Jack 210 bass cab

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LiefStevens
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Jack 210 bass cab

#1 Post by LiefStevens »

After I managed to blow the speakers in my SWR Super Redhead for the second time I decided to build a Jack 210. I used Arauco plywood from Lowes, Deltalite II 2510 speakers, and 16 1016 piezos. I wired the piezo array with a on/half on/off switch. I went back and forth on making it and "Airhead" but ended up making a separate matching 3 space rack. I routed holes for the handles and butterfly clips. It has tilt back casters and a extendable handle. I painted the inside of the cabinet and the rack purple and the rest is painted with 3 coats of Duratex. Took me about 3 weeks to build.

The rack will be loaded with a Genz-Benz Streamliner 600 (as soon a I get the rack kit), a wireless and compressor. I only recently bought the SL600 and am still getting use to it.

I was playing for the musical Footloose all last week and used a Stingray 5, SL600 and a Carvin 210 for most of the shows. I manged to get the Jack done in time to use it for the last two shows. I was very impressed with the sound.

When I was using my Redhead I cut my lows and boosted the mids a bit. The SL600 is very bassy and a bit mid shy. With the Carvin I need to cut the lows and boost the mids a fair amount but with the Jack I can leave the eq fairly flat. So far I think the Jack sounds great. My volume seems to be very consistent over all my strings. In the past I have had to cut my lows to avoid over powering my high strings and to cut through. With the Jack I am finding I can have a lot of low end with out loosing clarity.

I haven't had a chance to use it much yet. I play in a wedding band and a funk band and I have a lot of gigs coming up so I will report back after I have a little more experience with it. So far I'm loving it.
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LiefStevens
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Re: Jack 210 bass cab

#2 Post by LiefStevens »

A few more pictures...
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Chris_Allen
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Re: Jack 210 bass cab

#3 Post by Chris_Allen »

That is a fabulous looking cab. Is the handle once extended a little too high?

How does it compare weight wise?
Built:
6xDR200, 2xT39, 2xT48, 2xJack110, 1xOmni10.5, 1xAutotuba, 1xT18, 1xSLA Pro, 1xW8, 1xW10

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LiefStevens
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Re: Jack 210 bass cab

#4 Post by LiefStevens »

No it's the perfect height for me. It also locks in place when extended or retracted. I bought it from TCH http://www.tchweb.com/tchstore/product/ ... Black.html

I haven't had a chance to weigh it yet but I think it is a bit lighter that my Redhead.

dcodym
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Re: Jack 210 bass cab

#5 Post by dcodym »

Wow, man, awesome build. I'm working on a Jack 212. I'm going to throw the wheels on the bottom like you did.

Can you show some photos of how you have it wired up inside? I'm throwing 8 piezos in mine, so I'm thinking that your wiring will be similar to how mine should end up looking. I'm just nervous about screwing it up and wouldn't mind a few reference picks to have next to my plans when I start on it.

Beautiful cab. The rack looks sweet as well.

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LiefStevens
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Re: Jack 210 bass cab

#6 Post by LiefStevens »

The tilt back caster idea came from "NoGraveConcern" on Talkbass http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f15/jack- ... ld-670856/
He recommended not using the casters he used but recommended using these http://www.reliablehardware.com/cornercastertilt.aspx as they are easier to seal and make air tight. I used the non corner version and some caulk to make them air tight. With the tilt casters you will need to add about 5" to the bottom of the back to attach the casters to. It makes attaching the speaker a little harder but not to bad. NoGraveConcern also gave me the following advice which I followed.
"Also, be aware that the tilt castors have a 90 degree bend and not a 1/2" radius like the other hardware. I just stopped my router short of where the castor would be so that it made a gradual transition in the edge of the wood from 1/2 radius to 90 degree."

For the wiring I don't have any pictures handy but I used the diagram Harley posted here for the DPDT switch. http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewt ... DT#p150624
For the crossover I bought the following from speakerhardware.com “2k Piezo Array High Pass Filter”, “Low Pass Filter 2k 4ohm 500 watt”, and “2 way Circuit Board”. Used 20 gage wire on the piezos and 14 gage on everything else.

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Tom Smit
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Re: Jack 210 bass cab

#7 Post by Tom Smit »

I was massaging my wife's shoulders as she scrolled down the page and saw the pictures. She said "Wow, is that ever a nice cab!"

Congrats!
TomS

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AntonZ
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Re: Jack 210 bass cab

#8 Post by AntonZ »

Your wife reads the BFM forum, Tom? She must be special.

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: Jack 210 bass cab

#9 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

AntonZ wrote:Your wife reads the BFM forum, Tom? She must be special.
More likely making sure he's not cruising porn sites. :loler:

Gregory East
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Re: Jack 210 bass cab

#10 Post by Gregory East »

Speaker porn might be just the ticket. Bada Boom Chick!

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Tom Smit
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Re: Jack 210 bass cab

#11 Post by Tom Smit »

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:
AntonZ wrote:Your wife reads the BFM forum, Tom? She must be special.
More likely making sure he's not cruising porn sites. :loler:
Yes, my wife reads the forum.....but not for the reason that Bill suggested.

Most nights she would like a shoulder/neck massage to relieve muscle tension (might be from work/stress). So, while she sits in front of the monitor getting the massage, she reads. I stand behind her and I read while massaging.....two birds, one stone kinda' thing. :D
TomS

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Harley
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Re: Jack 210 bass cab

#12 Post by Harley »

LiefStevens wrote:.... I have a lot of gigs coming up so I will report back after I have a little more experience with it. So far I'm loving it.
Any update on how it's sounding and working for you?
ImageSemi-retired: Former Australia and New Zealand Authorised BFM cab builder.

dcodym
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Re: Jack 210 bass cab

#13 Post by dcodym »

LiefStevens wrote:The tilt back caster idea came from "NoGraveConcern" on Talkbass http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f15/jack- ... ld-670856/
He recommended not using the casters he used but recommended using these http://www.reliablehardware.com/cornercastertilt.aspx as they are easier to seal and make air tight. I used the non corner version and some caulk to make them air tight. With the tilt casters you will need to add about 5" to the bottom of the back to attach the casters to. It makes attaching the speaker a little harder but not to bad. NoGraveConcern also gave me the following advice which I followed.
"Also, be aware that the tilt castors have a 90 degree bend and not a 1/2" radius like the other hardware. I just stopped my router short of where the castor would be so that it made a gradual transition in the edge of the wood from 1/2 radius to 90 degree."

For the wiring I don't have any pictures handy but I used the diagram Harley posted here for the DPDT switch. http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewt ... DT#p150624
For the crossover I bought the following from speakerhardware.com “2k Piezo Array High Pass Filter”, “Low Pass Filter 2k 4ohm 500 watt”, and “2 way Circuit Board”. Used 20 gage wire on the piezos and 14 gage on everything else.
Thanks for the info, man. I got my crossovers from Leland as well. They look great. And thanks for the thread you showed me there.

dcodym
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Re: Jack 210 bass cab

#14 Post by dcodym »

Oh, and yeah, NoGraveConcern's Jack was totally the inspiration for me throwing in the wheels and handle. I'm going to use the 90 degree handle like his.

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LiefStevens
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Re: Jack 210 bass cab

#15 Post by LiefStevens »

Yeah I think the 212 is tall enough that you wouldn't need the extending handle. I'll post some more about the sound after next weekend (3 gigs).

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