Hello from Columbus,OH

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AyAyRon
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Joined: Sun Nov 23, 2014 2:59 pm

Hello from Columbus,OH

#1 Post by AyAyRon »

I am a music lover, and so are my parents. A long time ago when they built their house, they installed speaker wire through the whole house, but never finished the project.

Years later I bought them an Onkyo 4 channel stereo receiver capable of handling 4 ohm speakers. They are still using the same fisher speakers from the 60s. They deserve an upgrade.

I haven't looked at stereo equipment in 15 years, and after doing some research, I now realize just how expensive it can get. There's no way I can afford an active system, but I want to build something I would be proud to have myself. The components will serve double duty as home stereo and theater.

Stipulations
Everything must be in the walls.
At least 2 x 2-way passive mains in ceiling or walls
1x active subwoofer
Budget: $700

The budget must cover speakers, sub amp, sub enclosure.

I really like the idea of the Tuba HT, but it has to be in the wall. I have drawn up some rough plans which I will add as soon as I get to my computer.

My plan is to open a wall between the living room and garage. The Tuba HT will sit in the garage, and the opening will be through the wall into the living room.
I will cover the hole with an old cast iron grate or something similar.

A couple questions/concerns.
Has anyone on here oriented this type of enclosure as I intend to?
Will the Tuba HT perform reasonably similar to having the whole thing in the corner of the room? The thru-wall position will be in the corner as well.
The opening in Tuba HT is wider than the studs in the wall. I will either have a stud in the middle of the port, or I will have to reduce the port to fit between studs (15"). I would rather have a 15", so is a 2x4 wall stud directly in front of the port going to drastically effect performance? My feeling is no, but some expert opinion would help my nerves before tearing into a load-bearing wall.

As for the mains, any suggestions that would keep me in my budget considering my Tuba HT plans?

Grant Bunter
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Re: Hello from Columbus,OH

#2 Post by Grant Bunter »

Hello and welcome to the forum :)

Putting a tuba HT (or any sub) with it's mouth in the wall (even in a corner) doesn't get you corner loading (or +12dB), or as far as I can see wall loading either. I have been known to be wrong though.

Normally to get wall or corner loading you point the mouth of the sub into the wall or the corner.

Does it positively absolutely have to be in walls, or can the mains be mounted to the wall?

Since the mains are dual purpose, some SLA or TLAH's would be perfect for your intended purpose was my thinking. While I guess they could be mounted in wall, on wall would be easier...
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: Hello from Columbus,OH

#3 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

Grant Bunter wrote: Putting a tuba HT (or any sub) with it's mouth in the wall (even in a corner) doesn't get you corner loading (or +12dB), or as far as I can see wall loading either. I have been known to be wrong though.
In the wall or along the wall gives the same result.

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Tom Smit
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Re: Hello from Columbus,OH

#4 Post by Tom Smit »

Welcome to the forum!

Since Bill didn't comment on the stud that is in the way, one might assume that the wave length won't be affected by that stud. However, for looks or for a means of attaching, you could remove a section of that stud and then install a header like those made for a window or door.

My vote is for the SLA if it absolutely must be in-wall, the reason being is that it more simple to install in the wall. If it can be wall-mounted, then I would suggest the TLAH since the end-port can be better located.
TomS

AyAyRon
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Joined: Sun Nov 23, 2014 2:59 pm

Re: Hello from Columbus,OH

#5 Post by AyAyRon »

Well, after some discussion, it seems as though there is no room to place the Tuba HT. Not even the 15" wide version. Every stud on my intended wall is packed with something else.

The first lady has declared exile on all free-standing speakers, so in-room sub is not an option.

So I'm down to what I think are my only options:

1) Mount 15" sub between studs and reinforce as much as possible (infinite drywall-y enclosure)
2) Build 5" x 15" x up to 8' box to shove in the wall and patch the drywall back in.

I've been reading as much as I can, but I'm not sure where to start. I have no experience designing audio equipment. I'm thinking a realistic volume is about 3ft^3.

I'm a fairly quick learner, so any online literature is appreciated. I've read through the stickies here, but I think my knowledge base is far below the discussions you are having. I need design 101.

Here's what I've read so far...

http://www.ht-audio.com/pages/SpeakerBasics.html
http://www.linkwitzlab.com/
http://education.lenardaudio.com/en/


Any suggestions are appreciated. I want to pack a V8 into a Geo Metro.

Oh yea, room dimensions are 17' x 13' x 8' rectangular.

88h88
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Re: Hello from Columbus,OH

#6 Post by 88h88 »

AyAyRon wrote: The first lady has declared exile on all free-standing speakers, so in-room sub is not an option.
Time to get a second lady. :wink:
4xOT12s, 2xT39s@22", TTLS@18", 2xT60@18"

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: Hello from Columbus,OH

#7 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

Most women only care about looks, not utility. That applies to everything from speakers to their shoes. They don't care if speakers sound good, they only care if they look good, and would prefer that there not be any at all. There's a two word solution to the problem: Man Cave.

audaibnjad
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Re: Hello from Columbus,OH

#8 Post by audaibnjad »

You may be able to build yourself a table around the sub, and put it in the room (ideally in a corner, or at least against a wall).

Here's a great example of a T18 in a room:
http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewt ... 0&start=15

You'll probably end up spending more $$ on some nice hardwood -- but the results are quite nice!

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