Afternoon all!

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DJPhatman
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#16 Post by DJPhatman » Wed Mar 26, 2008 11:15 pm

Hi Robin, and welcome to the "Wonderful World Of Bill Fitzmaurice Design Loudspeakers"!

I built and use a pair of dual driver Omni 10s. They are AWESOME!!! I have mine paired with 2 23" wide T39s. The Titans are dual HL10C loaded. I have used the O10s alone for a small (60-75) hall party. Very low volume, 50's and 60's music and some Big Band Swing. Because of the low volume, there was almost no bass, but quite clear and crisp. I am very happy with them, but I have decided to go for DR200s, after traveling to Tim Ard's home to do an A/B of different cabs. Read about it here. I found the comparison very eye-opening.

A pair of O10s will start around $250, depending on the driver/tweeter combination. Not including your time. That's with the MCM driver. I used the DeltaLite II 2510, much more expensive, but worth it, and were built before the melded array option.
I know money often seals the deal, but seriously, quality is an investment, not an expense... Grant Bunter
Accept the fact that airtight and well-braced are more important than pretty on the inside. Bill Fitzmaurice

rwalkerphl
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#17 Post by rwalkerphl » Thu Mar 27, 2008 7:35 pm

Hi DJ,

Thanks for the info. A couple of REALLY basic questions:

1. I assume dual drivers means 2 woofers in each cab?

2/ What exactly does a melded array mean? I searched around and nothing I have read makes a whole lot of sense... are there instructions in the plans to make a melded array?

Thanks!
Robin.

horst
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#18 Post by horst » Thu Mar 27, 2008 8:18 pm

rwalkerphl wrote:Hi DJ,

Thanks for the info. A couple of REALLY basic questions:

1. I assume dual drivers means 2 woofers in each cab?
yes

2/ What exactly does a melded array mean? I searched around and nothing I have read makes a whole lot of sense... are there instructions in the plans to make a melded array?
the melded array is simply a different way to cut and glue the piezo tweeters, it is trickier than the old method but it improves their response.
it's in the plans.

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Frankenspeakers
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#19 Post by Frankenspeakers » Thu Mar 27, 2008 10:23 pm

What you might want to do is make the MCM O10 version. It's pretty simple and if you haven't been around the woodshop lately, it's a good design to get some refresher training, or start your learning curve. I was thinking that DJ Phat was a little high on the estimate, but I started thinking about all the little fiddly bits that are needed to do a really top-notch job and yeah it could be that much. Add the cost of plywood to the Deluxe Kit that Leland sells, and that is another way of figuring the cost. There are things like Duratex that cost a bit initially, but they will be used over several builds and are actually pretty economical in the long run. If you want to use the high dollar drivers, then look at Leland's website and add the cost of Wood & PL to it and thats the cost- a little over 325-350 each for the best quality... (Leland will surely administer a Peraluma Style correction if my numbers are too far off.) Now, when you are done, you will know that nobody has better speakers than you have even if they spent three time as much- unless they built DR's!

A note on the melded arrays. There are several years of history behind this cutting edge technology (seriously, this is way ahead of the curve here): Bill made a design called the DR250a to be a hi-end bass guitar/PA speaker. To give more even HF coverage, he put a number of planar ribbon tweeters in a 90 degree 'V' using a few tweaks to make it work (about 8 or 12 $32 PE PT2's if memory serves) It worked fairly well- much better than what is available... He offered a low-dollar 'el-cheapo' alternative if you didn't want to shell out 32 scones per unit... How 'bout a row of those peee-zoes? So several methods of lining up the piezos were developed... up to and including a line of 1025's stacked on top of each other. Then he hit on the idea of putting two rows of the piezo drivers in the 90* 'V' like the expensive ribbons- and the el-cheapo piezo's worked even better than the ribbons (NO WAY!- WAY?) :shock: The melded array is another tweak to an already (unbelievably) hi-tech line array. Several members in the true 'show me- I'm from Missouri' spirit did measured compariasons. Dave Perry especially, (a good Limey POM) had difficulty believing that a bunch of $2 plastic piezo tweeters could compete with JBL compression horns (just ask 'em). If memory serves, some e-bayer was very happy to have Dave's old JBL's. :wink: Do a search- there's RTA tests, and 'ya gota be kidd'n me's'...
There is no technical problem however complex, that cannot be solved or finessed by a direct application of brute strength and ignorance.

"Gimme the hammer... Naaaw not that one, the freakin' big one- I'll MAKE it fit!"

rwalkerphl
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#20 Post by rwalkerphl » Wed Apr 09, 2008 9:10 am

Hey Guys,

Just as a follow up, I picked up a set of plans for the O10s, and picked up some Arauco ply from Lowes last week.

As I am a novice in the woodwork department, I have decided to cut all the parts for the boxes first and assemble to the point where the speajers can be added. Assuming all looks good, I am then going to order up the speakers. I think I am going to try the stacked piezos for now, as it seems relatively simple, but an upgrade from the basic design. I am making 2 simultaneously right now, and am getting all the wood marked up ready to cut (can't cut the wood right now as the garage is right under my sons bedroom, and I don't get home until 7 or 8 most nights!).

One question. In the plans there is mention that if you are going to use the cabs with Subs that you should not cut the port. How much of a difference will this make, and if I cut the ports in, am I barring myself from using subs? Also, how easy would it be to modify them if I do need to block the ports?

Thanks!
Robin.

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Tom
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#21 Post by Tom » Wed Apr 09, 2008 1:51 pm

rwalkerphl wrote:In the plans there is mention that if you are going to use the cabs with Subs that you should not cut the port. How much of a difference will this make, and if I cut the ports in, am I barring myself from using subs?
No. Cut the port and be done with it.

Adding the port tunes the box to improve performance in the lowest operating range of the O10. You may lose a bit of sensitivity, or shift the frequency response a tiny bit by porting but you won't miss it.

With a sub, you'll Highpass filter the > 100 Hz content into the Omni, which depends less on the ported cabinet.
Also, how easy would it be to modify them if I do need to block the ports?
Very easy, but you won't need to. Porting increases versatility long term.

rwalkerphl
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#22 Post by rwalkerphl » Thu Apr 10, 2008 2:18 pm

Thanks Tom!

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Frankenspeakers
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#23 Post by Frankenspeakers » Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:19 pm

coupla suggestions: If you are going to start out with the MCM woofers (and possibly upgrade later) then use #8 or #10 cabinet screws to mount the woofers; if not then use the hurricane nuts. Second, If you don't get the piezos from Leland, get them from PE, (not sure about MCM) the PE piezos are "known good" piezos. It's also a good idea to give each one a listen test to weed out the weak and funky sounding ones... for a couple bucks each, you can afford to toss a few bum ones- or return them...

ABS solvent (careful with the fumes) may be cheaper at the hardware store labled 'drain pipe cement' than from places like Tap* Plastic.
There is no technical problem however complex, that cannot be solved or finessed by a direct application of brute strength and ignorance.

"Gimme the hammer... Naaaw not that one, the freakin' big one- I'll MAKE it fit!"

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