What should i do with 4x 15 inch +2x 12inch drivers!!!

[Bruce Weldy]

If I may offer some advice.....

If I understand correctly, you have some top boxes with a 15 and a horn, right? Build the Tubas. Run the Tubas and the tops you already have. There is no problem with a 12 in a sub and a 15 in the top box. As long as you use a crossover they won't be trying to fight for space in the same frequency range.

Forget about building top boxes for now. Use what you have, go play some gigs, make some money, then decide on OT12s or DRs. While you are out making some cash with your (now better) rig, read the entire forum....at least the DR and OT sections.

When you have the cash for a build, build 'em. Sell off the other stuff.

Most importantly though, don't feel like you have to use every speaker you own just because you own it. I run sound for a band with QSCs that have the 6in mid drivers - they sound good. My OT12s sound better and they are a third as big and a third as heavy. Don't get locked into what you've always thought you knew - these horn-loaded boxes are a whole different animal - I know, I've just taken the plunge in the last few months myself after 35 years of messing with direct radiators........clean you brain and start over. You will learn a lot of new things here.

[klampykixx]

ko, good advice thanks bruce. would you suggest then sealing up the full range cab so its no longer reflex? since i would no longer need the extra extention of bass. ? and then in saying that, i have a choice of two different woofers? should i use the one with the higher power handnling, or the lighter one?

[Bruce Weldy]

ko, good advice thanks bruce. would you suggest then sealing up the full range cab so its no longer reflex? since i would no longer need the extra extention of bass. ? and then in saying that, i have a choice of two different woofers? should i use the one with the higher power handnling, or the lighter one?

I'd just button 'em up the way they were intended to run. Let the crossover decide how much low end they get. I'm not familiar with the boxes you have, but I'd put the beefiest speaker you have in there, cross 'em over, and EQ 'em until they sound decent.

Then go make some cash so you can build some boxes that will be lighter, smaller, and louder than what you have.

Good luck.

[klampykixx]

i would like to thank everyone who has attempted to help on this topic. i know i havent exactly been easy to help, but i am gratefull for all of the advice. i guess i was finding it hard to believe becuase of my preconceptions on what works.

setup= 2x tuba30 +2x eminence delta 12LFA on 200w each.
+ 2x weconic full range +2xDJtech 15inch driver+Horn tweeter. on 250w each.

so everyone thinks/agrees this will be an ok interim setup?

[Doug Hart]

so everyone thinks/agrees this will be an ok interim setup?

I think that's your bet bet for now.

[klampykixx]

cool, so brand new question!! =P whats better in regard to a horn tweeter?
a smooth glossy shiny horn or a textured type finish?

and then on to the shape, whats the difference between a rectangular parabolic type horn
compared to the flat sided type with different angled sections?

[WB]

whats better in regard to a horn tweeter?
a smooth glossy shiny horn or a textured type finish?

The shiny one.

[klampykixx]

do i have to use ply?? is it the weight factor or the sound factor? also, what should i coat them in?

if i carpet them on the inside will that affect the sound?

and do i need to fill the sealed part of the tuba with wadding or anything like that?

[tdogg]

do i have to use ply?? is it the weight factor or the sound factor? also, what should i coat them in?

its an issue of strength and weight. (compared to MDF). find some 1/2" ply with at least 5 even plys and you will be good to go.

and do i need to fill the sealed part of the tuba with wadding or anything like that?

nope. not on subs.

[klampykixx]

so as long as its 5 ply, is there a reason for specifying baltic birch besides its strength? is there anything wrong with generic ply i can get at the hardware store? my thoughts were that as long as its braced properly it should be ok?

can i put a bitumen based sealant on the cabs? its an automotive based sealant/sound deadener.

[tdogg]

so as long as its 5 ply, is there a reason for specifying baltic birch besides its strength?

baltic birch also doesnt warp, making building easier. and it dents less easily than softwood, making your cabs look nicer longer. i use "aruaco" plywood from menards. its only about $25 per sheet, almost zero voids and the sheets hardly warp compared to regular ply.

is there anything wrong with generic ply i can get at the hardware store? my thoughts were that as long as its braced properly it should be ok?

some guys have used "regular" ply and got away with it. problem is that standard grades of ply are full of voids. and they warp more readily, this will be a serious pain when you are trying to build. and a void could lead to a rattle or a leak after your build is done. try looking for Aruaco. menards and lowes carry it. where are you located?

[klampykixx]

located in australia. east coast.