Yet Another Table Tuba Build
Yet Another Table Tuba Build
Hello,
I did this build last December, and I have finally gotten a chance to upload all the photos.
I built it essentially according to the plans: 1/2" BB plywood and the recommended driver.
I happened to have a brad nailer (a fairly basic one from Harbor Freight), and it was very handy.
BTW, I had no trouble cutting all the pieces from two 5x5 sheets of plywood, thanks to the "cutlist" software.
I did this build last December, and I have finally gotten a chance to upload all the photos.
I built it essentially according to the plans: 1/2" BB plywood and the recommended driver.
I happened to have a brad nailer (a fairly basic one from Harbor Freight), and it was very handy.
BTW, I had no trouble cutting all the pieces from two 5x5 sheets of plywood, thanks to the "cutlist" software.
Last edited by Dougbert on Mon Aug 31, 2015 11:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Yet Another Table Tuba Build
More photos, as the assembly begins.
The cutting table was really handy!
The cutting table was really handy!
Re: Yet Another Table Tuba Build
The assembly continues.
I misunderstood the part in the plans abut mounting the driver. I didn't realize
that I should use wood screws, threaded directly into the wood. I did make
sure that the T-nuts were securely glued into place.
I misunderstood the part in the plans abut mounting the driver. I didn't realize
that I should use wood screws, threaded directly into the wood. I did make
sure that the T-nuts were securely glued into place.
Last edited by Dougbert on Mon Aug 31, 2015 11:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Yet Another Table Tuba Build
Around and around I go...
Re: Yet Another Table Tuba Build
At the beginning of the assembly, I forgot to mark up the top panel with the locations of the inner pieces.
But I thought up an even better way: I placed a large piece of tracing paper over the edges of the panels,
and marked their positions. Then I placed the tracing paper over the top panel and shot brads right through the paper.
But I thought up an even better way: I placed a large piece of tracing paper over the edges of the panels,
and marked their positions. Then I placed the tracing paper over the top panel and shot brads right through the paper.
Re: Yet Another Table Tuba Build
Final assembly and finishing: I used Minwax transparent stain, sanding sealer, and water-based polyurethane
simply because I had them lying around. Also, I wanted it to match the birch Ikea cabinets in my basement...
simply because I had them lying around. Also, I wanted it to match the birch Ikea cabinets in my basement...
Re: Yet Another Table Tuba Build
I sort of wish I had used a 10" driver... The additional cost would have been small compared to the time I spent.
But it is plenty loud enough with the MCM 55-2421 driver that I used.
I added a couple of handles- otherwise there was no way I could have gotten it down the basement stairs.
Most of the nicer-looking drawer pulls required mounting screws from behind, and obviously that would not work.
But I found these in Home Depot, and they sort of matched the other furniture.
Anyway, that's all. It has been part of my HT system since the beginning of the year,
along with a Onkyo TX-NR636 receiver, Onkyo speakers, and a Yung SD100 100 watt plate amp.
(I do wish I had gotten a more powerful place amp, though. The actual impedance of the speaker
is more than 4 ohms, so I don't get the full 100 watts.).
But it is plenty loud enough with the MCM 55-2421 driver that I used.
I added a couple of handles- otherwise there was no way I could have gotten it down the basement stairs.
Most of the nicer-looking drawer pulls required mounting screws from behind, and obviously that would not work.
But I found these in Home Depot, and they sort of matched the other furniture.
Anyway, that's all. It has been part of my HT system since the beginning of the year,
along with a Onkyo TX-NR636 receiver, Onkyo speakers, and a Yung SD100 100 watt plate amp.
(I do wish I had gotten a more powerful place amp, though. The actual impedance of the speaker
is more than 4 ohms, so I don't get the full 100 watts.).
- Chris_Allen
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- Location: Huddersfield, UK
Re: Yet Another Table Tuba Build
Lovely finish. I've used wax oil to get a similar finish on a desk.
Built:
6xDR200, 2xT39, 2xT48, 2xJack110, 1xOmni10.5, 1xAutotuba, 1xT18, 1xSLA Pro, 1xW8, 1xW10
6xDR200, 2xT39, 2xT48, 2xJack110, 1xOmni10.5, 1xAutotuba, 1xT18, 1xSLA Pro, 1xW8, 1xW10
Re: Yet Another Table Tuba Build
How does it work without the chamber opening closed? Is that a piece of clear plexiglass or something.
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- Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:12 am
- Location: Ilfracombe Queensland Australia
- Contact:
Re: Yet Another Table Tuba Build
johns811 wrote:How does it work without the chamber opening closed? Is that a piece of clear plexiglass or something.
As for the lack of a cover over the access, most bass horns seal the rear chamber to tune the cabinet response and apply restorative force to limit the excursion of the driver. The Table Tuba horn is long enough so that the air mass of the horn alone will tune the driver response and limit excursion. Excursion above 15Hz is unaffected by the lack of a cover. Moreover, the open chamber is a second sound source at very low frequencies, similar to the port of a bass reflex cab. To preserve the tuning of the cabinet the side with the access hole should be 1½ to 2 inches away from the boundary, be it a wall or floor. If you lay the cab on the floor use legs to lift it 1½ to 2 inches.
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
- Bill Fitzmaurice
- Site Admin
- Posts: 28646
- Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 5:59 pm
Re: Yet Another Table Tuba Build
Or you could have just said "It's in the plans".Grant Bunter wrote:johns811 wrote:How does it work without the chamber opening closed? Is that a piece of clear plexiglass or something.As for the lack of a cover over the access, most bass horns seal the rear chamber to tune the cabinet response and apply restorative force to limit the excursion of the driver. The Table Tuba horn is long enough so that the air mass of the horn alone will tune the driver response and limit excursion. Excursion above 15Hz is unaffected by the lack of a cover. Moreover, the open chamber is a second sound source at very low frequencies, similar to the port of a bass reflex cab. To preserve the tuning of the cabinet the side with the access hole should be 1½ to 2 inches away from the boundary, be it a wall or floor. If you lay the cab on the floor use legs to lift it 1½ to 2 inches.
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- Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:12 am
- Location: Ilfracombe Queensland Australia
- Contact:
Re: Yet Another Table Tuba Build
Ohhhh err yes I could have said that.Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:Or you could have just said "It's in the plans".Grant Bunter wrote:johns811 wrote:How does it work without the chamber opening closed? Is that a piece of clear plexiglass or something.As for the lack of a cover over the access, most bass horns seal the rear chamber to tune the cabinet response and apply restorative force to limit the excursion of the driver. The Table Tuba horn is long enough so that the air mass of the horn alone will tune the driver response and limit excursion. Excursion above 15Hz is unaffected by the lack of a cover. Moreover, the open chamber is a second sound source at very low frequencies, similar to the port of a bass reflex cab. To preserve the tuning of the cabinet the side with the access hole should be 1½ to 2 inches away from the boundary, be it a wall or floor. If you lay the cab on the floor use legs to lift it 1½ to 2 inches.
When answering it occurred to me that if Johns811 had the plans he wouldn't have asked the question.
Every now and again I try to be nice to people lol.
Speaking of which;
Dougbert,
Very nice clean build and finish.
Hope you're enjoying it
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
-
- Posts: 1384
- Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2011 9:23 am
Re: Yet Another Table Tuba Build
Nice build. What's that antique I see in the background of some of the photos? Ford Model A?
Re: Yet Another Table Tuba Build
looks like a model a engine to mebassmonster wrote:Nice build. What's that antique I see in the background of some of the photos? Ford Model A?
BFM builds:
XF212
T24 BP102 24"
2x SLA's 6-5" mids, 9- gt-302's
2x AT 14" MCM 55-2421
TrT 5" MCM 55-2421
AT 18" JBL GTO804
2x OT12 flat array
2x SLA Pro 2-Alpha 6's 2-Goldwoods
2x T39 24" 3012lf
Simplex 10 BP102
XF212
T24 BP102 24"
2x SLA's 6-5" mids, 9- gt-302's
2x AT 14" MCM 55-2421
TrT 5" MCM 55-2421
AT 18" JBL GTO804
2x OT12 flat array
2x SLA Pro 2-Alpha 6's 2-Goldwoods
2x T39 24" 3012lf
Simplex 10 BP102
Re: Yet Another Table Tuba Build
Thanks, I only built the T24 and a cover was mandatory. It thought they all needed covers.Grant Bunter wrote:johns811 wrote:How does it work without the chamber opening closed? Is that a piece of clear plexiglass or something.As for the lack of a cover over the access, most bass horns seal the rear chamber to tune the cabinet response and apply restorative force to limit the excursion of the driver. The Table Tuba horn is long enough so that the air mass of the horn alone will tune the driver response and limit excursion. Excursion above 15Hz is unaffected by the lack of a cover. Moreover, the open chamber is a second sound source at very low frequencies, similar to the port of a bass reflex cab. To preserve the tuning of the cabinet the side with the access hole should be 1½ to 2 inches away from the boundary, be it a wall or floor. If you lay the cab on the floor use legs to lift it 1½ to 2 inches.