Metal Grill guard material, speaker foam questions

[Dan56]

Hello,

I've read about metal grill guard material and that it has to be over 65% open. The only material I can find is an hexagonal hole in 22 gauge. That's rather thin. So I'm wondering what others have used and who was their source.

Reliable Hardware has a round hole 16 gage but that's only 62.4% open. They have an expanded metal but it's only 63%.

Also, what is your opinion on adding speaker foam? What benefit is there other then cosmetic?

Thanks,
Dan

[sine143]

parts express sell a decent 28 x 30 pair of flat grill (can cut yourself with tin snips). Its about 16 gauge.

heres a sample of it on my SLA pro.

[Dan56]

parts express sell a decent 28 x 30 pair of flat grill (can cut yourself with tin snips). Its about 16 gauge.

Thanks Sine, What size hole? I have seen that, but at 1/4" (6mm) it's only 58% free air. I don't think the 8 mm hole is much better. After reading at the forum, I was lead to believe that the designs (in this case the OT 12) needs 65% free air or better.

Thus my question.

[Bruce Weldy]

This is what I used.
http://www.reliablehardware.com/customs ... gered.aspx

The foam backer makes the cab look a whole lot better and you don't have to duratex the horn....

Here's without the foam - you can see the components

This is with the foam...much cleaner look.

[Dan56]

This is what I used.
http://www.reliablehardware.com/customs ... gered.aspx

The foam backer makes the cab look a whole lot better and you don't have to duratex the horn....

Thanks Bruce,

So the 63% air space is adequate? Did you have them bend them? If yes, was it just a 90' bend or did you bend them over so to double the edge thickness. I was thinking this would be the simplest and then just flat mount them to strips using screws.

We're using the spray version of the duratex. It works real nice, not a lot of texture but that is fine. Thus the horn fronts will be coated. I believe Tim was doing that today. I'll be wiring and mounting the speakers tomorrow night.

[Grant Bunter]

The greater the open area the better, more than 60% (not 65%) is usual.
So 63% is fine.
I would steer clear of anything around or heading towards 50%, or any company that sells grille that can't give you an open area percentage.

[Bruce Weldy]

This is what I used.
http://www.reliablehardware.com/customs ... gered.aspx

The foam backer makes the cab look a whole lot better and you don't have to duratex the horn....

Thanks Bruce,

So the 63% air space is adequate? Did you have them bend them? If yes, was it just a 90' bend or did you bend them over so to double the edge thickness. I was thinking this would be the simplest and then just flat mount them to strips using screws.

We're using the spray version of the duratex. It works real nice, not a lot of texture but that is fine. Thus the horn fronts will be coated. I believe Tim was doing that today. I'll be wiring and mounting the speakers tomorrow night.

No bends at all. The key is putting the proper cleats in the box. I used cutoffs from the horn panels....turn 'em over and they create the perfect 90 degree angle. Here's a pic of the inside...

[Dan56]

No bends at all. The key is putting the proper cleats in the box. I used cutoffs from the horn panels....turn 'em over and they create the perfect 90 degree angle. Here's a pic of the inside...

Ok, thanks Bruce. Next task, understanding the driverack and just what I'm trying to accomplish with the initial eq'ing.

[Bruce Weldy]

No bends at all. The key is putting the proper cleats in the box. I used cutoffs from the horn panels....turn 'em over and they create the perfect 90 degree angle. Here's a pic of the inside...

Ok, thanks Bruce. Next task, understanding the driverack and just what I'm trying to accomplish with the initial eq'ing.

Use the auto EQ to set the system either flat or use the "band" curve on the wizard....assuming you have the reference mic. Then do some listening and smooth out any really wild cuts or boosts.

Call that preset Flat - it will have all of your Crossover settings, limiter settings, etc. Then when you go to a new venue clone that setting over and run the auto EQ again - and name that preset for that venue. Rinse and repeat everywhere you go. Then next time you are there - just being up the preset from last time.

[Dan56]

Use the auto EQ to set the system either flat or use the "band" curve on the wizard....assuming you have the reference mic. Then do some listening and smooth out any really wild cuts or boosts.

Call that preset Flat - it will have all of your Crossover settings, limiter settings, etc. Then when you go to a new venue clone that setting over and run the auto EQ again - and name that preset for that venue. Rinse and repeat everywhere you go. Then next time you are there - just being up the preset from last time.

Ok, thank you.

Dan

[J_Dunavin]

Bruce
I love the finished look of your cabs! What foam did you use behind your grills? And how is the foam secured in there?

[Bruce Weldy]

Bruce
I love the finished look of your cabs! What foam did you use behind your grills? And how is the foam secured in there?

The foam is from Wal-Mart. It is air-conditioning filters for window units. Fits and OT12 perfectly with a little trimming.

Use spray adhesive. Spray the back of the grill, then put the foam on that. Cover with a piece of plywood and some weight to press it down while it dries.

[PulseMan]

Or Alternatively you could stick the sponge on the outside like I did.
Easier to keep clean and won't show dents.

http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewt ... 1&start=30

Pulseman

[commander_dan]

This is what I used.
http://www.reliablehardware.com/customs ... gered.aspx

The foam backer makes the cab look a whole lot better and you don't have to duratex the horn....

Thanks Bruce,

So the 63% air space is adequate? Did you have them bend them? If yes, was it just a 90' bend or did you bend them over so to double the edge thickness. I was thinking this would be the simplest and then just flat mount them to strips using screws.

We're using the spray version of the duratex. It works real nice, not a lot of texture but that is fine. Thus the horn fronts will be coated. I believe Tim was doing that today. I'll be wiring and mounting the speakers tomorrow night.

No bends at all. The key is putting the proper cleats in the box. I used cutoffs from the horn panels....turn 'em over and they create the perfect 90 degree angle. Here's a pic of the inside...

OT12 Build 045 (Small).jpg

Bruce, or anyone in the know, does mounting cleats in this way obstruct the horn in a way that could be detrimental to the output/sound of the cab? I thought messing with the horn panels was a no-no.

I'm nearing the stage of having to mount grills and am puzzling over which method to use. I'd like to try and avoid using screws on the front of the grill if possible, and am considering the various side-mount techniques available...

[Bruce Weldy]

Bruce, or anyone in the know, does mounting cleats in this way obstruct the horn in a way that could be detrimental to the output/sound of the cab? I thought messing with the horn panels was a no-no.

I'm nearing the stage of having to mount grills and am puzzling over which method to use. I'd like to try and avoid using screws on the front of the grill if possible, and am considering the various side-mount techniques available...

Nope.....cleat away....and if you use black grills and black screws, you can't see 'em.