Engineering Student

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rcko
Posts: 23
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2011 9:59 pm
Location: Houghton, MI

Re: Engineering Student

#31 Post by rcko »

http://goo.gl/EnsGT
Better? 6 ohm overall resistance (3:4 ratio tweeters:drivers), at the lower limit of the receiver's guaranteed performance (6-16 ohm)

Image

Is there any difference between that one and this one? http://goo.gl/nxvwy
(Electrically it looks the same to me...)

Image

Charles Warwick
Posts: 586
Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 1:25 am
Location: Ames, Iowa

Re: Engineering Student

#32 Post by Charles Warwick »

Did you happen to see these as well:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=299-012

There are other users that are using these so you could follow their progress as well:
http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewt ... =5&t=15899

rcko
Posts: 23
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2011 9:59 pm
Location: Houghton, MI

Re: Engineering Student

#33 Post by rcko »

Gah,

I shall never be able to place an order if everyone keeps giving me better ideas!

How good will 4 TLAH's with the Sony Buyout Mids and Apex Jr. Tweeters sound?
Will the Peerless 4.5" work well in the TLAH and why would I spend 11.5 times as much money on them instead of the Sony's?
Will I need a dedicated amp for the TT or will the subwoofer-out on the Pioneer VSX-521-K suffice?

Charles Warwick
Posts: 586
Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 1:25 am
Location: Ames, Iowa

Re: Engineering Student

#34 Post by Charles Warwick »

rcko wrote:Will I need a dedicated amp for the TT or will the subwoofer-out on the Pioneer VSX-521-K suffice?
Yes as the subwoofer-out is a pre-out meaning that it is line level and meant to go into an amplifier.

rcko wrote:Will the Peerless 4.5" work well in the TLAH and why would I spend 11.5 times as much money on them instead of the Sony's?
The Peerless drivers are a lot nicer, and I would say that they would work better and probably sound better; but holistically, using a lot of speakers in the TLAHs makes the flaws of each driver less noticeable. As you said, these aren't supposed to be studio quality speakers and the Sony's will sound fine if you adjust the crossover properly, as mentioned in the other build thread. Something around 4000hz would be appropriate as these have a nasty peak around 5khz. I hooked 4 of them up in a cardboard box and they sound just fine, so put into a proper box and paired with a tweeter I bet they'd meet what you're looking for.

So, I'd say go with the Sony's since they are so incredibly cheap. It's hard to resist that logic, isn't it? 8)
rcko wrote:How good will 4 TLAH's with the Sony Buyout Mids and Apex Jr. Tweeters sound?
Which ones are those? Does anyone have an idea as to the freq. response of them? If you want to use the Sony's I'd make sure they are good down to 4k, otherwise find a cheap tweeter good to around 4k like these: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=299-965

el_ingeniero
Posts: 932
Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2010 11:46 pm
Location: Minneapolis, MN

Re: Engineering Student

#35 Post by el_ingeniero »

rcko wrote:Gah,

I shall never be able to place an order if everyone keeps giving me better ideas!

How good will 4 TLAH's with the Sony Buyout Mids and Apex Jr. Tweeters sound?
Will the Peerless 4.5" work well in the TLAH and why would I spend 11.5 times as much money on them instead of the Sony's?
Will I need a dedicated amp for the TT or will the subwoofer-out on the Pioneer VSX-521-K suffice?
4 TLAHs will rip your ears off. 2 will be more than fine, I'd think. Build 2 or 3 TTs instead.

rcko
Posts: 23
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2011 9:59 pm
Location: Houghton, MI

Re: Engineering Student

#36 Post by rcko »

Just bought:
1x - Dayton Audio SA240 240W Subwoofer Amplifier
26x - JAMO 20132 2" Paper Cone Tweeter
24x - Sony 5-1/4" Treated Paper Cone Square Frame Neodymium Woofer

got 2 extra of the tweeters just in case, 8 extra woofers because there was a price drop at 24x that made it cost nearly the same as 16x, so maybe I'll build a no-tweeter SLA or something for fun if I have time, plus 2 extra just in case.

Thanks guys. Going to get the recommended MCM subwoofer soon too.

Building 2 TLAH's (9x woofer, 12x tweeter) and one TT.

What type of wood should I buy? Thinking that bamboo is cheap and hard if I can find some around here. Otherwise just stiff plywood?

el_ingeniero
Posts: 932
Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2010 11:46 pm
Location: Minneapolis, MN

Re: Engineering Student

#37 Post by el_ingeniero »

rcko wrote:Just bought:
1x - Dayton Audio SA240 240W Subwoofer Amplifier
26x - JAMO 20132 2" Paper Cone Tweeter
24x - Sony 5-1/4" Treated Paper Cone Square Frame Neodymium Woofer

got 2 extra of the tweeters just in case, 8 extra woofers because there was a price drop at 24x that made it cost nearly the same as 16x, so maybe I'll build a no-tweeter SLA or something for fun if I have time, plus 2 extra just in case.

Thanks guys. Going to get the recommended MCM subwoofer soon too.

Building 2 TLAH's (9x woofer, 12x tweeter) and one TT.

What type of wood should I buy? Thinking that bamboo is cheap and hard if I can find some around here. Otherwise just stiff plywood?
Why the 2" paper cone tweeter? The smaller the tweet, the better the horizontal dispersion ...

Bamboo plywood is not cheap. You could try buying bamboo flooring on clearance and turning it into sheet goods.

Charles Warwick
Posts: 586
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Location: Ames, Iowa

Re: Engineering Student

#38 Post by Charles Warwick »

el_ingeniero wrote:Why the 2" paper cone tweeter? The smaller the tweet, the better the horizontal dispersion ...
True, but there aren't many tweeters that can smoothly cross at 4khz at that price point; you could even go to 3khz and perhaps flatten that large spike in response of the Sonys a bit better. I have considered piezos for this type of thing, but they are just too sensitive for home use (and especially with these woofers, 85db/w vs 94 db/w, that's a lot to even out, even with resistors)and would require trimming and gluing as well to minimize the center to center spacing which just makes things that much more complicated.

I mean, roughly, the dispersion will be about 90 degrees at 7khz, and, depending on cone break-up, it'll probably get lower from there and maybe start beaming at even higher frequencies. I don't think it'll be a big deal though because there are probably bigger factors affecting the overall sound, and I would be more concerned about the price and the raw response in the areas where it's more noticeable, like in the 2-7 khz.
rcko wrote:What type of wood should I buy?
1/2'' Arucuo if you can find it (usually at Lowes or Menards), but any 1/2'' cabinet grade plywood will do, at least 5 ply. If you can't find that, go for 1/2'' MDF which will work just fine as well especially if you plan on painting a nice high gloss finish.

el_ingeniero
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Location: Minneapolis, MN

Re: Engineering Student

#39 Post by el_ingeniero »

Charles Warwick wrote:1/2'' Arucuo if you can find it (usually at Lowes or Menards), but any 1/2'' cabinet grade plywood will do, at least 5 ply. If you can't find that, go for 1/2'' MDF which will work just fine as well especially if you plan on painting a nice high gloss finish.
I've even seen some pro cabs built out of 3/4" OSB and hit with a few coats of black latex.

rcko
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2011 9:59 pm
Location: Houghton, MI

Re: Engineering Student

#40 Post by rcko »

Local hardware store has 3/4" MDF for $22/half sheet. A half-sheet is enough to produce one speaker plus the jig.

I went with the 2" tweeter because someone suggested it, it's cheap, I'm impatient to get started, and because the stats looked good when I compared them with the sparse recommendations in the TLAH designs (less than 2.5", low enough to cross-over with the woofers).

Everything came in today, quite strange opening a box with 24 speaker drivers in it!

Housemate and I took a look at the house wiring and figured out how to plug all heavy loads into independent circuits. We're feeling weird about whether the wiring in this house is legitimate. Removed all the extension cords too.

el_ingeniero
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Re: Engineering Student

#41 Post by el_ingeniero »

You'd really rather have the 1/2" ply:

1) MDF is seriously heavy and releases clouds of nasty smelling, somewhat toxic dust when you cut it.
2) Going to 3/4" sheet goods means you have to rejigger the dimensions to make the inside of the cabinets the correct size.

It's worth looking for and finding. Is there not a Menard's near you? HD and Lowes purely suck for this kind of thing.

bassmonster
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Re: Engineering Student

#42 Post by bassmonster »

Seconding what el_ingeniero said, there was a guy on here a few days ago who built a cab out of MDF. Said it was heavy as anything, plus many people who have tried to build cabs out of MDF say it's a huge pain to work with. MDF is appealing because it's relatively cheap and doesn't really warp like regular ply does. But in the long run finding good quality Auraco or Baltic Birch is worth it. If you're down south like I am, there aren't many Menards, I know there aren't Menards anywhere near my town. I guess it's more popular up north or something.

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DJPhatman
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Re: Engineering Student

#43 Post by DJPhatman »

rcko, do yourself a small favor and look/ask for plywood that has a minimum of 5 equal plys with no thin veneers. It can be pretty much any species. Go to a real lumberyard, not the big box stores. Is there a custom kitchen cabinet builder within calling distance? (I haven't been north of the Big Mac in at least 15 years, so I know it has built up since then!) It may even be worth it to post if anyone is traveling down to the Detroit area, as it is available here. If someone is going to Toledo, you are golden!
I know money often seals the deal, but seriously, quality is an investment, not an expense... Grant Bunter
Accept the fact that airtight and well-braced are more important than pretty on the inside. Bill Fitzmaurice

rcko
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Location: Houghton, MI

Re: Engineering Student

#44 Post by rcko »

I got a full sheet of 1/2" AC (Auraco) Plywood, looks like 4-ply - the two edge layers are half thickness so there are 5 layers total but only 3 full thickness layers. Cost $44.

When/if I build the TT long-style I'll try to get some 5-ply AC.

BoostFab
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Re: Engineering Student

#45 Post by BoostFab »

rcko wrote:I got a full sheet of 1/2" AC (Auraco) Plywood, looks like 4-ply - the two edge layers are half thickness so there are 5 layers total but only 3 full thickness layers. Cost $44.

When/if I build the TT long-style I'll try to get some 5-ply AC.
Wow. Auraco price had gone up a few bucks since the last time I bought some. At that price range I would rather call the lumber yard for some BB.

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