Simplexx 110 Build

[Das Jugghead]

There are variables, but a typical bass output at instrument level is around 100 millivolts signal strength, while a power amp may require 1.2 volts for full output. The pedal would have unity gain unless the boost is turned on, which would take the level up, but I can't say by how much.

Hey Bill thanks for the response. I will have to look around and see what the Carvin amp requires for signal strength. I am still trying to avoid selling the Carvin since I will never see anything close to what I paid for it (despite it having lived its entire life in my rack) and factor in that it is an orphan and the numbers just get even more depressing. If I can find a way to make the Zoom and the Carvin play together nicely then I will feel a little better about the situation. It may be that ultimately end up going with a bass amp proper and just chalk up the losses on the Carvin.

Here is another question: can I use a rack mount mixer? I could run the Zoom into the mixer and then the mixer into the Carvin?

What Bill's saying is true. In layman's terms, you are plugging a guitar level signal into your amp's line level input.....if you are just using a standard TS guitar cable.

Here's what the manual says...

L/MONO/PHONES Standard stereo phone jack (combined line/headphone)
Maximum output level:
Line +5 dBm (with output load impedance of 10 kΩ or more)
Headphones 15 mW +15 mW (into 32 Ω load)

It does say the L output is LINE level, so try using a TRS cable from the BN3 to the amp. If the output is truly line level - it will be a much hotter signal and will match better the input of the amp.

Since I don't know your level of expertise - TRS stand for Tip, Ring, Sleeve. Whereas, your guitar cable is TS, or just Tip, Sleeve.

So, get you a cable that looks like this.....or just get this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-HSS-005-Bal ... =trs+cable


But, this must be a direct connection between the unit and the amp - no other devices in between.

Thanks for the insight! I have a TRS to XLR and will try it out tomorrow to see what happens. I will check back tomorrow with results.

On another note I had to cancel rehearsal for Tuesday as I have managed to contract a particularly nasty stomach virus - odds are the rest of the band will have it in the next few days. So it will be awhile before I can run in the full band setting and see if it keeps up.

Thanks again to everyone who has chimed in here with feedback and advice - truly appreciated.

[Das Jugghead]

Okay so I hooked up the TRS to EXL cable today and played. I hear no discernible volume difference between using the balanced and unbalanced cables.

I will do an A/B comparison of the balanced and unbalanced cables in terms of clarity to see if there is any difference.


On the previous subject of incorporating a rack mount mixer into the rig I am looking at the below rack mount mixers and solicit your opinions and recommendations:

Sampson SM 10 Stereo Line Mixer https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SM10

Behringer Ultralink PRO MX882 splitter/mixer https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail ... r-splitter

Behringer Eurorack Pro RX1602 stereo line mixer https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/RX1602

I am aware of the reputation of the Behringer line but my understanding is that the quality issues were addressed. I am also aware of the stealing of designs (they were sued and judgement issued) as well as the displeasure with Behringer moving their production plant to China. My interest/query of the Behringer mixers above is focused more to the function and features so as to better understand what they do and how it relates or does not relate to what I am trying to accomplish.

I am particularly interested in hearing what kinds of things I should be looking for in terms of features as I really have no idea what I need or don't need. If you guys have other suggestions or recommendations I would be glad to hear them.

Thanks again in advance for your help and ongoing patience,

Toby

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

Behringer has always been made in China. The designs are good, but the hardware tends to be cheap. Before fixing anything that may not be broken does the amp have LED indicators? Does it reach the first red LED? If so it's getting enough signal strength.

[Bruce Weldy]

This just adds more complexity and a multi-channel device that will only use one channel, but it will get you to a line level output for sure.

Too bad the xlr to TRS didn't get more gain, but it's possible that the box isn't really putting out a line level signal....hard to tell without any true specs. Stomp boxes aren't typically designed to work that way anyway.

Ultimately, I still think you will be happier with a true bass amp. I understand your thinking - but, I think you are going left around the block to get you your neighbor to the right. It's a shorter trip if you go the other way. But, it will cost a few bucks if you want to keep the Carvin, too.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

I still think you will be happier with a true bass amp.

There's an easy test, borrow one.

[Das Jugghead]

Behringer has always been made in China. The designs are good, but the hardware tends to be cheap. Before fixing anything that may not be broken does the amp have LED indicators? Does it reach the first red LED? If so it's getting enough signal strength.

Indeed the Carvin has LED indicators the bottom green one lights up and the rest light up progressively as I turn up the volume on the Carvin while playing.

[Das Jugghead]

This just adds more complexity and a multi-channel device that will only use one channel, but it will get you to a line level output for sure.

I actually use both channels on the Carvin as the B3n has a left and right output.

Too bad the xlr to TRS didn't get more gain, but it's possible that the box isn't really putting out a line level signal....hard to tell without any true specs. Stomp boxes aren't typically designed to work that way anyway.

Just as a test I hooked up to the Carvin 215 cabinet which has two 500 watt speakers and played through that - WOW!! Those louder speakers definitely make the difference. I think switching out the current BP102's with Kappa Pro-10LF will get me to where I want to be.

Ultimately, I still think you will be happier with a true bass amp. I understand your thinking - but, I think you are going left around the block to get you your neighbor to the right. It's a shorter trip if you go the other way. But, it will cost a few bucks if you want to keep the Carvin, too.

I completely agree with your analogy. It may well be that I am going to have to try out a true bass amp to see what's what. I may have to bite the bullet and revamp the amp (ahhh - see what I did there?) and go from there.

[Das Jugghead]

Gentlemen pray suffer me yet a further round of novice questions.

On the issue of boosting the signal from the Zoom B3n to the Carvin DCM 3800l power amp I am considering using this based on research and feedback from other bassists who plug their basses into this and then into a power amp:

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail ... art-tps-ii

On the issue of EQ since a true bass amp has an EQ section as part of the preamp I am considering the use of this as well:

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/215S--dbx-215s

Your feedback, criticisms, advice, observations, and insights are gratefully accepted in advance. To refresh your memory I am trying to find a work around to losing money on the Carvin power amp and purchasing a new true bass amp.

Thank you

[Bruce Weldy]

Gentlemen pray suffer me yet a further round of novice questions.

On the issue of boosting the signal from the Zoom B3n to the Carvin DCM 3800l power amp I am considering using this based on research and feedback from other bassists who plug their basses into this and then into a power amp:

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail ... art-tps-ii

On the issue of EQ since a true bass amp has an EQ section as part of the preamp I am considering the use of this as well:

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/215S--dbx-215s

Your feedback, criticisms, advice, observations, and insights are gratefully accepted in advance. To refresh your memory I am trying to find a work around to losing money on the Carvin power amp and purchasing a new true bass amp.

Thank you

sooooo.....you are looking to spend over $300 to try and keep a Carvin power amp that you got for a good price? If that amp cost $300 less than you can pick one up all day long - then do it. If not - well.....you know the answer.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

I think switching out the current BP102's with Kappa Pro-10LF will get me to where I want to be.

Probably not. My assumption is that old Carvin has fairly high Qts drivers, which along with their larger cone area results in high sensitivity centered around 90-100Hz. Kappa Pro 10LF will be even less sensitive in that range than BP102. If you were to come to me before embarking on this asking what direct radiator cabs would be better than the Carvin I'd have said a pair of Simplexx 15. I know that you did the S10s to make use of the drivers you had, but still tens don't beat fifteens unless you horn load them.

[Das Jugghead]

Gentlemen pray suffer me yet a further round of novice questions.

On the issue of boosting the signal from the Zoom B3n to the Carvin DCM 3800l power amp I am considering using this based on research and feedback from other bassists who plug their basses into this and then into a power amp:

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail ... art-tps-ii

On the issue of EQ since a true bass amp has an EQ section as part of the preamp I am considering the use of this as well:

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/215S--dbx-215s

Your feedback, criticisms, advice, observations, and insights are gratefully accepted in advance. To refresh your memory I am trying to find a work around to losing money on the Carvin power amp and purchasing a new true bass amp.

Thank you

sooooo.....you are looking to spend over $300 to try and keep a Carvin power amp that you got for a good price? If that amp cost $300 less than you can pick one up all day long - then do it. If not - well.....you know the answer.

Yeah its one of those situations where I should just stop while I am only this far behind. I would not say I got the Carvin for a good price - I paid over $700 for it. I cannot sell it, let alone get anything close to that for it, as no one is interested in a white elephant. Having said that I have to bite the bullet since it will never do what I need it to do as a bassist. It will be fine for running the band PA if we end up getting a PA but nearly everywhere we will play already has a house PA.

I think switching out the current BP102's with Kappa Pro-10LF will get me to where I want to be.

Probably not. My assumption is that old Carvin has fairly high Qts drivers, which along with their larger cone area results in high sensitivity centered around 90-100Hz. Kappa Pro 10LF will be even less sensitive in that range than BP102. If you were to come to me before embarking on this asking what direct radiator cabs would be better than the Carvin I'd have said a pair of Simplexx 15. I know that you did the S10s to make use of the drivers you had, but still tens don't beat fifteens unless you horn load them.

Hey Bill thanks for the response. Yes, the ideal and intelligent thing to do would have been to ask you first. At this point I have thrown more more than I care to admit at this. Maybe a set of fifteens are in my future. This leads to a couple of more questions.

I have two other BP102's. Would building another set of Simplexx 110's help out? By increasing cone area by virtue of another pair of drivers would I get what I am after? If this is the case then perhaps I will do that.

I did not build these with tweeters - would tweeters make any difference in clarity or cutting through the band?

If I were starting completely from scratch without having made the poor decisions I have made thus far what cabinet would you recommend for bass guitar playing hard/prog rock?

Many thanks again.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

Another pair of the same would increase sensitivity by 6dB. BP102 have poor midrange, and no highs, so IMO BGH tweeters would be a must. I'd also find a way to try what you have with a real bass amp before doing anything else. FWIW I use a Jack 12 Lite.

[Das Jugghead]

Another pair of the same would increase sensitivity by 6dB. BP102 have poor midrange, and no highs, so IMO BGH tweeters would be a must. I'd also find a way to try what you have with a real bass amp before doing anything else. FWIW I use a Jack 12 Lite.

Copy that and thank you. I am ordering the Hartke TX600 today and will report back on how things go.

[Das Jugghead]

So the Hartke TX 600 arrived today and with much excitement I hooked it up to my two cabinets. The Hartke TX 600 is advertised to produce 600 watts. I have two 8 ohm speakers rated at 200 watts RMS. The cabinets are connected in parallel so my understanding is that this results in a 4 ohm load and 400 watts. There is no way in the world this amp is producing 600 watts. No way. Maybe 100 watts - and that is being generous. It is the weakest amp I have ever played in my life. I had both the gain and the volume maxed out and the speakers were nowhere near their maximum output. I had a 200 watt Hartke amp a few years back that was WAY WAY louder than this one. Amp is surprisingly light but disappointingly vastly over-hyped in its output. I am sending it back.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

Sad to hear that. I don't know how they're rating amps these days, but it's not like they used to. I never found a 100 watt Fender Showman wanting, and my first SS amp, a 130w Peavey, was always plenty. I'd still be using a Hartke 3500 if it wasn't so heavy to lug about. My current Ashdown Superfly is Class D, only rated 160w/8 ohms, but it's adequate through my Jack 12.