Jack 210 bass cab
- LiefStevens
- Posts: 207
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- Location: Asheville, NC - Authorized Builder
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Re: Jack 210 bass cab
I played 2 very different gigs this weekend. Friday I played with a funk band in a medium sized club. There was a soundman and a large house sound system. Saturday I played a large wedding (300+) in a tent. So far I have nothing but good things to say about the Jack. It cuts through and sit well in a mix. It gets stupid loud! I really like the low end on this cab. It's very clean and not at all muddy. For finger style stuff I am really liking the piezos off but I'm glad I added them for slap stuff. I wish I had the piezos wired up to some kind of foot switch so I could turn them on or off faster. Any Ideas?
My keyboard player now wants me to build him a Jack. I'm thinking a 1x12 would be good.
Here is a picture with my SL600 and wireless mounted in my matching rack.
My keyboard player now wants me to build him a Jack. I'm thinking a 1x12 would be good.
Here is a picture with my SL600 and wireless mounted in my matching rack.
Re: Jack 210 bass cab
LiefStevens wrote:I played 2 very different gigs this weekend. Friday I played with a funk band in a medium sized club. There was a soundman and a large house sound system. Saturday I played a large wedding (300+) in a tent. So far I have nothing but good things to say about the Jack. It cuts through and sit well in a mix. It gets stupid loud! I really like the low end on this cab. It's very clean and not at all muddy. For finger style stuff I am really liking the piezos off but I'm glad I added them for slap stuff. I wish I had the piezos wired up to some kind of foot switch so I could turn them on or off faster. Any Ideas?
My keyboard player now wants me to build him a Jack. I'm thinking a 1x12 would be good.
Here is a picture with my SL600 and wireless mounted in my matching rack.
That looks great.Im currently looking into some Jacks.Im probably going 2x112,but that 210 has me thinking.we are pretty loud-Id worry if a 210 would be enough.
Re: Jack 210 bass cab
Beautiful cab, man.
- LiefStevens
- Posts: 207
- Joined: Thu Sep 23, 2010 10:46 am
- Location: Asheville, NC - Authorized Builder
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Re: Jack 210 bass cab
Finished my single Jack 10s and I am digging them. For bass, playing through a single Jack has a more noticeable mid bump. I like a lot of mids so I actually like the sound of one cab. Even a single cab gets really loud. It could easily keep up with my band. With 2 cabs or a 210 the sound is more balanced and full sounding. I kinda wish I had built 2 jack 10s instead of a Jack 210 for my bass rig. My single Jack 10s are going to be used as a PA with my newly finished T39s. I will eventually be replacing them with DR200's when I can get around to building them.
Here is a picture of my super stack.
(not really going to use it this way but it looks cool )
Here is a picture of my super stack.
(not really going to use it this way but it looks cool )
Re: Jack 210 bass cab
Nice! You have inspired me to change my sig.
Once you go Jack, you never go back!
Done:
(2) Jack 12, 3012ho, Straight Array with On/Off Switch
In Process
(4) Dr200 Beta 8, Melded Array
Done:
(2) Jack 12, 3012ho, Straight Array with On/Off Switch
In Process
(4) Dr200 Beta 8, Melded Array
- cheapbasslovin
- Posts: 143
- Joined: Sat Apr 16, 2011 5:30 am
- Location: Portland OR
Re: Jack 210 bass cab
Maybe add a 1/4 inch switching jack that breaks when the cable is inserted. Run that in series with your piezo toggle. Then run a cable out to a footswitch. The only problem with this is the cable length could be an issue, but if you hang near your speakers it should be fine. Another issue could be popping so if you try it I would suggest running some tests at low voltages first and then work up to gig levels to prevent damage.LiefStevens wrote:I wish I had the piezos wired up to some kind of foot switch so I could turn them on or off faster. Any Ideas?
EDIT::: On second thought the popping could be a real problem. I know there is a solution to your problem, and mine might be it, but I'm not dead certain about the ramifications.
Mrrmensneturguneffferremantun
- jswingchun
- Posts: 1073
- Joined: Fri Dec 01, 2006 9:43 am
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Re: Jack 210 bass cab
That does look cool, and you should totally use it after you build your DRs for your PA!LiefStevens wrote:Here is a picture of my super stack.
(not really going to use it this way but it looks cool )
Omni 10
Omni 10.5
OmniTop 12 x 4
Wedgehorn 8 x 3
XF212
T39 @ 18" x 2
T39 @ 20" x 2
T39 @ 28" x 2
Jack 110 x 5
Jack Lite 12
XF210
XF210 (Slant only, no crossfire)
Omni 10.5
OmniTop 12 x 4
Wedgehorn 8 x 3
XF212
T39 @ 18" x 2
T39 @ 20" x 2
T39 @ 28" x 2
Jack 110 x 5
Jack Lite 12
XF210
XF210 (Slant only, no crossfire)
Re: Jack 210 bass cab
I would also be interested in a safe way to remotely switch piezos on/off during performance. Why would the proposal above cause popping? Are there better (safer?) ways to achieve this?
I think I have seen some commercial bass cabs with a tweeter footswitch, but didn't really think about it much. Great idea though, and great lookin cab too
I think I have seen some commercial bass cabs with a tweeter footswitch, but didn't really think about it much. Great idea though, and great lookin cab too
- LiefStevens
- Posts: 207
- Joined: Thu Sep 23, 2010 10:46 am
- Location: Asheville, NC - Authorized Builder
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Re: Jack 210 bass cab
I might experiment a bit with a footswitch. Now that I have a 2 channel amp it is less of a concern. I set my tube channel with the highs rolled off and my fet channel with strong highs for slapping. I am loving this amp!
- cheapbasslovin
- Posts: 143
- Joined: Sat Apr 16, 2011 5:30 am
- Location: Portland OR
Re: Jack 210 bass cab
It probably wouldn't cause any problems to rig a switch that way. I know that when bypass switches are made and broken in a line level signal, it can create a significant pop, but that is on pretty light voltage signals and that pop gets amplified to pretty loud levels . With a footswitch on a speaker level signal, the pop wont get amplified and is a much smaller signal relative to the main, so it should be fine. I just don't want anyone to smoke an amp or piezos on my recommendation since I haven't done it myself.deathjazz wrote:I would also be interested in a safe way to remotely switch piezos on/off during performance. Why would the proposal above cause popping? Are there better (safer?) ways to achieve this?
I think I have seen some commercial bass cabs with a tweeter footswitch, but didn't really think about it much. Great idea though, and great lookin cab too
Mrrmensneturguneffferremantun
Re: Jack 210 bass cab
That's what I was thinkin, but not really sure without trying it. I guess, though, that adjusting my footswitchable eq would achieve similar results
Re: Jack 210 bass cab
LiefStevens wrote:For bass, playing through a single Jack has a more noticeable mid bump. I like a lot of mids so I actually like the sound of one cab. Even a single cab gets really loud. It could easily keep up with my band. With 2 cabs or a 210 the sound is more balanced and full sounding. I kinda wish I had built 2 jack 10s instead of a Jack 210 for my bass rig.
I wonder where I've heard of building singles???
I know money often seals the deal, but seriously, quality is an investment, not an expense... Grant Bunter
Accept the fact that airtight and well-braced are more important than pretty on the inside. Bill Fitzmaurice
Accept the fact that airtight and well-braced are more important than pretty on the inside. Bill Fitzmaurice
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- Location: Anchorage, AK
Re: Jack 210 bass cab
Old thread -- but maybe this is still relevant for someone. I think the popping is due to active electronics having an offset from ground, like in a stompbox where there's a single +9VDC battery. Most audio circuits need a dual-voltage supply, so that +9 is shifted to be -4.5 / Virtual Gnd / +4.5. But now, you have a +4.5V DC offset in your audio signal, so you have to add a coupling capacitor inline to filter the DC and pass the AC. Now, when you connect to this circuit (patch cable or whatnot), you're getting a 4.5V pop while the cap charges and stops the DC.
You can get this in any active circuit, so it's not impossible to have popping from an amp, but much less likely. It's quite common to have a physical disconnect relay in the amp before the speaker terminals to avoid turn-on and tun-off thumps caused by the collapse of the power supply.
On that note, if you want a tweeter disconnect without sending your amplified audio through a cable on the floor, a relay would be one way to do it. Of course, you'd need to power it, but a DIY latching switch stompbox with a 9V battery could accomplish that pretty easily. Have the relay in the cab, with the crossover high output to the relay common terminal. Wire the normally-closed output to the tweeter array for full-range use without having to have the stompbox connected. Wire a 1/4" foot switch jack to the coil of the relay, so when there's 9VDC from the foot switch, the coil opens the circuit between the crossover and the tweeter array.
You can get this in any active circuit, so it's not impossible to have popping from an amp, but much less likely. It's quite common to have a physical disconnect relay in the amp before the speaker terminals to avoid turn-on and tun-off thumps caused by the collapse of the power supply.
On that note, if you want a tweeter disconnect without sending your amplified audio through a cable on the floor, a relay would be one way to do it. Of course, you'd need to power it, but a DIY latching switch stompbox with a 9V battery could accomplish that pretty easily. Have the relay in the cab, with the crossover high output to the relay common terminal. Wire the normally-closed output to the tweeter array for full-range use without having to have the stompbox connected. Wire a 1/4" foot switch jack to the coil of the relay, so when there's 9VDC from the foot switch, the coil opens the circuit between the crossover and the tweeter array.
- LiefStevens
- Posts: 207
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