1st post, hello!

[Trauma11]

Hey everyone I'm new around here, just looking to get some information and contribute when I start my build.

I am a dj, I spin mostly edm but also top 40s, hip hop and everything that encompasses a wedding or other formal event. I would consider myself a novice when it comes to pro sound although I have had exposure in the classroom and real world settings. That being said, go easy on me.

Why did I choose to build bfm cabs? Well being a sound enthusiast, I want the best sound for the lowest price and I didn't want to sacrifice quality. Also my entire family owns various construction companies, one of which is a high end kitchen cabinet business. I'll have access to that shop, as well as the hands of many skilled carpenters.

What am I concerned about? I'm not overly knowledgable on sound and I've never run a full setup like this before but I pick things up quick and can learn on my own.

What am I going to build? To start I'm going to build 2 dual loaded tuba 30s and two tops to go with them, which brings me to my first question. What's a good top to pair with the tuba 30 given that I want to entertain around 300 people and spin mostly edm? Statistically the dr280 seems right but it's a little bigger and heavier than I'm desiring and the OT12 and 15s seem decent buy have a higher overall construction cost from my understanding. Could I get by with dr250s??

My eventual goal would be to build a total of 4 tuba 30s with four tops. In those opinion who have built these would it be easiest to get all the wood at once and cut all the pieces for all 8 cabs or is it easy enough to build the 4 and then 4 more a few months later?

Also I just mailed the money order for my plans so I don't have them yet but at what stage are the electronic components added? The reason I ask is because I'm curious how much of the second set of 4 cabs I could build only buying wood and hardware?

Baltic birch is $35 and change at the local lumber yard, how does that fair to what you guys have seen?

I plan to run them off crown amplifiers with dsp when they are complete so does that mean as crossovers needed for the tops and stuff?

Sorry if my questions seem a bit elementary, but thanks in advance for any help

[Trauma11]

I spoke with my uncle and he was curious about the finishing options of the cabs. I'm guessing the plans instruct to use duratex as that's what I've seen everyone else using? And is that for durability and a nice clean finish, that was my guess? Also having experience building speakers, he asked why the speaker was built with the Baltic birch vs mdf?

Thanks again
Brett

[LelandCrooks]

Hey everyone I'm new around here, just looking to get some information and contribute when I start my build.

Welcome

To start I'm going to build 2 dual loaded tuba 30s

Build 4 singles. Even if the total width is the same as the two dual wide cabs, it's more versatile. If you can end up with more width in 4 you'll be better off.

Could I get by with dr250s??

Get by. DR250's don't get you by. They get you noticed.

My eventual goal would be to build a total of 4 tuba 30s with four tops. In those opinion who have built these would it be easiest to get all the wood at once and cut all the pieces for all 8 cabs

Build 1. Then build another. For sure do not try to precut anything accurately. Cut with an inch or so extra, then fine tune on the table saw as you build.

Baltic birch is $35 and change at the local lumber yard, how does that fair to what you guys have seen?

Fair price. About what I pay.

I plan to run them off crown amplifiers with dsp when they are complete so does that mean as crossovers needed for the tops and stuff?

xTI's have everything you need built in. XLS drivecores are excellent for tops, work for subs if you keep an eye on the limits. They don't have low pass and high pass combined on one channel, which is needed for subs.

why the speaker was built with the Baltic birch vs mdf?

MDF is totally not suitable for cabs that get hauled. Too heavy, too fragile, it's pretty much useless for any box except home stereo. Be careful with experienced cabinet builders. They will look at the plans and question this and that and this and that. Follow the plans exactly for the first couple of boxes. No shortcuts.

Duratex is a great finish. Easy to apply and very tough. Slightly biased here, I sell it.

Have fun

[bzb]

+1 to basically everything Leland says, especially the part about letting experienced woodworkers look at the plans. The biggest hurdle, if you've ever built anything with even a rudimentary knowledge of woodworking, is getting over the butt joints used in everything.

+1 MDF will kill your back, and guaranteed will chip/smash/crush up. 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood is used for skateboards... that should tell you how strong it is.

+1 again on the Duratex. Again, my skepticism caused me to buy twice

Just my minor input here:

As a mobile DJ, I play similar music to you, except I play old school hip hop mostly, then Top 40, wedding/reception music, and house. Not so much other types of EDM

I specifically decided last year to reduce weight on my rig. Going with Titans, Omni Tops, and the XTi series has been nothing short of a joy on my back muscles.

I'm perfectly satisfied with T39s passed at 45Hz and 90Hz. The current ones I have (13" BP102 loaded) weigh in just under 55 lbs each. The 24 incher I'm almost done with is at 72 lbs without the driver installed, Duratex, or other minor hardware... should be just over 80 when finished.

I previously owned Peavey active and passive cabs that were about the same size as a T30. Giant cubes are just not fun to move, IMO. I also owned active B-52 Act18X subs, which were a hefty 120 lbs... but they were easier to lift due to them being more like Titans - about 3' tall and 20" or so wide.

I'm not trying so much to talk you out of the T30, but just letting you know that the Titans - although specified for live sound - are fully capable of making a DJ happy.

[Trauma11]

Wow thanks for all the help

Btw Leland, Ill be purchasing all the stuff for this build from you, if you wouldnt mind PMing me what you could do for a total price on the following that would be awesome:

2x Tuba 30 kit with Kappalite 3012lf and 2 NL4 & 2 1/4 for the terminal
2x DR 250 Piezo Deluxe Kit with 20 Piezos, 2 NL4 & 2 1/4, and flush handles
Enough duratex to cover the 4 cabs (how much is that anyway) Ill decide to spray or brush it on later

and also what the total would be for the same package but with 4x each cab

thanks!

Also as another note on the exp builder thing, I read all of the faq's and actually told him on the phone today that I wanted to follow the plans exactly. I will be the primary person building the speakers along with my cousin, but he will be there to help and let us use his tools. Also I am using Baltic Birch, I just needed an answer to give him, also duratex it is.

As for amps, Ill probably use a Crown Xti for the subs and an xls or xti for the tops.

Thanks again for the help so far

[Trauma11]

Leland,

I'm intrigued by the Digmodo powered setup, I believe on your site it says it can power four tubas with the 3012 drivers, maybe you could arrange a package with all the same goodies except for a 4 cab setup and shoot me a price?

From peoples personal experiences would be it be better to go this route or build them seperate and use a crown amp

[LelandCrooks]

Send me an email. questions@speakerhardware.com I can't keep track using the pm system.

[Trauma11]

Sent

[Gauss]

Welcome to the forum.

The DR series require more time, tools and expertise, but you end up with more sensitivity (i.e. volume). The OT series have many happy fans as well. I think it boils down to how much you like woodworking and when you want your speakers finished.

You will want to get the crossovers for the tops, they have separate woofer and tweeter components. You can skip the optional crossover for the sub, since you're getting the amp with digital processing.

The finish is up to you (stain, paint, carpet, truck bed liner, etc.) but Duratex has been good and easy for many, including myself.

[Trauma11]

Thanks for the advice

Are you sure with the crown amp that I need the crossovers?? Either way I'll use the amp or the 500w crossover or both

Thanks again

[Trauma11]

Also I decided to go with the dr250 and t30s for certain, I enjoy woodworking, and think this would be a good way to learn more and I will be surrounded by skilled wood workers so I think it will go well

[Gauss]

That will be a serious, top-notch sound system. The crossovers in the DR250 will take the input from the amp and separate it into the woofer-only band and the tweeter-only band. If you want to avoid the crossover components, you'll require an extra amp channel (stereo amps have two channels, you will need three) and an extra cable per top (or else a 4-wire cable, still adding more cash than the components).

I should add that I tried to save money by ordering all my components separately for my T39 build and ended up spending more than ordering the kit from speakerhardware.com.

[Trauma11]

I am getting everything from speaker hardware, leland is pricing out a big complete package for me

Thanks again for the help