No, go get a voltmeter. It doesn't have to be expensive - I think I bought one for under $10 that I've used for years. Set the volume based on hitting 10 volts showing on the meter.Joeytiii wrote: ↑Sat May 01, 2021 6:32 am Oh yeah..... just figured out a new way to breaking the driver by running a android tone generator app through my wireless stereo. I am trying to figure out how high to turn up volume to match the output recommendations of 8 to 10 volts?
Do I just eyeball it the woofer for 1/4 inch movement?
Couple J12L questions on flatpack, assembly and driver breakin.
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- Location: New Braunfels, TX
Re: Couple J12L questions on flatpack, assembly and driver breakin.
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
Re: Couple J12L questions on flatpack, assembly and driver breakin.
Yeah I have a multi meter I can use for that.Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Sat May 01, 2021 8:22 amNo, go get a voltmeter. It doesn't have to be expensive - I think I bought one for under $10 that I've used for years. Set the volume based on hitting 10 volts showing on the meter.Joeytiii wrote: ↑Sat May 01, 2021 6:32 am Oh yeah..... just figured out a new way to breaking the driver by running a android tone generator app through my wireless stereo. I am trying to figure out how high to turn up volume to match the output recommendations of 8 to 10 volts?
Do I just eyeball it the woofer for 1/4 inch movement?
Now why didn't I think of that????
Re: Couple J12L questions on flatpack, assembly and driver breakin.
So I am building this cab for bass guitar only and will not be using any high drivers. I have been reading up on building the Low Pass filter and am perplexed at how best to create the joints. I have worked soldering on pc boards and when I look at the plans, it appears to show eyelets at each end of a wooden board. These were not part of the Leland's Deluxe kit so I wonder if I can just solder the speaker wire to each end?
Curious how other builders have created their own filter boards. Pictures would be helpful if available.
thanks
Curious how other builders have created their own filter boards. Pictures would be helpful if available.
thanks
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- Posts: 8317
- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
- Location: New Braunfels, TX
Re: Couple J12L questions on flatpack, assembly and driver breakin.
it doesn't have to be pretty. 1/4" plywood. Lay out the parts where they need to go. I then drill a little hole on each side of the component. Use zip ties through the holes to hold the pieces in place, use hot melt glue all around them to lock 'em in place and just solder the wires together. No need for an eyelet board. You can certainly use one if you want - but it's not necessary.Joeytiii wrote: ↑Sat May 01, 2021 9:01 am So I am building this cab for bass guitar only and will not be using any high drivers. I have been reading up on building the Low Pass filter and am perplexed at how best to create the joints. I have worked soldering on pc boards and when I look at the plans, it appears to show eyelets at each end of a wooden board. These were not part of the Leland's Deluxe kit so I wonder if I can just solder the speaker wire to each end?
Curious how other builders have created their own filter boards. Pictures would be helpful if available.
thanks
I'd post some pics, but my new computer doesn't have my pictures on it yet.
I'm sure someone can show you some. Or just go look at some build threads. I'm sure there are pics of my crossovers in my POWERED SLA build.
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
- Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: Couple J12L questions on flatpack, assembly and driver breakin.
You can do them per the plans (recommended) and you can also get creative... as long as the circuit is wired correctly (cough cough... not gonna say it )
Here's what I did for my shorty 2x6 SLA Pro's, used both sides of ¼" ply on stand-offs
Here's what I did for my Wedgehorn 6 build, assembled on a popsicle stick
Here's Bruce's SLA crossover, which is almost exactly like the plans show
(Note to general reader: There's a slight wiring error in this photo, do not use as a circuit wiring reference)
Here's what I did for my shorty 2x6 SLA Pro's, used both sides of ¼" ply on stand-offs
Here's what I did for my Wedgehorn 6 build, assembled on a popsicle stick
Here's Bruce's SLA crossover, which is almost exactly like the plans show
(Note to general reader: There's a slight wiring error in this photo, do not use as a circuit wiring reference)
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
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- Posts: 8317
- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
- Location: New Braunfels, TX
Re: Couple J12L questions on flatpack, assembly and driver breakin.
Oh my gosh....that wiring error will haunt me for all my days......
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
Re: Couple J12L questions on flatpack, assembly and driver breakin.
Mucho Gracias.... this helps alot!Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Sat May 01, 2021 11:28 amOh my gosh....that wiring error will haunt me for all my days......
Re: Couple J12L questions on flatpack, assembly and driver breakin.
The capacitor Leland sent does not have any markings to indicate a particular flow s I am assuming it can be installed in either
Re: Couple J12L questions on flatpack, assembly and driver breakin.
Correct, it is a non-polarized capacitor.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Re: Couple J12L questions on flatpack, assembly and driver breakin.
Why use a low pass filter at all?
If you are using only a woofer for electric bass I don't see why you would throw away what few highs it reproduces.
Perhaps it improves the response in the mids a bit?
If so, the cabinet has naturally strong mids anyway.
Having said that, I do have a low pass filter in a woofer-only Simplexx cabinet that I can switch in and out.
I switch it in when I pair it with another Simplexx cabinet with a tweeter and filter network.
When I use it by itself, I bypass the low pass filter.
If you are using only a woofer for electric bass I don't see why you would throw away what few highs it reproduces.
Perhaps it improves the response in the mids a bit?
If so, the cabinet has naturally strong mids anyway.
Having said that, I do have a low pass filter in a woofer-only Simplexx cabinet that I can switch in and out.
I switch it in when I pair it with another Simplexx cabinet with a tweeter and filter network.
When I use it by itself, I bypass the low pass filter.
- Bill Fitzmaurice
- Site Admin
- Posts: 28645
- Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 5:59 pm
Re: Couple J12L questions on flatpack, assembly and driver breakin.
You do so to improve the upper mids. Where highs are concerned the dispersion is too narrow for them to be heard off-axis.