Engineering Student
Re: Engineering Student
So more like a $100 2x100-Watt RMS Sherwood RX-4109 for the two TLAH's?:
http://www.amazon.com/Sherwood-RX-4109- ... pg__header
and $110 Dayton SA-100 for the TT?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=300-802
Just split the signal from my laptop with a good quality splitter and send it to both amps? Is there a better way to get the signal to two amps?
I was thinking http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-F8V234-WHT ... 356&sr=1-2
http://www.amazon.com/Sherwood-RX-4109- ... pg__header
and $110 Dayton SA-100 for the TT?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=300-802
Just split the signal from my laptop with a good quality splitter and send it to both amps? Is there a better way to get the signal to two amps?
I was thinking http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-F8V234-WHT ... 356&sr=1-2
Re: Engineering Student
No on the Sherwood, as it does not have a LF out, IOW a crossover, built in.
Will this ever be used for HT? Pick up a cheap HT 5.1 receiver, or go the pro route, and get a used mixer, crossover and stereo amp. I would go for the HT 5.1, myself. That will get plenty loud.
Will this ever be used for HT? Pick up a cheap HT 5.1 receiver, or go the pro route, and get a used mixer, crossover and stereo amp. I would go for the HT 5.1, myself. That will get plenty loud.
I know money often seals the deal, but seriously, quality is an investment, not an expense... Grant Bunter
Accept the fact that airtight and well-braced are more important than pretty on the inside. Bill Fitzmaurice
Accept the fact that airtight and well-braced are more important than pretty on the inside. Bill Fitzmaurice
Re: Engineering Student
For splitting the signal, you may wish to consider one of the options here:
http://www.minidsp.com/
You are an engineering student, right?
http://www.minidsp.com/
You are an engineering student, right?
Low End Junkie for over 20 years.
4 DR250s
4 Tuba36s @ 30" wide
2 ATs
...and a very serious addiction to the smell of BB sawdust and curing PL.
4 DR250s
4 Tuba36s @ 30" wide
2 ATs
...and a very serious addiction to the smell of BB sawdust and curing PL.
Re: Engineering Student
Chemical engineering
Besides, even engineers can be ignorant.
Those miniDSP kits look awesome, lots of ability to manipulate the signals.
Besides, even engineers can be ignorant.
Those miniDSP kits look awesome, lots of ability to manipulate the signals.
Re: Engineering Student
I have three brothers who are Chem E.'s, and my dad was a chemist for 40 years. If you can manage that level of specialization, you have the learning skills to teach yourself the basics of electronics. Engineers may be ignorant of a lot of things (social graces, pop culture, in a few cases hygiene), but one thing I know about engineers--give them a reasonable challenge, and present them with the tools or information required to overcome that challenge, and they will not rest until it's done.rcko wrote:Chemical engineering
Besides, even engineers can be ignorant.
Those miniDSP kits look awesome, lots of ability to manipulate the signals.
Low End Junkie for over 20 years.
4 DR250s
4 Tuba36s @ 30" wide
2 ATs
...and a very serious addiction to the smell of BB sawdust and curing PL.
4 DR250s
4 Tuba36s @ 30" wide
2 ATs
...and a very serious addiction to the smell of BB sawdust and curing PL.
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- Location: Ames, Iowa
Re: Engineering Student
Yes, use the 'audio out' jacks on the back of the receiver and feed it into the Dayton Sub Amp using a L/R RCA patch cable (you know, the red/white ones). The Dayton has a built in crossover that can be adjusted to whatever sounds right so you're in the green no matter what sub you end up choosing.rcko wrote:Is there a better way to get the signal to two amps?
I would also suggest maybe checking out the local pawn shops, craigslist, or garage sales for a cheap stereo receiver to save some money; as long as it works and has near 70-100 w/channel that's all you need. I've had good luck with basic used amps and it has saved me and my friends a decent amount of money over the years.
Re: Engineering Student
My school is in an extremely population-sparse area, not much can be found on craigslist/garage sales, etc. Pretty much gonna have to get it online one way or another.
Thanks for the info Charles.
Thanks for the info Charles.
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- Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2010 11:46 pm
- Location: Minneapolis, MN
Re: Engineering Student
Ebay is your friend.rcko wrote:My school is in an extremely population-sparse area, not much can be found on craigslist/garage sales, etc. Pretty much gonna have to get it online one way or another.
Thanks for the info Charles.
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- Posts: 932
- Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2010 11:46 pm
- Location: Minneapolis, MN
Re: Engineering Student
From another thread, http://www.woot.com/ has a $155 5.1 HT receiver for sale, that is just the thing. That would leave plenty for speakers.
Edit: whoops, spoke too soon: you still need that plate amplifier, but it doesn't need a built in crossover.
Edit: whoops, spoke too soon: you still need that plate amplifier, but it doesn't need a built in crossover.
Re: Engineering Student
Bought the Pioneer VSX-521-K from Woot! last night. Should get the plans for the TLAH shortly.
Great timing!
Also, threw a get together last night and I think I maybe figured out why the receiver caught fire. Normally only a rope light, christmas lights, and audio receiver are plugged into a power strip. When a keg is running, a mini-fridge may be plugged in too. With the mini-fridge also plugged in last night the rope lights almost caught fire, after running fine for 5 hours with no mini-fridge running, (then I plugged in the fridge) the rope lights started melting and burning the plastic housing plug-in thing in between sections of rope. Smelled awful.
There's probably a better way to distribute the load in the future, but I wonder why, if the power strip or outlet was overloaded, why didn't it heat up instead of the rope lights?
Great timing!
Also, threw a get together last night and I think I maybe figured out why the receiver caught fire. Normally only a rope light, christmas lights, and audio receiver are plugged into a power strip. When a keg is running, a mini-fridge may be plugged in too. With the mini-fridge also plugged in last night the rope lights almost caught fire, after running fine for 5 hours with no mini-fridge running, (then I plugged in the fridge) the rope lights started melting and burning the plastic housing plug-in thing in between sections of rope. Smelled awful.
There's probably a better way to distribute the load in the future, but I wonder why, if the power strip or outlet was overloaded, why didn't it heat up instead of the rope lights?
Re: Engineering Student
Maybe a voltage drop on that power bar because of the mini fridge kicking in, thus increasing the current flow through the lights which was within limits when it is just one string.
TomS
Re: Engineering Student
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=299-278 (Peerless 4.5" 4-ohm)
These are on a good sale. Will they work any better than the Goldwood GW-204/4S (which are $0.30/ea cheaper).
Also, would these fit my wants or are they crap?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=292-404
Thanks!
P.S. Bought plans for TLAH and Long-Version Table Tuba. Plan to start construction of TLAH next weekend.
Also, with regards to impedance, I think it makes sense to wire up 8 of the Peerless 4-ohm speakers to get an 8-ohm circuit. The VSX-521-K receiver can output 110W through 8-ohms. Being that each speaker is rated to 30 Watts-RMS (240W total) will the receiver output enough power for the system?
These are on a good sale. Will they work any better than the Goldwood GW-204/4S (which are $0.30/ea cheaper).
Also, would these fit my wants or are they crap?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=292-404
Thanks!
P.S. Bought plans for TLAH and Long-Version Table Tuba. Plan to start construction of TLAH next weekend.
Also, with regards to impedance, I think it makes sense to wire up 8 of the Peerless 4-ohm speakers to get an 8-ohm circuit. The VSX-521-K receiver can output 110W through 8-ohms. Being that each speaker is rated to 30 Watts-RMS (240W total) will the receiver output enough power for the system?
Re: Engineering Student
Also, if I used 10 8-ohm tweeters to get an 8-ohm network, would that work as well/better than 12 tweeters at 5.3 or 10.64 ohm equivalence? (2/3, 4/3 that of individual, respectively)
Re: Engineering Student
From the plans: "The preferred mid-bass driver size is 4 inches, but you can go a bit smaller or a bit larger if you desire, making the cabinet longer if larger drivers necessitate it. The target T/S specs are fs 100 Hz, Qts .5; somewhat lower fs and higher Qts doesn’t hurt. Vas is not important with drivers this small."
For the Peerless 4.5" driver: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=299-278
Fs: 114 Hz
Qts: 0.62
Right now it's my favorite ($8/ea when I get 16 of them!) but I don't know how these numbers will affect things. Thoughts?
For the Peerless 4.5" driver: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=299-278
Fs: 114 Hz
Qts: 0.62
Right now it's my favorite ($8/ea when I get 16 of them!) but I don't know how these numbers will affect things. Thoughts?
Re: Engineering Student
http://goo.gl/v8WNw
So I guess that this design for tweeter wiring would be bad because the final two speakers would be running at 4x the wattage of the other 8 tweeters?
The idea was to get an 8-ohm equivalence over the circuit as a whole.
So I guess that this design for tweeter wiring would be bad because the final two speakers would be running at 4x the wattage of the other 8 tweeters?
The idea was to get an 8-ohm equivalence over the circuit as a whole.