may i have some information please?

[klampykixx]

when designing a new bass horn, beside specific driver data (of course) how do you work out what sizes the throat/mouth(bell) length and the sealed chamber??? my friend wants a box made specifically for 80hz>200hz but running two cheap fifteens in one box, but he wants something similar to a W enclosure. any ideas ?

[BrentEvans]

when designing a new bass horn, beside specific driver data (of course) how do you work out what sizes the throat/mouth(bell) length and the sealed chamber??? my friend wants a box made specifically for 80hz>200hz but running two cheap fifteens in one box, but he wants something similar to a W enclosure. any ideas ?

First, why? It's obviously a kick bin, but the desired frequency range is a little more than one octave. Implementing this would be difficult. Kick bins usually introduce more problems than they solve.

Second, what style of music?
Third, what other cabinets are in use?
Fourth, what's the budget, and do you or your friend or your friend's friends have the tools and experience to build, and if so, at what level?

With these answers, perhaps we can help you design a system and a plan to get there that are both affordable and attainable for you.

[klampykixx]

First, why? It's obviously a kick bin, but the desired frequency range is a little more than one octave. Implementing this would be difficult. Kick bins usually introduce more problems than they solve.

Second, what style of music?
Third, what other cabinets are in use?
Fourth, what's the budget, and do you or your friend or your friend's friends have the tools and experience to build, and if so, at what level?

With these answers, perhaps we can help you design a system and a plan to get there that are both affordable and attainable for you.

umm yea sorry about the lack of info given, i was hoping there would be a very broad generalisation..

the speakers will actually be the 15s of mine. im giving them to him to stuff around with coz after comparing them to other speakers they are really lacking for what i want so away from my setup they go! however the fun doesnt stop there!! so just for fun, we were thinking of getting them as loud as possible on one particular frequency range and thought the Whorn would be the best shape to use both together(correct me if im wrong)
so based on a few very very basic measurements the speakers resonant freq was around the 40>50hz so i thought that an octave up from that would be a good spot to start tuning??? i could again be wrong.. but its primarily to stuff around with, in attemp to get it as loud as possible, at one small frequency range, to go into the "extreme" class of the outdoor sound off at a local autobarn so aiming PURELY at SPL. amp will be a 900W monoblock and it does not matter if they die in the process!! so wed be doin it cheaply, via MDF and my crappy drivers... as i said just for a bit of fun... so my main query was regarding the actual tuning of the enclosure, what is it about the shapes and sizes of a horn that makes it sound the way it does???

[SeisTres]

what is it about the shapes and sizes of a horn that makes it sound the way it does???

Google hornresp, download and install. If you do not want to go through loudspeaker theory and learn how to "decipher" the T/S parameters, it will be almost impossible to even know what your doing or what the generated charts actually mean. So I suggest you learn all that first before you start designing anything.

Then, once you have all that down, you start some reading on the horn theory. Of course, this is implying that you have the principles of acoustics already in the bag. Then the learning curve of horn resp is decreased from "F**** impossible" to " ".

Then, all there is to do is fold the horn if it needs a folding geometry. And TA DA! presto! A brand new cab for your 15's




OR just go here http://www.speakerplans.com/index.php?id=plans and build the hd15. Or just build a box and stick the driver in said box and be done with it.

[klampykixx]

awesom. i had tried downloading hornresp previously but for some reason wasnt available. but now is!! =]

also i have a question regarding the tubas im going to build, the common practise seems to be butting them up at 90 degrees with an expansion plate to increase the size of the mouth, which makes perfect sense, but can they just be sat next to each other straight? in thoery it would make the mouth even bigger?? coz im thinking of building the two cabs as one big one. is that a big no no or will it work ok like that?

a similar question can be asked of this sound off box too, if one horn with two speakers would be better than two individual horns with their independant (L/R)speakers ???

[Tom Smit]

The advantage of the plate is that it adds up to 3 db to the combined output of the cabs....all for free!
You most certainly can place the cabs beside each other standing up...or laying down....with all the mouths together. This could be used when one can't v-couple and plate because of the venue.
A double sized cab with dual drivers has the same tone and output as two cabs that are single-loaded. Advantage goes to single driver cabs due to being easier for load-in/out.
Run subs in mono.
Run horn subs in a cluster.

[klampykixx]

http://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl= ... 9,r:19,s:0

sorry about the huge link, but will tubas work well like this?? im thinking of building the two boxes base to base as one cab, is the 90 degree setup better or will this parallel setup do the same thing?

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

sorry about the huge link, but will tubas work well like this?? im thinking of building the two boxes base to base as one cab, is the 90 degree setup better or will this parallel setup do the same thing?

That is the worst possible way to arrange speakers. As for how to set up Tubas, read the placement sticky.

[klampykixx]

yea, i did read that. looks like the 90 degree with that extra plate is def the way to go. thanks for the help. i do have one last confirmation type question, is MDF a big no no?? or is just that its heavy and splits?

[tdogg]

is MDF a big no no?? or is just that its heavy and splits?

both of those problems sound like a big no. its fine for car sub boxes, but if youre going to be moving big cabs around, plywood is lighter and tougher by far. and in my town, aruaco and MDF are the same price.

[klampykixx]

ok, thats what i thought, i just read on the "freespeakerplans" website that some ply wood can split and look daggy also. my only local woodplace shut down, so the hardware store only carries basic ply... i dont even think its marine grade...

[klampykixx]

if i have to settle for something, is marine 1/2inch ply the absolutle least i should accept?