Hello from Slovakia - which cab to build?

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jurajk
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Hello from Slovakia - which cab to build?

#1 Post by jurajk » Sun Dec 20, 2015 5:17 am

Hi there,

I'm want to build new tops for our bike kitchen mobile soundsystem. Right now it is a boominator on top of two MTH-30's powered by a 2x100 and 2x300 sure amplifiers from a 12V battery and is transported on a tricycle. (https://www.facebook.com/Cyklokuchyna/p ... =3&theater)

I crossover the MTH-30's at 120Hz, and mainly play reggae and dub music.

I'm deciding between a pair of OmniTop12, DR200 or DR250. If it wasn't for the trapezoidal shape of the DR's, i would probably go with the ported 200, although i just can't believe that a single 8" driver would do the trick.

OmniTop 12 is a flat box (no trapezoid shape), and is light. Which would really help stability on the bike, but doesn't go so low.

I would immediately go for the 250's, but it's just way too heavy.

Do any of these cabs accept a 4OHM woofer? That might be a dealbreaker for me, would be nice to have the possibility to put them on poles and have stereo while stationary.

Any suggestions?

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LelandCrooks
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Re: Hello from Slovakia - which cab to build?

#2 Post by LelandCrooks » Sun Dec 20, 2015 7:33 am

Otop 12, cross at 100hz. Or for lightest possible, Jack 12 lite, cross at 100hz also.
If it's too loud, you're even older than me! Like me.
http://www.speakerhardware.com

Dale Hammer
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Re: Hello from Slovakia - which cab to build?

#3 Post by Dale Hammer » Sun Dec 20, 2015 10:18 am

Hello from Kansas.

Grant Bunter
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Re: Hello from Slovakia - which cab to build?

#4 Post by Grant Bunter » Sun Dec 20, 2015 4:06 pm

jurajk wrote:Hi there,

I'm want to build new tops for our bike kitchen mobile soundsystem. Right now it is a boominator on top of two MTH-30's powered by a 2x100 and 2x300 sure amplifiers from a 12V battery and is transported on a tricycle. (https://www.facebook.com/Cyklokuchyna/p ... =3&theater)

I crossover the MTH-30's at 120Hz, and mainly play reggae and dub music.

I'm deciding between a pair of OmniTop12, DR200 or DR250. If it wasn't for the trapezoidal shape of the DR's, i would probably go with the ported 200, although i just can't believe that a single 8" driver would do the trick.

OmniTop 12 is a flat box (no trapezoid shape), and is light. Which would really help stability on the bike, but doesn't go so low.

I would immediately go for the 250's, but it's just way too heavy.

Do any of these cabs accept a 4OHM woofer? That might be a dealbreaker for me, would be nice to have the possibility to put them on poles and have stereo while stationary.

Any suggestions?
Hi and welcome to the forum :)

IF you can find some 4 ohm drivers with the right TS specs and a rising response to 2K, then sure, why not. You would also have to alter some values of the components in the passive crossovers though.

While it would add a little weight, if you really want to build any of the DR series, then build as per the plans, then extend the back plate down a little, allowing you to flatten off the bottom side with an additional panel.
While they are the best, the DR series are quite time consuming to build.

If light is the ultimate goal, +1 to Lelands suggestion of a Jack lite...
Built:
DR 250: x 2 (melded array) with March 2012 plans. 2 more under way with CD horn
T39's: 4 x 20" BP102 , 2 x 28" 3012lf.
WH8: x 3 with melded array.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...

CoronaOperator
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Re: Hello from Slovakia - which cab to build?

#5 Post by CoronaOperator » Sun Dec 20, 2015 6:56 pm

Hi and welcome!

Why do you think you need a 4 ohm woofer? Going to an 8 ohm woofer halves your power from your amp but that only costs you 3 dB's. Bill's designs are at least 13 dB's louder than what you already have so you will still be ~10 dB's ahead of the game!!

Another way to make more power from those sure amplifiers is to increase the voltage going to them. Either by adding another battery in series or by getting a DC/DC voltage converter.

I think another way you could save some weight is to redo those subs with a Titan 39.

Cool project, good luck!
Built:
17" width 10" driver Autotuba
2 x 29" width dual Lab12 Tuba60
6 x DR250 2510/asd1001
In progress:
2 x DR250 2510/asd1001
For best results, point the loud end of the array towards the audience

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Tom Smit
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Re: Hello from Slovakia - which cab to build?

#6 Post by Tom Smit » Sun Dec 20, 2015 9:05 pm

Welcome to the forum!





@CO: do you think a T39 is enough for dubstep?
TomS

CoronaOperator
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Re: Hello from Slovakia - which cab to build?

#7 Post by CoronaOperator » Sun Dec 20, 2015 9:17 pm

Tom Smit wrote: @CO: do you think a T39 is enough for dubstep?
It would be a trade off. He'll definitely have to forget about the low frequencies but he is on a bike, outdoors with only 12 volts of power to work with. I'm thinking he'll need as much sensitivity as he can get in as lightweight and small package as possible. His subs may work beautifully but they look heavy so I mentioned the T39 as a suggestion to lose some weight.
Built:
17" width 10" driver Autotuba
2 x 29" width dual Lab12 Tuba60
6 x DR250 2510/asd1001
In progress:
2 x DR250 2510/asd1001
For best results, point the loud end of the array towards the audience

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Tom Smit
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Location: Sarnia, Ont. Canada

Re: Hello from Slovakia - which cab to build?

#8 Post by Tom Smit » Sun Dec 20, 2015 11:13 pm

Yeah, I figured that is where you were going.

I was thinking too, about a T39 with dual 12" drivers. Place an axle closer to the top so that, when parked, the mouth would be on the ground and the upper portion would still be in the air. The drawbars would be attached to the sides and finish out at the bottom to attach to a bike.
Image
TomS

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: Hello from Slovakia - which cab to build?

#9 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice » Mon Dec 21, 2015 7:55 am

Tom Smit wrote: I was thinking too, about a T39 with dual 12" drivers. Place an axle closer to the top so that, when parked, the mouth would be on the ground and the upper portion would still be in the air. The drawbars would be attached to the sides and finish out at the bottom to attach to a bike.
Image
I'd use dual axles, front and rear, using bicycle wheels, leaving eight to ten inches space between the cab and the ground. T39 for sure, which would be a lot more sensitive than what he has.

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Tom Smit
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Re: Hello from Slovakia - which cab to build?

#10 Post by Tom Smit » Mon Dec 21, 2015 12:47 pm

With the heavy end being, what, 100 lbs.?, I think that a single axle should be plenty, especially when you consider that most adults are more than 100 lbs.. The axle should be more than a 3/8"(10mm) bar, though. Also, a single axle will steer easily, but a dual axle will not. The other reason I thought a single axle would work well is that the axle becomes a pivot point/resting place so that the sub can be ground-loaded as in the picture.
TomS

y2kindyz
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Re: Hello from Slovakia - which cab to build?

#11 Post by y2kindyz » Tue Dec 22, 2015 9:55 am

Hello jurajk and welcome to the forum from South Texas.

I am curious as to the play time you get from your rig? Are you using 1 or 2 batteries?

What kind of SPL are you trying to achieve? What kind of crowd size?

I think a single OTop12 and a dual loaded T30 would fit in your currect configuration with alot more to offer than your current setup. Of course not knowing the playing level of the current system I could be over estimating Bills designs, so correct me if I am off.

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: Hello from Slovakia - which cab to build?

#12 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice » Tue Dec 22, 2015 11:46 am

y2kindyz wrote:a dual loaded T30 would fit in your currect configuration with alot more to offer than your current setup.
I'd go for the higher sensitivity of the T39 rather than the lower extension of the T30. You have to accept some compromises with a battery powered rig.

y2kindyz
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Re: Hello from Slovakia - which cab to build?

#13 Post by y2kindyz » Tue Dec 22, 2015 1:40 pm

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:
y2kindyz wrote:a dual loaded T30 would fit in your currect configuration with alot more to offer than your current setup.
I'd go for the higher sensitivity of the T39 rather than the lower extension of the T30. You have to accept some compromises with a battery powered rig.
I thought that a T39 would be a little tall and top heavy. Especially, if he is driving that tricycle at 30+ MPH

Looking forward to jurajk's response on how long the battery lasts on his setup. I have thought about setting up something like this for a parade, instead of using a generator.

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: Hello from Slovakia - which cab to build?

#14 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice » Tue Dec 22, 2015 3:19 pm

y2kindyz wrote: I thought that a T39 would be a little tall and top heavy.
Not when horizontal.

jurajk
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Re: Hello from Slovakia - which cab to build?

#15 Post by jurajk » Mon Dec 28, 2015 3:17 pm

@Grant Bunter thanks for the idea with extending the back plate, so simple :)
build time / difficulty for dr200 is not an issue, i'm giving the current tops to a friend who has a wood workshop, so i'll get plenty of help
the tricycle can handle 250kg (around 550lbs), right now it's carrying around 100kg and i don't want to carry much more. uphills are killing me, even though there is a electric motor assistance.

@y2kindyz i have a 100Ah 12V traction battery, which goes to a 500W 12->48V and a 300W 12->24V DC/DC converters. Those power the 2x300 and 2x100 sure amps. There is also a miniDSP and a little cheapo mix running from 12V and a converter to 5V for USB charging phone/tablet.
I can confidently play for around 3-4 hours and the battery still has around 50% capacity left (according to what the charger says). I never pushed it past that time as i don't want to damage the battery.

I don't have any measurement tech, so I can't tell you about SPL, but our rides vary a lot - from 50 to 500 people. While stationary and running of a generator, it can handle around 70-100 people nicely. The final aim is however a pedal powered stage in a couple of years.

New subs will have to wait, first the DR's and then start planning a new trailer with something more compact.

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