I liked it! Very simple but yet very reliable it seems. It doesn't look too good though when you use the bottom cab as a single with funny metal brackets and holes in the sides. What I would have done to prevent this is to build a platform with mounts, very much like the ones on the sides of your Jacks, and then I would have put the bottom cab on that platform. I would still have top hats(the ones with adjustable angle provided by Leland) in all cabs to be able to use them all as singles without having to use a platform.biodad wrote:Whacha think of the rigging?
Jack 110 and the rigging to suspend them
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Re: Jack 110 and the rigging to suspend them
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Re: Jack 110 and the rigging to suspend them
Hats off to you Biodadbiodad wrote:greetings
Whacha think of the rigging?
You did something different to suit your own needs and made it work.
The jacks look cool suspended between two poles.
I'm not keen on putting a top hat into a J110 but I can't say that i'd want to have T brackets permanently mounted to the sides either but its made me think about other ways to hoist a cab up high.
At the moment I'm favouring a platform bolted on to an external top hat stand
(like this http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id= ... e=category ) with ratchet straps passed up through the handles and over the top.
Anyone done this?
2 X J110 - DLII2510
Re: Jack 110 and the rigging to suspend them
Greetings
There are other ways to attach smaller DR's or Jacks to a pair of tri pods. Two boxes per side is all I'd wanna go.
As for those odd looking "T" irons, I agree they look dorky but when erected ( never mind ) they look fine. I use the "T" irons as handles as I line up the "U" bolts and slip them onto the top of the poles. Easy.
One could have a pair of nuts of some sort ( don't go there ) per side secured on the inside of the box 8 or 10 inches apart and use bolts through the poles. This was my first pick but securing the nuts on the inside didnt click for me. Securing nuts never clicks for me. . .
One could have a hole a tad larger than the tri pod pole, on the bottom of box, centered at each side of the Jack near middle for balance. The top of tri pod pole goes in there. Inside the Jack, on the top perfectly lined up and centered for balance needs to be a ( guessing) 2 or 3 inch deep frame ( wood ?) to secure the top of pole. Probably not airtight so not good for DR's.
Finally and worse yet, one could have two horizontal metal straps or "irons" ( 1/8 thick), 8 to 10 inches apart, bolted on the sides of the box. Have them fashioned with a 1 inch long centered outdent ( opposite of indent) to receive 2 similar verticle pieces or irons allready attached near the top of the poles. Outdent area would stick out a tad more than 1/8 inch. Box is secured in 2 places per side on poles. Might be somewhat difficult to pull apart at end of job.
I like the two tri pods as they seem very stable and cost and weigh little. I just set this thing up at tonights job and it was no bother at all. I also like how easy it is to spin one tri pod of the far away stack towards me to reference it while EQ'ing it. Bang the piano, croon and set it. On some jobs, I can keep one Jack facing us off the mains for close to exact reference (monitor), but I have to turn that one down sometimes. Versitile boxes they are.
There are other ways to attach smaller DR's or Jacks to a pair of tri pods. Two boxes per side is all I'd wanna go.
As for those odd looking "T" irons, I agree they look dorky but when erected ( never mind ) they look fine. I use the "T" irons as handles as I line up the "U" bolts and slip them onto the top of the poles. Easy.
One could have a pair of nuts of some sort ( don't go there ) per side secured on the inside of the box 8 or 10 inches apart and use bolts through the poles. This was my first pick but securing the nuts on the inside didnt click for me. Securing nuts never clicks for me. . .
One could have a hole a tad larger than the tri pod pole, on the bottom of box, centered at each side of the Jack near middle for balance. The top of tri pod pole goes in there. Inside the Jack, on the top perfectly lined up and centered for balance needs to be a ( guessing) 2 or 3 inch deep frame ( wood ?) to secure the top of pole. Probably not airtight so not good for DR's.
Finally and worse yet, one could have two horizontal metal straps or "irons" ( 1/8 thick), 8 to 10 inches apart, bolted on the sides of the box. Have them fashioned with a 1 inch long centered outdent ( opposite of indent) to receive 2 similar verticle pieces or irons allready attached near the top of the poles. Outdent area would stick out a tad more than 1/8 inch. Box is secured in 2 places per side on poles. Might be somewhat difficult to pull apart at end of job.
I like the two tri pods as they seem very stable and cost and weigh little. I just set this thing up at tonights job and it was no bother at all. I also like how easy it is to spin one tri pod of the far away stack towards me to reference it while EQ'ing it. Bang the piano, croon and set it. On some jobs, I can keep one Jack facing us off the mains for close to exact reference (monitor), but I have to turn that one down sometimes. Versitile boxes they are.
Re: Jack 110 and the rigging to suspend them
I have two DIY options that do work very similar, which is a 1/2" SPF plywood plate that is about 2" (~4.5cm) larger in length and width. On the bottom is a 5x6" plate screwed to the centre of it, and to this a pipe flange and 1-1/4?" x 3" nipple. I have had one on each of them per side or, both Omni 10.5s on top of one, and of course they were ratchet-strapped. I don't have handles on the cabs to thread through but it doesn't really make any difference for security.IanChad wrote:At the moment I'm favouring a platform bolted on to an external top hat stand
(like this http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id= ... e=category ) with ratchet straps passed up through the handles and over the top.Anyone done this?
TomS
Re: Jack 110 and the rigging to suspend them
Thanks for that - its good to know that its a proven technique.tammojsmit wrote:I have two DIY options that do work very similar, which is a 1/2" SPF plywood plate that is about 2" (~4.5cm) larger in length and width. On the bottom is a 5x6" plate screwed to the centre of it, and to this a pipe flange and 1-1/4?" x 3" nipple. I have had one on each of them per side or, both Omni 10.5s on top of one, and of course they were ratchet-strapped. I don't have handles on the cabs to thread through but it doesn't really make any difference for security.IanChad wrote:At the moment I'm favouring a platform bolted on to an external top hat stand
(like this http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id= ... e=category ) with ratchet straps passed up through the handles and over the top.Anyone done this?
2 X J110 - DLII2510
Re: Jack 110 and the rigging to suspend them
I bought two of these jacks earlier this summer, drove them back to MN, and I'm finally getting around to fixing them up for my band's use. Now I know what all the filled holes are for on the sides!
Anyways, I'm going to hopefully put in the melded arrays this weekend. I bought top hats from leland, but now I'm rethinking what I want to do. I was also thinking about putting grille over the two sides but not over the array, sort of like someone had done with their DR250. I also like the look of two of these on a side, makes the whole setup look more professional. I know most of us on the forum don't listen with our eyes, but a lot of people do.
Anyways, I'm going to hopefully put in the melded arrays this weekend. I bought top hats from leland, but now I'm rethinking what I want to do. I was also thinking about putting grille over the two sides but not over the array, sort of like someone had done with their DR250. I also like the look of two of these on a side, makes the whole setup look more professional. I know most of us on the forum don't listen with our eyes, but a lot of people do.
- Harley
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- Joined: Mon May 08, 2006 2:45 pm
- Location: Christchurch, New Zealand - Authorised BFM Cab Builder
Re: Jack 110 and the rigging to suspend them
That's actually quite innovative to have two stands on the sides in terms of better stability.
I have raised two J110s using a top hat on the bottom cab and slung trailer tie downs to hold the top cab to the bottom. This was on one stand and was not the most stable of devices.
The flip side with your idea is having those lugs stick out on the side - that's not pack friendly, however it's quite novel how the top fixture locates into the top of the stand.
I have raised two J110s using a top hat on the bottom cab and slung trailer tie downs to hold the top cab to the bottom. This was on one stand and was not the most stable of devices.
The flip side with your idea is having those lugs stick out on the side - that's not pack friendly, however it's quite novel how the top fixture locates into the top of the stand.