Kreg screws?
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Kreg screws?
Would it be okay to use the Kreg screw system to build a Tuba HT box? Also, can 3/4" plywood be used and is that overkill to help the rigidity?
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Re: Kreg screws?
Welcome to the forum
Sure, use Kreg screws if you want.
Stick to the plans, and use 1/2" ply. If 3/4" ply was necessary, it would be specified in the plans.
Using anything other than 1/2" ply, from the outset, requires redrawing the plans...
Sure, use Kreg screws if you want.
Stick to the plans, and use 1/2" ply. If 3/4" ply was necessary, it would be specified in the plans.
Using anything other than 1/2" ply, from the outset, requires redrawing the plans...
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
Re: Kreg screws?
I thought about using those when I set out to build my first T39 sub. I had used them on shelves and things at home. After experimenting with PL glue I realized I needed no screws at all. I bought an electric brad nail gun and never looked back. The brads simple wood the wood in place while the glue cures. As for 3/4 inch ply, its simply not necessary. The designs include bracing and these speakers can take a beating.
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- Joined: Sun Oct 21, 2018 10:05 am
Re: my Tuba HT is built and in my home.
If I can figure out how to post a few photos, I will.
Re: Kreg screws?
The THT is crazy rigid with 1/2", the complex internal structure provides plenty of bracing. No worries
2xJ15, THT, 4xT39 3012 (2x15", 2x20"), 2xSLA Pro, 2x short SLA Pro (Dayton), W6
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- Posts: 599
- Joined: Fri Nov 13, 2015 9:34 pm
- Location: Vancouver BC & Bloomington IN
Re: Kreg screws?
Pocket screws are great, I use them all the time on projects since realizing how easy and useful they are. However, I wouldn't even try with these cabs. I have an 18g brad nailer and a 23g pin nailer. Along with PL and some clamps, you don't need anything more. I especially love the pin nailer since there's no safety and you can quickly secure pieces so they don't move while the adhesive cures. They aren't strong enough as a method to join panels on their own, but with the adhesive they don't need to. I've put biscuits in a few places, but that probably wasn't necessary either. Also, I would think tight spaces would make using the Kreg driver very difficult. I've found that to be an issue even with a right-angle driver and shortened bits on internal angled joints.
2xT30 (20", 3012LF)
2xT30 (21", 3012LF)
4xOtop J-array (Beta12, melded/straight piezos)
Truck Tuba (MCM)
Next up: 2xJack12 or family of table tubas
2xT30 (21", 3012LF)
4xOtop J-array (Beta12, melded/straight piezos)
Truck Tuba (MCM)
Next up: 2xJack12 or family of table tubas