2x Tuba 30 Build (First Build)

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jdthorpe
Posts: 32
Joined: Wed Jul 03, 2019 8:55 pm

2x Tuba 30 Build (First Build)

#1 Post by jdthorpe » Tue Sep 03, 2019 12:50 pm

Jeff here...I’ve posted a few questions here and there on the Tuba/Titan thread and jimbo7 suggested I start a build thread to post my questions as they come up throughout the build. I’m new to passive speaker setups as I’ve always purchased active speakers for my business, home etc. I’m also very aware that you can fry drivers pretty easily if things are done wrong so I’m trying to glean as much info as I can from previous posts in this forum & on the net, but I’m going to still have a lot of questions. Yes, I’m a newbie... I’m building 2 Tuba 30’s 24” wide single loaded with 3012lf drivers. I have the majority of my wood cut and will be starting the assembly soon. Here are a few questions that have recently come up:

-I have a Crown XLS 2502 amp that I will be using for the Tubas. I’m ready to break in the drivers as well as test to make sure the surround doesn’t hit the baffle as suggested in Bill’s plans (I alluded to this in a previous post but didn’t ask exactly how to hook everything up). I don’t want to fry my drivers and internet “how-to” searches show a lot of guys breaking in drivers, but no real “idiots guides” to doing it correctly without damaging your speakers. For anyone familiar with the Crown XLS series, what specific settings do I need to have my “Amp Mode,” “Crossover,” “Input Sensitivity” set to for the surround/baffle test and for the breaking in process? and should I use the “Factory Reset” option to reset the amp so there’s nothing set in the background that could cause issues?

-When I do test the surround/baffle clearance test and break in I’ll use a 3.5mm to RCA to go from my Macbook to the amp and I assume one RCA plug (red or white) is the input for channel 1 and the other is the input for channel 2 (according to the inputs on the back of the amp). If that’s the case, if I’m only testing one driver through channel 1 I would only need to hook up the one RCA input into the channel 1 input, correct? Then I will just use my speaker wire to run from my amp’s output side channel 1 red (amp) to red (driver) and black (amp) to black (driver), correct?

-I purchased the Tuba 30 kit from speakerhardware.com and plan to install speakon connector dishes (jack plate) on panels 7 & 10. Obviously I will have to make sure that these are airtight...would you suggest sealing around the connector dish with PL Premium adhesive since it expands and it’ll REALLY do the job, but that will likely also limit me from ever removing the connector dishes in the future if I have an issue (not sure that I’d ever need to remove them, just thinking ahead), or should I seal around the connector dish with acrylic latex caulk?

I appreciate your help and the opinions of you guys that have built several cabs before. Thanks again!
-Jeff

jdthorpe
Posts: 32
Joined: Wed Jul 03, 2019 8:55 pm

Re: 2x Tuba 30 Build (First Build)

#2 Post by jdthorpe » Tue Sep 03, 2019 1:08 pm

One more question, the speakon connector dishes are large enough to 1/4” jacks to them (as suggested by speakerhardware.com) - what would be the advantage of adding 1/4” jacks if you are going to hook up your subs using the speakon connectors? I understand that different types of connectors give you different options, but should I bother drilling out the holes in the connector dishes and adding the 1/4” jacks? If it’s something I probably won’t use I’m not going to bother...if it’s something that would be REALLY useful I’ll do it.

Bruce Weldy
Posts: 6807
Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
Location: New Braunfels, TX

Re: 2x Tuba 30 Build (First Build)

#3 Post by Bruce Weldy » Tue Sep 03, 2019 1:30 pm

jdthorpe wrote:
Tue Sep 03, 2019 1:08 pm
One more question, the speakon connector dishes are large enough to 1/4” jacks to them (as suggested by speakerhardware.com) - what would be the advantage of adding 1/4” jacks if you are going to hook up your subs using the speakon connectors? I understand that different types of connectors give you different options, but should I bother drilling out the holes in the connector dishes and adding the 1/4” jacks? If it’s something I probably won’t use I’m not going to bother...if it’s something that would be REALLY useful I’ll do it.
Let's answer this one first......absolutely not! You are building a Pro rig....keep it pro. That means no 1/4" speaker connections anywhere, anytime. Plus - it allows air to escape unless you use air tight jacks. Just keep it speakon all the way.

6 - T39 4-25" 2-22" 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512 Melded/NSD2005
1 - T24
2 - XF210


"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."

Bruce Weldy
Posts: 6807
Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
Location: New Braunfels, TX

Re: 2x Tuba 30 Build (First Build)

#4 Post by Bruce Weldy » Tue Sep 03, 2019 1:39 pm

jdthorpe wrote:
Tue Sep 03, 2019 12:50 pm

-I have a Crown XLS 2502 amp that I will be using for the Tubas. I’m ready to break in the drivers as well as test to make sure the surround doesn’t hit the baffle as suggested in Bill’s plans (I alluded to this in a previous post but didn’t ask exactly how to hook everything up). I don’t want to fry my drivers and internet “how-to” searches show a lot of guys breaking in drivers, but no real “idiots guides” to doing it correctly without damaging your speakers. For anyone familiar with the Crown XLS series, what specific settings do I need to have my “Amp Mode,” “Crossover,” “Input Sensitivity” set to for the surround/baffle test and for the breaking in process? and should I use the “Factory Reset” option to reset the amp so there’s nothing set in the background that could cause issues?
Do a reset to get everything back to square one. Amp Mode is Stereo Y input - that means that the mono ouput from your driverack goes into channel one and the amp parallels that signal to channel 2.

-When I do test the surround/baffle clearance test and break in I’ll use a 3.5mm to RCA to go from my Macbook to the amp and I assume one RCA plug (red or white) is the input for channel 1 and the other is the input for channel 2 (according to the inputs on the back of the amp). If that’s the case, if I’m only testing one driver through channel 1 I would only need to hook up the one RCA input into the channel 1 input, correct? Then I will just use my speaker wire to run from my amp’s output side channel 1 red (amp) to red (driver) and black (amp) to black (driver), correct?
Because of the Y input you did above, just plug into channel 1 with your Mac. Send a 30hz signal to the amp. Use your volt meter (no speakers hooked up yet) and increase the volume on the amp until you reach 10 volts. Do this for channel 2 also. Once they are both at 10 volts, stop the signal and hook up the speakers (do both at once). Start the signal and let 'em run for 10-12 hours.
Hang 'em up in space with a coat hanger or just place 'em on their side/back and let 'em rip.


-I purchased the Tuba 30 kit from speakerhardware.com and plan to install speakon connector dishes (jack plate) on panels 7 & 10. Obviously I will have to make sure that these are airtight...would you suggest sealing around the connector dish with PL Premium adhesive since it expands and it’ll REALLY do the job, but that will likely also limit me from ever removing the connector dishes in the future if I have an issue (not sure that I’d ever need to remove them, just thinking ahead), or should I seal around the connector dish with acrylic latex caulk?
The dish should have come with a gasket. Just use that.

I appreciate your help and the opinions of you guys that have built several cabs before. Thanks again!
-Jeff

6 - T39 4-25" 2-22" 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512 Melded/NSD2005
1 - T24
2 - XF210


"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."

jdthorpe
Posts: 32
Joined: Wed Jul 03, 2019 8:55 pm

Re: 2x Tuba 30 Build (First Build)

#5 Post by jdthorpe » Tue Sep 03, 2019 1:40 pm

Bruce Weldy wrote:
Tue Sep 03, 2019 1:30 pm
jdthorpe wrote:
Tue Sep 03, 2019 1:08 pm
One more question, the speakon connector dishes are large enough to 1/4” jacks to them (as suggested by speakerhardware.com) - what would be the advantage of adding 1/4” jacks if you are going to hook up your subs using the speakon connectors? I understand that different types of connectors give you different options, but should I bother drilling out the holes in the connector dishes and adding the 1/4” jacks? If it’s something I probably won’t use I’m not going to bother...if it’s something that would be REALLY useful I’ll do it.
Let's answer this one first......absolutely not! You are building a Pro rig....keep it pro. That means no 1/4" speaker connections anywhere, anytime. Plus - it allows air to escape unless you use air tight jacks. Just keep it speakon all the way.
Thanks Bruce. You saved me some $ and work!

jdthorpe
Posts: 32
Joined: Wed Jul 03, 2019 8:55 pm

Re: 2x Tuba 30 Build (First Build)

#6 Post by jdthorpe » Tue Sep 03, 2019 3:11 pm

Bruce Weldy wrote:
Tue Sep 03, 2019 1:39 pm
jdthorpe wrote:
Tue Sep 03, 2019 12:50 pm

-I have a Crown XLS 2502 amp that I will be using for the Tubas. I’m ready to break in the drivers as well as test to make sure the surround doesn’t hit the baffle as suggested in Bill’s plans (I alluded to this in a previous post but didn’t ask exactly how to hook everything up). I don’t want to fry my drivers and internet “how-to” searches show a lot of guys breaking in drivers, but no real “idiots guides” to doing it correctly without damaging your speakers. For anyone familiar with the Crown XLS series, what specific settings do I need to have my “Amp Mode,” “Crossover,” “Input Sensitivity” set to for the surround/baffle test and for the breaking in process? and should I use the “Factory Reset” option to reset the amp so there’s nothing set in the background that could cause issues?
Do a reset to get everything back to square one. Amp Mode is Stereo Y input - that means that the mono ouput from your driverack goes into channel one and the amp parallels that signal to channel 2.

-When I do test the surround/baffle clearance test and break in I’ll use a 3.5mm to RCA to go from my Macbook to the amp and I assume one RCA plug (red or white) is the input for channel 1 and the other is the input for channel 2 (according to the inputs on the back of the amp). If that’s the case, if I’m only testing one driver through channel 1 I would only need to hook up the one RCA input into the channel 1 input, correct? Then I will just use my speaker wire to run from my amp’s output side channel 1 red (amp) to red (driver) and black (amp) to black (driver), correct?
Because of the Y input you did above, just plug into channel 1 with your Mac. Send a 30hz signal to the amp. Use your volt meter (no speakers hooked up yet) and increase the volume on the amp until you reach 10 volts. Do this for channel 2 also. Once they are both at 10 volts, stop the signal and hook up the speakers (do both at once). Start the signal and let 'em run for 10-12 hours.
Hang 'em up in space with a coat hanger or just place 'em on their side/back and let 'em rip.


-I purchased the Tuba 30 kit from speakerhardware.com and plan to install speakon connector dishes (jack plate) on panels 7 & 10. Obviously I will have to make sure that these are airtight...would you suggest sealing around the connector dish with PL Premium adhesive since it expands and it’ll REALLY do the job, but that will likely also limit me from ever removing the connector dishes in the future if I have an issue (not sure that I’d ever need to remove them, just thinking ahead), or should I seal around the connector dish with acrylic latex caulk?
The dish should have come with a gasket. Just use that.

I appreciate your help and the opinions of you guys that have built several cabs before. Thanks again!
-Jeff
Thanks again Bruce. So even when I test & break in the speakers I will be running through both my driverack and amp? I didn’t realize I had to go through the driverack as well when doing the test. As far as the amp (or driverack) settings go, what settings do I use for the crossover and “Input Sensitivity”? Or does “Stereo Y” input bypass the need for crossover and sensitivity settings? Sorry that I know zero about amps (but definitely trying to learn before I become too dangerous to those around me)...

Bruce Weldy
Posts: 6807
Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
Location: New Braunfels, TX

Re: 2x Tuba 30 Build (First Build)

#7 Post by Bruce Weldy » Tue Sep 03, 2019 3:16 pm

jdthorpe wrote:
Tue Sep 03, 2019 3:11 pm

Thanks again Bruce. So even when I test & break in the speakers I will be running through both my driverack and amp? I didn’t realize I had to go through the driverack as well when doing the test. As far as the amp (or driverack) settings go, what settings do I use for the crossover and “Input Sensitivity”? Or does “Stereo Y” input bypass the need for crossover and sensitivity settings? Sorry that I know zero about amps (but definitely trying to learn before I become too dangerous to those around me)...
You don't need to run through the driverack for the break-in....that was just the way to set it up when you are ready to make noise.

You don't need the crossover on the amp for anything - you'll use the driverack for that when you put it all together. The reset of the amp will put the amp back to the input sensitivity that is needed.

6 - T39 4-25" 2-22" 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512 Melded/NSD2005
1 - T24
2 - XF210


"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."

jdthorpe
Posts: 32
Joined: Wed Jul 03, 2019 8:55 pm

Re: 2x Tuba 30 Build (First Build)

#8 Post by jdthorpe » Tue Sep 03, 2019 3:51 pm

Perfect. Thanks again Bruce...you’re always very helpful.

Bruce Weldy
Posts: 6807
Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
Location: New Braunfels, TX

Re: 2x Tuba 30 Build (First Build)

#9 Post by Bruce Weldy » Tue Sep 03, 2019 3:58 pm

jdthorpe wrote:
Tue Sep 03, 2019 3:51 pm
Perfect. Thanks again Bruce...you’re always very helpful.
Thanks, but I mostly just make stuff up.... :mrgreen:

6 - T39 4-25" 2-22" 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512 Melded/NSD2005
1 - T24
2 - XF210


"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."

jjlangdon
Posts: 22
Joined: Tue Jul 16, 2019 10:52 am

Re: 2x Tuba 30 Build (First Build)

#10 Post by jjlangdon » Wed Sep 04, 2019 10:48 am

Can't wait to see the build! I Just finished mine(actually 1 thread before this one from what I can see!). I found speakon connectors(male and female....I went with 90-degree male) super cheap for a 4-pack on amazon. Saved me a few bucks. Just drilled the holes, installed the wiring, and PL the inside up nice and tight! Good luck while making wood dust! :-)

Bruce Weldy
Posts: 6807
Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
Location: New Braunfels, TX

Re: 2x Tuba 30 Build (First Build)

#11 Post by Bruce Weldy » Wed Sep 04, 2019 11:26 am

jjlangdon wrote:
Wed Sep 04, 2019 10:48 am
I went with 90-degree male) super cheap for a 4-pack on amazon. Saved me a few bucks.
Careful with those super cheap knock-off speakons. Often, they are too tight in the jack or break. Stick with Neutrik - they are perfect every time. But don't buy 'em on Amazon - they are always twice as expensive there from any seller but PE. So, you might as well just order from PE.

6 - T39 4-25" 2-22" 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512 Melded/NSD2005
1 - T24
2 - XF210


"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."

jjlangdon
Posts: 22
Joined: Tue Jul 16, 2019 10:52 am

Re: 2x Tuba 30 Build (First Build)

#12 Post by jjlangdon » Wed Sep 04, 2019 11:37 am

Bruce Weldy wrote:
Wed Sep 04, 2019 11:26 am
jjlangdon wrote:
Wed Sep 04, 2019 10:48 am
I went with 90-degree male) super cheap for a 4-pack on amazon. Saved me a few bucks.
Careful with those super cheap knock-off speakons. Often, they are too tight in the jack or break. Stick with Neutrik - they are perfect every time. But don't buy 'em on Amazon - they are always twice as expensive there from any seller but PE. So, you might as well just order from PE.
I tried to do a bit of research, and ended up getting literally what you just suggested("Neutrik NL4FRX 4-Pin Cable MT Speak-On SPX R/A" was the title on amazon) for the 90- degree males. They were on sale through that seller and I got 4 of them for $5.00 each. Only a dollar or so cheaper than P.E.....If I was ordering anything else from PE, I certainly would have just gone through them!

I purchased the male speakon connectors about 8 months ago, and I cannot get a link. When I search my order history and click on them, it says "Item no longer available". This is the link to the sockets(female) I went with. A nice, tight, smooth twist-lock action. No air leaks and no rattles from the sub. ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KV ... UTF8&psc=1 )

Bruce Weldy
Posts: 6807
Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
Location: New Braunfels, TX

Re: 2x Tuba 30 Build (First Build)

#13 Post by Bruce Weldy » Wed Sep 04, 2019 2:09 pm

jjlangdon wrote:
Wed Sep 04, 2019 11:37 am

I tried to do a bit of research, and ended up getting literally what you just suggested("Neutrik NL4FRX 4-Pin Cable MT Speak-On SPX R/A" was the title on amazon) for the 90- degree males. They were on sale through that seller and I got 4 of them for $5.00 each.
Well, in that case - ya' done good! I've never seen real speakons cheap on Amazon.....and I buy tons of stuff there. XLRs either - I just use PE for all connectors now....just got in 50 XLRs last week....

6 - T39 4-25" 2-22" 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512 Melded/NSD2005
1 - T24
2 - XF210


"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."

jjlangdon
Posts: 22
Joined: Tue Jul 16, 2019 10:52 am

Re: 2x Tuba 30 Build (First Build)

#14 Post by jjlangdon » Wed Sep 04, 2019 2:36 pm

Bruce Weldy wrote:
Wed Sep 04, 2019 2:09 pm


Well, in that case - ya' done good! I've never seen real speakons cheap on Amazon.....and I buy tons of stuff there. XLRs either - I just use PE for all connectors now....just got in 50 XLRs last week....
50?! Wowza! I aspire to need to order in bulk like that for audio equipment someday. I do custom woodworking as a side business, but my THT(build thread posted a week ago) was my first dip into diy audio...and I got the bug! :noob:

Bruce Weldy
Posts: 6807
Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
Location: New Braunfels, TX

Re: 2x Tuba 30 Build (First Build)

#15 Post by Bruce Weldy » Wed Sep 04, 2019 2:56 pm

I can't even count the number of connectors I've soldered over the last 10 years.....it's certainly in the hundreds if not thousands. I actually enjoy making cables and rack panels. I didn't really need that many right now, but I was out and PE has a price break at 25, so got that many of Males and Females....I know I'll use 'em all up at some point.....I always do.

6 - T39 4-25" 2-22" 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512 Melded/NSD2005
1 - T24
2 - XF210


"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."

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