g'day from australia

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Grant Bunter
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Re: g'day from australia

#16 Post by Grant Bunter » Sun Sep 22, 2013 6:27 am

M_mcgarry wrote:do i need an input and output on the cabs. im confused as to which is the correct leads xlr or speakon
+1 to 88's response.
ie everything up to and including the amp input should be done with XLR's whenever possible.
Amp outputs in modern amps should be speakon.
IF you have an old Jands amp or something similar, I understand your confusion, as they have XLR inputs and outputs.
Since you haven't answered Bruce's question, I'll ask again, what gear do you currently have?

What are you loading your cabs with driver wise?

Normally you would put in a plate with 2 speakon connectors wired in parallel, and another set of wires goes from one of the speakons to the driver in each cab. This means you can "daisy chain" or connect, 2 cabs per channel...
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" BP102 , 2 x 28" 3012lf.
WH8: x 3 with melded array.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...

88h88
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Location: Coventry, UK

Re: g'day from australia

#17 Post by 88h88 » Sun Sep 22, 2013 9:38 am

Grant Bunter wrote:Normally you would put in a plate with 2 speakon connectors wired in parallel, and another set of wires goes from one of the speakons to the driver in each cab. This means you can "daisy chain" or connect, 2 cabs per channel...
I didn't do this on my first builds stupidly. Now though we're all good. This was a pic of my latest sub build:

Image
4xOT12s, 2xT39s@22", TTLS@18", 2xT60@18"

M_mcgarry
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Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2013 5:51 am

Re: g'day from australia

#18 Post by M_mcgarry » Tue Sep 24, 2013 2:04 am

you guys are amazing complete geniuses
every worry i had has now been removed with your advice

thankyou again hopefully you wont hear from me for w few months until the next project

cheers!

M_mcgarry
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Re: g'day from australia

#19 Post by M_mcgarry » Tue Sep 24, 2013 2:27 am

shit! i almost forgot

will a 2000w europower be enough to run
a 4 set if use the kappalite 3012lf

M_mcgarry
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Re: g'day from australia

#20 Post by M_mcgarry » Tue Sep 24, 2013 2:30 am

if i was to daisy chain

M_mcgarry
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Re: g'day from australia

#21 Post by M_mcgarry » Tue Sep 24, 2013 2:54 am

if i used a dbx drive rack would that eliminate the need for 2 units

driverack being a crossover/eq

M_mcgarry
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Re: g'day from australia

#22 Post by M_mcgarry » Tue Sep 24, 2013 2:58 am

maybe youll hear from me sooner

Grant Bunter
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Re: g'day from australia

#23 Post by Grant Bunter » Tue Sep 24, 2013 3:44 am

will a 2000w europower be enough to run
a 4 set if use the kappalite 3012lf...if i was to daisy chain
More than enough.
2 cabs per channel in parallel would be best. If your plans say limit the 3012lf to 55 volts that = 605W into 5 ohms.

If that output figure is for the amp in bridged mode, you should consider another amp. Like a Crown XLS 2500 for a lightweight amp.
if i used a dbx drive rack would that eliminate the need for 2 units

driverack being a crossover/eq
Certainly would!
I kinda suggested that to you in an earlier reply:
"So the driverack has certainly become a better option here" :)

Yell out if we can help in any other way...
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" BP102 , 2 x 28" 3012lf.
WH8: x 3 with melded array.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...

M_mcgarry
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Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2013 5:51 am

Re: g'day from australia

#24 Post by M_mcgarry » Tue Sep 24, 2013 5:32 am

what is bridging and is it adviseable for some1 like me to be using that

how does it affect the performance of my subs??

88h88
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Re: g'day from australia

#25 Post by 88h88 » Tue Sep 24, 2013 6:07 am

Behringer EPQ 2000? It states 1000w into 4 ohm so you'll be good to go running 4 subs on that.

If you have a look at the back of the amp you'll notice you have 2 speakon outputs (the twist and lock) and 4 positive/negative screw terminals. The two outputs run separately and have separate power supplies. Bridging uses both power supplies at the same time in order to kick out more voltage. So instead of using a black and a red connector to power a speaker you'd use both reds (after you've flicked the bridge switch on the back). This means you only have one channel available on the amp.

Back of the amp (big picture):
http://i.imgur.com/QXy0lrY.jpg

And no, Bill doesn't advise bridging an amp mainly because if you need to bridge to get the required power out of it then it'll be running itself hard. It's far better to have a more powerful amp just idling away than it is to have an underpowered one struggling away all night. At some point that underpowered one is going to go pop...
4xOT12s, 2xT39s@22", TTLS@18", 2xT60@18"

M_mcgarry
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Re: g'day from australia

#26 Post by M_mcgarry » Fri Sep 27, 2013 12:10 am

what about wires ( i swear this is the last time i post)

im not sure what wire to use to wire my subs

hi-fi wire - jacketed - flat or plenum or even just standard red and black

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Tom Smit
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Re: g'day from australia

#27 Post by Tom Smit » Fri Sep 27, 2013 12:43 am

Have you looked in your plans? It says Drill a hole for speaker wire through panel 1 and install 14 or 16 gauge polarized speaker wire. Seal the hole airtight with adhesive. Polarized lamp cord, or zip cord works as well, as long as it's the right gauge.
TomS

Grant Bunter
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Re: g'day from australia

#28 Post by Grant Bunter » Fri Sep 27, 2013 2:07 am

+1 Tom,

We don't use Gauge here.

So 14G = wire with a cross section of 2.08mm squared.
16G = wire with a cross section of 1.31mm squared.

Jaycar, if you have one near you, have a speaker wire that fits somewhere near the figures mentioned above. Catalogue number WB-1710 is so near to 16G at 1.288mm squared.

To hook up, ie amp to cabs, you can buy some premade ones, but if you're not adverse to trying to DIY, it's cheaper to buy speakons and cable and make them up yourself.

Jaycars "Pro Audio cable" is only 18G/ 0.82mm sq so a bit light, ie don't use it.

Until I got a 200m roll of the real deal, I used to use ordinary 10A extension lead cable, if you can find it in black all the better. This cable usually has brown and blue in 1mm sq and earth in 1.5mm sq. Strip the brown and blue and twist them together for +1 on the speakons and use the earth wire for -1 on the speakons and you have cables between 14 and 16G...
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" BP102 , 2 x 28" 3012lf.
WH8: x 3 with melded array.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...

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Rune Bivrin
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Location: Stockholm, Sweden

Re: g'day from australia

#29 Post by Rune Bivrin » Fri Sep 27, 2013 4:33 am

Grant Bunter wrote:Until I got a 200m roll of the real deal, I used to use ordinary 10A extension lead cable, if you can find it in black all the better. This cable usually has brown and blue in 1mm sq and earth in 1.5mm sq. Strip the brown and blue and twist them together for +1 on the speakons and use the earth wire for -1 on the speakons and you have cables between 14 and 16G...
Not that I'll pretend to know much about antipodean wiring, but it strikes me as a bit odd to have a thicker earth wire than the regular conductors, given that when everything works properly it shouldn't carry any current.
In build order:
O12 with no tweeter.
3 x WedgeHorns.
2 x Jack 10 without tweeters.
2 x DR250.
2 x 16" T39
1 x Tuba 24
2 x SLA Pro (sort of...)

Grant Bunter
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Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:12 am
Location: Ilfracombe Queensland Australia
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Re: g'day from australia

#30 Post by Grant Bunter » Fri Sep 27, 2013 2:57 pm

Rune Bivrin wrote: Not that I'll pretend to know much about antipodean wiring, but it strikes me as a bit odd to have a thicker earth wire than the regular conductors, given that when everything works properly it shouldn't carry any current.
Yes, I found it odd as well Rune.

There certainly are other offerings that don't have heavier earth wire, and generally they don't have sufficient area (on a single wire basis) to consider use as speaker cable, unless you go to heavier cable. Heavier cable (which has a 15 amp rating) was generally to thick to use with 1/4" plugs (or XLR's) back in the days when they were the only options, but is much less of a problem these days with speakons.

If you talk to sparky's here our standard wall outlet is rated to 10A, but in wall cabling is usually 20A to cover load. Since faults often relate to active, handy to think a slightly heavier wire to shunt to earth is available if a fault occurs...
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" BP102 , 2 x 28" 3012lf.
WH8: x 3 with melded array.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...

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