel so you can line it up when you are putting it together.

Like Jim, I still have the screws from my very first build....always pull 'em out and fill with bondo. They serve no purpose as the glue does the holding.....and that PL really holds.

I couldn't find it anywhere, why do you want a pair of 18's?

Grant Bunter wrote: ↑Wed Apr 22, 2020 3:36 pm I couldn't find it anywhere, why do you want a pair of 18's?

For a couple reasons.

#1 My trailer is only 5x8 so I can only fit those plus 4xDR250s and the amp rack. I don’t really want to bother with trading my trailer out for a bigger one right now. In the future I may do that and build another 2 x 36” T48s.

#2 I would like the option of having a lighter one or two and being able to put it in the back of my truck for smaller gigs and weddings to pair with the SLA Pros. Many venues around here will not allow me to play the Titans very loud. Three or four instances they threatened to shut me down running my four T39s. One of the reasons people hire me is for the great sound I can bring so they expect the works.

I have a couple really small gigs every week I can do with one K12 and one KSub. I want to sell the QSC stuff I have, except the K8 that I use for ceremonies. I will use one 18” T48 and one stack of SLA Pros.

Many times I have multiple gigs in the same day on Saturdays. The main one I have requires that I have the main system setup and I will have an opener DJ fill in till I get there.

^That's all cool, just wondering.
I'm sure you're used to trailer tetris, but have you ever though of going up?
The only reason I question the 18" wide cab is, you're cruelling free output.
You're going to the effort to build new cabs, use 3012lf's (and the 18sounds for the other 4), yet you want build em narrow.
All of 6" narrower compared to the others.

You want to throw one in the truck for a smaller gig, build it 24 wide and take one instead of 2.

I just dislike seeing all this effort for not as much reward as could be had when you use all 6.

I do understand, I have 20" T39's x 4, but that was because that was as wide as I could build with a BP102.
2 x 28" wide 3012lf loaded T39's stomp on the 4 x 20"ers...

Grant Bunter wrote: ↑Thu Apr 23, 2020 1:53 am You want to throw one in the truck for a smaller gig, build it 24 wide and take one instead of 2.

I have one of those folding Bakflip hard covers on the bed. Weather is very unpredictable here in Indiana. I only have about 19 1/2" clearance for gear so that is why I went with 18" wide. I could just keep the T39s I have for that purpose but... I was thinking it would be lighter. You know what?>? I just realized that they won't be any lighter!! Given that they are 9" taller and almost the same footprint.

Oh well.. I guess they would be easier to stack on top of the 24" ones for VPlate. I am going to try that once we get back to work.

Now I am second guessing my whole decision on the sizes. I could actually fit 4x30" along the length of the trailer and still have space for the DRs and maybe the amp rack.

Too late now.. I already cut almost all the parts! If it doesn't rain I will cut the last sheet today.