Arrr, well, you're correct!Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:Wrong section, it should be in Tips and Techniques.Grant Bunter wrote:Is it worth a sticky Bill?
Please move it there and pin it.
Rather than have it fall off, it could help many...
Arrr, well, you're correct!Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:Wrong section, it should be in Tips and Techniques.Grant Bunter wrote:Is it worth a sticky Bill?
88h88 wrote:Anyone got any recommendations for stuff to put on a tabletop to stop solder damage? If there's something nice I can acquire then I'll do that as I prefer to solder in the house rather than in the garage. If not then I guess I'll just hack up some ply.
These connectors are OK for some purposes. However, they are a spring loaded connection and rely on the spring to provide good electrical contact. As current increases the connector will start to heat due to the contact resistance, which in turn weakens the spring, exacerbating the resistance situation, thus generating more heat.Robin_Larsson wrote:I agree with there Bruce, I´m rather happy with my 48W soldering station, havent tried it on max temp, 450C, yet, I´ll do that next time I solder 12-14 ga to speakons:) I usually run it at around 300C I think when soldering XLR/TRS, works like a charmBruce Weldy wrote: Well, this is definitely a "to each his own" moment.
My Weller station gets very hot on the max setting - no problem soldering 12 ga wire to Speakon chassis mount connectors. I typically turn it down a little for 20-22ga wire when doing xlr and trs. And I do build a bunch of 'em.
But, aside from price, is there any reason to not use crimped Faston/spade-sleeve connectors? I found somewhere that the 4.8mm version only handles up to 15A, which is a bit low, the speakons themselves handles 30A.. Not that we get anywhere near 30A with Bills speakers!
It is open for debate if crimping is indeed superior to soldering, But If a crimp style connector must be used, a good crimp followed by soldering is still the best.AntonZ wrote: I happily admit that while I'm convinced good crimping is better, I solder most of my connections (I never seem to have the correct size spade connectors in stock when I need them).
Just reading some of the comments on this rather old thread. A little bit of extra flux can certainly help with oxidized connections. If the commercially prepared liquid flux can't be sourced, you can make your own by dissolving some violin rosin in alcohol; this is exactly the same as the commercial product.skuzz wrote:While unnecessary for non-SMDs, liquid electronics solder flux makes soldering much easier. It's a messy but essential part of my electrical tool bag.
http://www.amazon.com/GC-Electronics-So ... older+flux
Interesting. What would be the ratio?byacey wrote:Just reading some of the comments on this rather old thread. A little bit of extra flux can certainly help with oxidized connections. If the commercially prepared liquid flux can't be sourced, you can make your own by dissolving some violin rosin in alcohol; this is exactly the same as the commercial product.skuzz wrote:While unnecessary for non-SMDs, liquid electronics solder flux makes soldering much easier. It's a messy but essential part of my electrical tool bag.
http://www.amazon.com/GC-Electronics-So ... older+flux
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