PL vs. wood glue
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PL vs. wood glue
I've become a huge fan of PL, using it for lots of other types of projects around the house too. However, I have a question. Is there any downside to using a good wood glue for some of the face to face joints? For instance, the woofer spacer to baffle (assuming no mesh), or some of the places specifying to double up 1/4" ply to give 1/2" thickness. PLs great, but the mess is sometimes annoying.
2xT30 (20", 3012LF)
2xT30 (21", 3012LF)
4xOtop J-array (Beta12, melded/straight piezos)
Truck Tuba (MCM)
Next up: 2xJack12 or family of table tubas
2xT30 (21", 3012LF)
4xOtop J-array (Beta12, melded/straight piezos)
Truck Tuba (MCM)
Next up: 2xJack12 or family of table tubas
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- Location: New Braunfels, TX
Re: PL vs. wood glue
If the woofer is sitting on top of the spacer, then yes it has to be airtight and you should use PL. If you just mean the blocks behind the baffle in some designs for holding the driver screws, then no.himhimself wrote: ↑Mon Aug 20, 2018 2:16 pm I've become a huge fan of PL, using it for lots of other types of projects around the house too. However, I have a question. Is there any downside to using a good wood glue for some of the face to face joints? For instance, the woofer spacer to baffle (assuming no mesh), or some of the places specifying to double up 1/4" ply to give 1/2" thickness. PLs great, but the mess is sometimes annoying.
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
Re: PL vs. wood glue
PL is like making love. You get better at it over time.
BFM builds:
XF212
T24 BP102 24"
2x SLA's 6-5" mids, 9- gt-302's
2x AT 14" MCM 55-2421
TrT 5" MCM 55-2421
AT 18" JBL GTO804
2x OT12 flat array
2x SLA Pro 2-Alpha 6's 2-Goldwoods
2x T39 24" 3012lf
Simplex 10 BP102
XF212
T24 BP102 24"
2x SLA's 6-5" mids, 9- gt-302's
2x AT 14" MCM 55-2421
TrT 5" MCM 55-2421
AT 18" JBL GTO804
2x OT12 flat array
2x SLA Pro 2-Alpha 6's 2-Goldwoods
2x T39 24" 3012lf
Simplex 10 BP102
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- Posts: 8317
- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
- Location: New Braunfels, TX
Re: PL vs. wood glue
And get some surgical gloves.....it's worth the small expense....
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
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- Posts: 1648
- Joined: Wed Mar 25, 2009 7:07 pm
- Location: Medicine Hat, Alberta, Canada
Re: PL vs. wood glue
And don't wipe it, you will make a bigger mess. Let it set up for ~4 hours (temp, humidity depending) until it is not tacky any more but still very pliable and then tool it.
I use these cheap artist tools from Michaels:
Let it set for 4-5 hours, too long and it will get too hard, too soon and it is still messy:
Then it will tool very easy, finished result:
After a bit of practice you can get the joints looking perfect even with 1/8" gaps in the wood. I don't even remotely try to make my cuts perfect anymore, not worth the effort.
I use these cheap artist tools from Michaels:
Let it set for 4-5 hours, too long and it will get too hard, too soon and it is still messy:
Then it will tool very easy, finished result:
After a bit of practice you can get the joints looking perfect even with 1/8" gaps in the wood. I don't even remotely try to make my cuts perfect anymore, not worth the effort.
Built:
17" width 10" driver Autotuba
2 x 29" width dual Lab12 Tuba60
6 x DR250 2510/asd1001
In progress:
2 x DR250 2510/asd1001
For best results, point the loud end of the array towards the audience
17" width 10" driver Autotuba
2 x 29" width dual Lab12 Tuba60
6 x DR250 2510/asd1001
In progress:
2 x DR250 2510/asd1001
For best results, point the loud end of the array towards the audience
- James Champer
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- Joined: Thu Aug 23, 2012 7:00 pm
- Location: BF Builder - Indianapolis
- Contact:
Re: PL vs. wood glue
It is easier after just a couple of hours but.. If you have sharp chisels, and I mean sharp, it doesn't matter when you decide to trim the squeeze out. I've even waited several days.
And let's be real here, every wood chisel should be sharp
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And let's be real here, every wood chisel should be sharp
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Retired Authorized Loudspeaker Builder - Indianapolis, IN
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- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
- Location: New Braunfels, TX
Re: PL vs. wood glue
I usually wait an hour or two, then run a utility knife down one panel then the other. Leaves a nice corner and the piece of PL just falls away.
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
- Rune Bivrin
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- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
Re: PL vs. wood glue
For that particular application I have no doubts about using regular wood glue. Just cover the surfaces completely. Not getting that air tight is almost a feat. I used regular wood glue for the doubling up of 1/4" in my DR 250-s. The expansion of PL would have been more of a problem than a blessing there, I think.himhimself wrote: ↑Mon Aug 20, 2018 2:16 pm I've become a huge fan of PL, using it for lots of other types of projects around the house too. However, I have a question. Is there any downside to using a good wood glue for some of the face to face joints? For instance, the woofer spacer to baffle (assuming no mesh), or some of the places specifying to double up 1/4" ply to give 1/2" thickness. PLs great, but the mess is sometimes annoying.
For braces and panel joints, PL Premium (or something equivalent) is absolutely advised. It's not just about being air tight, it's also about not having voids that can vibrate and cause noise.
In build order:
O12 with no tweeter.
3 x WedgeHorns.
2 x Jack 10 without tweeters.
2 x DR250.
2 x 16" T39
1 x Tuba 24
2 x SLA Pro (sort of...)
O12 with no tweeter.
3 x WedgeHorns.
2 x Jack 10 without tweeters.
2 x DR250.
2 x 16" T39
1 x Tuba 24
2 x SLA Pro (sort of...)