Jack 15 TKOs Peavey
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- Posts: 8301
- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
- Location: New Braunfels, TX
Jack 15 TKOs Peavey
Starting a project - thought I'd share with you Build Thread Junkies....you voyeurs of all things pre and post sawdust....
My friend Mike plays drums in our band as well as working sound jobs with me. He's also a bass player in a Tom Petty Tribute band and sometimes lurker here on the Forum.....methinks he will become a little more involved while this is going on......
He picked up this Peavey TKO some time back. If you've lifted one, you know that they are stupid heavy. So, the conversation started with turning it into a Head/Cab configuration, building a new cab out of 1/2". Of course at some point, I mentioned the Jack 15. The Peavey Black Widow actually matches up nicely with the specs for a Jack 15 with the exception of the xmax. But, since this head only puts out 75 watts at 8 ohms, that shouldn't be a problem. It will still be way better than the cab it's in right now.
So, journey begins ........ morphing this 80 pound combo into a head and Jack 15.
My friend Mike plays drums in our band as well as working sound jobs with me. He's also a bass player in a Tom Petty Tribute band and sometimes lurker here on the Forum.....methinks he will become a little more involved while this is going on......
He picked up this Peavey TKO some time back. If you've lifted one, you know that they are stupid heavy. So, the conversation started with turning it into a Head/Cab configuration, building a new cab out of 1/2". Of course at some point, I mentioned the Jack 15. The Peavey Black Widow actually matches up nicely with the specs for a Jack 15 with the exception of the xmax. But, since this head only puts out 75 watts at 8 ohms, that shouldn't be a problem. It will still be way better than the cab it's in right now.
So, journey begins ........ morphing this 80 pound combo into a head and Jack 15.
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
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- Posts: 8301
- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
- Location: New Braunfels, TX
Re: Jack 15 TKOs Peavey
First order of business was lining out all the pieces I'd need to do this makeover. Parts should be arriving this afternoon.
I started getting the amp ready for it's new home. We decided to do some upgrades on it. Get rid of the attached AC cord and install an IEC jack along with a combo Speakon/1/4" jack. The cab will get the same jack. A speakon cable will be used, but it never hurts to have the ability to plug in a standard speaker cable if you have to.
While waiting for the IEC connector, I went ahead and got the locations set and marked. The speakon is the standard D series and I have a Grennlee 15/16 Punch for that. If you've ever built rack panels with a step-bit and a drill - you know what a mess it is with shavings everywhere. I wish I'd have bought the punch years ago. Well worth the investment if you makes hole very often.
First up is to drill a 3/8" hole.
Then use the screw on the punch and start cranking until it cuts the hole.
I started getting the amp ready for it's new home. We decided to do some upgrades on it. Get rid of the attached AC cord and install an IEC jack along with a combo Speakon/1/4" jack. The cab will get the same jack. A speakon cable will be used, but it never hurts to have the ability to plug in a standard speaker cable if you have to.
While waiting for the IEC connector, I went ahead and got the locations set and marked. The speakon is the standard D series and I have a Grennlee 15/16 Punch for that. If you've ever built rack panels with a step-bit and a drill - you know what a mess it is with shavings everywhere. I wish I'd have bought the punch years ago. Well worth the investment if you makes hole very often.
First up is to drill a 3/8" hole.
Then use the screw on the punch and start cranking until it cuts the hole.
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
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- Posts: 8301
- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
- Location: New Braunfels, TX
Re: Jack 15 TKOs Peavey
I started building the box, but wanted to make sure you could access the knobs better, so I made a cutout in the top to make visibility better especially when it's sitting down low on top of the cab.....Mike's 6'5", to it's hard to see from that far away....
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
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- Posts: 8301
- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
- Location: New Braunfels, TX
Re: Jack 15 TKOs Peavey
Assembled the box. The head is about 3 inches tall in the back of the amp, but only a little over 2" in the front.
So a filler needed to be added. Unfortunately, it was thicker than 3/4", so I went to my trusty I-never-throw-any-wood-away pile in the back of the garage and found a piece that I had ripped from a 2x4 years ago......it was little under and inch and was perfect....just cut it to length.
So a filler needed to be added. Unfortunately, it was thicker than 3/4", so I went to my trusty I-never-throw-any-wood-away pile in the back of the garage and found a piece that I had ripped from a 2x4 years ago......it was little under and inch and was perfect....just cut it to length.
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
Re: Jack 15 TKOs Peavey
Oooo this looks cool already!
2 - OTop8
2 - T39
8 - DR200
2 - DR250
9 - T24
6 - T45
1 - Auto Tuba
2 - T39
8 - DR200
2 - DR250
9 - T24
6 - T45
1 - Auto Tuba
Re: Jack 15 TKOs Peavey
Looks great, can it work to build a amp rack in the same way ? Thinking of building 2 x 2U units and one 1 x 1U unit with corner protections to make it easy to stack. So basicly a modular amp rack
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- Location: Vancouver BC & Bloomington IN
Re: Jack 15 TKOs Peavey
Awesome, Bruce. I love the viewing cutout. This will be fun to watch. Thanks for posting the build.
2xT30 (20", 3012LF)
2xT30 (21", 3012LF)
4xOtop J-array (Beta12, melded/straight piezos)
Truck Tuba (MCM)
Next up: 2xJack12 or family of table tubas
2xT30 (21", 3012LF)
4xOtop J-array (Beta12, melded/straight piezos)
Truck Tuba (MCM)
Next up: 2xJack12 or family of table tubas
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- Posts: 8301
- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
- Location: New Braunfels, TX
Re: Jack 15 TKOs Peavey
Trying to finish up the additions to the amp chassis today and the Dremel tool I was using to cut the hole for the IEC connector died.....and of course, it was my neighbor's tool. Brushes seized up and wouldn't come out of the holder.
Costs $6 bucks more to get a brand new one shipped to my door (along with accessories) than to send it in to be fixed. Thanks Amazon.....it'll be here Friday.
In the meantime, I'm done for the day ..... playing a gig tonight before fireworks, think I'll rest up. Ya'll have a great 4th!
Costs $6 bucks more to get a brand new one shipped to my door (along with accessories) than to send it in to be fixed. Thanks Amazon.....it'll be here Friday.
In the meantime, I'm done for the day ..... playing a gig tonight before fireworks, think I'll rest up. Ya'll have a great 4th!
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
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- Posts: 8301
- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
- Location: New Braunfels, TX
Re: Jack 15 TKOs Peavey
Well, the 4th of July gig went well. Got to play on a big stage through a d&b line array PA with some Radian monitors. Nice sounding rig all the way around.....and I didn't have to set it up!
Meanwhile, back at ranch, I was eagerly awaiting the new Dremel and got to work on some of the little stuff.
Got the handle holes drilled and the holes for the feet.
In lining up the holes for the feet, I realized that the fuse holder would be in the way of the screw holding one of the feet.......so, gotta' move the fuse holder down a little. Drilled a new hole and voila!
Since I was killing time, figured I'd go ahead and install the Speakon/1/4" connector. Never installed one from behind before, so I did.....just because I wanted to.
Looking good....
Meanwhile, back at ranch, I was eagerly awaiting the new Dremel and got to work on some of the little stuff.
Got the handle holes drilled and the holes for the feet.
In lining up the holes for the feet, I realized that the fuse holder would be in the way of the screw holding one of the feet.......so, gotta' move the fuse holder down a little. Drilled a new hole and voila!
Since I was killing time, figured I'd go ahead and install the Speakon/1/4" connector. Never installed one from behind before, so I did.....just because I wanted to.
Looking good....
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
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- Posts: 8301
- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
- Location: New Braunfels, TX
Re: Jack 15 TKOs Peavey
Took a break and when I went back outside, the Amazon driver was delivering the new Dremel.....My neighbor came over and we opened it like a couple of kids on Christmas morning. Did the recommended burn in to set the brushes and went to work on the IEC connector hole.....
Took all of 30 seconds to finish the last cut. Cleaned it up with the burr tip and here we go...
Soldered the power leads.... Put a little heat shrink on 'em ..... didn't need to.....but, I hadn't used my heat gun in a while..... And there ya' go. The old attached AC cable is gone and it's replaced with a new, modern IEC socket so that you can leave your AC cable at home and hope to borrow one at the gig....
Tested the amp - holy Moses! IT WORKED! Who'd a thought it?
Took all of 30 seconds to finish the last cut. Cleaned it up with the burr tip and here we go...
Soldered the power leads.... Put a little heat shrink on 'em ..... didn't need to.....but, I hadn't used my heat gun in a while..... And there ya' go. The old attached AC cable is gone and it's replaced with a new, modern IEC socket so that you can leave your AC cable at home and hope to borrow one at the gig....
Tested the amp - holy Moses! IT WORKED! Who'd a thought it?
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
-
- Posts: 8301
- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
- Location: New Braunfels, TX
Re: Jack 15 TKOs Peavey
I'm sure that right about now you are thinking, "What the hell? Isn't this a Jack 15 build thread?"
Ok, Ok......I've put it off long enough. Time for some plywood porn....
But first.....
One thing I always do is print a cutlist - however, this time I didn't have to since Bill was kind enough to include one in the plans (for which I purchased another set since this build isn't for me....I'm sure someone was about to ask).
The other thing I always do is to sit down with the cutlist and make a list of the cut order. Every cut is mapped out so that every cut of one dimension is done at the same time. This ensures that every piece is exactly the same - this results in a much more square project. It takes some thought and you have to make some cuts and label the leftover panels for when you do the next cut, but it's well worth it.
I cut pretty much every part except for those needing some bevels - those will come later.
Drew the outlines as per the plans....On the top and the bottom. The top drawing is on the inside of the cab to better line it up when it's time to glue it up.
Then slapped 'em together and clamped down before drilling the pilot holes through both pieces. I drill my pilot holes big enough for the screws to push through. I don't want 'em to lift the panel when setting the screws.
I also always line up and dry fit the panels so that the screw holes are already started. Once that PL starts oozing out, it can be hard to see your alignment marks.
Next, I drew the baffle layout. This time I decided to use the router and a circle guide to cut the round portions. Just eyeballed it to the spoke line. Going a little deeper on each pass....
Then it was just cutting the rest with the jigsaw and adding the holes and cutouts....
That's it for today.....should be more tomorrow.
Ok, Ok......I've put it off long enough. Time for some plywood porn....
But first.....
One thing I always do is print a cutlist - however, this time I didn't have to since Bill was kind enough to include one in the plans (for which I purchased another set since this build isn't for me....I'm sure someone was about to ask).
The other thing I always do is to sit down with the cutlist and make a list of the cut order. Every cut is mapped out so that every cut of one dimension is done at the same time. This ensures that every piece is exactly the same - this results in a much more square project. It takes some thought and you have to make some cuts and label the leftover panels for when you do the next cut, but it's well worth it.
I cut pretty much every part except for those needing some bevels - those will come later.
Drew the outlines as per the plans....On the top and the bottom. The top drawing is on the inside of the cab to better line it up when it's time to glue it up.
Then slapped 'em together and clamped down before drilling the pilot holes through both pieces. I drill my pilot holes big enough for the screws to push through. I don't want 'em to lift the panel when setting the screws.
I also always line up and dry fit the panels so that the screw holes are already started. Once that PL starts oozing out, it can be hard to see your alignment marks.
Next, I drew the baffle layout. This time I decided to use the router and a circle guide to cut the round portions. Just eyeballed it to the spoke line. Going a little deeper on each pass....
Then it was just cutting the rest with the jigsaw and adding the holes and cutouts....
That's it for today.....should be more tomorrow.
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
Re: Jack 15 TKOs Peavey
Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Sun Jul 07, 2019 3:18 pm
And there ya' go. The old attached AC cable is gone and it's replaced with a new, modern IEC socket so that you can leave your AC cable at home and hope to borrow one at the gig....
TomS
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- Posts: 8301
- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
- Location: New Braunfels, TX
Re: Jack 15 TKOs Peavey
While I had the circle jig set up for 6 inches, I went ahead and cut the 3 phase plugs and the smaller 5 inch phase plug. I made a down and dirty jig to sand 'em smooth on my oscillating sander.
Oh, and here's the baffle....
And with the phase plug...
I'm deviating from the plans a little here in that I've glued up all the phase plugs ahead of time. Then I positioned them in place on the baffle and screwed it into place. I marked the orientation on the baffle and I'll put it back on as a unit when it's time.
Now for a tip.....I posted this years ago when I built some Wedgehorn 10s..... When cutting long angled cuts - it's not always possible to do on a miter saw or in this case, the spacer ring wouldn't fit in my dedicated table saw sled. So, what you do is get a piece of scrap plywood (I used the one from years ago...I don't throw away wood..). Run it though the table saw....doesn't matter how wide. Just get a clean edge. Put the sled right against the blade and bring in the fence. Now you can use the edge of the sled as an alignment tool.
I put the spacer ring on the sled - eyeballed it to get the cut line correct, then screwed the cutoff to the sled. Then just run it through the saw.
Do that 4 times and you get a much better cut than doing it with a circular saw or a jig saw.
Oh, and here's the baffle....
And with the phase plug...
I'm deviating from the plans a little here in that I've glued up all the phase plugs ahead of time. Then I positioned them in place on the baffle and screwed it into place. I marked the orientation on the baffle and I'll put it back on as a unit when it's time.
Now for a tip.....I posted this years ago when I built some Wedgehorn 10s..... When cutting long angled cuts - it's not always possible to do on a miter saw or in this case, the spacer ring wouldn't fit in my dedicated table saw sled. So, what you do is get a piece of scrap plywood (I used the one from years ago...I don't throw away wood..). Run it though the table saw....doesn't matter how wide. Just get a clean edge. Put the sled right against the blade and bring in the fence. Now you can use the edge of the sled as an alignment tool.
I put the spacer ring on the sled - eyeballed it to get the cut line correct, then screwed the cutoff to the sled. Then just run it through the saw.
Do that 4 times and you get a much better cut than doing it with a circular saw or a jig saw.
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
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- Posts: 8301
- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
- Location: New Braunfels, TX
Re: Jack 15 TKOs Peavey
While I had that sled out, it hit me that the back braces had some long angled cuts to make. So, I used the same method. Ran a 6 inch wide board at the proper angle. Then repeated the process on the other two sides essentially making and X in the 6 inch board to make the 3 inch tall tapered braces. I cut the other two braces and put it together as an assembly.....then I'll just put the whole thing on to the back at one time. Used my square jibs to keep it nice and true while the glue dries.
Well, all the parts, except the back are cut and ready to assemble.....time to put on the gloves and break out the PL....
Once again, I deviated a little from the plans. After putting together the throat panels and port ducts, I put in the throat reflectors instead of waiting until after the assembly is attached to the top and bottom. It'll be easier to clean it up and do some sanding before the top and bottom go on. Then the throat braces went on and now it's time to go to lunch....it's Mexican Food Tuesday!
Top and bottom will go on this afternoon.....might even get the whole thing buttoned up....depends on how long my after-lunch nap is....hey, I'm old....I'm entitled.
Well, all the parts, except the back are cut and ready to assemble.....time to put on the gloves and break out the PL....
Once again, I deviated a little from the plans. After putting together the throat panels and port ducts, I put in the throat reflectors instead of waiting until after the assembly is attached to the top and bottom. It'll be easier to clean it up and do some sanding before the top and bottom go on. Then the throat braces went on and now it's time to go to lunch....it's Mexican Food Tuesday!
Top and bottom will go on this afternoon.....might even get the whole thing buttoned up....depends on how long my after-lunch nap is....hey, I'm old....I'm entitled.
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
Re: Jack 15 TKOs Peavey
Good looking job there! I have been toying with doing a similar project with my old Peavey TNT 130 Bass amp... Put the head in a dedicated box, then build 2 cabinets, one for Bass (that has better lows), and one for Steel Guitar that is lighter than my 3 Peavey Steel amps (aka Mississippi Marshalls!). I'm really enjoying this skillful build project of yours.