NEW BUILD - Omni 15 Tall Boy in New Zealand

[Tom Smit]

And if you're mildly computer-literate you can upload pictures to imgur.com which lets you link a much larger pic to this forum

I got an error off of that link.

[jimbo7]

And if you're mildly computer-literate you can upload pictures to imgur.com which lets you link a much larger pic to this forum

I got an error off of that link.

That's because I'm still logged in my account

[Grey Owl]

Thanks Tallevan
The reversal hint worked well. Your advice got me going again and have been cutting out further pieces all afternoon; just taking things slowly.

Jimbo 7.
Yes I have been using Sketchup but have obviously missed some of the subtleties of each picture frame.
I'm almost ready to cut the mid-horn and even closely reading, and looking at, the various cuts am still not that confident of getting it right first time. My present 3D aptitude is seemingly not what it was!!
Yes I had a weird thing happen when I initially clicked the new Sketchup link. A window popped up from Microsoft instructing me to open a new folder for 2 Gb of new program plus, I needed to install my Virtual Reality headset and driver to allow the system to operate.
I promptly deleted that file & any and all Sketchup files on my laptop and reinstalled the previous program I had from an earlier plan - all now going well. Never seen that raise its head before?

I'm gunna try n put some pics up.
Cheers

[tallevan]

NP, Grey Owl.

Regarding the mid horn, that is IMO the most difficult part of the build.
But if you don't mind my unsolicited opinion..

1)
Bill gives excellent advice about making and using a a tapered jig to install the first two sides of the horn onto the baffle.
He suggests screwing the jig to the screened baffle, then gluing the first two sides of the horn onto the baffle.
But I find trying to get everything glued and straight on a wobbly bit of screen a little fraught.

So I modified the jig a bit. Cut a square of ply 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" and screw-glue one edge of the square to the centre line of the jig (running from top to bottom , or short edge to long edge).

This allows the jig to stand up and keep right angled to the baffle. It also allows you to clamp it to the baffle instead of screwing it.

2)
When making the mid horn, try to keep the edges of the mouth in a flat plane, and square. True, you are going to cut all those edges off, but it lying flat when mouth down is important to trimming it correctly.

3)
Trimming it on a table saw.. Whew..
Trust Bill when he says not to take off too much at a time..
Start with a long sdge, and visualise how much you are taking off, including your saw kerf. Watch your fingers.
Then do the opposite side.
At this point, with two sides left to trim I found it useful to rest the trimmed edges on a piece of scrap, so when you trim the third edge the whole thing doesn't tilt over into the spinning blade.

4)
My mouth wasn't exactly even, but as the plans say you can sand off the sharp edges that protroud from the front of the cabinet face after installation.
Also, I found framing the inside of the opening for the mid horn with scrap battens about 1/2" wide allowed the thin edges of the horn to be better reinforced.

Looking forward to seeing your results, mate.

[Grey Owl]

Hi TallEvan,

3)
Trimming it on a table saw.. Whew..
Yep. I don't have a table saw; just a 7 1/4 skill saw & aluminium sled. So I'm conscious of me fingers tips!!
As the four mouth parts are less than a 90o angle, clamping a sled for the final trim cuts will be a problematic to resolve.

Trust Bill when he says not to take off too much at a time.
Start with a long sdge, and visualise how much you are taking off, including your saw kerf. Watch your fingers.
Then do the opposite side. Will do.

At this point, with two sides left to trim I found it useful to rest the trimmed edges on a piece of scrap, so when you trim the third edge the whole thing doesn't tilt over into the spinning blade.

I like your idea of providing more support arouns the internal side of the cuts.

Thanks

[Grey Owl]

Afternoon All,
First attempt at adding some sample photo's.
Will add more as I progress.
Cheers

[Grey Owl]

more pics this arvo....
Cutting will proceed only after I get that which I have already cut glued up....wish me luck.
Cheers

[Grey Owl]

Morning All,
Well, yesterday was my first gluing day; all went well with only the usual minor panics and concerns as I progressed.
No matter how much I read the plans & thought I had intelligently planned for each step I was about to attempt, each stage really only fully revealed itself as I proceeded to act. Funny that!
Sometimes I've found your hands control your brains and resolve questions; rather than the other way around?? Or perhaps, it's our subconscious saying to us "David, don't be a silly prick, do it this way!!" Wierd that.
Anyways, new pics being going up below

Question - do you need to remove the holding screws after the glue has set when routing for a quarter round effect??

Cheers All
By the way, Happy Easter everyone and you and your families keep safe out there.

[Grey Owl]

Aarrrhhhh all pics in Landscape. Apols, need to remember that one.....

[Bruce Weldy]

If the screw is anywhere near the edge, then yes - remove it. Otherwise, you'll be buying new router bits. I always removed all of the screws from my builds......with the smaller cabs (non-subs) I typically use only brads.

[jimbo7]

To add to Bruce's comment; yes, remove all exterior screws after glue is dry or use a few screws to line up the panel then brad nail it. Then you can remove the screws for a "fastener free" build. I use cheap round-over bits when I gotta cut through brads. What glue are you using?

[Seth]

Morning All,
Well, yesterday was my first gluing day; all went well with only the usual minor panics and concerns as I progressed.
No matter how much I read the plans & thought I had intelligently planned for each step I was about to attempt, each stage really only fully revealed itself as I proceeded to act. Funny that!
Sometimes I've found your hands control your brains and resolve questions; rather than the other way around?? Or perhaps, it's our subconscious saying to us "David, don't be a silly prick, do it this way!!" Wierd that.
Anyways, new pics being going up below

Question - do you need to remove the holding screws after the glue has set when routing for a quarter round effect??

Cheers All
By the way, Happy Easter everyone and you and your families keep safe out there.

Way to go David... Er, umm... Mr. Owl. Yeah, I went through pretty much the same experience. Things weren't really real until they were real. And overthinking it is nowhere near as useful and productive as just doing it. Personally, I operate much better in discovery and creation mode than following someone else's discovery and creation. It has always been tough for me to concentrate and follow written directions. Takes a lot of effort for me, like reading a book. I'll go pages and realize that I haven't been listening and comprehending what I've read and have to turn back a few pages because I have no idea what I just read.

Yeah... landscape photos

Good job man!

[Grey Owl]

Afternoon All,
1. no screwings to be left in the build - noted;
2. Glue is Gorilla Grip expanding construction adhesive - 1 hour cure; got four tubes. Substrate needs wetting prior. Sticks like s..t to clay. I'm putting lots into each joint; ensures that it squeezes out both sides and fills every gap;
3. About to cut the speaker hole. I haven't got any hurricane / T nuts etc. yet coz all our D.I.Y. / Bunnings / home depot type businesses are shut under our compulsory country-wide / business closure regulations (except for essential services};
4. I'll remove my K3015LF from its current cabinet, measure up and trust it all goes OK.
Thinking about it, I may do a straight 90 degree cut rather than the relief angling inwards, for safety. That means I could use heavy screws, as I've used in the past, to tighten things up.
5. Primary baffle brace now installed as per pics.
Cheers All

[Grey Owl]

Gidday All BFMer's,
Rainy and blustery down here today.
Luckily it's coming from the South West (behind us) so I can keep my garage door open & continue working.
Yesterday was a big day.
Learnings -
1. small errors at the initial cutting stage become magnified at the trial fitting in their final position;
2. this means I have a quarter inch gap where my speaker baffle meets the front panel; between the top of the primary brace & the baffle itself. In effect, I had trimmed the long side too hard and came up short;
3. took me quite a while & various levels of profanity to achieve a work-around fix. There was lots of finagleling to get the front angled edge of the baffle perfectly aligned with its corresponding front panel angle. The pictures tell the story;
4. Baltic ply (even though very expensive) is lovely to work with;
5. I've chosen to go with a 45 degree angled cut on the baffle. Was quite undecided on that until I realised I had no way of getting the recommended bolts and nuts (because of lock-down), couldn't find my heavy wood screws so, am going with quarter inch gutter bolts with both upper & lower spring washers and sharp edged flat washers for bite. Remind me to take a pic of this set up if you want to see it;
6. pic below of my K3015LF looking beautiful assuming its test position;

Cheers everyone.

[Grey Owl]

More pics