New THT build to be mounted under the floor firing up. Since it won't be taking up any floor space, I am going to make it as big as possible. 33" wide will just fit into the house to test and will also just fit the crawl space door. I will build it, test it above the floor to find the best spot, then move it under the floor in the crawl space, which is about 7' tall where this cabinet will go. This will be the second THT to supplement my other THTLP. I will move the THTLP, to the other side of the living room.
Driver will be a Dayton Titantic 1200, old school goodness.
Specifications:
• Power handling: 350 watts RMS/ 450 watts max
• Voice coil diameter: 2"
• Voice coil inductance: 1.96 mH
• Nominal impedance: 4 ohms
• DC resistance: 3.66 ohms • Frequency response: 16-400 Hz
• Magnet weight: 84 oz.
• Fs: 16 Hz
• SPL:90dB 2.83V/1m
• Vas: 9.894 cu. ft.
• Qms: 8.22
• Qes: 0.42
• Qts: 0.407
• Xmax: 14.2 mm
• Net weight: 14.6 lbs.
• Dimensions: Overall Diameter: 12-1/8", Cutout Diameter: 11-1/8", Mounting Depth: 6-9/16", Magnet Diameter: 6", Magnet Height: 2-3/4"
Yes, it is a 12" driver in a 33" wide cabinet but the Titantic 1200 has specs very similar to the Dayton Audio RSS390HF-4 15"
and with a Fs of 16 Hz, it will favor a wider box.
Build Pictures:
images upload
temp image upload
This thing is a beast, going to need a step ladder to nail the last side panel.
Crap, made a mistake and put panel 4 in backwards Didn't notice until panel 6 was going in and the 4/6 brace cut out didn't match the speaker opening. Panel 4 and 5 were already dried, but a sawzall and some more PL, it is all good.
Panel 4 with the opening correct:
post image online
free image uploading
Triple braces needed for this wide a cabinet, the braces need their own temp braces while the PL cures :
images hosting
Trying a new tool with this build, the Harbor Freight 1/4" stapler and brad nailer. This tool works slick with the 1/4" staples, really has strong panel holding power. Definitely worth $20, hasn't jammed yet. The staples are easily countersunk with a flat bladed screw diver. This THT doesn't need an outside finish, but the throat will be finished since it will be seen.
screen cap
Homestretch
how do i print screen
Braces and throat primed:
photo upload sites
imgupload
This thing is a beast.
image upload no compression
33" THT Build Under Floor Mount
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- Posts: 136
- Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2014 8:24 am
33" THT Build Under Floor Mount
16.5" AT w/ Infinity 860w
TLAHs w/ 9 mids & 16 tweets
17" THTLP w/ Dayton RSS315HF-4
16" TAT w/ Infinity 1060w
18" TT w/ Dayton DCS-205-4
5.5" TrT w/ DCS-205-4
T-18 w/ DCS-205-4
33" THT w/ Dayton Titantic 1200
DR200s
TLAHs w/ 9 mids & 16 tweets
17" THTLP w/ Dayton RSS315HF-4
16" TAT w/ Infinity 1060w
18" TT w/ Dayton DCS-205-4
5.5" TrT w/ DCS-205-4
T-18 w/ DCS-205-4
33" THT w/ Dayton Titantic 1200
DR200s
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- Posts: 37
- Joined: Sun Apr 19, 2015 10:01 pm
Re: 33" THT Build Under Floor Mount
Very cool....I love seeing these builds. If I had the room, I'd love a wide THT. My narrow THTLP was big enough sounding...!
Re: 33" THT Build Under Floor Mount
Awesome. I considered doing something like this a few years ago and went another route.
I'm anxious to see the final product.
I'm anxious to see the final product.
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- Posts: 136
- Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2014 8:24 am
Re: 33" THT Build Under Floor Mount
Part II-
Front braces installed:
upload gifs
Looking at the speaker and taking outside dimensions, I noticed the speaker access panel will be on the wrong side in the orientation I will need it. Asbuilt, the opening will be only 6" from the wall. I need to put the access on the other side.
Glued the original access panel in using screws as spacers and PL. Obviously, I am not too concerned about finish on the outside
picture hosting
Opening moved to other side. I made this new opening 1" smaller all around.
Dayton 1200 installed. Looks kind of small and tiny in there This photo makes it look like a 6" speaker.
I seriously thought about using two Dayton 1200s in this build since I have another, but that would be overkill and not match my other THTLP.
upload images free
Access panel installed, speaker tested for leaks, now the fun part. Testing in place .
I mounted a Harbor Freight furniture mover dolly underneath and drug this monster into the house. It barely fit, even scraped paint off the box by the door latch plate squeezing through.
Here is the monster in place in the living room where it will be lined up with the floor joist but below the floor. I wanted to listen to it and make sure it would sound good in this exact spot, since I won't be able to move it once I cut the hole in the floor.
image upload no limit
When I drug this into the house my kids gave me the look.......I think Dad needs help with this speaker addiction
Testing went awesome, this will put my THTLP to shame in lower frequency extension and is much more sensitive. I used it for a week like this powered by a Dayton 250 plate amp. My THTLP is not moved and hooked back up yet.
Front braces installed:
upload gifs
Looking at the speaker and taking outside dimensions, I noticed the speaker access panel will be on the wrong side in the orientation I will need it. Asbuilt, the opening will be only 6" from the wall. I need to put the access on the other side.
Glued the original access panel in using screws as spacers and PL. Obviously, I am not too concerned about finish on the outside
picture hosting
Opening moved to other side. I made this new opening 1" smaller all around.
Dayton 1200 installed. Looks kind of small and tiny in there This photo makes it look like a 6" speaker.
I seriously thought about using two Dayton 1200s in this build since I have another, but that would be overkill and not match my other THTLP.
upload images free
Access panel installed, speaker tested for leaks, now the fun part. Testing in place .
I mounted a Harbor Freight furniture mover dolly underneath and drug this monster into the house. It barely fit, even scraped paint off the box by the door latch plate squeezing through.
Here is the monster in place in the living room where it will be lined up with the floor joist but below the floor. I wanted to listen to it and make sure it would sound good in this exact spot, since I won't be able to move it once I cut the hole in the floor.
image upload no limit
When I drug this into the house my kids gave me the look.......I think Dad needs help with this speaker addiction
Testing went awesome, this will put my THTLP to shame in lower frequency extension and is much more sensitive. I used it for a week like this powered by a Dayton 250 plate amp. My THTLP is not moved and hooked back up yet.
16.5" AT w/ Infinity 860w
TLAHs w/ 9 mids & 16 tweets
17" THTLP w/ Dayton RSS315HF-4
16" TAT w/ Infinity 1060w
18" TT w/ Dayton DCS-205-4
5.5" TrT w/ DCS-205-4
T-18 w/ DCS-205-4
33" THT w/ Dayton Titantic 1200
DR200s
TLAHs w/ 9 mids & 16 tweets
17" THTLP w/ Dayton RSS315HF-4
16" TAT w/ Infinity 1060w
18" TT w/ Dayton DCS-205-4
5.5" TrT w/ DCS-205-4
T-18 w/ DCS-205-4
33" THT w/ Dayton Titantic 1200
DR200s
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- Posts: 136
- Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2014 8:24 am
Re: 33" THT Build Under Floor Mount
Part III
Now for the fun and sawdust in the house. Time to cut the hole in the floor after careful measurements and some pilot holes to find the I-beams. The goal is not to cut any part of the I-beams.
free picture hosting
Mini Sawsled works perfect for this cut:
image hosting over 10mb
Now it is done. No Turning Back Now!
Here is what we are looking at for existing framing: You can see these are composite I-beams on 16" centers with 14" between the flanges. I need to finish these to match the THT when viewed from above.
screenshot windows
I will need to build a support "floor" for the speaker to sit on, and box in the I-beams with plywood so the THT throat will match the finished opening in the floor. Luckily, the standard plans THT throat opening exactly matches the space between the I-beam flanges, but I will have to frame out the web to match the I-beam flange.
I started with framing up a floor for the speaker to sit on with 2" by 4" in the crawlspace, that way I could stand on it while working on boxing the beams. I just used 2" by 4" for a "floor" tied to the existing walls by the corner and used one 4" by 4" post on a concrete pier block. It is important to leave more than 36" between the floor and the bottom of the joist to fit the 36" tall THT, or you will never get that box in there. I left the front of the support down 1.5" (37.5" clearance) and the back down 0.5" (36.5" clearance) so the box will sit on the platform with about 1" clearance in front and 1/2" clearance in back for positioning and adding caulk. I will shim the box into final height.
pic host
With the support floor built, I can stand on it and wrap the inside of the I-beams with 3/4" plywood. A 3/4" plywood fits on the side of the I-beam and matches the I-beam flange perfect. Here it is test fit before I nailed it flush.
adult picture hosting
Now filling in the ends between the I-beams: the ends are each three pieces and nail to the side pieces like a box. The three pieces are:, the top piece between the flange, the middle between the webs, and the bottom piece will be a 2" by 4" since the speaker top opening will mate with it, I want the bottom mating surface wide for a good seal. I glued and nailed everything. PL not needed, since I will cover all this surface with formica countertop material.
adult photo sharing
photo sharing websites
Here is the bottom flange created with the 2" by 4" material: In hindsight I should have tacked a ledger around two sides of the bottom flange to line up the speaker perfect to the opening, since it is impossible to see what is going on below when positioning it. I ended up with many trips up and down to check for alignment.
pic host
Working around fiberglass insulation always makes it more fun !
Finished framing waiting for the THT.
free upload
At this point I wrapped the inside of the plywood opening with some formica I had. It doesn't match, but I can sand it with 240 grit and paint it to match if needed. I used formica so I didn't have to finish the plywood, sand it, bondo it, sand it again, prime it, paint it. I am done with sawdust inside the house.
Now I don't have any photos of the giant THT being dragged, strained, cursed, and wrestled into place 3' up onto the support floor, since I did it myself and couldn't hold the camera, but use your imagination what it looked like. It took many trips up and down to get the throat of the THT to line up with the opening before setting it. I had it perfect, then shimmed the THT box up tight to the floor after applying some clear latex caulk for sealing. Sometime during the final shim placement, I was too eager and hammered in one shim in too much and it moved the box 1/8" out of alignment. I wasn't able to move it back without pulling out shims, but it is not real visible from above so I left it.
Here are the finished in place pictures from above.
screen capture software
With amp on wall hooked up and up and running. I may move the amp over by the stereo, it was already placed here when I had my THTLP in this location.
screen cap
I am toying with the idea about adding a light down in there, firing up for affect. I still need to weld a floor grate to keep pets from falling into that chasm. My welding skills are horrible and those photos may not be posted.
Now for the fun and sawdust in the house. Time to cut the hole in the floor after careful measurements and some pilot holes to find the I-beams. The goal is not to cut any part of the I-beams.
free picture hosting
Mini Sawsled works perfect for this cut:
image hosting over 10mb
Now it is done. No Turning Back Now!
Here is what we are looking at for existing framing: You can see these are composite I-beams on 16" centers with 14" between the flanges. I need to finish these to match the THT when viewed from above.
screenshot windows
I will need to build a support "floor" for the speaker to sit on, and box in the I-beams with plywood so the THT throat will match the finished opening in the floor. Luckily, the standard plans THT throat opening exactly matches the space between the I-beam flanges, but I will have to frame out the web to match the I-beam flange.
I started with framing up a floor for the speaker to sit on with 2" by 4" in the crawlspace, that way I could stand on it while working on boxing the beams. I just used 2" by 4" for a "floor" tied to the existing walls by the corner and used one 4" by 4" post on a concrete pier block. It is important to leave more than 36" between the floor and the bottom of the joist to fit the 36" tall THT, or you will never get that box in there. I left the front of the support down 1.5" (37.5" clearance) and the back down 0.5" (36.5" clearance) so the box will sit on the platform with about 1" clearance in front and 1/2" clearance in back for positioning and adding caulk. I will shim the box into final height.
pic host
With the support floor built, I can stand on it and wrap the inside of the I-beams with 3/4" plywood. A 3/4" plywood fits on the side of the I-beam and matches the I-beam flange perfect. Here it is test fit before I nailed it flush.
adult picture hosting
Now filling in the ends between the I-beams: the ends are each three pieces and nail to the side pieces like a box. The three pieces are:, the top piece between the flange, the middle between the webs, and the bottom piece will be a 2" by 4" since the speaker top opening will mate with it, I want the bottom mating surface wide for a good seal. I glued and nailed everything. PL not needed, since I will cover all this surface with formica countertop material.
adult photo sharing
photo sharing websites
Here is the bottom flange created with the 2" by 4" material: In hindsight I should have tacked a ledger around two sides of the bottom flange to line up the speaker perfect to the opening, since it is impossible to see what is going on below when positioning it. I ended up with many trips up and down to check for alignment.
pic host
Working around fiberglass insulation always makes it more fun !
Finished framing waiting for the THT.
free upload
At this point I wrapped the inside of the plywood opening with some formica I had. It doesn't match, but I can sand it with 240 grit and paint it to match if needed. I used formica so I didn't have to finish the plywood, sand it, bondo it, sand it again, prime it, paint it. I am done with sawdust inside the house.
Now I don't have any photos of the giant THT being dragged, strained, cursed, and wrestled into place 3' up onto the support floor, since I did it myself and couldn't hold the camera, but use your imagination what it looked like. It took many trips up and down to get the throat of the THT to line up with the opening before setting it. I had it perfect, then shimmed the THT box up tight to the floor after applying some clear latex caulk for sealing. Sometime during the final shim placement, I was too eager and hammered in one shim in too much and it moved the box 1/8" out of alignment. I wasn't able to move it back without pulling out shims, but it is not real visible from above so I left it.
Here are the finished in place pictures from above.
screen capture software
With amp on wall hooked up and up and running. I may move the amp over by the stereo, it was already placed here when I had my THTLP in this location.
screen cap
I am toying with the idea about adding a light down in there, firing up for affect. I still need to weld a floor grate to keep pets from falling into that chasm. My welding skills are horrible and those photos may not be posted.
16.5" AT w/ Infinity 860w
TLAHs w/ 9 mids & 16 tweets
17" THTLP w/ Dayton RSS315HF-4
16" TAT w/ Infinity 1060w
18" TT w/ Dayton DCS-205-4
5.5" TrT w/ DCS-205-4
T-18 w/ DCS-205-4
33" THT w/ Dayton Titantic 1200
DR200s
TLAHs w/ 9 mids & 16 tweets
17" THTLP w/ Dayton RSS315HF-4
16" TAT w/ Infinity 1060w
18" TT w/ Dayton DCS-205-4
5.5" TrT w/ DCS-205-4
T-18 w/ DCS-205-4
33" THT w/ Dayton Titantic 1200
DR200s
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- Posts: 1648
- Joined: Wed Mar 25, 2009 7:07 pm
- Location: Medicine Hat, Alberta, Canada
Re: 33" THT Build Under Floor Mount
That turned out really well !
You know ... I have a crawl space ..
You know ... I have a crawl space ..
Built:
17" width 10" driver Autotuba
2 x 29" width dual Lab12 Tuba60
6 x DR250 2510/asd1001
In progress:
2 x DR250 2510/asd1001
For best results, point the loud end of the array towards the audience
17" width 10" driver Autotuba
2 x 29" width dual Lab12 Tuba60
6 x DR250 2510/asd1001
In progress:
2 x DR250 2510/asd1001
For best results, point the loud end of the array towards the audience
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- Posts: 6915
- Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:12 am
- Location: Ilfracombe Queensland Australia
- Contact:
Re: 33" THT Build Under Floor Mount
Yes indeed!CoronaOperator wrote:That turned out really well !
Great work on the cab and the fitout to make it all happen
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
- LelandCrooks
- Posts: 7244
- Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 9:36 am
- Location: Midwest/Kansas/Speaker Nirvana
- Contact:
Re: 33" THT Build Under Floor Mount
This is awesome. Suck it up, IB guys.
If it's too loud, you're even older than me! Like me.
http://www.speakerhardware.com
http://www.speakerhardware.com
Re: 33" THT Build Under Floor Mount
Looks great, love the idea
If it were mine, I'd put some speaker grill cloth under the floor grate to keep small items from falling down in.
If it were mine, I'd put some speaker grill cloth under the floor grate to keep small items from falling down in.